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Old 09-24-2015, 05:14 PM   #1576 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ROKRWLR View Post
ECGS now shows the 05+ slugs. Hopefully that means RPM has them back in stock.
Dana 60 Drive Flange Kit - 35 Spline Drive Slugs

RCV is checking to see if they have a solution. Waiting to hear back b
Just to follow up on the drive flange topic... RPM FINALLY has the 05+ sets back in stock. I just ordered a set today something like $235 after the pirate discount. You have to call them, though. Their website has been down for quite some time now.


Thankfully they got rid of the fat lady covers and they are just the normal RPM covers.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:35 PM   #1577 (permalink)
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Now someone needs to start making 05 + 4340 shafts.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:37 PM   #1578 (permalink)
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Now someone needs to start making 05 + 4340 shafts.
Yup. I'd order up 2 sets right now if they did.
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Old 09-24-2015, 08:13 PM   #1579 (permalink)
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Yup. I'd order up 2 sets right now if they did.
Talk with ESGS, they made my set for the 99-04 I am sure they can make them for the 05+
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Old 09-24-2015, 08:16 PM   #1580 (permalink)
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Talk with ESGS, they made my set for the 99-04 I am sure they can make them for the 05+
Already have, they said they can have them made. I don't have to order RIGHT NOW though and I'm generally very careful about paying for promises no matter who it is making them. I'm hoping that timing works out to where someone sees some value in these things and I can reward their investment with a purchase. If not, ECGS is my backup plan for now.
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Old 09-27-2015, 07:28 AM   #1581 (permalink)
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I have a buddy that is running an 05+ front axle and chromo shafts already
I'll have to find out where he got them
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Old 09-27-2015, 08:00 AM   #1582 (permalink)
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Question for you guys that are already running these axles. Are you happy with the brakes? My project (Super60 and Sterling) with hydro boost doesn't seem to be all that great at stopping from high speed. (60 mph) I'm running 46" heavy military tires, but the rest of the truck is just a frame right now. I'm guessing about 4,000 lbs. Arnt Superdutys ratted for something like ten tons? I can't say I'm impressed.

I've heard of people changing the brakes/rotors to make them lighter, is there upgrades to make them more effective? I don't want to work on that right now, but I wouldn't mind keeping my eyes open for whatever I need.
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Old 09-27-2015, 08:43 AM   #1583 (permalink)
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What is happening with your brakes that you don't like? Firm pedal but not slowing you down? Soft pedal that pushes to the floor?

Don't go lighter, the only reason to do that is to decrease rotating mass, but you're sacrificing thermal mass by doing so (less metal to absorb the braking heat). Diameter of the rotor, and the friction rating of the pads are the big factors in braking effectiveness there
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Dovenosed 5 speed WJ on 9"s
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Old 09-27-2015, 08:45 AM   #1584 (permalink)
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(60 mph) ... heavy military tires,
I'm guessing this is your problem. Racers generally say that rotational mass = 10x non-rotational.

You're driving your truck down the road at 60mph on military tires with just a frame?
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:20 AM   #1585 (permalink)
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Question for you guys that are already running these axles. Are you happy with the brakes? My project (Super60 and Sterling) with hydro boost doesn't seem to be all that great at stopping from high speed. (60 mph) I'm running 46" heavy military tires, but the rest of the truck is just a frame right now. I'm guessing about 4,000 lbs. Arnt Superdutys ratted for something like ten tons? I can't say I'm impressed.

I've heard of people changing the brakes/rotors to make them lighter, is there upgrades to make them more effective? I don't want to work on that right now, but I wouldn't mind keeping my eyes open for whatever I need.
I ran them with a stock TJ brake booster with the proportional valve removed and an adjustable proportioning valve install for the rear only. They worked amazing at any speed. Something else is going on with your brakes.
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:26 AM   #1586 (permalink)
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I want to keep the 1550 joints so what I would like to see made is a cromo replacment shaft. my idea is to use the 45deg of a steering without clearenced shats. I am in the early stages of using these diffs front and rear for a family size 4 seater buggy.
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:30 AM   #1587 (permalink)
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I want to keep the 1550 joints so what I would like to see made is a cromo replacment shaft. my idea is to use the 45deg of a steering without clearenced shats. I am in the early stages of using these diffs front and rear for a family size 4 seater buggy.
Unless you have 450/550 stuff you don't have 1550 joints. Forgive me if you previously stated that you were using 450/550 stuff and I missed it.
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Old 09-27-2015, 09:59 AM   #1588 (permalink)
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Unless you have 450/550 stuff you don't have 1550 joints. Forgive me if you previously stated that you were using 450/550 stuff and I missed it.
JJ-

In regards to the 450/550 front axle: I was checking one out the other day, and I know you said 250 unit bearings will work to keep it 8 lug, so I'm assuming that you will run 250 brakes, calipers and brackets. Or will a bracket need to be made?
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:06 AM   #1589 (permalink)
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JJ-

In regards to the 450/550 front axle: I was checking one out the other day, and I know you said 250 unit bearings will work to keep it 8 lug, so I'm assuming that you will run 250 brakes, calipers and brackets. Or will a bracket need to be made?
I'm not going to run the 450/550 stuff any more. But running 250/350 brakes was my plan. The calipers don't directly bolt up but an adapter bracket looked to be fairly simple. The 450/550 mounting ears are further apart than the 250/350. I got as far as bolting the 250/350 UB onto the 450/550 knuckle with a rotor on it to verify that it all fit and then stopped.
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Old 09-27-2015, 10:36 AM   #1590 (permalink)
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What is happening with your brakes that you don't like? Firm pedal but not slowing you down? Soft pedal that pushes to the floor?

