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Old 10-28-2017, 09:25 PM   #3051 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AgitatedPancake View Post
In the FB group it was brought up that starting around 2010 the regular F250/F350 axles might have got 1550 joints with the same length inners and stubs as the 2005+ 1480 jointed shafts. I can't confirm it, but if true those might be a bolt in and run swap.
Has anyone found an examples or other confirmation of the 2010 and up f250/350 getting 1550 joints? I am currently looking at an axle out of a 2012 Quigley van. It's BMO number list it as being the same as a 2011 f250 with 4.10 gears and 10in ring but i did not see anything about joint size.
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Old 10-29-2017, 09:32 AM   #3052 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by es805815 View Post
Has anyone found an examples or other confirmation of the 2010 and up f250/350 getting 1550 joints? I am currently looking at an axle out of a 2012 Quigley van. It's BMO number list it as being the same as a 2011 f250 with 4.10 gears and 10in ring but i did not see anything about joint size.
There are mulitple posts with part numbers listed. I bought a set and took pics and posted part numbers.


Also, anecdotally, co worker bought a 15 F350. It's got 1550 shafts stock. And its not a wide body/big knuckle version, just a regular 250/350 axle.


I think it may be a crap shoot on earlyish run axles getting 1550s, especially something potentially weird like a converted van axle.

Last edited by eat.sleep.wheel; 10-29-2017 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 10-29-2017, 12:57 PM   #3053 (permalink)
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Old 10-30-2017, 05:38 AM   #3054 (permalink)
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i've been researching this thread for about a year now with no definitive answer, but has anyone found an off the shelf rotor w 8x6.5 lug pattern and will work dimensionally on the hub?

Another question, some guy on the trail blamed his locker not working on his 99-04 60 because of the ABS knuckles, and them not being hooked up. This confused me, as i was under the impression that they don't do anything if you don't have them hooked up?

I ordered the JHF knuckle kit, is there anything i need to watch out for when doing this kit amd this fucking abs port?


thanks, and sorry if this has been answered somewhere. I've read this thread throughout back in december and now i only skim / search it.

Did anyone ever finish making this thread into a "bible"?
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Old 10-30-2017, 05:59 AM   #3055 (permalink)
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Another question, some guy on the trail blamed his locker not working on his 99-04 60 because of the ABS knuckles, and them not being hooked up. This confused me, as i was under the impression that they don't do anything if you don't have them hooked up?
That seems wrong, intuitively. They should not do anything at all if unhooked, except potentially throw a light in a dash or goof up traction control.
If someone had traction control instead of a locker, that would happen, or if they had a bias based locker like a gov-bomb that was dependent on the traction control to activate the brake for initial lock up. That said, I do not think either applies here.

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Did anyone ever finish making this thread into a "bible"?
That is in process. Most of the people who are movers and shakers around here on the board are also movers and shakers in the real world. We have to be patient with them and allow them the time they need to help us lesser mortals.
That said, there is also a lot of work sifting through bad and duplicate information because people are not looking hard enough for themselves. I am not blaming anyone in particular here, this is just a problem with people on forums everywhere.
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Last edited by Lincolnman; 10-30-2017 at 06:05 AM. Reason: Clarification.
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Old 10-30-2017, 09:14 AM   #3056 (permalink)
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Yeah, I gave up on the bible. And yes, one reason was because there is so much wrong info that it's hard to separate from the good info. Also, some of it just isn't known with 100% certainty so there are posts stating it as fact with contradictory posts that never got resolved.

There is no 8x6.5 rotor that is bolt-on and will work with the stock caliper. Literally every setup I've seen was custom in some way. Even the ones where people claim they are bolt-on are customized in some way. There are few things on this forum that I am willing to state as fact anymore because anythign you do someone will disagree with. But I am 100% certain that the bolt-on 8x6.5 rotor conversion without at least a small amount of customization does not exist.

