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Old 11-25-2019, 11:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Dana 44 axle shafts

Anyone have any luck chrome Moly axle shafts? With 35" boggers and a front locker, I break stock shafts like twigs.
I'm seeing full chrome moly kits anywhere from $300.00 (Tom's bronco parts) to $500.00 (Yukon).
I was going to upgrade to a Dana 60 front axle and I actually had one in my possession, but I sold it thinking I was going to give up on off roading, but I've had a change of heart recently. I'm hoping I can throw some chrome moly shafts in there and call it good.
Heck, they offer a lifetime warranty on these shafts, which is crazy to me.
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Old 11-25-2019, 11:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Upgrade the lockouts, u-joints and stubs at the same time.
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Old 11-25-2019, 12:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Upgrade the lockouts, u-joints and stubs at the same time.
It looks to me like the U-joints and stub shafts are part of the kit.
I currently have warn lockout hubs on it and I've never broken one, but I've broken 20 passenger side shafts and 10+ drivers side shafts. Some of them have snapped at the U-joint yoke, but most snap halfway down the inner shafts.
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Old 11-25-2019, 02:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm running Nitro USA shafts and their Excalibur Joints. Chevy S10, 37s, TBI 350, Auto, Locker.

You'll probably start breaking hubs, but drive slugs are cheap at a junkyard.

Assuming this is your 78 Bronco, it's definitely a band aid, and depending how you wheel, you'll most likely want to go 60 eventually.
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Old 11-25-2019, 04:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Same D44/selectable locker/drive slugs with 35 boggers.

Yukon chromolies with super joints heavely tested and no breakage yet.
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Old 11-25-2019, 06:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm running Nitro USA shafts and their Excalibur Joints. Chevy S10, 37s, TBI 350, Auto, Locker.

You'll probably start breaking hubs, but drive slugs are cheap at a junkyard.

Assuming this is your 78 Bronco, it's definitely a band aid, and depending how you wheel, you'll most likely want to go 60 eventually.
Yeah, it's my 78 bronco. Those boggers really like to grab, they put a lot of stress on the shafts, hubs and front driveshaft for sure. I might have to run a less aggressive tire up front, but I really like how those boggers grip.

Thanks for the tips.
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Old 11-25-2019, 06:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Same D44/selectable locker/drive slugs with 35 boggers.

Yukon chromolies with super joints heavely tested and no breakage yet.
I had my sights set on the Yukon shafts, they seem to be a solid product. It looks like their are some cheaper alternatives out there, but I trust Yukon a bit more. That lifetime warranty doesn't hurt either.
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Old 11-26-2019, 08:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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How are they breaking and Are you a "hammer down all the time" driver? I've been running a HP 44 with stock axles from a Bronco under my rig for almost 20 years now and the only thing I've ever broke on it was a hub. My rig is around 4000 lb, low geared with a Chevy 350 running 38" Swampers and a Detroit locker and I wheel the piss out of it.

