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Old 02-26-2008, 09:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
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cutting brake ???

With a 1 in 2 out to each rear wheel with two handles; Do your brakes still work nomal when you push the peddle? Hows that work? Does it just run throught the little cylinders without the use of the handles?
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Old 02-26-2008, 09:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Yep, I don't notice any difference when I'm not using the levers.

If you hold the brake pedal down you'll notice you can't move the levers at all...basically the pedal pressurizes the whole system and the levers only pressurize their individual circuits. I'd imagine it's a one-way valve of sorts at the inlet.

I've also been able to successfully gravity-bleed both my rear brakes through the cutting brakes.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Do you bleed the cutting brake M.C. throught the main M.C.'s or do you 'bench bleed' the cutting brake before installation? I have not recieved my cutting brake yet, so maybe after I see it it will be obvious?
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Do you bleed the cutting brake M.C. throught the main M.C.'s or do you 'bench bleed' the cutting brake before installation? I have not recieved my cutting brake yet, so maybe after I see it it will be obvious?

When get yours give your thoughts on it and any helpful info in general as far as the installation. I think this is going to be my next mod and I'm just trying to learn some more about'em. What brand did you get? Anyone know how long the handles are on the CNCs?
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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on the 2 handle you will
push brake and hold pull left handle (that goes to left rear) then open bleeder
and the same thing but use right handle and open right bleeder
and i have CNC
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Old 02-26-2008, 01:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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When get yours give your thoughts on it and any helpful info in general as far as the installation. I think this is going to be my next mod and I'm just trying to learn some more about'em. What brand did you get? Anyone know how long the handles are on the CNCs?
I bought a CNC single handle lever.
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Old 02-26-2008, 01:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJDale View Post
When get yours give your thoughts on it and any helpful info in general as far as the installation. I think this is going to be my next mod and I'm just trying to learn some more about'em. What brand did you get? Anyone know how long the handles are on the CNCs?
I got the CNC dual-handle ones from Poly Performance. It's the kind of thing that I don't use a whole lot but is really nice to have in some spots, especially with a twin-stick case.

The handles are probably about a foot long, you can see mine in this pic:



There's a better pic in some other thread on here, lemme see if I can remember it...
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Old 02-26-2008, 01:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Here ya go...

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...0&postcount=18
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Old 02-26-2008, 02:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Those handles are long as shit. Do you need that much leverage?
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:16 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I am pretty new to the 4 wheel world and cutting breaks are something I don't totally understand. Not trying to jack just wondering about them. The purpose or when to use and why? thanks
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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They are good for front digs , where you disengage the rear and lock the rear brake and move the front over .
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Old 02-26-2008, 04:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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I assume by your user name TjDale that you will be installing this on a TJ?

Take a look at my build up post # 93

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=501250&page=2

They also work well for playing in the snow on icy roads, a quick pull of the lever gets your rear end sliding in the correct direction then apply power to round out the corner. I had my wife playing this game a couple months ago. good times.
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Old 02-26-2008, 05:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Those handles are long as shit. Do you need that much leverage?
Yes.
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Old 02-26-2008, 05:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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For the proper way to bleed them, do a search under my screenname under, bleeding cutting brakes...the way listed above does not purge the cutting brake cylinder properly and i have done a few writeups on the proper methods to actually get it fully bled.
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Old 02-26-2008, 05:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I am in the process of installing the CNC rockcrawler cutting brakes in mine, the way I am setting it up I can lock any tire at any time or pull both to lock the rear or push both to lock the front


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Old 02-26-2008, 10:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtruck44 View Post
Yes.
Indeed. Even with all the leverage, to lock a rear wheel completely I still end up pressing on the lever pretty damn hard. Your arm has about as much leverage on the brake system as your foot does, without the benefit of a booster etc...so yeah, you gotta hang on it.

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For the proper way to bleed them, do a search under my screenname under, bleeding cutting brakes...the way listed above does not purge the cutting brake cylinder properly and i have done a few writeups on the proper methods to actually get it fully bled.
I've seen your writeup, and it's definitely right. The fact that I was able to gravity bleed mine is absolutely an odd statistic and I've yet to meet anyone who shares my fantastic luck. It absolutely worked for me though...I can lock up a rear tire at about 1/2 travel on the cutting brake cylinder, and I've locked all 4 tires in traffic (39.5). I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't been driving it for the last 13 months...but YMMV.
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Old 02-27-2008, 12:29 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Pardon my ignorance, but where do the cutting brake cylinders get the fluid from? Are they plumbed to the mc reservoir, and return there as well? I've been trying to figure a way with check valves, line lock/ bypasses to do this with a spare clutch mc(and hand lever), but figured the 2 reservoirs would end up swapping fluid. I didn't think about plumbing it to the brake mc instead of using its own reservoir.
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Old 02-27-2008, 06:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The ones I have just plumb inline and have a flow through for regular brake pedal built in
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Old 05-25-2010, 02:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'm gonna bring this thread back up. I fully understand the concept and application of cutting brakes for the rear tires. Sharper turns are always good. But one thing I'm not fully understanding, I'm sure it will be answered quickly, is what is the point of installing cutting brakes on the front? My guess is for off camber situations where you don't need a tire rolling because it may cause a roll over.

Also, I haven't seen much as far as a line lock for cutting brakes so that you can pull the lever and leave it until you need to release. I'm sure there is a reason for this?

Thanks,

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Old 05-25-2010, 02:33 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Joe, sometimes you want to "feather" the brakes...the cutting brake allows that.

Next, on the front, allows you to do rear digs and "pivot" around whichever tire is locked up. We do other stuff with em too, like locking the right front / digging a left front hole with the ARB unlocked, then locking the left front and using that hole as a "pivot point"...and more...more...more...but most of that stuff is for competition.
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Old 05-25-2010, 02:42 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate Joe View Post
I'm gonna bring this thread back up. I fully understand the concept and application of cutting brakes for the rear tires. Sharper turns are always good. But one thing I'm not fully understanding, I'm sure it will be answered quickly, is what is the point of installing cutting brakes on the front? My guess is for off camber situations where you don't need a tire rolling because it may cause a roll over.

Also, I haven't seen much as far as a line lock for cutting brakes so that you can pull the lever and leave it until you need to release. I'm sure there is a reason for this?

Thanks,

-Joe
*edit yeah...what said
I'm no expert on cutting brakes, but you can pivot around a locked front tire (and burn some killer doughnuts) the same as a rear tire. Good for competitive rock crawling, it just depends on which way you need to pivot.

I'd guess the reason must don't use a typical line lock for cutting brakes is that they are too slow. You have to press the brake, activate the line lock, let off the brake, then dig/turn then repeat to release. Cutting brakes are faster, pull the lever, dig/turn, then let off and continue on your way.

My $.02.
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Old 05-26-2010, 02:55 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I found this video of Shanon Campbell's run to be very educative on how these guys use cutting breaks. See 2nd half with the rear facing view:

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Old 05-26-2010, 01:16 PM   #23 (permalink)
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That is how we drive as well...far less use of the steering wheel when using the cutting brakes and due to the rear outside tire overdriving, it slides the rear opposite of the locked tire, enabling you to cut inside on lines and set up the rear-end tracking far more accurately.
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Old 12-24-2011, 06:42 PM   #24 (permalink)
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For the proper way to bleed them, do a search under my screenname under, bleeding cutting brakes...the way listed above does not purge the cutting brake cylinder properly and i have done a few writeups on the proper methods to actually get it fully bled.
I do not find it.
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:47 PM   #25 (permalink)
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This one?

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=455650
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