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Old 05-27-2012, 12:17 PM   #76 (permalink)
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I need to put a limit strap on it, in the front it seems like it loads up and bounces off when you are climbing.
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:22 AM   #77 (permalink)
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gunracer1 could you please load up more pics of your front axle set up.
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:39 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Any new info on these?

has aftermarket support increased any? I havent found anything in the way of badass shafts.


I've been trying to get ahold of a set of these axles at a good price for several months, people kept flaking or selling before I could pick up, but I'm getting a 2011 D60 3.55 geared next week (actually got a deposit down on it so the guy would hold it)
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:42 PM   #79 (permalink)
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building one here:

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...l#post14997241
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:57 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Thanks, but not the same as 05+ SD axles. (I should have specified)
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:59 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Been doing lots of stub shaft research also... I'm picking up these axles tomorrow

D70 rear and 14 bolt front with 99-04 style super duty outers.


Question:

Can these spindles from SOLID that say they are for a spidertrax knuckle be used in a stock super duty knuckle?

Edit: yes they can



I figure with the 14 and 70 centers, that opens up the door for 40 spline stuff (yes, I know it is $$$$)



OH, and what are the chances that these knuckles will hold up in a rear steer setup? The guy that built them is getting rid of them because of the 30 spline stubs, never had a problem with knuckles afaik
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:39 AM   #82 (permalink)
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No expert, but I built one and did alot of research on them...or what I could find. I never found anyone who broke a knuckle and posted it...does not mean it has not happened. However, they are heavy duty and I would say much stronger than kingpin stuff from the factory. Also, the stock unit bearings can be bored to accept 35 spline shafts. Some will argue they get too thin, but again, I have not seen anything on failures with bored units. I went with 30 spline superiors for now, but if I bore them in the future my plan is to remove the absolute minimum material and try to do a honed finish to remove any stress risers from the boring. Any D60 35 spline slug or lockout will fit.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:36 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Knuckles are massive, I do not think you will have a problem. For the UB, I would use the new Spyder trax ultimate UB, they are rebuildable and plan bad ass. In the long run they would be cheaper then the Solid spindle + hubs, brakes, etc...
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:44 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepman14wheel View Post
Knuckles are massive, I do not think you will have a problem. For the UB, I would use the new Spyder trax ultimate UB, they are rebuildable and plan bad ass. In the long run they would be cheaper then the Solid spindle + hubs, brakes, etc...
I didn't see a 40 spline option for the Spydertrax UB? The only thing I was intersted in was going to full 40 spline crazy high zoot stuff to drive full retard I'm pretty sure I'll NEVER spend that much $ on axles

I picked up the axles today, they are FUKING BEEF.

Just need some big stub shafts and should be good to go for a while. I have the inner shafts, which are factory inners, replined to fit.

I've priced out what all I need:

Bore Unit bearings to fit 35 spline= Free
Modify inner shafts for full circle clips= Free

10 Factory 35 spline stub shafts x4 = $600

Yukon Super Joints x4 = $800

35 Spline drive slugs x4 = $400

So for a measly $1800 + misc hardware and a 4.10 geared jy 14 bolt, I should have some "decently" strong axles.

I'll probably work up from there, RCVs are always an option. (at $2300/axle they are an expensive one...)
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:48 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Just run some 35 spline 300M and forget about the 40 spline stuff. You still need a little twist in the axles to absorb some shock load.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:16 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepman14wheel View Post
Just run some 35 spline 300M and forget about the 40 spline stuff. You still need a little twist in the axles to absorb some shock load.
That would probably be cheaper in the long run, I'll probably do what I described first,

A full set of CTM shafts and joints, or 300m RCVs would probably say me money in the long run over the Yukon joints and 10 Factory stubs with the factory replined inner shafts...

That inital $5000+ just for shafts is a big hit tho, even considering I got a HELL of deal on the housings...
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:37 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Toby, any updates on your project???


Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtwstr View Post
Fawk this whole "Super 60" name thing...
It's simply a nickname that was given to the "450-550" axle by Ford Motorsports... And now-a-days most people call the "250-350" axle a "Super 60" too, so it's just simply confusing!
Some "450-550" axles don't have 1550 U-Joints so....
Some "450-550" axles don't have a 10" ring gear so...
Some "250-350" axles did have a 10" Ring Gear so....

The name "Super 60" doesn't clearly define anything anymore!

Generalizing them all as a "Super 60" is OK-ish I guess but for clear discussion purpouses calling them "250-350" and "450-550" is a lot more accurate IMO.