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Old 11-27-2019, 01:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I’m wondering if your housing is bent?
Or do you break shafts with your foot to the floor?
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Old 11-27-2019, 11:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Its a "Limited Lifetime" warranty not a "Lifetime" warranty. Translation: You get one freebie after which they reserve the right to refuse. Assuming there is not something else wrong with the axle (i.e. bent housing) then by the sound of it you WILL break alloy 44 shafts.
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Old 11-27-2019, 11:24 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Old 11-27-2019, 11:48 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I ran Yukon chromos with super joints and 30spl outers and slugs with a full spool in my 78-79 D44 for a few years. Only issue I had was galling the caps, (lack of maintenance on my part, dumbass young kid) I eventually went RCVs, pricey but man they were nice for full throttle beat downs.
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Old 11-27-2019, 03:14 PM   #13 (permalink)
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How are they breaking and Are you a "hammer down all the time" driver? I've been running a HP 44 with stock axles from a Bronco under my rig for almost 20 years now and the only thing I've ever broke on it was a hub. My rig is around 4000 lb, low geared with a Chevy 350 running 38" Swampers and a Detroit locker and I wheel the piss out of it.
When you're in the mud, you need momentum. I'm not doing anything that everyone else isn't doing. Heck, that old 351M wasn't very powerful at all, but with 35" boggers and a locker, it was enough I guess.
I just think the TSL boggers grip too well on certain surfaces where the tires you have aren't as aggressive.
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Old 11-27-2019, 03:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
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This is the first time Iíve seen the phrase too much grip from a bogger on a rockcrawling forum.
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Old 11-27-2019, 08:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So your saying you are a hammer down kind of guy. How you drive will go a long way on how often you break shit.
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Old 11-28-2019, 02:13 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Wow, never mind guys. Thanks
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Old 11-28-2019, 02:15 PM   #17 (permalink)
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This is the first time Iíve seen the phrase too much grip from a bogger on a rockcrawling forum.
This is a rock crawling forum??? I did not know that. Seemed like a 4x4/general discussion forum to me.
Learn something new every day.
They should title this forum differently.
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Old 11-28-2019, 02:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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So your saying you are a hammer down kind of guy. How you drive will go a long way on how often you break shit.
I take it you have never been in the mud before?
I've never been rock crawling and I think it's common sense to NOT hammer down when you're on the rocks and most of the time on a regular trail. but when you're trying to keep your momentum in a mud pit, that vertical pedal is what you use.
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Old 11-28-2019, 02:35 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I take it you have never been in the mud before?
I've never been rock crawling and I think it's common sense to NOT hammer down when you're on the rocks and most of the time on a regular trail. but when you're trying to keep your momentum in a mud pit, that vertical pedal is what you use.
Which loosely translates to itís gonna be hard to keep a D44 alive.
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Old 11-28-2019, 04:04 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Same D44/selectable locker/drive slugs with 35 boggers.



Yukon chromolies with super joints heavely tested and no breakage yet.
Profile says CJ7, that correct?

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Old 11-28-2019, 04:06 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Which loosely translates to itís gonna be hard to keep a D44 alive.
Mostly agree. Although he won't be loading a single shaft or occassionally getting a front tire bound up like us crawlers do.

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Old 11-29-2019, 06:28 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I take it you have never been in the mud before?
I've never been rock crawling and I think it's common sense to NOT hammer down when you're on the rocks and most of the time on a regular trail. but when you're trying to keep your momentum in a mud pit, that vertical pedal is what you use.
Back to the original postÖ.No, I've never tried Chro-mo shafts for a Dana 44, but I know what it's like to snap 44 shafts, like twigsÖ.. About 25-30 yrs ago, I used to own a 78 F150 with 33s and a 400 under the hood. Broke a few shafts and aftermarket shafts and joints didn't really exist back then. . I noticed that the shafts or joints usually broke when the truck transitioned from mud to a harder surface, under full throttle, but it also wasn't the only parts I broke.

I don't know if chrome moly shafts will fully solve your problem. Besides shafts, I also burned up a couple of pinion gears. If you're determined to run a 44, I'd recommend going back to an open diff, swapping the front tires to TSLs and change your driving style to accommodate the axle. That means try to avoid heavy throttle when transitioning from mud to a harder or higher traction surface.

If you can find another 60, you'd be better off in the long run.

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Old 11-29-2019, 09:16 AM   #23 (permalink)
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If you have blown 20+ shock shafts, your housing is toasted.
While aftermarket shafts will do better, you still need a bigger front end.
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Old 11-29-2019, 12:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
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If you have blown 20+ shock shafts, your housing is toasted.
While aftermarket shafts will do better, you still need a bigger front end.
Not disagreeing.

Wouldn't a toasted housing make replacing the broken shafts noticeably difficult with the replacements? Maybe that depends on where the bend is. Curious is all, I haven't bent a housing so no experience.
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Old 11-29-2019, 12:08 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Not disagreeing.

Wouldn't a toasted housing make replacing the broken shafts noticeably difficult with the replacements? Maybe that depends on where the bend is. Curious is all, I haven't bent a housing so no experience.
Depends how sloppy the splines are sometimes. I had a set of Moser axles go into a Dana 35 ones that superiors would not go into. You could take the side gear and rattle it on the Moser axle.

It also depends on how bad the housing is.

Chromos arenít going to save this guys ass if he can snap stockers at will imo.
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