toy 8" can it be rebroached for 35 spline - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 10-05-2006, 02:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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toy 8" can it be rebroached for 35 spline

SORRY ITS A 8,3/4 RING GEAR THANKS TO ERICB CORRECTING ME ,i am thinking of doing a hybrid front axle still useing my toy center and d60 outers ,all with 35 spline inner axles and outer stubs
so as the tittle says can the toy center be resplined or rebroached (not sure what its called technically)as i want to keep my arb and spend as little $ as possible right now
i am tired of breaking steering arm studs

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Old 10-05-2006, 03:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Its been done. Notice on Diamond Axle's site they offer a 35 spline Toy axle. I'm not sure its worth it though. The R&P then become the weak link (and maybe already are with chromo 30 spline), and that gets pretty expensive to have as a weak link.
Diamond and/or PolyPerformance can probably set you up with broaching your ARB side gears though.

As for the steering arm studs- have you seen the big D44 stud upgrade for Toy axles? I don't think anyone is breaking those...?
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Last edited by ErikB; 10-05-2006 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 10-05-2006, 03:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I don't know how much power you have, but I'm with Erik on this, your r&p would become your fuse. I've never been dumb enough to run Toyota stuff, but my brother has and he could strip out a 5.13 r&p with his mega-80hp at will. Like, you could tell him to do it, he could hit the gas and make it happen. He's since gone to 4.10's, which haven't stripped yet, but would easily with a little more power. And that is with stock inners and chromo outers.

I would say with 100% confidence that your r&p would push daisies LONG before any 35-spline stuff would. Not only that, but if you need the strength of 35-spline stuff, I would say that your r&p would say goodbye OFTEN.

In addition to that, I'd be willing to bet that, to fit a 35-spline shaft through a carrier bearing, you'd have to broach your carrier bearing bores, too. That would leave very little material left and I'd be willing to bet that the carrier would break out of its bores. I've seen that happen before just from torque stresses in a stock Toyota housing. You'd just be making that even weaker.

So in summary, IMO, TERRIBLE IDEA!

J. J.
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Old 10-05-2006, 03:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks for your replies, i just thought a fj40 toy front center were close to being as strong as a ford 9 "center,wishful thinking i guess
what do you think about just putting d60 c,s and outers and adapt the hubs somehow to fit the toy inner axles and some how putting a rubber boot around the birf
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Old 10-05-2006, 04:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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An Fj-40 has an 8-3/4" ring gear, probably is significantly stronger, but you said 8"...

As for the carrier bores, yes those have to be turned larger too, but there is a lot of meat there (at least on the V6 and Tundra style) so strength at that spot is probably not an issue.

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Old 10-05-2006, 04:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Oh, I'm sorry. I thought you were talking about broaching an 8" toy third. I know nothing about the FJ thirds, so ignore everything I said. (It may still be true, I don't know.)

J. J.
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Old 10-05-2006, 04:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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OH, BTW, if 9" strength is what you're shooting for, I think it would be easier and cheaper to just build a 9".
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Old 10-05-2006, 08:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patooyee
Oh, I'm sorry. I thought you were talking about broaching an 8" toy third. I know nothing about the FJ thirds, so ignore everything I said. (It may still be true, I don't know.)

J. J.
yeh sorry about that i thought a fj40 was a 8" ring gear but i now know its a 8 3/4 ring gear thanks to eric b, so i will go and edit the title
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Old 10-05-2006, 08:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikB
Its been done. Notice on Diamond Axle's site they offer a 35 spline Toy axle. I'm not sure its worth it though. The R&P then become the weak link (and maybe already are with chromo 30 spline), and that gets pretty expensive to have as a weak link.
Diamond and/or PolyPerformance can probably set you up with broaching your ARB side gears though.

