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Old 01-31-2005, 10:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Lightbulb Chevy knuckles + ford outers= ?????

So here's the story:

I have a 77 Low pinion dana 60 out of a 77 ford 3/4 that i can get for dirt cheap (well actually the whole truck for dirt cheap), and i am wanting to use the axle underneath my 81 ford F-250 that i built with my dad for competition mud bogging. Anyway before i do the SAS using this axle i will upgrade it to the 35spline inner and 30 spline outer axle instead if the 30/19 shafts it currently has (but at least it has the big dana 70 inner c's). But here's the catch, i have quite a few spare parts (hubs/stub shafts/u-joints, etc) avaible from a couple dana 50 TTB's that are in various trucks around the farm and at the neighbors.

But here's the catch, the current steering knuckles are to small to allow the u-joint to pass through. So i've been looking around and a buddy has a set of chev knuckles that i could get for cheap (steering arms are chopped off, i have to go to crossover anyway), but i don't want to have to scrounge around for chev outers when i have the ford parts readily avaible.

So my question to all of you here, is what would i have to do to be able to use the chev steering kncukle in place of the ford knuckle?

Would i have to redrill the ford spindle, or the chev knuckle, or a combo of both (I have a buddy that has a lathe and a bunch of other equipment that will do this for nothing more than a 6-pack)
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Old 02-01-2005, 07:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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are you sure it is a 60? I'm not a ford guy so I have no clue but I've never heard of a Ford low pinion front 60. My High Pinion is out of a 79 F350. You said its 19 spline, is it closed knuckle? Namely does it have big "balls" next to the knuckle? If so then chevy knuckles will be useless to you. If the knuckle is too small, will the inner C and area between it and the knuckle be big enough to house the joint? You can't put a Ford Spindle on a Chevy knuckle. It would need to be plugged and redrilled, never heard of it being done but don't see the point. Probably spend more having that done than you would to get some used spindles. Need the Chevy brakes then as well. Chevys have the single piston caliper.

And the biggest thing you may not know about all of this. The 77 axle has a narrower spring pad width. By a few inches in fact. So in the end this axle may be of no use to you. 80+ have a wider spring pad width on the axles. Someone I know put an older axle under his F150 but it is a pretty ghetto setup:
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Old 02-01-2005, 11:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes the axle is a open knuckle dana 60, Low pinion ford axle, its rare, as it was only made for like 8 months. Anyway i will be cutting and welding new pearches (i do know about the different spacing) on it (need to get the pinion angle right too).

Can a chev/dodge spindle be machined to accept the ford parts?

Here's a picture of the knuckle

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Old 02-02-2005, 04:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mustange70
Yes the axle is a open knuckle dana 60, Low pinion ford axle, its rare, as it was only made for like 8 months. Anyway i will be cutting and welding new pearches (i do know about the different spacing) on it (need to get the pinion angle right too).

Can a chev/dodge spindle be machined to accept the ford parts?

Here's a picture of the knuckle

Hate to tell you this dude, but that picture is of a dana 44 knuckle- 1977+balljoints+visible u-joints=Dana 44
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Old 02-02-2005, 08:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wyldstallyn73
Hate to tell you this dude, but that picture is of a dana 44 knuckle- 1977+balljoints+visible u-joints=Dana 44
Ding, ding, ding....
It is a dana 44 and nothing more.
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Old 02-02-2005, 11:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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gota be a 44 60s didnt have ball joints untill92
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Old 02-03-2005, 12:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I see, reason why i thought it was a 60, was because it has the large dana 60 hubs, it has 3" tubes (that picture was shot a from a ways back, but i did measure when i crawled underneath to find the gear ratio, which was 4.10), the center section looks identical to the pictures i have found of other lp ford dana 60's ( i wish i would of taken a picture of the back side of the diff). So naturally i thought it was a 60 as i thought all ford 44's were high pinion as well.