People just need to get used to 8x170. Life would be so much easier if they did. Chevy 60's are dead. SD60's are the new Chevy 60. 8x170 is the new standard.
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Old 10-30-2017, 09:28 AM   #3057 (permalink)
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People just need to get used to 8x170. Life would be so much easier if they did. Chevy 60's are dead. SD60's are the new Chevy 60. 8x170 is the new standard.
^Yup. And a perfect time to let 15/16/16.5 die and upgrade to 17" which is the new standard in off road tires. Not to mention, Sterling 10.5's are really no slouch of an axle for the majority of people, so even the 14 bolt argument is dying... Just my $0.02.
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Old 10-30-2017, 03:36 PM   #3058 (permalink)
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^Yup. And a perfect time to let 15/16/16.5 die and upgrade to 17" which is the new standard in off road tires. Not to mention, Sterling 10.5's are really no slouch of an axle for the majority of people, so even the 14 bolt argument is dying... Just my $0.02.
Agreed. If the Sterling got as much aftermarket support as the 14b, it'd be a fine axle - but it's not there (yet).

With that said, running adapters on a 14b to get it back to 8x170 isn't a big deal, nor that expensive. Most of the time the D60 is wider than the 14b anyway, so it's a perfect opportunity to match track width of each (if you're going after that).
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Old 10-30-2017, 05:48 PM   #3059 (permalink)
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For the record, I bought a set of stock rotors and opened the holes up to .750 easily in the drill press and they slid right on to my 8x6.5 UB's. You never have to worry with having the rotor oriented correctly this way (the way I see it), I know I'm not breaking any new ground here.
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Last edited by twoslo4five0; 10-30-2017 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 10-30-2017, 06:05 PM   #3060 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RMKrawler View Post
i've been researching this thread for about a year now with no definitive answer, but has anyone found an off the shelf rotor w 8x6.5 lug pattern and will work dimensionally on the hub?

Another question, some guy on the trail blamed his locker not working on his 99-04 60 because of the ABS knuckles, and them not being hooked up. This confused me, as i was under the impression that they don't do anything if you don't have them hooked up?

I ordered the JHF knuckle kit, is there anything i need to watch out for when doing this kit amd this fucking abs port?


thanks, and sorry if this has been answered somewhere. I've read this thread throughout back in december and now i only skim / search it.

Did anyone ever finish making this thread into a "bible"?
I just did JHF kits on 2 sets of knuckles for my front and rear steer buggy build. My axles are both 99-04 and both kits are for full hydro. They come with decent directions with pictures and weld up pretty nice. As for the abs port with the kit you grind the knuckle smooth where the port is and plate is welded over the hole. I don't have any good pics of after grinding and before welding but here are the few I have.
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Old 10-30-2017, 06:16 PM   #3061 (permalink)
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For the record, I bought a set of stock rotors and opened the holes up to .750 easily in the drill press and they slid right on to my 8x6.5 UB's. You never have to worry with having the rotor oriented correctly this way (the way I see it), I know I'm not breaking any new ground here.
That's my plan as well.
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Old 11-02-2017, 01:36 PM   #3062 (permalink)
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Has anyone found an examples or other confirmation of the 2010 and up f250/350 getting 1550 joints? I am currently looking at an axle out of a 2012 Quigley van. It's BMO number list it as being the same as a 2011 f250 with 4.10 gears and 10in ring but i did not see anything about joint size.
Did u-joints on a friend's 2011 F250 quad cab diesel with lots of bells and whistles. Nothing special about the u-joints.
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Old 11-02-2017, 01:38 PM   #3063 (permalink)
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Newb.

Building a smaller/lighter buggy. Picked up an 04 D60 (yes a 60) and came across this thread searching for info. Read enough to make my head hurt.

Being a lighter buggy, on 40's, and already having a 04 60, is it worth it to dump and get an 05 plus? Bolt patterns etc don't bother me. With a 35 spline upgrade what am I gaining by going 05+? I wheel with a light foot as well.
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Old 11-02-2017, 02:58 PM   #3064 (permalink)
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Newb.

