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Old 03-03-2011, 06:29 PM   #351 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Bruce View Post
A quick smack on the floor If you tap the outside of the bend on a hard surface it will open up the bend a little. Don't hit it hard enough to deform the tube - just hard enough to release some of the pressure from the bend. Works best with bends over 45-60 degrees.
Do you make your cages out of Exhaust tubing?

I put a peice in my bender backwards to pull some bend out of it, Kinked it.

Dont overbend shit
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:41 PM   #352 (permalink)
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A receiver hitch on a truck also works.
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Old 03-03-2011, 07:35 PM   #353 (permalink)
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A receiver hitch on a truck also works.

this works great or when my bender stand was mounted to the floor i welded a few 4 in peices of diff size tube to the floor plate just stick end of tube with bend in the right size tube on floor and pull
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Old 03-04-2011, 11:00 AM   #354 (permalink)
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Quote:
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A receiver hitch on a truck also works.
Did that one. Ended up smacking myself in the chest when it came loose. Good to know I'm not the only one doing it that way though!

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this works great or when my bender stand was mounted to the floor i welded a few 4 in peices of diff size tube to the floor plate just stick end of tube with bend in the right size tube on floor and pull
cool idea!.

Unfortunately I have hydro and no place to mount it down.

So rule number one is, don't over bend it, and two is, start working out a lot cause its just a matter of muscling it back into position if you do over do it.

Thanks!
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Old 03-04-2011, 11:02 AM   #355 (permalink)
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Dont overbend shit
Funny

This is like when my buddy ran his f350 outta diesel, and he checked the owners manual in the truck and looked under, "what to do if you run out of fuel". Answer: "Don't run out of fuel".
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:53 PM   #356 (permalink)
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Bracket die

The female die started with a piece of sc 40 pipe. The male is 2" tubing. The disk are are left over pieces from hole saw cuts.
When I weld stuff like this I don't worry about appearance, I just push the rod in like toothpaste.
Took about 45 minutes to make the die set.
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:57 PM   #357 (permalink)
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Nothing fancy. I made my reservoir brackets from .090" 4130
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:17 PM   #358 (permalink)
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Bump for the best thread ever! Keep them coming!

We all would rather have a mill, but eh here is another way to use a router on aluminum. I used a 1/4" 4 flute end mill bit and grinders grease. Just turn the speed down all the way and let the cutter do the job and worked great!





Oh yeah and EARMUFFS!
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Old 04-21-2011, 04:33 PM   #359 (permalink)
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JR, your's are fancy compaired to mine. I just welded some lock collers together.





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Old 04-21-2011, 06:40 PM   #360 (permalink)
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God I love this thread. However, I have a question for those who bend a bunch of tube. I'm just starting off, and what have you guys used to spread tubes in the event you bend too far, and just need to go back a few degrees?
Use a V shaped tree outside in the summer, A vise on a heavy bench in the winter, and When I'm feeling lazy I have my fat friends stretch em out...

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Old 04-21-2011, 07:05 PM   #361 (permalink)
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When ever I get a new tube die I first Cut 2 36" pieces and chuck them up in a lathe and make an index mark 6 inces from the end and bend one to a 90 and one to a 180 for templates. Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1303433968.721714.jpg
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:16 PM   #362 (permalink)
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This is my home made press I built. It started it's life as a 25 ton oil filter crusher that the garage at my place of employment threw away because they got a newer model. So I took it apart and built a frame and re wired it and it kicks ass!!!Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1303434557.590076.jpg
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This here I have got to give all the credit too my buddy Fc ( don Fc fab ) I copied his set up and it works great. I can bend up to 3/8 plate to 90 no prob. I mostly use it on 1/4 and smaller. Thicker material I take the midle tube out. Then material I keep the tube in. Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1303434415.089354.jpg
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Size:  53.7 KBName:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1303434481.689551.jpg
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:21 PM   #363 (permalink)
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These work great for holding up tube for doing cage work. They are adjustable, I want to make two more half that size for tighter spots. Another great idea I got from Fc. Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1303435088.168755.jpg
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:25 PM   #364 (permalink)
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Just a adjustable roller
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this is one of my favorite and most used tools when found tube work. I got it a harbor freight for $100 and it kicks ass!Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1303435389.481008.jpg
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Old 05-11-2011, 06:51 PM   #365 (permalink)
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Just made this stand for outside use. Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1305161399.103327.jpg
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:03 PM   #366 (permalink)
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anyone got any good tips for getting something perfectly square on a frame, when it's not on a straight portion? Like I can get it very close but i prefer exact if possible. Im recessing into the frame with some 3.5x3.5 1/4" wall tube. I only have certain fab tools at home. I drew a line but I can only get it so accurate with an angle grinder. Any tips? or should I make a jig of solid square pipe and use that?
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:45 AM   #367 (permalink)
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diamond measure off a reference point that you trust, or get to a part of the frame where the rails are parellel and measure off a T square.
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:24 AM   #368 (permalink)
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JR, your's are fancy compaired to mine. I just welded some lock collers together.





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did these come in the exact size you needed or did you have to modify the ID's? Great idea and looks great too.
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:47 PM   #369 (permalink)
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did these come in the exact size you needed or did you have to modify the ID's? Great idea and looks great too.
Thanks. I just got some that matched the OD of the shock hoops and OD of the shock revs. then welded them together. You can buy the lock collers in just about any ID you need.



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Old 05-24-2011, 12:14 PM   #370 (permalink)
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Another question for the guru's.

I recently got a set of Dimple Dies. Love em. But, I don't think they'll handle much over 1/8", or so I've read.

For gussets on suspension or link mounts, etc..., is dimpled 1/8 going to cut it, or should I forget trying to save some weight and make the gussets 1/4, which is what the brackets are made of? Or, to be a little more clear, I am making all of the link brackets out of 1/4. Is 1/8" dimpled going to be enough to brace them?
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Old 05-24-2011, 01:11 PM   #371 (permalink)
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Another question for the guru's.

I recently got a set of Dimple Dies. Love em. But, I don't think they'll handle much over 1/8", or so I've read.

For gussets on suspension or link mounts, etc..., is dimpled 1/8 going to cut it, or should I forget trying to save some weight and make the gussets 1/4, which is what the brackets are made of? Or, to be a little more clear, I am making all of the link brackets out of 1/4. Is 1/8" dimpled going to be enough to brace them?
Link boxing can be thinner. I use .120 4130 for the lower brace, .090 4130 for the top. Link tabs are .250 4130 with weld washers
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Old 05-24-2011, 02:51 PM   #372 (permalink)
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I've dimpled 1/4" takes about 90 tons
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:18 PM   #373 (permalink)
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What trick do you guys use when you use the dimple dies? I drilled a bunch of holes and after I was done with the die the sheet metal (.120) ended up in a U shape. I have herd of just flipping the dies around and giving it a slight press, but that just made the dimples less dimpled. I'm using a hand pump 20 ton bottle jack, and pumping till I can't with a 12" bar. I'm think that I need to reinforce my press if I need to add more pressure. Do the dies need to press after its dimpled to flatten the rest of the metal? Pics
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:19 PM   #374 (permalink)
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I had to hammer the fuck out of the back side on my bench to get it back to flat.
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:22 PM   #375 (permalink)
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Pretty common for the metal to deflect when using Dimple Dies.
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