Man this axle is giving me headaches, if all else fails i will just weld weld the (or 2) dana 50 TTB's i can get till i can find a suitable dana 60.

thanks for the info, and if anyone has has any other infor reguarding what this axle actually is please let me know.
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Old 02-03-2005, 12:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Damnit now I am the only one I know of again with the dreaded early 77 lp dana 60. It does exist, no myth check the dana 60 bible, they intentionally mentioned that they are not including this axle in the bible because of its rarity. Anyone who does have one, well it can be upgraded, (stock it has 30 spline inners, 19 spline outers the same u-joints as a dana 44, smaller steering knuckles they are open knuckles too, smaller hubs and wheel bearings then a normal dana 60, it uses kingpins, and has the larger beefier Dana 70 inner C's) Anyhow I basically grabbed a 35 spline carrier from a later model 60, some 35 slpine ford inners, chevy dana 60 knuckles, spindles, hub, brake calipers and rotors and the large chevy dana 70 35 slpine outers. From here you jus bolt it all on and go, and you are left with about the beefiest dana 60 frontend you can get, 35 spline inners and outers, the beefier Chevy knuckles, large dana 70 inner c's. mmmm I can post pics of this mysterious beast in stock trim for all the nonbelievers. That axle pictured looks to my like a dana44hd, they came with the larger dana 60 hubs, and wheel bearings, this has confused many a person.

Last edited by Skedar2; 02-03-2005 at 12:33 AM.
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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even with all that work using chevy knuckles, and 35 spline stubs on a 77' ford 60, your still stuck with a shitty low pinion diff.

As for your 81' F-250, just leave what you got in there.
If your serrious about competing in mud bogs, leave the 44 under it.
1. if you think your gonna even place, your going to be running 38x11's, which you WON'T break anything with. Spice 760's will hold up all day long in a straight line.
2. use the fucked up geometry of the ttb to your advantage. toss in stiff springs, so the tires go \ / you will have alot more clearance under the diff.
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Old 02-03-2005, 09:16 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Aye the groundclearance is basically the same on a high pinion and a low pinion, the driveshaft may sit higher, and when your rearend is already a low pinion it dont make a difference, especially running lockers front and rear, and 42 " swampers with loads of hp, Ill just drag it through whatever the extra inch lower it sits. Its just good to know that it is stronger then a hp60 and strength and reliability come first in my books over an inch in ground clearance.
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Old 02-03-2005, 02:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Its just good to know that it is stronger then a hp60 and strength and reliability come first in my books over an inch in ground clearance.
High pinion has a stronger pinion aragement and unless you've changed your pinion angle 15 degrees down, it is higher up than the cover.
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Old 02-03-2005, 10:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Yeah i think that i will the TTB, but i will toss the 50 in there as i have already broke 2 hubs in it already, as i'm running 35x16x16.5 boggers (i want to be able to complete in the pro mod and mod classes). I have also been doing very well with the truck (place 2, won one) so far but the belly of the truck has drug in every pitt, and the pitts down here are really really thick, so if lifted i should be able to do even better. That idea with the stiffer springs is something i have never thought of, but because i am lifting the truck about 7" I think that i will weld the beams together to get a SA, as this will help me a lot better (i have to replace the 44 under it as it's in rough shape).
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Old 02-04-2005, 10:27 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jrod-13
even with all that work using chevy knuckles, and 35 spline stubs on a 77' ford 60, your still stuck with a shitty low pinion diff.
Hmm.... funny...my shitty low pinion 60's seem to do just fine
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Old 02-04-2005, 10:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm not too picky about the pinion type, as i will take what i can get right now.
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Old 02-04-2005, 11:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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as i'm running 35x16x16.5 boggers (i want to be able to * complete * in the pro mod and mod classes)..
* complete * is all you can hope to do with 35's.......
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Old 02-05-2005, 10:23 AM   #16 (permalink)
 
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High pinion has a stronger pinion aragement and unless you've changed your pinion angle 15 degrees down, it is higher up than the cover.
Aye pinion is stronger in hp60 but I never had a problem with breakage in that area of any dana 60 diff. Im more worried about shafts, knuckles, hubs as those tend to be what I grenade every year.
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Old 02-05-2005, 11:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
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35's are the max you can run in the mod classes here, then anything from 36 to 42 is the pro mods (limited engine mods, but i am lighter than the majority of the trucks competing too) then x classis anything larger than 42's with anything goess on the motor (except forced induction/nitrous/must run on pump gass-some exceptions are given here) then theres the open class where anything goes.

But for some reason the truck can spin (an ford reman. 400 out of an old merc car) the tires damn good, and it has real good flotation too.
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