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Old 12-05-2019, 12:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Ultra4Jones 4800 #518

going to launch a new thread for this car as I could use some input and extra eyes as I prep for KOH. these first few photos are from my Reno shit show.
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Old 12-05-2019, 12:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 12-05-2019, 12:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Pinion carrier was improperly installed with short bolts, pulled threads out, whipped around and broke TH350 case
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Old 12-05-2019, 12:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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This is one of 2 TH350 transmissions i picked up to get rebuilt for the car. As of today, the broken trans and the 2 cores are at All American Transmission in Tehachapi for Mike to work his magic. The goal is 2 identical manual valve body transmissions so that i can have a spare in the trailer at all times.
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Old 12-05-2019, 01:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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While this is happening I have to pull both axles and go through them. The internal struggle I'm currently having is how much I want to change directions. Currently I have 2 obliterated 3rds for the rear 9" low pinion, and a beat to shit Dynatrac pro rock 60 up front that also needs gears. car is currently running 5.38/5.43 gears and feels like it suits the tire size/HP well.

I would like to replace the front housing with a HP 9", but not sure I have the time for that to get built or the funds to swing it. I have 2 sets of shafts for the 60, high steer BJ knuckles, and interchangeable spindles, hubs, brakes on all four corners of the car. It would be nice to get just a C to C housing made that I could recycle all my parts onto but I'm not sure if that's feasible or practical.

Out back, seems like either 2 new 3rds setup and delivered from Yukon (team member) or just R&Ps, kits and have mine rebuilt is a no-brainer. High pinion sounds sexy, but sounds $$$. Anyone have experience with "Daytona" pinion stuff? Waste of money for my little car?
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Old 12-05-2019, 04:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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From what I can tell, if you are going to spend the money on high pinion, you want the gearworks stuff not the true high 9. It is very spendy.

Then again I donít know you and I donít know your budget and you are a racecar driver so spendy might be up your alley.
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Old 12-05-2019, 11:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the idea, I was pretty much trying to cut off anyone suggesting HP 9” (whether it be Gearworks or Hi9). I don’t have the money to race at all, but I’m making memories anyway. Really would like some tech or ideas for front axle builds......
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Old 12-07-2019, 07:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Since you’re on a (sorta) budget, I’d suggest swapping rear for a 14 bolt. Buy used or budget parts for a front axle build. You could even use the rear 9” third for a new front 9 or build a new front from another axle of your choice. Also could potentially refresh the front axle altogether. If the front just needs gears, I’d say it’s a good idea to keep it in place and run it while replacing the rear axle with a 14b.

FWIW, the new Super D60 parts are plentiful and beefy. You could easily make junkyard stout axles for cheap. At least you’d be racing and you can save your pennies for a set of 9s or stepping up to another car/class altogether.

Just my two cents and suggestion. Good luck!
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Old 12-07-2019, 07:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I would consider building a 14 bolt front if I were racing with a tight budget. Cheap and pretty strong.

-JY axle
-Retube to your desired spec
-Ballistic shave kit (or similar)
-Either 05+ SD, Crane, Reid, Spidertrax ect knuckles or ?
-300M RCV's
-Cryo everything including the housing
-Profit?

I'd also build a 14 bolt rear, like GTX Racer suggested above, and use SD unit bearing cups to keep F&R bearings/brakes all the same (less spare parts needed)

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Old 12-08-2019, 01:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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All interesting ideas. The current issue with the pro rock 60 front is the housing is leaking from somewhere behind the truss (looks like it got ripped off once and crudely put back). Might be where the short side tube goes into the housing. Bottom is beat up pretty good too and worn thin. I have a feeling what I will end up doing to save money is stripping the housing down, cutting all the cobbled together BS off, trying to fix/weld up the leak, plate the bottom (again) and throw it back under the car for a year or so. I appreciate the input on build ideas, eventually I will have to produce a real solution. In regards to a 14 bolt front, I really don’t want a diff cover on the front of the car, i’d rather have an armored housing to crash into rocks. Cover bolts/seal get obliterated in Ultra4.
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Old 12-08-2019, 03:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I really donít want a diff cover on the front of the car, iíd rather have an armored housing to crash into rocks. Cover bolts/seal get obliterated in Ultra4.

Understandable, but unless your going to spring for a GW HP10 for the front, what else will last that doesn't have a cover on the front of it?

How many diff covers can you buy for the price difference between a JY14 bolt build and a fully built GW HP10 with a custom housing?

I'd choose putting a new cover on it each race (if needed) over blowing a non existent racing budget on one item that you may or may not even need.

