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Old 06-24-2019, 09:26 PM   #51 (permalink)
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That brings up something else to check into when replacing the springs/ lowering the mounts. Most SAS kits move the front axle forward an inch or two. Even with cutting the fenders to clear huge tires you can run into clearance issues with the cab near the door opening. The bumper however is easy to move/ replace so the farther forward the axle is the easier the tire clearance issue is on the front to address. Depending on the steering setup though you can go too far and run into drag link/ pitman arm clearance problems.
Ok, thanks for the information! That's something I will look into and keep in mind.
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Old 06-24-2019, 09:32 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Possible another dumb question lol ......
Is there some way to make a sway bar or do they sell them?
Seems as if I have read about custom ones before , but don't know what they look like on trucks or if they can be purchased?
I'd like to be able to keep the truck driving as straight as possible considering all the things done to it.
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Old 06-25-2019, 07:51 AM   #53 (permalink)
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88+ model trucks with IFS came from the factory with a sway bar. It should be easy to find in a junkyard but make sure you get all the mounts and bushings as well. Depending on how the SAS was done on your truck you probably will have to fab up some upper mount locations, will definitely have to make some lower mount points and some links to connect them.
Maybe someone else knows if a kit, but I am unaware of one. Regardless there is going to be some level of fabrication required.
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Old 06-25-2019, 08:53 PM   #54 (permalink)
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88+ model trucks with IFS came from the factory with a sway bar. It should be easy to find in a junkyard but make sure you get all the mounts and bushings as well. Depending on how the SAS was done on your truck you probably will have to fab up some upper mount locations, will definitely have to make some lower mount points and some links to connect them.
Maybe someone else knows if a kit, but I am unaware of one. Regardless there is going to be some level of fabrication required.
Ok, that should be too bad and until a few days ago our junkyard was right besides our property.
My husband knows the guys that work there so he pays next to nothing usually for parts......,
Next on our list is front axle assembly........we are going to put a 1 ton in first. I have no idea why they used a 3/4 front axle. Not quite sure what truck to look for to buy one from?
I really appreciate all the guidance you are giving us.
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Old 06-26-2019, 08:44 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Ok, that should be too bad and until a few days ago our junkyard was right besides our property.
My husband knows the guys that work there so he pays next to nothing usually for parts......,
Next on our list is front axle assembly........we are going to put a 1 ton in first. I have no idea why they used a 3/4 front axle. Not quite sure what truck to look for to buy one from?
I really appreciate all the guidance you are giving us.
80’s model Chevy 1 ton Dana 60 front axle, Chevy CUCV military truck Dana 60 fronts is what you find for sale. That’s the ones to get as they are all geared 4.56 and maybe Detroit lockers in them. Don’t buy a dually axle because single rear wheel hubs can get expensive.
Although there are folks that can take dually front hubs and machine them down to singe rear wheel hubs. But the new wheel mounting flange is actually the brake rotor mount and not really designed for that. But it does work in the off-road world. I would not run it on the street though for fear of killing the bus load of nuns and chilrenz.
Google “DRW Dana 60 hub machining” or “difference between Srw and Drw Dana 60 hub” to see what I’m talking about.
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Old 06-26-2019, 08:56 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Ok, that should be too bad and until a few days ago our junkyard was right besides our property.
My husband knows the guys that work there so he pays next to nothing usually for parts......,
Next on our list is front axle assembly........we are going to put a 1 ton in first. I have no idea why they used a 3/4 front axle. Not quite sure what truck to look for to buy one from?
I really appreciate all the guidance you are giving us.
What side is your front driveshaft on? Makes a big difference.
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Old 06-26-2019, 10:21 AM   #57 (permalink)
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By the pics the axle in there now is a passenger side drop, but in typical "big gay truck" fashion, there is no front driveshaft, so it's hard to say what else in under there. It honestly would not surprise me if there were no transfer case at all or a driver side drop one in it, lol.
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Old 06-26-2019, 10:37 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Yeah the ifs trucks where driver drop tcases. So that might be the case
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Old 06-26-2019, 12:44 PM   #59 (permalink)
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If it still has the factory tranny and case it will be driver's side drop and need a Ford Dana 60. If the transfer case is from an older model Chevy then you need an axle from one as well. This of course is assuming that you want four wheel drive.
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Old 06-26-2019, 08:53 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I do know it is a manual 5 speed, the transfer case has definitely been changed and the 4 wheel drive shifter is now to the right of the 5 speed shifter and completely different than the factory shifter for 4wd.

