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Old 07-26-2009, 05:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Help! axle problems.

Well, first things first, I'm a fucking idiot. When I had the axle built, I specifically told them to place the pumpkin as close to the spring perch as possible. In a genius move, I completely forgot about that all-important u-bolt.

Here's what I've got:







Is there any reason I couldn't get a block machined to fit against the housing and perch, and drilled/tapped, and just weld that to the housing/perch and use Grade 8 bolts on that side?

A u-bolt just won't fit, it would have to be a 4.5-5" u-bolt to get around the housing, and would have to have a machined piece welded to the bottom of the housing to hold it.

The only other option is to cut the perches off, get new ones, and offset the housing 5/8-3/4" from center. This isn't as ideal due to oil pan/driveshaft/spring-tire clearance
.
This is one of those things you just can't fucking believe you did...
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Last edited by nissancrawler; 07-26-2009 at 05:55 AM.
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Old 07-26-2009, 07:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
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fab a stud plate for the diff side and weld it in. . You will just use high grade nuts on top of the sprig plate. Looks like there is plenty of room and good metal to weld to. Kinda like the dodge 44's or 60's used to do it.. You could use Dana 44 steering arm studs.. 9/16x18.. you could even make the plate out of some thick material and thread it for the studs instead of welding the studs in

Easy, Quick and Strong.. Problem solved
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Last edited by Pat; 07-26-2009 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 07-26-2009, 07:56 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Smart ass comment-- 4 link that should fix it
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Old 07-26-2009, 12:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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duh on the studs, can't believe that didn't cross my mind. Thanks for the idea, that makes me much more comfortable than bolts. There's enough room to do a thick block and thread it for studs.

Yeah, 4 link would be nice, but...this project has been sitting for 6 years, and I want to get it going again. The money just isn't there for a 4 link seutp.
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Old 07-26-2009, 09:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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duh on the studs, can't believe that didn't cross my mind. Thanks for the idea, that makes me much more comfortable than bolts. There's enough room to do a thick block and thread it for studs.

Yeah, 4 link would be nice, but...this project has been sitting for 6 years, and I want to get it going again. The money just isn't there for a 4 link seutp.
no problem.. What axle you building there anyhow?
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Old 07-26-2009, 11:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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mine was closer,i just bent the u bolts.
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Old 07-27-2009, 12:43 AM   #7 (permalink)
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no problem.. What axle you building there anyhow?
It's a crossed up offroad 60/9".



They did a great job on it, they did exactly what the idiot that ordered it told them to do. There's no way I can fault them for this one.

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mine was closer,i just bent the u bolts.
Yeah, I was sorely tempted, but the way it is, there isn't even room to get the u-bolt bent and between the housing/perch. it would have to be a 5" u-bolt to get around the housing. When you try and put it on from the bottom, you can't get the u-bolt past the bottom of the spring perch.

There's plenty of room for a thick block for studs, I'll just do that.
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:05 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Could always weld a heave piece of small ID tube to the front and back of the housing and run a couple bolts up from the bottom. I'd do that over welding a bolt on there and losing the temper in the bolts any day.
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:07 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Could always weld a heave piece of small ID tube to the front and back of the housing and run a couple bolts up from the bottom. I'd do that over welding a bolt on there and losing the temper in the bolts any day.
Nope, no room for bolts or tubing on the bottom. I'm not going to weld bolts, I'm going to weld a threaded block on and install studs.
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm not talking about doing anything on the bottom... Just on the front and back of the housing itself. If there is room for a threaded block there is room to run a bolt through some tube. The only thing I'd worry about with the block is having enough meat to be strong. If you can pull it off then you have a sweet front axle. If not you fawked up.
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:50 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Stud plate was what I thought of too. Also, that tie-rod looks a lil flimsy...I know that one makes for quicker changes but I'd get something beefier.

Nice housing. I've seen the Crossed Up Pro Modified setup and they do well with it. You should be stoked.
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:13 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I'm not talking about doing anything on the bottom... Just on the front and back of the housing itself. If there is room for a threaded block there is room to run a bolt through some tube. The only thing I'd worry about with the block is having enough meat to be strong. If you can pull it off then you have a sweet front axle. If not you fawked up.
I know what you meant, but the bolts would have to be 5" apart to do that, which would make for an interesting spring plate. The threaded block will be on top, so I can keep the normal spacing.
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Old 07-27-2009, 06:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Just use square bolts around the spring instead of around the tube.
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Old 07-27-2009, 06:13 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Or if you want to get fancy, you could do something like this
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Last edited by oldjeep; 07-27-2009 at 06:14 AM.
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