Both sides on the "450-550" are wider than "250-350" AFAIK.
I'm about 90% sure the Radius Arm Bushings are placed the same width apart on both axles, but on the "450-550" both tubes are longer from the Bushings out. I just bought a 550 axle and it should be here within a couple weeks, then I'll be able to measure and be sure.
450-550 Inner Shafts can't be cut down and re-splined to fit in a 250-350 housing cuz even though they are long enough there's a neck down just past the inner seal. You're stuck getting custom shafts if the stockers aren't strong enough for you.
It wont be long till there are plenty of aftermarket shafts available for the 250-350 housings with 1550 U-Joints.
1550 U-Joints will fit in a 05+ 250-350.
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:03 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Does anyone have a length on the 1550 inner shafts? Just looking at maybe using them in another custom application....
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:45 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Any more info on these?
Like where to get shafts and what modifications should be done to them to make them pretty bullet proof? Ive read through this thread several times but I'm only 16 so some of the stuff is kinda flying over my head and i need some guidance.


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Old 12-16-2012, 07:27 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSBronco View Post
Any more info on these?
Like where to get shafts and what modifications should be done to them to make them pretty bullet proof? Ive read through this thread several times but I'm only 16 so some of the stuff is kinda flying over my head and i need some guidance.


Tucker
For 99-04 axles put 35 spline stubs in them. Bore unit bearings out. Standard lockouts and drive slugs work.

10 factory, g2, currie and spidertrax offer 35 spline stubs pre made to correct dimensions.


Currie has bolt on bracket adapters to use dynalite calipers.





Since Toyota calipers mount the same as wilwoods, I think I'm going to try to use Tacoma brakes and rotors on them (and convert to 6 lug)
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:45 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Get a hold of ECGS, they have everything needed to make the axle work. Outer stubs are easily acquired, the inners will have to be custom made. I just went through all this building a 04 F350 SD axle.
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:59 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Dang, I figured I was gunna get yelled at to search and shit. Thanks for the help will this all help with the 05 and up as well?
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:12 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Dang, I figured I was gunna get yelled at to search and shit. Thanks for the help will this all help with the 05 and up as well?
05 up already has 35 spline stubs factory.

Basically no upgrades needed unless you go chromo (custom).

They changed unit brakes in 2011? ish... From the research I've done so far...
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:25 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBItoy View Post
For 99-04 axles put 35 spline stubs in them. Bore unit bearings out. Standard lockouts and drive slugs work.

10 factory, g2, currie and spidertrax offer 35 spline stubs pre made to correct dimensions.


Currie has bolt on bracket adapters to use dynalite calipers.





Since Toyota calipers mount the same as wilwoods, I think I'm going to try to use Tacoma brakes and rotors on them (and convert to 6 lug)


Currie has a bracket for the UB knuckle that uses a FJ Cruiser caliper with a 4Runner rotor (with a 17" wheel option). A friend of mine put a RJ60 in the front of his FJ and thats his setup, stops really good.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:47 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdc12372 View Post
Currie has a bracket for the UB knuckle that uses a FJ Cruiser caliper with a 4Runner rotor (with a 17" wheel option). A friend of mine put a RJ60 in the front of his FJ and thats his setup, stops really good.
Yeah, wilwood calipers are literally the same as a Toyota caliper, just billet aluminum.

The standard dynalite calipers have 5.25" mount spacing which is the same as tacoma based vehicles, and the dynalite narrow calipers have 3.5" spacing which is the same as mini truck based vehicles.


Good to know the rotors work out. All fj cruisers use the same 319mm rotors, also used on all 16" wheel 99-up 4runners and 6 lug Tundras.

Tacomas use 296mm rotors.
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Old 12-22-2012, 08:39 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Will the spidertrax spindles and unit bearing work with these knuckles as well?
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:10 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSBronco View Post
Will the spidertrax spindles and unit bearing work with these knuckles as well?
I talked with Spydertrax and they said the ultimate unit bearings will work on this axle.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:47 AM   #98 (permalink)
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what about just putting O5+ hubs on an O4 and older axle. No boring anything, better design etc... Assuming they will bolt up You need to redrill the hubs to get the toyota rotors to fit right, differnt bolt pattern?
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Old 12-23-2012, 12:05 PM   #99 (permalink)
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what about just putting O5+ hubs on an O4 and older axle. No boring anything, better design etc... Assuming they will bolt up You need to redrill the hubs to get the toyota rotors to fit right, differnt bolt pattern?
Won't work. Nothing is interchangeable (from what Ive found). I haven't picked up a newer style axle yet. They changed unit bearings again in 2010/2011. I've got a 2011 model front axle purchased, just haven't picked it up yet

Yes, converting to 6 lug
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:54 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Did you get the 11? I wanna know if the ubs are interchangeable between the 05,10 units and the 11,13 ones
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