There is no front drive shaft because the truck wasn't finished when we bought it.
But the axle drop is on the right ( passenger side)

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Old 06-26-2019, 08:59 PM   #61 (permalink)
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You guys are really giving some good info and I'm learning !
The truck with 44's and 5:13 gears seems to have a lot of power. I have no idea how much power the Chevy 400 engine makes, but it seems pretty healthy. I'm planning at this point sticking with the same gear ratio with the 49's.
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Old 06-26-2019, 09:05 PM   #62 (permalink)
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If it still has the factory tranny and case it will be driver's side drop and need a Ford Dana 60. If the transfer case is from an older model Chevy then you need an axle from one as well. This of course is assuming that you want four wheel drive.
So I should figure out what transfer case is in it then?
When you say " If the transfer case is from an older model Chevy then you need an axle from one as well."
Is that for the reasoning of what side the axle drop is on?

Also I do know if I were to put a front drive shaft on , everything would line up and is in the correct location.
But, yes 4 wheel drive is a must!!

Never understood why some people have these big lifted trucks and either make them out of 2 wheel drive trucks and leave them that way or never finish the 4wd And ultimately have a 2wd truck.
Doesn't make sense.

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Old 06-27-2019, 05:51 AM   #63 (permalink)
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So I should figure out what transfer case is in it then?
When you say " If the transfer case is from an older model Chevy then you need an axle from one as well."
Is that for the reasoning of what side the axle drop is on?

Also I do know if I were to put a front drive shaft on , everything would line up and is in the correct location.
But, yes 4 wheel drive is a must!!

Never understood why some people have these big lifted trucks and either make them out of 2 wheel drive trucks and leave them that way or never finish the 4wd And ultimately have a 2wd truck.
Doesn't make sense.
People convert 2wd trucks because they are cheaper to buy and usually not as beat as a 4wd truck.
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Old 06-27-2019, 06:59 AM   #64 (permalink)
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In addition, the short distance from the transfer case to the front axle and the extreme lift on trucks like this make it near impossible to have a front driveshaft as the angles are more than a U-joint can take. This is why most of the better built trucks like this will use a transfer case that drops straight down like an SCS or similar, but you are looking at a couple grand for the transfer case alone.
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Old 06-27-2019, 09:04 AM   #65 (permalink)
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So I should figure out what transfer case is in it then?
When you say " If the transfer case is from an older model Chevy then you need an axle from one as well."
Is that for the reasoning of what side the axle drop is on?
Short answer "yes."

A truck doesn't know what brand it is nor does it care what the axle/transmission/transfer case came from, unless it is a new computer control everything truck. Stuff like antilock brakes, transmission shift points, and electronic speed sensors complicate drivetrain swaps. But your truck is old enough it shouldn't have any of those things.

When Chevy switched to IFS in 88 they changed from a passenger side differential and transfer case to a driver's side. Dodge did the same thing in 94 when they changed body style and went to coil springs. Ford has always been driver's side drop regardless of solid axle, TTB, IFS, coil or leaf spring. So unless you want to custom order an axle for your truck, you should be looking for pre 88 GM and pre 94 Dodge one tons. You may still run into spring perch differences and definitely lots of brake, hub and track width options, but anything knuckle out is easy to swap. My experience is that junkyards want a premium for front Dana 60's. Sometimes I can find a complete truck for sale locally for what people think just the axle is worth. I have also had luck responding to "free to someone willing to haul it off" ads. Also when I buy a car/truck or even tractor from an individual I look around for other parts I might get them to include in the deal. If you are having trouble finding a Dana 60 you just haven't been to enough farms with old trucks sitting around.

