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Old 01-31-2008, 11:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Rebirth of a crawler

Have you ever stepped back, took a look at your rig and thought… DAMN THIS THING NEEDS A MAKEOVER… Well, if you’re the ugly duck of your group this thread will hopefully inspire you to buy a sawzall and a few cases of beer. Don’t be scared, your buddies will cheer you on as each piece hits the floor! If you get in over your head… well your not alone, you can always bring your frame to us and we’ll help turn it into the coolest rig in your group!

I know we did this at this time last year, but looking back at all the pics we took is inspiring… It won Jason the “GUNG HO” award at the first XRRA last year in Jelico, and it’s worth sharing. So here’s how it went down.

Jason comes to me 15 days before the first XRRA at Jelico last year and says he wants to rework his buggy. OH, and can you have it done in time to make the first XRRA this season? After a few min of BS this sort of became a challenge. So, off Jason goes to get his buggy. A few days on the drawing board and we’ve now got 11 days till tech.

The chassis was originally built by Justin Lamb at Kentucky Offroad for the ERROC series back in 2001. The rig has quite a bit of competition history before being bought by Jason, the president of Kamakaze Mudders. Though it sports the stock 4 popper from the original Zuk, custom Axles built by Spidertrax with Tracker center sections and Cryogenic axels are four linked on both ends and matched to the motor with 5.28 crawler gears in the transfer. Add coilovers on all four corners and this is a very capable rig.... HOWEVER, built for Justin, The new owner looked like a Gorilla stuffed in a shoebox trying to drive this thing... The idea was to restyle the platform to a modern buggy design that is more trail friendly and fits the new owner. Jason had plans to run a few XRRA comps and be on the trails several times a month. We feel we did a great job with his goals and was probably the best budget build we’ve ever attempted.

YES, this was a budget build, the idea behind it was to inspire people to follow their dreams and to show that you don’t have to build a $80k rig to go play with the big dogs… enjoy!

Here’s what showed up…








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Old 01-31-2008, 11:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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We got it stripped the same day



Jason asked where I wanted him to cut at… I started pointing at every attachment to the frame! He didn’t even flinch, Hell, he even brought his own sayzall!

After a few min..





That was day 1… we had a clean slate, after half a night of grinding…
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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second day in the shop

Day 2 was spent laying out the lower part of the rear. Just when Jason thought he was done with the sawzall… I told him to start cutting the rest of the original tubework out.










Might as well take a few inches more off the frame..







And we got the original chassis hauled off, wrapping up day 2



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Old 02-01-2008, 06:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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WOW! What an ugly pile of shit
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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WOW!!!!! that is all
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Are the links 1" conduit?
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Old 02-01-2008, 08:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Now I know exactly what it'd look like if I built a buggy.
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Old 02-01-2008, 08:08 AM   #8 (permalink)
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A: why didn't you start over
B: are your coil overs on upside down?
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Old 02-01-2008, 08:09 AM   #9 (permalink)
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CO's look to have shock bushings in them also
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Old 02-01-2008, 08:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
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*flame suit on*

I liked it before you tore it town just get it blasted and shoot it with a fresh paint job and go
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Old 02-01-2008, 09:24 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
CO's look to have shock bushings in them also
I may be wrong, but those coil overs look more like standard shocks that have a sleeve on them to hold the springs on. Similar to what the cheap honda car coil over kits do.

EDIT: It will be interesting to see what the finished product looks like. What little has been done so far looks like it should be a lot better than the old stuff was. I think I would have taken a pressure washer to it before even starting to rebuild it too.

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Old 02-01-2008, 09:42 AM   #12 (permalink)
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A: why didn't you start over
B: are your coil overs on upside down?
A: Take note as the purpose of the thread is to show others that if you think you junk looks like... well, JUNK. Cut that SOB up and make it better! If it already runs and drives you will save a ton on all the little junk that adds up on a new build, the rest is just cosmetic. It was running and driving, and all we really did was "restyle" the existing buggy.

