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Old 01-11-2006, 12:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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welding to rims technique?

is there a special way to weld a ring to a rim lip to avoid warping or are they thick enough to just weld away?
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Old 01-11-2006, 12:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Weld away!

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Old 01-11-2006, 01:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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center it realy nice, tack it so it dont move. weld the bitch.

I do a few inches and then switch sides just in case
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Old 01-11-2006, 01:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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center it realy nice, tack it so it dont move. weld the bitch.

I do a few inches and then switch sides just in case

That is what I did on the last set - tacked in four places - then in between each tack laid down 2-3 inches and then rotated until done.

I did it in my carport with a wooden chair and stacked a couple rims to get a comfortable height - next time I will put a welding blanket over my pants.
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Old 01-11-2006, 01:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Your not welding until you are on fire.
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Old 01-11-2006, 01:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Your not welding until you are on fire.

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Old 01-11-2006, 01:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budd
That is what I did on the last set - tacked in four places - then in between each tack laid down 2-3 inches and then rotated until done.

I did it in my carport with a wooden chair and stacked a couple rims to get a comfortable height - next time I will put a welding blanket over my pants.
I took an extra spindle and hub and placed them on the ground and set the rim on it and had a perfect little turntable Sitting on a milk crate next to it was the perfect height to set my pant cuffs on fire
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Old 01-12-2006, 10:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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should I weld the backside of the ring too?
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Old 01-12-2006, 10:55 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I guess that depends on the kit you have. Mine set inside the lip of the rim - thus preventing welding the back in any practicle way.
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:08 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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The most important thing I have found about welding these is the prep work. You have to make everthing nice and clean. Leaving paint on the rim in the area your attemping to weld to is a prime recipe for pin hole air leaks in your welds.

I have never had any of mine leak, but that is because I have a sandblaster in the shop and I usually blast the rims off before I weld to them.

I had a buddy who just kinda half ass grinded the area so he could get a ground when he welded up his rims. He was chasing leaks for 2 months.
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:13 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Solution...

Summit

4 rims
15 x 8
8 on 6.5 bc

raw unpainted

167.10 shipped to my door

As of Tuesday January 10, 2006


EDIT:
Thanks for asking the question...I will be welding mine up in the next week or two. I have searched, searched, and searched some more...and it appears from that that you really can't fuck it up. Straight welding or stitch method ends up the same...That as mentioned the prep work is what yields the best set up.

Hence just starting with brand new, TRUE and clean non-painted rims...

Last edited by Harvester of Sorrow; 01-12-2006 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:15 AM   #12 (permalink)
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JB weld. Be a trend setter
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:45 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvester of Sorrow
Solution...

Summit

4 rims
15 x 8
8 on 6.5 bc

raw unpainted

167.10 shipped to my door

As of Tuesday January 10, 2006


EDIT:
Thanks for asking the question...I will be welding mine up in the next week or two. I have searched, searched, and searched some more...and it appears from that that you really can't fuck it up. Straight welding or stitch method ends up the same...That as mentioned the prep work is what yields the best set up.

Hence just starting with brand new, TRUE and clean non-painted rims...
Even though they are new it would'nt hurt to take a wire wheel on a grinder and remove the mill scale from around the bead area where you are welding. The cleaner the better is my motto.
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:47 AM   #14 (permalink)
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When I welded the inner rings on my wheels ( the rings sat on the wheel lip ) I ground a small chamfer on the wheel lip and on the ring giving a nice little V groove to lay the bead in. Then I tacked in four spots 90* apart and welded in two inch incraments 180* apart from each other on the O.D. only, It worked well enough not to leak.
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Old 01-12-2006, 02:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Shop I used to work at had a cool homebuilt setup for welding rims and anything round. Used a variable speed router controller on an electric motor, two pulley setup to reduce the speed down. The 2nd pulley had a shaft on it which you could place various fixtures depending on what you were welding. For instance he had a fixture for nearly every bolt pattern of rim, ones with hold down clamps for other pieces... Anyways, slap the rim on, tighten it down and put the MIG gun in the holder. This holder basically is a rest for the MIG nozzle to hold it at a set angle and distance in relation to the weld area. It takes a little bit to get everything setup as far as the speed of rotation, heat and wire speed. But DAM once you do you can blast through them in no time. But the nice thing is the weld consistency is incredible.
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Old 01-12-2006, 02:36 PM   #16 (permalink)
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that would be nice but mine won't be welded a full 360, there are notches every few inches in the ring
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