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Old 10-29-2005, 06:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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quick thought on d60's

I was just thinking. how terrible would it be to run a dual rear wheel, front dana60? i mean wouldnt 15" wheels clear no problem then or stock h1 wheels? also, say you were running a 14b ff rear, wouldnt turning radius improve w/ the drw frt axle? i guess the only real draw back is could you afford the extra width if on tight trails. i run full size anyway ( 78 k5) im sure i could search for this but what is the width difference? srw v/s drw fronts. any way just aa thought. now tell me why i'm crazy
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Old 10-29-2005, 06:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There are a couple of guys out there running drw60's with stock H1 wheels. Time to do a search...
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Old 10-29-2005, 09:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I am looking at converting my dodge 60 with external hubs and drive flanges to GM DRW hubs with warn premiums so I don't have to hassle myself getting 35 spline outers. Sure, it will be like 10" WMS wider than the rear, but I haven't heard any arguments that this will be bad, except for looking funny. Makes sense to me cuz I can score the DRW hubs for free.
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Old 10-29-2005, 10:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davethorik
so I don't have to hassle myself getting 35 spline outers.

damn those pesky 35 spline outers... i mean, greater strength is such a pain in the ass and totally not worth it... what's the point of runnin 60's without 35 splines?
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Old 10-29-2005, 10:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yotacowboy
damn those pesky 35 spline outers... i mean, greater strength is such a pain in the ass and totally not worth it... what's the point of runnin 60's without 35 splines?
OK douchebag, find me 35 spline hubs for a Dodge D60 with external hubs.
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Old 10-29-2005, 11:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Davethorik
Sure, it will be like 10" WMS wider than the rear, but I haven't heard any arguments that this will be bad, except for looking funny.
You're going to be swinging that tire around when you steer because the wheel is so much further out from the kingpins. Probably have to go nuts with the sawsall even for a 33" tire. H1 wheels work because of the huge backspacing.

I would look at broaching the external hubs to 35-spline. They're probably tougher than Warn premiums anyways.
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Old 10-29-2005, 11:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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PHP Code:
find me 35 spline hubs for a Dodge D60 with external hubs
Do a little investigating & you can come up with some
Rebroached by any machinist who can cut internal splines or just have the ca$h handy & buy them from Summers Bros.
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Old 10-29-2005, 11:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Or, if you can find them, stock D70 front external flanges:
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Old 10-30-2005, 01:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LC Hamma
PHP Code:
find me 35 spline hubs for a Dodge D60 with external hubs
Do a little investigating & you can come up with some
Wow.

Those sure don't look like hubs to me. Wait, I'm wording it wrong. Lockouts. I didn't know so many people here read by Braille.

I have stock drive flanges on my D60. That look just like those.

I want locking hubs.

There is NO 35 spline external mount locking hub made. That was my point. I am not going to broach weak-ass (and expensive!) Selectro or Superwinch hub to solve my problem. I'd like Warn premiums. I've had good experience with them before.

Aside, thanks u2slow. I do know the reason most people run the DRW outers is to use H1 rims. I am going to go with H2 aluminum rims, which don't have quite the BS of the H1's, but are close. Which is another reason I want to get them out farther, too. The Dodge D60 is 67" wms, stock D44 is also 67"ish. The stock skinny 32's that were on my truck rubbed full lock on flat ground. Kinda want to get away from that.
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Old 10-30-2005, 07:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I run H1's on my DRW 60, the scrub radius is not bad, but before i got the H1's i had some 16.5 x 10's with 4" backspacing w/38" TSL's you would not believe the triming i had to do to get them to clear on flat ground when they were full lock. Another thing is the steering effort, it sucked off pavement, because you are trying to move the tires forward and back, not in a circle inside of themselves. I would recomend runnig H1 weheels on a DRW
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Old 10-30-2005, 10:29 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Davethorik
I am not going to broach weak-ass (and expensive!) Selectro or Superwinch hub to solve my problem.
I have some D44 Selectros, and have handled the Landrover and 6x6 versions also... there is nothing weak about the hub itself. They make me ashamed of the Warn Premiums on my D60. I can't argue about the expensive part though.

The other issue I see with running a 'normal' wheel on the DRW hub is the extra leverage on the bearings. Regardless, the price it right. Even if they end up not working, you still have the option of machining off the the flanges, or trading for SRW hubs.
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Old 10-30-2005, 11:53 AM   #12 (permalink)
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ok well i can get a set of h1's cheap at the local 4wd center but they dont have the run flats . isnt that something i would need?
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Old 10-30-2005, 04:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCGamedog
ok well i can get a set of h1's cheap at the local 4wd center but they dont have the run flats . isnt that something i would need?
You don't need the mag runflat/beadlocks. You can get some of the PVC locks from Stazworks or 66CJDean, both are vendors here on PBB. The mag locks are really not too difficult to find either, although removing the runflat portion is more work than ordering the PVC locks.
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Old 10-30-2005, 04:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCGamedog
ok well i can get a set of h1's cheap...but they dont have the run flats . isnt that something i would need?

Only if you want to drive around with flat tires...
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