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Old 01-31-2020, 06:59 AM   #4251 (permalink)
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They're alright. Depends on your setup.
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Old 01-31-2020, 08:53 AM   #4252 (permalink)
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Same axle I run.
Removing the bells is actually pretty easy if you wedge a couple zip ties between the bell and the boot.



Damn! 3/4" bolts in your rod ends? What rod ends are you using? Nice axle!
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Old 01-31-2020, 10:14 AM   #4253 (permalink)
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1" bolts in 1.25" heims
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Old 01-31-2020, 01:29 PM   #4254 (permalink)
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They're alright. Depends on your setup.

Where would you draw the line?
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Old 01-31-2020, 03:59 PM   #4255 (permalink)
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Soo how good are the '05+ stock lockouts? Prioritizing upgrades, planning to do 1550 shafts and keep the 1480 as spares. Not sure drive flanges are in this years budget....or would that be a better investment with stock shafts?
I've h ad pretty good luck with them in my jeep. Grizzly locker, rcvs, 4ds, lq9, 4 spd atlas, 5500+lb rig. Wheeling from Pennsylvania to Utah to Ontario. I get just over a season out of them. I've broke 3 in 3 years. 1 broke and I lost function from it. The last two I didn't know broke until I removed them go service bent ball joints, they still functioned.

Last edited by cheapthrillb2; 01-31-2020 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 01-31-2020, 08:13 PM   #4256 (permalink)
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I've h ad pretty good luck with them in my jeep. Grizzly locker, rcvs, 4ds, lq9, 4 spd atlas, 5500+lb rig. Wheeling from Pennsylvania to Utah to Ontario. I get just over a season out of them. I've broke 3 in 3 years. 1 broke and I lost function from it. The last two I didn't know broke until I removed them go service bent ball joints, they still functioned.
what breaks? clutch gear? pics?
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Old 02-01-2020, 05:34 AM   #4257 (permalink)
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... I have no idea what's in the kit ... The kit is designed for severe duty and is non warrantable. The knuckle seal shield kit GC3Z-54024A38-A ...
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Instead of the regular axle seals, or in addition?
They are for sale several places online, it looks like $110-$120, some places listed as $65 (per side, maybe?).

This is the image I found - I do not know if that helps anyone visualize how it fits. They are referring to it as a "splash shield".

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Last edited by Lincolnman; 02-01-2020 at 05:35 AM. Reason: Typo.
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Old 02-01-2020, 05:56 AM   #4258 (permalink)
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what breaks? clutch gear? pics?
All mine have been the female splines of the lockout that go over the stub, and the out gears that engage the bearing.

https://flic.kr/p/29why4p
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Old 02-01-2020, 08:04 AM   #4259 (permalink)
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In your experience does that failure take out other items or just itself?
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Old 02-01-2020, 03:32 PM   #4260 (permalink)
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what breaks? clutch gear? pics?
All mine have been the female splines of the lockout that go over the stub, and the out gears that engage the bearing.

https://flic.kr/p/29why4p
RCV makes these in a 300m replacement now. I have the warns on mine and have yet to break them, there's are chromoly.
https://www.rcvperformance.com/rcv-d...king-hubs.html

Last edited by wellstig1; 02-01-2020 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 02-01-2020, 03:47 PM   #4261 (permalink)
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In your experience does that failure take out other items or just itself?
Just itself. The breaks are actually pretty well contained within the lockout itself.
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Old 02-01-2020, 04:04 PM   #4262 (permalink)
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RCV makes these in a 300m replacement now. I have the warns on mine and have yet to break them, there's are chromoly.
https://www.rcvperformance.com/rcv-d...king-hubs.html
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Old 02-01-2020, 04:21 PM   #4263 (permalink)
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RCV makes these in a 300m replacement now. I have the warns on mine and have yet to break them, there's are chromoly.
https://www.rcvperformance.com/rcv-d...king-hubs.html
Interesting, I wasn't aware these were made. Been awhile since I researched lockouts for these since I have gone so long between breaks.
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Old 02-01-2020, 10:44 PM   #4264 (permalink)
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I have a pair of warn premiums, as well as a pair of rcv inner gears. Would it be worth while of swapping in the rcv? Or just carry as spares?
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Old 02-03-2020, 05:57 PM   #4265 (permalink)
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I just discovered the pinion nut backed off on my '11 SuperDuty Super 60. Only noticed 'cause I could wiggle the yoke a bit.

