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Old 04-01-2019, 07:58 AM   #3851 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wellstig1 View Post
Only 17 and up if you want a easy swap. Any 05+ will technically bolt in, but there is a difference in tone ring count on the 05-11. The brakes got bigger in 13, I'm not sure if the calipers are the same in 17+ since the knuckles changed again. The dana 60 center section is totally redesigned and is a called short reverse 60 now, I believe the pinion is shorter and the stock yoke is now 1410.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 04-01-2019, 08:11 AM   #3852 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
Yep, and your second sentence also explains why the upper portion of the 05+ is so much beefier than the KP inner-c - the KP inner C carries all of the vehicle weight on the lower section of the inner-c. The upper kingpin is only there for alignment.

Anywho, this is mostly just a PSA / FYI for those reading. Don't go throwing your Kingpin axles in the scrap bin just because of the inner-C size

Other reasons... maybe
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Originally Posted by 06silverback View Post
I did read it all. If my kit was for the AAM axles you’d have a valid argument. You can not make an apples-to-apples comparison of upper balljoints even if they’re the same size when the knuckles are different. Different spacing, KPI, ect isn’t the same. The bouncers pound in these things every weekend without failure, so the proof to strength is in the results....think what you’d like I guess.

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I didn’t click on the link.

You asked me, I answered you. It’s just a PSA, FYI. Purely opinion. It worked for you and your customers, what’s there to argue?
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Old 04-01-2019, 05:29 PM   #3853 (permalink)
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@06silverback

Is there a link or something to your product somewhere so that we don't have to dive through the 155+ pages of this thread to get it?

If so, maybe put it in your sig for easy reference?
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Old 04-01-2019, 06:36 PM   #3854 (permalink)
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@06silverback

Is there a link or something to your product somewhere so that we don't have to dive through the 155+ pages of this thread to get it?

If so, maybe put it in your sig for easy reference?

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/44327950-post25.html
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Old 04-02-2019, 05:38 AM   #3855 (permalink)
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Just seeing that, thanks for giving the link. The 2nd link was my first stab at that design and have refined the kits a lot since then. I’m in the vendor section, and on FB under American Iron Offroad.

I’m working on an article for CRAWL magazine that covers the installation process, customer service, and reviews from guys using the kits. The rig featured will be from Groundbreaker Offroad out of Oregon.
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Old 04-04-2019, 09:57 AM   #3856 (permalink)
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Sorry, I’m trying to work through reading all 380+ pages but wanted to ask a quick question. Talked with a guy at EcoKrawl who builds super 60s for Toyota’s and Jeep’s, but stated that the 1550 U-Joint from an f450 would work on the axle shafts from the f350.

I know the f450 shafts are longer in length but are there any other differences? I’m building a set of 07 f350 axles for my JKU and determining whether to get Yukon’s 4340 super joints vs the 1550 (if I was told correctly).
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Old 04-04-2019, 12:24 PM   #3857 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 02sportflex View Post
Sorry, I’m trying to work through reading all 380+ pages but wanted to ask a quick question. Talked with a guy at EcoKrawl who builds super 60s for Toyota’s and Jeep’s, but stated that the 1550 U-Joint from an f450 would work on the axle shafts from the f350.

I know the f450 shafts are longer in length but are there any other differences? I’m building a set of 07 f350 axles for my JKU and determining whether to get Yukon’s 4340 super joints vs the 1550 (if I was told correctly).
If I'm understanding your question correctly, the answer is no. To use the 1550 joints, you must have shafts with 1550 yokes. The stock F-350 shafts use 1480 sized yokes unless you have a newer (2016 & newer I think) axle housing which would already have the 1550 shafts and joints. If your rig has the 1480 shafts, you will need new shafts to run the 1550 joints. At that point, it is best to buy the complete 1550 shaft assemblies with the Ford part #'s (DANA SPICER 10013781 driver, & DANA SPICER 10013778 passenger) rather than buy them in pieces. You must buy them for a 250/350 axle though, because the 450 shafts are different lengths from the standard 250/350 shafts and will not work with the 250/350 housings and unit bearings. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-04-2019, 04:46 PM   #3858 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02sportflex View Post
Sorry, I’m trying to work through reading all 380+ pages but wanted to ask a quick question. Talked with a guy at EcoKrawl who builds super 60s for Toyota’s and Jeep’s, but stated that the 1550 U-Joint from an f450 would work on the axle shafts from the f350.

I know the f450 shafts are longer in length but are there any other differences? I’m building a set of 07 f350 axles for my JKU and determining whether to get Yukon’s 4340 super joints vs the 1550 (if I was told correctly).
If I'm understanding your question correctly, the answer is no. To use the 1550 joints, you must have shafts with 1550 yokes. The stock F-350 shafts use 1480 sized yokes unless you have a newer (2016 & newer I think) axle housing which would already have the 1550 shafts and joints. If your rig has the 1480 shafts, you will need new shafts to run the 1550 joints. At that point, it is best to buy the complete 1550 shaft assemblies with the Ford part #'s (DANA SPICER 10013781 driver, & DANA SPICER 10013778 passenger) rather than buy them in pieces. You must buy them for a 250/350 axle though, because the 450 shafts are different lengths from the standard 250/350 shafts and will not work with the 250/350 housings and unit bearings. Hope this helps.
Yep, this is exactly the info I was looking for. So no other upgrades are needed to run the newer ford shafts? Is there an advantage to using the Yukon 4340 super shaft kit vs upgrading to the 16-up 1550 shafts/U-Joint (besides saving almost $300)?
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Old 04-05-2019, 09:30 AM   #3859 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 02sportflex View Post
Yep, this is exactly the info I was looking for. So no other upgrades are needed to run the newer ford shafts? Is there an advantage to using the Yukon 4340 super shaft kit vs upgrading to the 16-up 1550 shafts/U-Joint (besides saving almost $300)?
Unless your going to beat them like a green Saturn driving red head that owes you money, no.
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Old 04-05-2019, 09:50 AM   #3860 (permalink)
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I dont think anyone knows the stock 1550 shaft strength yet.
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Old 04-13-2019, 03:44 AM   #3861 (permalink)
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Question for the 05+ Superduty gurus. Is there a trick to remove the axle shafts? The dust seal at the end of the tube must be press fit and it's a serious pain to get these out.

