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Old 03-02-2005, 11:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cleaning rust off of gears

So here is a picture of my somewhat recently acquired D300.

Before I assemble it, I'd like to clean the gears. They all have some surface rust on them, what is the best way to get rid of it?

Make very good friends with a wire brush?

Chemical treatment, then the wire brush?

Should I worry about too much wire brush damaging them?
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Old 03-02-2005, 11:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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In the steel industry, it is used to clean and rust-proof the product.
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Old 03-02-2005, 11:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Azirona has rust? daaaaamn!

I dont' know man, if it was me I'd probably brush em up (with those BRASS brushes, just to be safe ) and run them. Maybe drain the oil after a week or something.
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Old 03-02-2005, 11:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Very fine glass beads in a bead blaster makes a quick job of it but becareful to make sure eveything is clean before reassembly.
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Old 03-03-2005, 06:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Walnut shells also work wonders for light surface rust. they can also be used to strip paint off of chrome, with no damage, if it matters.
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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When are you trying to get it assembled? If I already had my 4:1 kit in mines, I'd make you a deal on the stock guts from my 300.
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Fill up a tub with Dextron ATF and soak them. It eats rust. Take a hand held wire brush and finish them up while they are wet. Has worked wonders on a couple sets of D18 gears.
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:33 AM   #8 (permalink)
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i hit this carrier/gearset with the sandblaster. gears looked brand new afterwards
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:52 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I trust Bob on that chemical to work, but man, it sounds hard, but I am retared.
I would send them it all out to be dipped.
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Call up a couple of radiator shops local to you, one of will prolly dip 'em for a couple of bucks and you won't need to wire wheel them.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenToy
Call up a couple of radiator shops local to you, one of will prolly dip 'em for a couple of bucks and you won't need to wire wheel them.

Now that sounds like about the easiest solution to me yet...


The sandblaster ideas would be ideal, but 1) I'm afraid of toasting my gears, and 2) I don't have a blaster.

Bob's acid solution sounds good, but if I can let someone else do it for a nominal fee, it's probably worth the time and safety.

Soooo... when the radiator shop "dips" it, what exactly are they dipping it in? Same phosphoric acid that Bob reccomended?
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I would be leary of fully imersed "dipping". I personally wouldn't want to touch the inner bearing surfaces. From the pics, the inner bearing surfaces look fine, I'd just brush or spray on some phosphoric acid on the teeth. You can get that stuff at ACE hardware and other such places.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:45 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanos
I would be leary of fully imersed "dipping". I personally wouldn't want to touch the inner bearing surfaces. From the pics, the inner bearing surfaces look fine, I'd just brush or spray on some phosphoric acid on the teeth. You can get that stuff at ACE hardware and other such places.
Good point, the bearing surfaces really hadn't occurred to me. And I'd take you up on those D300 guts, but I'm kind of hoping to get this thing together sooner rather than later. It's part of what's standing between me, and getting the junk rig moved out from in front of the house.
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:25 AM   #14 (permalink)
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That acid works better if you brush it on. I use it alot.
Brush it on, rust turns black, knock off the big stuff with a brush.
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sully
Now that sounds like about the easiest solution to me yet...


The sandblaster ideas would be ideal, but 1) I'm afraid of toasting my gears, and 2) I don't have a blaster.

Bob's acid solution sounds good, but if I can let someone else do it for a nominal fee, it's probably worth the time and safety.

Soooo... when the radiator shop "dips" it, what exactly are they dipping it in? Same phosphoric acid that Bob reccomended?
Not exactly sure what the solution is comprised of for radiator dipping but I've had radiator shop dip things for me in the past (gas tanks mostly, to get rid of the rust and crud on the inside). Don't know if it would damage the bearing surfaces or not (it doesn't damage brass/aluminum/copper radiators tho).....
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:28 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I bead blast gears all the time and have for 20+ years. just do the teeth and not the bores. leave your air set to 90 psi or so and back off the part 8" or 10". After your done blasting run them thrue the dishwasher. Do you now a dishwasher well hold two NP205`s and a ford 9" in a single load

P.S. Don`t let the old lady catch ya ,,,, I got busted with a load of hubcaps and thought my sex life was over for ever.
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:40 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.d.machine
I bead blast gears all the time and have for 20+ years. just do the teeth and not the bores. leave your air set to 90 psi or so and back off the part 8" or 10". After your done blasting run them thrue the dishwasher. Do you now a dishwasher well hold two NP205`s and a ford 9" in a single load

P.S. Don`t let the old lady catch ya ,,,, I got busted with a load of hubcaps and thought my sex life was over for ever.

I got busted with that very set of gears, and the accompanying case. (They were even uglier before that. Crusted dead lady bugs and old oil. )

She wasn't quite as pissed as I figgered she'd be.
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:41 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.d.machine
P.S. Don`t let the old lady catch ya ,,,, I got busted with a load of hubcaps and thought my sex life was over for ever.

BTW, same thing applies when using the oven to heat up ring gears....
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Old 03-03-2005, 12:10 PM   #19 (permalink)
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brake fluid and soft wire brush.
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Old 03-03-2005, 06:05 PM   #20 (permalink)
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There's a big difference between bead blasting and sand blasting.
With fine glass bead it will hardly etch the steel but sand blasting removes steel. Just as aluminum oxide blasting is very very aggressive.
Coarse glass beads will very slightly remove steel but will start to cut deeper the longer you concentrate the blasting.
The fine stuff is really nice to work with because it'll remove the rust and give you a great visual of the surface condition.
Also any blasting aggressiveness is relative the work piece, all of the above will remove material from aluminum and brass, except for walnut shells.

If you had a big media tumbler you could drop them in for a few hours depending on the media and have no hand work at all, just a little wiping and oiling.
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Old 03-03-2005, 06:42 PM   #21 (permalink)
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He doesn't have a blaster so back to the acid. It changes iron oxide(I think thats rust) to iron phosphate, which is not rust. The acid treatment will take one day if the rust is not real thick.
Brake fluid and ATF will clean it but they wont kill the rust like the acid will.
We get a lot of rust here in the redneck rivera and that is my favorite stuff for that. I buy it by the gallon but they sell it in smaller containers.
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:37 PM   #22 (permalink)
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You might try THIS. If you have a battery charger (who doesn't?) you can do it.

I tried this on a set of sick rusty calipers and it works great!
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Old 03-04-2005, 12:03 AM   #23 (permalink)
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The walnut shell & rad shop ideas sound easy on the metal surfaces. Remember that you'll want to preserve the work-hardening on the gear teeth. Any agressive media could ruin the work hardened surface integrity. Or, should I say integritty. I wonder how baking soda blasting would be?

I don't get the concern for bearing surfaces. With that much rust, all bearings & races should be removed before the rad shop or walnut shell techniques and then replaced with new upon rebuild.
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Old 03-04-2005, 12:58 AM   #24 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by 6869704x4
That acid works better if you brush it on. I use it alot.
Brush it on, rust turns black, knock off the big stuff with a brush.
Another way is to get some acid in a bucket.Add one gallon of water for every 2 gallons of acid then set some of the gears in there for about 1 hour.Take them out and rinse them off with the water hose.All the rust will be gone.After that put some metal treatment on there so they do not rust again.Because they will be shiny as new after you rinse off but the metal needs to be treated again.My frined was just telling me about this a few minutes ago because he did it on pieces for his bike that sat out in the rain and got rusted.I am going to do the brush on style for my chassis because i don't have a tank big enough to let it soak in.
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:06 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I have a complete set of clean D300 gears I will part with. PM me if interested.

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