Don't go lighter, the only reason to do that is to decrease rotating mass, but you're sacrificing thermal mass by doing so (less metal to absorb the braking heat). Diameter of the rotor, and the friction rating of the pads are the big factors in braking effectiveness there
Firm pedal. It is slowing down, just not impressive. I'm just running stock pads. Maybe I need to look in to exotic material.

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Originally Posted by patooyee View Post
I'm guessing this is your problem. Racers generally say that rotational mass = 10x non-rotational.

You're driving your truck down the road at 60mph on military tires with just a frame?
Had not heard that equation before. Mine are about 300 lbs. a corner. (Don't sound good) I'm only driving it on back roads on short trips for testing right now. Later, I would like ito make it street legal.

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I ran them with a stock TJ brake booster with the proportional valve removed and an adjustable proportioning valve install for the rear only. They worked amazing at any speed. Something else is going on with your brakes.
I don't have any proportion valve. If that were the problem, wouldn't it lock up the rear tires?
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Old 09-27-2015, 04:59 PM   #1591 (permalink)
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I'm not going to run the 450/550 stuff any more. But running 250/350 brakes was my plan. The calipers don't directly bolt up but an adapter bracket looked to be fairly simple. The 450/550 mounting ears are further apart than the 250/350. I got as far as bolting the 250/350 UB onto the 450/550 knuckle with a rotor on it to verify that it all fit and then stopped.

So what are you planning to run these days?
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Old 09-27-2015, 05:12 PM   #1592 (permalink)
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Firm pedal. It is slowing down, just not impressive. I'm just running stock pads. Maybe I need to look in to exotic material.
Hmmm. How's your power steering system doing, nice and quiet with seemingly good pressure? I just had a jeep leave the shop that was running hydroboost and 1/2 ton brakes, had no problem locking up 39.5" iroks on dry pavement
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Dovenosed 5 speed WJ on 9"s
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Old 09-27-2015, 05:24 PM   #1593 (permalink)
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I'm just going to run 250/350 knuckles. Easier to get stubs for and I don't need the beef for what I am building. I still have a 550 monobeam for sale if anyone wants it.
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Old 09-27-2015, 05:33 PM   #1594 (permalink)
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Hmmm. How's your power steering system doing, nice and quiet with seemingly good pressure? I just had a jeep leave the shop that was running hydroboost and 1/2 ton brakes, had no problem locking up 39.5" iroks on dry pavement
It's a full hydro steering. Works good. The whole brake system is Superduty. (Rotors, calipers, hydro boost and master.) The only difference is no anti-lock or proportion. But when I stand on the brakes, nothing locks. It's not terrible, but I just thought a 4000 lb. truck would stop on a dime with the one ton stuff.
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Old 09-27-2015, 07:23 PM   #1595 (permalink)
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Hard pedal with hydro boost is low pressure input, they need around 1250-1300 psi from the pump. It isn't the tires or wheels. Stock 8500 lb lifted trucks with 40's stop fine.. especially 05Up stuff..
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Old 09-27-2015, 07:29 PM   #1596 (permalink)
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It's a full hydro steering. Works good. The whole brake system is Superduty. (Rotors, calipers, hydro boost and master.) The only difference is no anti-lock or proportion. But when I stand on the brakes, nothing locks. It's not terrible, but I just thought a 4000 lb. truck would stop on a dime with the one ton stuff.
Stock pump? How is if plumbed? 5 port steering valve?
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Old 09-28-2015, 09:29 AM   #1597 (permalink)
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Hard pedal with hydro boost is low pressure input, they need around 1250-1300 psi from the pump. It isn't the tires or wheels. Stock 8500 lb lifted trucks with 40's stop fine.. especially 05Up stuff..
It's all 07' stuff. Don't know about pressure from pump. See below.

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Stock pump? How is if plumbed? 5 port steering valve?
Pump is a new PCS. The steering valve is 4 ports. I've not seen a 5 port. I think it is plumbed straight to the hydro boost and then to the steering. The pedal feels like the hydro boost is not working, but if I shut off the engine while coasting, it obviously is working. (I get one stab and then it gets real hard)
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Old 09-28-2015, 10:34 AM   #1598 (permalink)
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Im going to change the gears and install a locker on my 07' SD60 in a few weeks. Im getting everything I need together. I want to replace the "dust seals" on the end of the axle tubes while I have it apart.

I ordered them at the Ford dealer and this is what I got. They are almost all metal. I think the ones on mine are all plastic/rubber.



They dont look anything like the ones I have. (at least what I can see) Have they changed the design? Ive heard the old ones were bad for tearing. (like mine) But I didnt know they changed them. Has anyone seen them before or did I get the wrong part?
SKF Part number for that seal is 16510 in case people don't want to buy it at the stealership. Napa has it for $12 and Rockauto for $9. I also found a National version at O'Reilly, part number 710701, but they want $25 for it.

Now that I am holding the new version in my hand it is an infinitely better design. I'm looking forward to never having to clean out my axle tubes.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:44 PM   #1599 (permalink)
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Thanks patooyee. Just realized today I need ball joints so figured I would put these seals in while I was there.
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:32 PM   #1600 (permalink)
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It's all 07' stuff. Don't know about pressure from pump. See below.



Pump is a new PCS. The steering valve is 4 ports. I've not seen a 5 port. I think it is plumbed straight to the hydro boost and then to the steering. The pedal feels like the hydro boost is not working, but if I shut off the engine while coasting, it obviously is working. (I get one stab and then it gets real hard)
Make sure the pressure line goes from the pump directly to the hydro booster and then the orbital. The fitting on the inside, closest to motor is the input. If that is all correct, you have a weak pump most likely.
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