If I snug the nut the play goes away....but being that these are crush sleeve stock, what can I get away with? I mean can I re-torque the pinion nut to a certain lb/ft and call it good? Should I just aim for gutentight by hand?

I'd rather not yank the carrier to check pinion bearing preload.... UNLESS can I get away with checking preload with in the lash between pinion and ring gear?

I wasn't anticipating tearing the whole axle down...
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Old 02-03-2020, 05:59 PM   #4266 (permalink)
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I just discovered the pinion nut backed off on my '11 SuperDuty Super 60. Only noticed 'cause I could wiggle the yoke a bit.

If I snug the nut the play goes away....but being that these are crush sleeve stock, what can I get away with? I mean can I re-torque the pinion nut to a certain lb/ft and call it good? Should I just aim for gutentight by hand?

I'd rather not yank the carrier to check pinion bearing preload.... UNLESS can I get away with checking preload with in the lash between pinion and ring gear?

I wasn't anticipating tearing the whole axle down...
Pull the sleeve, stick it in a mic and then install a spacer and shim stack of that height.
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Old 02-03-2020, 06:14 PM   #4267 (permalink)
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rattle it tight enough to get good bearing preload, then stake the nut

standard procedure for doing a pinion seal is to reuse the same crush sleeve
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Old 02-06-2020, 06:26 PM   #4268 (permalink)
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This got me thinking I should replace the pinion seal on my '11.

Parts listings suggest the old school 60 seal of 42449 fits but the latest seal appears to be a 2009802.

I already have a 42449 sitting here from an old 60 install kit . Is there a compelling reason to order a 2009802?
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Old 02-12-2020, 11:25 AM   #4269 (permalink)
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Dumb question, did some searching probably not enough to really find what I need. Im setting up my new 06 SD60 axle,1550 shafts, full hydro, motobilt full hydro truss, four wheel supply high steer arms, psc 2.5x8 ram. Whats the best way to measure for my steering links? I dont have the stock tie rod so I really have no ideal to tell when my toe in/ toe out is centered.
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Old 02-12-2020, 11:43 AM   #4270 (permalink)
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Dumb question, did some searching probably not enough to really find what I need. Im setting up my new 06 SD60 axle,1550 shafts, full hydro, motobilt full hydro truss, four wheel supply high steer arms, psc 2.5x8 ram. Whats the best way to measure for my steering links? I dont have the stock tie rod so I really have no ideal to tell when my toe in/ toe out is centered.
yank the caliper....measure to the front of the rotor and the back of the rotor along the axle.
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Old 02-12-2020, 11:44 AM   #4271 (permalink)
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Sometimes a two foot level is not handy, but usually there's some ground around.
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Things are moving to fast for waterhorse.
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Old 02-12-2020, 01:45 PM   #4272 (permalink)
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Wow, I thought way to hard about that.
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Old 02-12-2020, 02:02 PM   #4273 (permalink)
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I have lay out straight edges, but really, anything straight clamped to the disc works well.
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Sometimes a two foot level is not handy, but usually there's some ground around.
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Things are moving to fast for waterhorse.
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Old 02-13-2020, 06:43 AM   #4274 (permalink)
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I have lay out straight edges, but really, anything straight clamped to the disc works well.
this....I should have added that to my post earlier
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Old 02-13-2020, 07:01 AM   #4275 (permalink)
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I have lay out straight edges, but really, anything straight clamped to the disc works well.
Yea, you don't even have to remove the wheels. You can go from the edges. The only issue is getting around the tire bulge. I've done it with two lazors. Space them off the wheel edges pointing front. Then measure the spots on a piece of plywood 3' out and 6' out.
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