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Old 06-19-2017, 02:11 PM   #2876 (permalink)
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What balljoints does everyone recommend for the '05 and newer axles? Moog, Spicer, Motorcraft, etc.?
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Old 06-19-2017, 03:13 PM   #2877 (permalink)
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Dang I just noticed that, I'm hoping mine will clear with some cutting on the diff cover
I had to cut mine a lot to fit the stock tierod. (Stock location) Also had to countersink the "fill" plug. But I would think a high steer would be no problem.

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Old 06-19-2017, 03:47 PM   #2878 (permalink)
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I put Spicer ball joints in both of mine 60s. I install moog on a daily basis at work, haven't been to impressed.
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Old 06-19-2017, 06:29 PM   #2879 (permalink)
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Dang I just noticed that, I'm hoping mine will clear with some cutting on the diff cover
It barely clears the fab9 housing. There's a lot of ackerman and 45 of steering, so that tie rod moves quite a bit front to back and up/down.
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Old 06-20-2017, 09:39 AM   #2880 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
I put Spicer ball joints in both of mine 60s. I install moog on a daily basis at work, haven't been to impressed.
Perfect. I keep hearing the same thing about the Moog's, but wanted to make sure.

Thank you,

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Old 06-20-2017, 10:41 AM   #2881 (permalink)
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I needed some new ball joints for my tow pig (2010 Cummins), went with aam on that vs moog as well.
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:49 PM   #2882 (permalink)
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Can the stock tierod be flipped to the top of the knuckles if I was to get passenger high steer arm for the draglink? I bent my tierod on my last trip so it's time for a make over. I don't think I can clear a full high steer setup with the location of my steering box.
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:16 AM   #2883 (permalink)
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Can the stock tierod be flipped to the top of the knuckles if I was to get passenger high steer arm for the draglink? I bent my tierod on my last trip so it's time for a make over. I don't think I can clear a full high steer setup with the location of my steering box.
I believe in this thread, there was a guy that got the "off set" TREs from Ruffstuff and did what you are talking about. The stock TRE on the pax side has a funky bolt that will be difficult to flip.
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Last edited by waterhorse; 07-17-2017 at 06:17 AM.
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:50 AM   #2884 (permalink)
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https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles...r-knuckle.html

I found this thread from Reid saying they have these bolts to allow the tierod to be flipped on top but I don't know how that would work. I assume you would have to ream the drivers side knuckle to fit the taper of the passenger side tierod end and use that bolt with the taper coming from the bottom. On the passenger side maybe the drivers side tierod end has the same taper and just drops in??? I'm going to try and pull it apart this weekend and see what it looks like. Anyone know what taper reamer I would need to fit the passenger side bolt through tierod end?

I would like to use the factory super duty parts since they are so beefy and easy to find.
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Last edited by Baron85; 07-17-2017 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 07-17-2017, 12:21 PM   #2885 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Baron85 View Post
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles...r-knuckle.html

I found this thread from Reid saying they have these bolts to allow the tierod to be flipped on top but I don't know how that would work. I assume you would have to ream the drivers side knuckle to fit the taper of the passenger side tierod end and use that bolt with the taper coming from the bottom. On the passenger side maybe the drivers side tierod end has the same taper and just drops in??? I'm going to try and pull it apart this weekend and see what it looks like. Anyone know what taper reamer I would need to fit the passenger side bolt through tierod end?

I would like to use the factory super duty parts since they are so beefy and easy to find.
I think those bolts are to mount rodends. The stock TREs have the bolts as part of it. So there's no way to use them with a TRE.
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Old 07-17-2017, 02:50 PM   #2886 (permalink)
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I think those bolts are to mount rodends. The stock TREs have the bolts as part of it. So there's no way to use them with a TRE.