Are you running up front at the races or just out there? If it's the latter, I'd spend as little money as possible to get a reliable axle under the car. A million dollar front axle isn't going to win you races.
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Yup, even if you run a 10" GW axle you'll still be beating the fawk out of it. 2k vs 20k axle, it's still gonna bend/break/rash. Make a huge plow of a cover/armor for the 14b and run it. 14b with Super 60 outers up front with matching UB cub rear 14b. Spool rear and detroit front. Extremely tough, cheap, easy to repair and find parts.

I get the dream you have, but there isn't some magic tech that's going to give you a GW type setup for cheap (except for Eaton stuff but nobody runs that )
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Old 12-09-2019, 06:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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how crazy of an idea is it to pick up a beefy 9" housing and then cut/weld your current knuckle setup to that??
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Old 12-10-2019, 01:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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how crazy of an idea is it to pick up a beefy 9" housing and then cut/weld your current knuckle setup to that??
I guess in my naive-ness that is more what I pictured, a ruffstuff 9" housing with a 10" gearset in it with my Dana 60 outers and shafts. Maybe that is not a thing? or maybe it is just a stupid idea.

side note, new Corbeau FX1 Pros are enroute. Transmission(s) should be done in a week or so (raising the stall too, car is impossible to hold still in low 1st.) Got a preliminary order in with Ruffstuff for some misc tube, heims, tabs, etc. Going to be a busy several weeks!
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Old 12-11-2019, 09:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I guess in my naive-ness that is more what I pictured, a ruffstuff 9" housing with a 10" gearset in it with my Dana 60 outers and shafts. Maybe that is not a thing? or maybe it is just a stupid idea.

side note, new Corbeau FX1 Pros are enroute. Transmission(s) should be done in a week or so (raising the stall too, car is impossible to hold still in low 1st.) Got a preliminary order in with Ruffstuff for some misc tube, heims, tabs, etc. Going to be a busy several weeks!
also naive here

im waiting to get flamed for such a idea

if that doesnt happen then go for it
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Old 12-11-2019, 10:29 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Isnt that the "609" ?
Google that. Lots on PBB, back to 2011 at least
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...60-hybrid.html
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Old 12-11-2019, 10:35 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I guess in my naive-ness that is more what I pictured, a ruffstuff 9" housing with a 10" gearset in it with my Dana 60 outers and shafts. Maybe that is not a thing? or maybe it is just a stupid idea.
Tons of people have built 609’s. My only consideration would be that I would look at trail gear or diamond or spidertrax for the housing. The rough stuff housing is enormous.
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Old 12-16-2019, 12:48 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Tons of people have built 609ís. My only consideration would be that I would look at travel gear or diamond or spidertrax for the housing. The rough stuff housing is enormous.
Ok, thanks. Was mostly looking at Ruffstuff because I already have them as a sponsor. I'll shop around. Due to time (and money) constraints, I ordered new 9" and D60 gears today from Yukon. Going to fix what I have for KoH and keep looking at upgrades for later. My Dynatrac 60 housing is pretty mangled on the flange face/bottom lip, I'll post up some pics once I get it out of the car in the next few days.
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Old 12-22-2019, 11:00 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Gears showed up, and I will be dropping them off tomorrow at Weddle to get REM polish done. Said 1 week turnaround and $95 a gearset for the 9”. Then I’ll shuttle the parts down to @Kevin_lowrance for setup. Also of note, scored a sweet little enclosed trailer from a good friend. It will be nice to set it up with some tool/workspace instead of racing off of a flatbed.
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Old 12-24-2019, 12:23 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Buddy had this car for a while. He brought it from back east. Used to have a hi 9 rear that blew up pretty fast.

Suprised to see it with those wierd nerf bars still on it
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Old 12-28-2019, 12:36 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Nice trailer. Get the car fixed and get some seat time. Did you find the fuel issue?
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:15 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Buddy had this car for a while. He brought it from back east. Used to have a hi 9 rear that blew up pretty fast.

Suprised to see it with those wierd nerf bars still on it
Was your buddy Edwin? or the guy he bought it from? It was built and raced by Jim Lambert back east. Edwin told me it had a hi9 but was too expensive to replace, so he went lo 9 and never looked back. I hate the nerf wedges too, just so low on my list of fucks given right now.
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:16 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Nice trailer. Get the car fixed and get some seat time. Did you find the fuel issue?
I hear ya Jesse, thrashing to get everything fixed. I will be tearing down fuel system this week. Hoping I find a glaring issue and get lucky with an easy fix....
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