BTW, here is a link to my build in hardcore.



https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/#/topics/2679076

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Old 04-13-2019, 07:33 AM   #3862 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Makers_Mark View Post
Question for the 05+ Superduty gurus. Is there a trick to remove the axle shafts? The dust seal at the end of the tube must be press fit and it's a serious pain to get these out.

BTW, here is a link to my build in hardcore.



https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/#/topics/2679076?page=2

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The dust seal doesn't hold the shaft in. It was flimsy anyways. If you can't pull the shaft, it must be hanging up somehow in the diff.

Your link just takes me to Pirate home page.
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Old 04-13-2019, 07:50 AM   #3863 (permalink)
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The dust seal doesn't hold the shaft in. It was flimsy anyways. If you can't pull the shaft, it must be hanging up somehow in the diff.



Your link just takes me to Pirate home page.
I got it. Just had to put more ass behind it.



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Old 04-18-2019, 02:44 PM   #3864 (permalink)
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So then why don't you have full circle snap rings installed?
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Old 04-23-2019, 07:08 AM   #3865 (permalink)
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I hate to post this because I know the info is in here but search is not working for me
Does any one have the Ford part numbers for the 1410 drive shaft parts?
Like the slips and splines
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Old 04-23-2019, 06:04 PM   #3866 (permalink)
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I hate to post this because I know the info is in here but search is not working for me
Does any one have the Ford part numbers for the 1410 drive shaft parts?
Like the slips and splines
female slip
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p11...spline_7..html

male splines
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p11...ll_tubing.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by rockyota83 View Post
the dodge 1410 cv can do 30 degrees too not only 20 like that thread says

https://neapco.mycarparts.net/produc...pco-N924141HAG
https://neapco.mycarparts.net/produc...pco-N924143HAG ford thicker wall tubing
https://neapco.mycarparts.net/produc...pco-N924142HAG ford
https://neapco.mycarparts.net/products/Neapco-N924141G the dodge 20 degree



handy link
https://www.neapcocomponents.com/ima...1366_4x4qr.pdf

if you want to buy it
https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/ne...cv-head-asmbl/

fwiw its not just a dodge part, its also a ford

theres 4 different 1410 cv joints
N924141G 20 degrees 3.12 pilot diameter dodge
N924141HAG 30 degrees 3.12 pilot diameter dodge
N924142HAG 30 degrees 2.68 pilot diameter ford
N924143HAG 30 degrees 2.68 pilot diameter ford

all have a 4.25 bolt pattern size
here is where you can get all the info
https://www.neapcocomponents.com/ima...1366_4x4qr.pdf

just google the part number for a different seller
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Old 04-28-2019, 12:31 PM   #3867 (permalink)
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Might have missed it, but has anyone found a way to run 5x5.5 wheels on the 05+ unit bearings. Is there enough flange to re drill, or are some 2 piece 2" thick adapters the only option?
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Old 04-28-2019, 02:32 PM   #3868 (permalink)
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Might have missed it, but has anyone found a way to run 5x5.5 wheels on the 05+ unit bearings. Is there enough flange to re drill, or are some 2 piece 2" thick adapters the only option?
The hub bore is 5 inches, so there is no room to drill the flange, the only option is to run adapters. At that point you may as well just get new wheels.
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Old 04-28-2019, 03:39 PM   #3869 (permalink)
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The hub bore is 5 inches, so there is no room to drill the flange, the only option is to run adapters. At that point you may as well just get new wheels.
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Might have missed it, but has anyone found a way to run 5x5.5 wheels on the 05+ unit bearings. Is there enough flange to re drill, or are some 2 piece 2" thick adapters the only option?
If your stuck on this bolt pattern I think this is the only reason to run 99-04 stuff.
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Old 04-28-2019, 05:59 PM   #3870 (permalink)
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5 lug 99-04 using the currie brake kit

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Old 04-28-2019, 06:47 PM   #3871 (permalink)
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are 3 extra lug studs and nuts really that much more weight?
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Old 04-28-2019, 07:47 PM   #3872 (permalink)
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are 3 extra lug studs and nuts really that much more weight?
Weight saving probably comes more from 5-lug rotors and caliper vs 8-lug ones.
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Old 04-28-2019, 08:09 PM   #3873 (permalink)
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reducing weight on the rotors mean he can add more water in the tires
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Old 04-29-2019, 03:01 AM   #3874 (permalink)
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Has anyone redrilled an 05+ to 6x6.5? Trophy truck pattern, not 5.5 like Chevy/Toyota trucks.
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Old 04-29-2019, 04:47 AM   #3875 (permalink)
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The hub bore is 5 inches, so there is no room to drill the flange, the only option is to run adapters. At that point you may as well just get new wheels.
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If your stuck on this bolt pattern I think this is the only reason to run 99-04 stuff.
Thanks guys. That's what I had thought, just making sure. Before perusing the 99-04 Spidertrax/Trail Gear stuff.

Reasoning for the 5x5.5 bolt pattern is that I have 2 sets of beadlocks and buying 10 new wheels is a hard pill to swallow.

And yes it is much cheaper to get light weight brakes with the smaller bolt pattern.
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