Last edited by 4seasons; 06-27-2019 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 06-27-2019, 03:21 PM   #66 (permalink)
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This is just an idea but you could possibly fix a couple issues in 1 go here. Instead of throwing an older chevy 1 ton Dana 60 under it and dealing with the passenger drop transfer case, lowering suspension hangers and buying new leaf spring to replace broken one just to end up with a similar setup to current one why not buy a pair of 05+ ford F250-F350 axles? This would get you a easy setup for link or radius arm front suspension that you can go sky high with and still have decent ride, it also gets you a strong front axle that was built and has parts made within the past 30 years along with better steering\brakes. I know you havent gotten your wheels yet so the 8x170 bolt pattern wont be big deal since you can just have wheels made in that pattern. If you didnt already buy the 16.5 tires I would have suggested F550 Super60 front and dana 110 or 135 rear which are insanely strong but require a 18+ wheel easily unless you have very little backspacing to place where wheel is out past the brakes.
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Old 06-28-2019, 10:09 PM   #67 (permalink)
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This is just an idea but you could possibly fix a couple issues in 1 go here. Instead of throwing an older chevy 1 ton Dana 60 under it and dealing with the passenger drop transfer case, lowering suspension hangers and buying new leaf spring to replace broken one just to end up with a similar setup to current one why not buy a pair of 05+ ford F250-F350 axles? This would get you a easy setup for link or radius arm front suspension that you can go sky high with and still have decent ride, it also gets you a strong front axle that was built and has parts made within the past 30 years along with better steering\brakes. I know you havent gotten your wheels yet so the 8x170 bolt pattern wont be big deal since you can just have wheels made in that pattern. If you didnt already buy the 16.5 tires I would have suggested F550 Super60 front and dana 110 or 135 rear which are insanely strong but require a 18+ wheel easily unless you have very little backspacing to place where wheel is out past the brakes.
I am going to send you a pm. Not sure I understand everything.
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Old 06-28-2019, 11:10 PM   #68 (permalink)
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People convert 2wd trucks because they are cheaper to buy and usually not as beat as a 4wd truck.
Never thought of that.....that's makes sense though.

Last edited by Jenfred10; 06-28-2019 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 06-28-2019, 11:14 PM   #69 (permalink)
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In addition, the short distance from the transfer case to the front axle and the extreme lift on trucks like this make it near impossible to have a front driveshaft as the angles are more than a U-joint can take. This is why most of the better built trucks like this will use a transfer case that drops straight down like an SCS or similar, but you are looking at a couple grand for the transfer case alone.
Yeah, I was really caught off guard when I went on a few of the websites that sell these transfer cases......not what I was expecting at all!
I didn't think they'd be cheap butt, holy!............
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Old 06-28-2019, 11:21 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Short answer "yes."

A truck doesn't know what brand it is nor does it care what the axle/transmission/transfer case came from, unless it is a new computer control everything truck. Stuff like antilock brakes, transmission shift points, and electronic speed sensors complicate drivetrain swaps. But your truck is old enough it shouldn't have any of those things.

When Chevy switched to IFS in 88 they changed from a passenger side differential and transfer case to a driver's side. Dodge did the same thing in 94 when they changed body style and went to coil springs. Ford has always been driver's side drop regardless of solid axle, TTB, IFS, coil or leaf spring. So unless you want to custom order an axle for your truck, you should be looking for pre 88 GM and pre 94 Dodge one tons. You may still run into spring perch differences and definitely lots of brake, hub and track width options, but anything knuckle out is easy to swap. My experience is that junkyards want a premium for front Dana 60's. Sometimes I can find a complete truck for sale locally for what people think just the axle is worth. I have also had luck responding to "free to someone willing to haul it off" ads. Also when I buy a car/truck or even tractor from an individual I look around for other parts I might get them to include in the deal. If you are having trouble finding a Dana 60 you just haven't been to enough farms with old trucks sitting around.
Lots of good info here that I was unaware of.
Fortunately our local junkyard if we find any of those axles they all will be the same price.....very possible even cheaper being my husband is friends with them and they always hook him up haha.
Just looked it up...... truck axles with core charge are $130.

I was also kind of thinking the same thing. I have been seeing complete trucks with these axles quite cheap!
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Old 06-29-2019, 08:14 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Yeah, I was really caught off guard when I went on a few of the websites that sell these transfer cases......not what I was expecting at all!
I didn't think they'd be cheap butt, holy!............
It gets worse, some of the transfer cases for rock crawling are in the $5k range. If you can't do the work yourself, even a rebuilt NP205 can be well over $1k. Much more with upgrades.

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Lots of good info here that I was unaware of.
Fortunately our local junkyard if we find any of those axles they all will be the same price.....very possible even cheaper being my husband is friends with them and they always hook him up haha.
Just looked it up...... truck axles with core charge are $130.

I was also kind of thinking the same thing. I have been seeing complete trucks with these axles quite cheap!
I'd verify what they mean by "axles". They could mean just axle shafts or they probably have piles of old rear axles laying around that aren't worth much. Front axles, especially an older kingpin D60 are usually at least in the $600-$1000 range in used core condition. Due to that most places that would have sold them cheap would have been picked clean long ago. Around here I usually buy a complete truck to get a front D60 as it's usually more economical that way since I can get the truck for not much more than what the D60 goes for and part out or scrap the rest.
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Old 06-30-2019, 07:15 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Get a divorced 205 for a cheaper option of making this work. Factory case will work like a doubler. Driveline problem solved.
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