I'm pretty sure the factory passenger side has a hole through it and uses a long shank with taper on the draglink to go through it and hold it on. The driver side is a standard style joint. I figured the special bolt was to allow it to be flipped and bolted on one side and maybe the factory taper on the passenger side knuckle would fit the taper of the drivers side tierod end??? I will pull it apart this weekend and see.
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:01 PM   #2887 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure the factory passenger side has a hole through it and uses a long shank with taper on the draglink to go through it and hold it on. The driver side is a standard style joint. I figured the special bolt was to allow it to be flipped and bolted on one side and maybe the factory taper on the passenger side knuckle would fit the taper of the drivers side tierod end??? I will pull it apart this weekend and see.
Yes, you are correct. My memory is off. I just looked and the draglink TRE has the long stud that goes through the knuckle and tierod. I don't understand how you use the stock driver's side on the pax side. (Unless your going full hydro or high steer)
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:04 PM   #2888 (permalink)
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Yes, you are correct. My memory is off. I just looked and the draglink TRE has the long stud that goes through the knuckle and tierod. I don't understand how you use the stock driver's side on the pax side. (Unless your going full hydro or high steer)

I'm planning on a high steer arm for the passenger side to move the drag link onto. I would like to do both sides and move the tierod up higher as well but that would involve moving the trac bar and steering box as well as modifying the frame. At this time I'm not interested in doing that much work if I can flip the tierod on top of the knuckles I will be happy.
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Old 08-03-2017, 06:10 PM   #2889 (permalink)
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Did a lot of searching on this thread and around the internet and couldnt find this answer.

Setting up my pinion with a crush sleeve and all the specs for the I see are for Dana's with the shims and without the seal installed. Some posts say the seal adds 10 inch lbs, some say only 2-4 inch lbs.

Is there a specific range for these crush sleeve Dana 60's with the seal installed? Anyone have a range in inch lbs?
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Old 08-04-2017, 04:42 AM   #2890 (permalink)
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Did a lot of searching on this thread and around the internet and couldnt find this answer.

Setting up my pinion with a crush sleeve and all the specs for the I see are for Dana's with the shims and without the seal installed. Some posts say the seal adds 10 inch lbs, some say only 2-4 inch lbs.

Is there a specific range for these crush sleeve Dana 60's with the seal installed? Anyone have a range in inch lbs?
a crush sleeve eliminator is cheap. the crush sleeve is the weak point of the sterling.
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Old 08-04-2017, 05:49 AM   #2891 (permalink)
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a crush sleeve eliminator is cheap. the crush sleeve is the weak point of the sterling.
thanks, but Id rather just use what I already have in hand rather than go searching for new parts.. Im all ready for assembly and only need that spec to complete the setup.
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Old 08-06-2017, 06:14 PM   #2892 (permalink)
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Bump, I know leaf springs are from the 80s but some of us still use them. I just picked up an 02 that I'm using with leaf springs. How are you guys running the u bolts through the top, what size U bolts and what U bolt plates?
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Old 08-06-2017, 07:55 PM   #2893 (permalink)
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How does that work on the drivers side? I can understand the passanger side. not picturing the drivers.
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:29 AM   #2894 (permalink)
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Seen this on FB yesterday for '05+ C's and knuckles









Said $250 for a pair. Guys name is Nick Barna that is making them.
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Old 08-07-2017, 09:00 AM   #2895 (permalink)
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How does that work on the drivers side? I can understand the passanger side. not picturing the drivers.
Google HP60 u bolt and pics will come up.

Either notch the casting or drill a hole in it and contour it a bit for a big u bolt.

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Old 08-08-2017, 05:18 AM   #2896 (permalink)
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Seen this on FB yesterday for '05+ C's and knuckles









Said $250 for a pair. Guys name is Nick Barna that is making them.



Got links????
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Old 08-08-2017, 06:44 AM   #2897 (permalink)
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Seen this on FB yesterday for '05+ C's and knuckles



Said $250 for a pair. Guys name is Nick Barna that is making them.
What is he claiming the advantages are?
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Old 08-08-2017, 06:48 AM   #2898 (permalink)
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What is he claiming the advantages are?
I'd say it would make the knuckle easier to remove. Plus the upper balljoints are the ones that get loose first.

And it's more spidertrax-y
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:53 AM   #2899 (permalink)
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What is he claiming the advantages are?
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Got links????
https://www.facebook.com/groups/rock...71428752&rt=11

This is his for sale thread. Conversation is in there if you can see it. If not, let me know and I'll copy and paste some stuff.
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:51 AM   #2900 (permalink)
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https://www.facebook.com/groups/rock...71428752&rt=11

This is his for sale thread. Conversation is in there if you can see it. If not, let me know and I'll copy and paste some stuff.
It says I'm not part of the audience that the conversation was shared with ...
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