Building a smaller/lighter buggy. Picked up an 04 D60 (yes a 60) and came across this thread searching for info. Read enough to make my head hurt.

Being a lighter buggy, on 40's, and already having a 04 60, is it worth it to dump and get an 05 plus? Bolt patterns etc don't bother me. With a 35 spline upgrade what am I gaining by going 05+? I wheel with a light foot as well.
99-04 is not a bad axle in my opinion. I built mine a while back when the 05+ stuff was still gaining traction. I have a 60 front and a rear steer sterling/60 using the same 99-04 parts. Been on 42's for a year or so now. Minimal carnage so far on a heavy-ish 4600 lb rig.
That said, if i had to do it all from scratch i would do 05 up stuff since the aftermarket is there.
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Old 11-02-2017, 09:37 PM   #3065 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TXwillys View Post
Newb.

Building a smaller/lighter buggy. Picked up an 04 D60 (yes a 60) and came across this thread searching for info. Read enough to make my head hurt.

Being a lighter buggy, on 40's, and already having a 04 60, is it worth it to dump and get an 05 plus? Bolt patterns etc don't bother me. With a 35 spline upgrade what am I gaining by going 05+? I wheel with a light foot as well.
I think the 05 and up stuff being so cheap and already 35 spline this makes it a no brainer. Sell the 04 axle to fund the other axle. The exception to this rule in my opinion is you want to run 5 or 6 lug wheels.
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Old 11-03-2017, 05:46 AM   #3066 (permalink)
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Or width. The 05+ are 72" WMS vs 69" for the earlier axles
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:18 AM   #3067 (permalink)
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4"s off the pass side on 05+ to drop the wms down, run a GM long side d60 inner.
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:32 AM   #3068 (permalink)
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4"s off the pass side on 05+ to drop the wms down, run a GM long side d60 inner.
What size ujoint is in the Chevy 60 axle?
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:38 AM   #3069 (permalink)
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What size ujoint is in the Chevy 60 axle?
1480.
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Old 11-03-2017, 10:58 AM   #3070 (permalink)
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I ran a yukon Chevy inner till I saved up and bought rcvs
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Old 11-15-2017, 04:35 PM   #3071 (permalink)
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Ballistic Fab has a new shave kit for the 10.5 coming out soon, as well as a full length truss. They were also the first to have the low profile cover for the 60, although Motobuilt and Ruffstuff have one now.

Ruffstuff also has some new radius arm brackets and coilover mounts that use the factory spring bucket location.
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Old 11-16-2017, 08:16 AM   #3072 (permalink)
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Or width. The 05+ are 72" WMS vs 69" for the earlier axles
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Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
4"s off the pass side on 05+ to drop the wms down, run a GM long side d60 inner.
Are there other STOCK length combinations that would shorten up either the 05+ or 00-04 axles? on the long side obviously
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Old 11-16-2017, 08:36 AM   #3073 (permalink)
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Are there other STOCK length combinations that would shorten up either the 05+ or 00-04 axles? on the long side obviously
I would assume any of the 35 spline 1480 style inner shafts would work in whatever combination you wanted, as long as you retained the appropriate style 1480 stub...but I could be wrong.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...1967-02-a.html
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Old 11-16-2017, 08:49 AM   #3074 (permalink)
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I would assume any of the 35 spline 1480 style inner shafts would work in whatever combination you wanted, as long as you retained the appropriate style 1480 stub...but I could be wrong.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...1967-02-a.html
Thanks for the chart....basically that is the shortest other than a 78-79ford long side which is 34.55" vs GM 35.08" .
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:44 PM   #3075 (permalink)
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I'm putting together one of these with a 78/79 shaft. It was a toss up between that and the chevy, but a local shop had the ford shaft in stock.
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