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Old 09-17-2004, 05:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Solid mount body - frame flex and cracks

I've seen a number of posts where someone has wound up tying their floor/body into the frame with a weld bead - no bushings or "body mounts"

I'm curious how many of you have had problems after doing something like this.

Are you building the chassis (cage, frame, floor combo) so rigid that it's not a problem? Or does the frame/cage still flex enough to induce cracks in the floor, or cracks somewhere else in the frame?

A lot of the Dez setups seem to have the cage tied in solidly, but the body still floats a bit on bushings.

Not quite like many "boatsided" rigs running tube straight from the rocker down to the frame rail.

I'm interested in hearing from anyone that might've lowered their floor down to where the floor pan is welded to the top of the frame rail, and the whole body is solidly attached to the frame and cage.
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Old 09-17-2004, 08:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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BTT,

I'm very curious about this too. I've seen people tie cages to the frame with bushings, so they will "float" with the body. But, I would rather tie it all together if I could keep it from carcking and keep a ride decent.

I imagine that over time, with a cab on frame setup, the body will crack though. Seems that the frame will just offer too much flex...some more than others of course.

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Old 09-18-2004, 07:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Jeez Tom it's not like you've never seen picture of the work I did. But the biggest help on mine was the tube running from the front of the frame through the fire wall and tied into the down tube of the cage. Really helped a lot with the heavy ass IH motor. I can put stands under the frame rails behind the spring hangers and let the front end hang with no droop, I was able to cut a good section of frame out when I did the shackle hangers. Since I did the work nothing but good to say about it, no more frame issues, no more fan rubbing because the rad is moving around, etc. Just do it and don't look back.

You can see the tube running along under the inner fender
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Old 09-18-2004, 10:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdjanda
Jeez Tom it's not like you've never seen picture of the work I did. But the biggest help on mine was the tube running from the front of the frame through the fire wall and tied into the down tube of the cage. Really helped a lot with the heavy ass IH motor. I can put stands under the frame rails behind the spring hangers and let the front end hang with no droop, I was able to cut a good section of frame out when I did the shackle hangers. Since I did the work nothing but good to say about it, no more frame issues, no more fan rubbing because the rad is moving around, etc. Just do it and don't look back.
I'd seen it, and yours was one of the rigs I was thinking about specifically. I just hadn't heard any long-term details, about whether or not the floor is cracking in places or not.

Rivets could be used to allow some shift if it became a problem.

I'm not contemplating boatsiding.. if anything, I'm leaning towards LOWERING the tub.
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Old 09-19-2004, 12:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdjanda
Isnt the shock mount to far back?
(edit) my bad ......... I see the mount on the axle

How'd you get a "Do Robbs" sticker in Texas any how?
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Old 09-19-2004, 11:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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cause he ain't from Texxxasss....

Good to see a little shot of the rig jdjanda...

how are the 60's working for you...?

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Old 09-19-2004, 02:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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My cage is solid mounted. I still have 3 factory body mounts on each side (2 front and the ones inside the frame under the back floor). The floor plates are identical above and below the floor. Cage welds to the top plates, bottom plates weld to the frame. It's that easy. I havent finished the Jeep yet so all I can do is post pics. theres a good thread in the jeep section



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Old 09-19-2004, 06:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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cause he ain't from Texxxasss....

Good to see a little shot of the rig jdjanda...

how are the 60's working for you...?

HoS
Great the tcase is the weakest link now, and hydro is in the works.
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Old 09-19-2004, 06:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tsm1mt
I'd seen it, and yours was one of the rigs I was thinking about specifically. I just hadn't heard any long-term details, about whether or not the floor is cracking in places or not.

Rivets could be used to allow some shift if it became a problem.

I'm not contemplating boatsiding.. if anything, I'm leaning towards LOWERING the tub.
Tom the body and frame are much happier as a unit with the cage. And why would you want to decrease clearance under the rockers

I have 36" under the rockers, and 25" under the frame rails. 36" is one big ass rock I don't have to worry about hanging up on.
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Old 09-19-2004, 11:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdjanda
Tom the body and frame are much happier as a unit with the cage. And why would you want to decrease clearance under the rockers
I have no intention of *crawling* over rocks with what I have in mind.


Lowering the floor would lower the COG. I'd be lowering the drivetrain and moving it back at least a foot, too.
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Old 09-20-2004, 05:29 AM   #11 (permalink)
 
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[QUOTE=chris demartini]My cage is solid mounted. I still have 3 factory body mounts on each side (2 front and the ones inside the frame under the back floor). The floor plates are identical above and below the floor. Cage welds to the top plates, bottom plates weld to the frame. It's that easy. I havent finished the Jeep yet so all I can do is post pics. theres a good thread in the jeep section[\QUOTE]


Won't using the same size plates cause a "cookie cutter" type effect with any flex,eventually tearing through the floor?
I have heard of people using 2 different sized plates to avoid this .
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