As for the steering arm studs- have you seen the big D44 stud upgrade for Toy axles? I don't think anyone is breaking those...?
i am checking into diamond right now and awaiting a reply, it would be nice if they can rebroach my toy 8 3/4 center section then i could just put d60 outers on my axle (maybe) and i will hopefully have a reasonablely strong front axle and not break anymore steering arms etc
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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as said before, longfields already exceed the ring and pinion in strength. so the 35 spline is way overkill.

the bolts have the upgrades as well. i just got pissed off at one and had no money in the bank, so i welded the damn 4x4labs highsteer set i had on. yep, it was redneck and ghetto it also don't sheer off anymore. i'll grind it off if i need later.

ps: the fj40 8.75 is up there with the ford 9. significantly more beef that the minitruck stuff

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Old 10-06-2006, 12:21 AM   #11 (permalink)
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i believe the fj40 knuckles where the steering arms bolt are smaller than the mini truck knuckles which is part of my problem, i have a spare mini truck knuckles which my fj40 4x4 labs arm dont fit due to being smaller so for now i will just weld the arms on the fj knuckles and wait till i break them. then i will look into d60 outers, i just hate breaking down in the middle of a long trail ride.
i trust the super longfields even tho one of them must have got distorted as it will not turn as freely when it was new and they do have a life time warantee
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Old 10-06-2006, 04:54 AM   #12 (permalink)
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how about the 6 stud marlin arms??
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Old 10-06-2006, 05:12 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I am still beta testing our 8 bolt design that we use in our comp rig. It use the upper and lower knuckle bolts so the stresses are not just on the top side. At this time they have worked perfectly with no loosening or breakage.The comp rig uses toyota mini truck steering axles front and rear. The only thing that we have broken was a hi pinion 8 but it was mostly due to other factors. As for the axles I would highly recomend Bobby Longs Super Axles they has worked awsome for use with 50 Deg. of steering angle.

I will try to get some pics up later.

Wayne
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Old 10-06-2006, 03:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upnover
I am still beta testing our 8 bolt design that we use in our comp rig. It use the upper and lower knuckle bolts so the stresses are not just on the top side. At this time they have worked perfectly with no loosening or breakage.The comp rig uses toyota mini truck steering axles front and rear. The only thing that we have broken was a hi pinion 8 but it was mostly due to other factors. As for the axles I would highly recomend Bobby Longs Super Axles they has worked awsome for use with 50 Deg. of steering angle.

I will try to get some pics up later.

Wayne
i have the bobby super longs and shafts but i am really interested in your steering arms keep me informed thanks
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Old 10-06-2006, 03:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hvy_Chevy
how about the 6 stud marlin arms??
yes you can get the arms but they are no good if you dont have the 6 bolt knuckles to go with them, and the way it looks they will not be comeing out with them any time soon
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Old 10-06-2006, 07:13 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upnover
I am still beta testing our 8 bolt design that we use in our comp rig. It use the upper and lower knuckle bolts so the stresses are not just on the top side. At this time they have worked perfectly with no loosening or breakage.The comp rig uses toyota mini truck steering axles front and rear. The only thing that we have broken was a hi pinion 8 but it was mostly due to other factors. As for the axles I would highly recomend Bobby Longs Super Axles they has worked awsome for use with 50 Deg. of steering angle.

I will try to get some pics up later.

Wayne

is that a typo? 50 degree steering? on toy axles?
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Old 10-06-2006, 07:37 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I still need to get the pics up, and no its not a typo about 50 deg. I run no steering stops and evan had to remove two of the 6 mm bolts that hold the felt kit in because of interferance with knuckle to the housing. I might be able to push it a little more but my links are the limiting factor at this point.

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Old 10-10-2006, 07:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
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heres some pics of the test set but the finished will be more refined.

Wayne
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Old 10-10-2006, 07:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I know that garbage...
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Old 10-10-2006, 08:00 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upnover
heres some pics of the test set but the finished will be more refined.

Wayne
i like that idea ,but how do you put it together ,does the two arm bolt together ? or do you put them on then weld them up
thanks for your input
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Old 10-10-2006, 08:13 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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diamond does these conversions for 3-400buck (i believe) on the tacoma chunks but on the mini truck axles there isnt enough material to machine out and still maintain the strength. i thought about it on my tacoma chunk but decided against it for cost/strength issues.
p.s. those knuckle look STOUT!!! i want some!
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Old 10-10-2006, 08:13 PM   #22 (permalink)
 
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double post

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Old 10-10-2006, 09:15 PM   #23 (permalink)
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The arms are designed to be inner-locking so they can be removed easily,they also allow for shim thickness differences.

Wayne
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Old 10-11-2006, 12:02 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upnover
The arms are designed to be inner-locking so they can be removed easily,they also allow for shim thickness differences.

Wayne

inner locking meaning they bolt together with somekind of hinge so shims can be used ? i need a better pic to see what you mean
thanks for the info
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