B: those aren't really coilovers... did i say he was on a budget? those are 10" Hijacker's with a kit to put coilover springs on them, for CHEAP! For the guy on a huge budget they aren't that bad... and set up without the hastle of mounting springs and shocks seperately. I'll get some more info on these up soon.
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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are you redoing the suspension? Those links look puny
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:41 AM   #14 (permalink)
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are you redoing the suspension? Those links look puny
The links were built back in 2001 before everyone started using 7075! Hell, there were less people than you could count on one hand even experimenting with aluminum links then! Keep in mind, as hideous as the original buggy was, it was cutting edge in 2001. The links were 1.25" solid 6061 aluminum all the way around when first built. Of course everyone competing quickly found out that this was not even close to strong enough for comps! The lowers had been replaced with 1.25x9/32" wall DOM sometime in the past. This is the same stuff we use now, because you can simply cut it the length you need and the ID is the correct tap size for a 3/4" heim. After you run the tap in cut a piece of 1.5x.120 wall DOM and sleeve it. It is a very easy way to build a pretty tough link. If you don't feel that’s strong or heavy enough, sleeve it with 1.75x.120 wall DOM again! I wanted to sleeve these lowers but almost every link was tweaked. It wasn't in the budget to replace any of them. So based on the fact they had survived most of 6 years like they were... we left them alone with hopes he could replace them when budget allowed. I did however rework all the suspension attachment points to give it better geometry both on the axles and at the frame. The original points on the frame were such a joke, I crack up every time I go back and look at these pics. We'll get to some suspension rework, be patient
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Old 02-01-2008, 02:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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yes ill agree with everyone it looked realy bad but it worked realy good i did alot of trails that other built veh could net do and i have trashed that thing from day one and evan jumped cars at a exabition in lexington. the coilovers and control arms have never let me down.i have broke other parts that i was told should never break but thats the way i drive.no the shocks are not mounted up side down thay are oil shocks here is a leank to the site i got tham from http://www.roughterrainparts.com/ if you are building a light weight buggie aor jeep i would recomend these evan if you bend a shock you can get replacements for $30 they are explorer shocks i have only bent one and that was due to a tree i hit after a few minutes in a 10ton press i am still using the same ome a year later and have competed in the xrra with it like that with no prob.i hope i have helped you all out with your questions

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Old 02-01-2008, 03:48 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Is the new cage tubing chromoly or what? Color of it is why I ask and the weird heat marks at the welds?
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Old 02-01-2008, 03:58 PM   #17 (permalink)
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it is dom tubing the company we got it from had oil or something along that line on it it made for a good mess when working with it
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Old 02-01-2008, 04:45 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Tubing

It's 1.75 x .120 wall DOM. Our local steel supplier gets it preoiled with something to help with shelf life in their building. It's a BITCH.. we have to wipe everything down with mineral spirits before handling it. When it doesn't get wiped down enough the heat zone of the weld burns it off. It's a real pain to prep for paint too!
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Old 02-01-2008, 04:53 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I think it needs more anti-squat.
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Old 02-01-2008, 05:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I think it needs more anti-squat.
HAHAHA!! study the second and third pic in the first post... The damm thing went better in reverse than it did forward!

Jason.. i know you've got some old pics of car crushin' in reverse! you got to postem up..
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Old 02-01-2008, 05:04 PM   #21 (permalink)
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To make this an official pirate build I will have to add-
Definitely needs more triangulation
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Old 02-01-2008, 05:39 PM   #22 (permalink)
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WOW. I forgot what it looked like before. Didn't know you guys did all that. That's cool.

BTW - Justin competed in 2003 with that on 35" Krawlers in the Unlimited class. I was there for the unveiling. He was shooting for the modified class when he first started, but it was way under the weight requirements, so he didn't try so hard on the body when they found out how much it weighed. He tried to go the "light is better" route...reason for the skinny aluminum links. I think that thing weighed around 2000 pounds.
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Old 02-01-2008, 05:47 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I have seen that buggy go through pure hell at the southern shine crawl the past few years..
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Old 02-02-2008, 10:33 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Day 3

We got the front framed out for a new Suzuki Sidekick hood to be used, of course we had to narrow it up a bit. We also got the upper part of the chassis’ A and B pillars in. This is always the best part of a build, you always have to allow extra time for drinking a beer and staring at the new shape of the chassis.







The side of the chassis was designed with the fact that this buggy will see trail riding 2 or more times a month. Jason being such a big guy, we needed to make it easy to get in and out of.





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Old 02-02-2008, 05:28 PM   #25 (permalink)
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