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Old 09-25-2002, 04:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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tube notcher past 60 degrees?

Well i just discovered I had some extra cash in the bank and been wanting to get a tube notcher. The jd2 t1 notcher goes between 50-60 degrees i think but heard there are others that go further(cost more i'm sure). Where can i find these, how much do these cost?
thanks
bob
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Old 09-25-2002, 04:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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a torch or a mill is the only ways i have found for the big angle notches. mike
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Old 09-25-2002, 04:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Not to mention that the hole-saw would need to be 4" + deep...Haven't found one of those yet. I'm still trying to find a 1.75 diameter saw that's deeper than 2".

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Old 09-25-2002, 04:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'll be facing the same problem next week (I hope). I figured a torch would work fine. Hell.. get enough practice eye-balling it, and it would probably work just as good as a tube notcher for the less experienced and 3x faster.



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Old 09-25-2002, 05:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Yeah, hole notchers aren't much use very far beyond 45*. I just cut it a little long at the angle of the bar it mates with, and then fish mouth it with a 4.5" hand grinder...
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Old 09-25-2002, 05:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by BadDog
Yeah, hole notchers aren't much use very far beyond 45*. I just cut it a little long at the angle of the bar it mates with, and then fish mouth it with a 4.5" hand grinder...
no kidding.. 45* on my tn100 with 2" tube leaves me hole sawing thru the bottom piece that holds the tube.. DOH...
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Old 09-25-2002, 05:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I use pro-tools notcher pretty cool will do offset notches also ran arround 300.00 but worth it.
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Old 09-25-2002, 05:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I deal with notching tubing all day. the way to make a notch that is deeper then 2 inches is to first make the deepest cut you can, then back off the wholesaw and cut 90degrees off the travel of the saw str5aight to the end of the cut you just made, then proceed with the notching. this seems to work best. it's a lot easier with aluminum tube liek we use because you can just break the peice off, but cutting it off won't take too much longer. deep whoelsaws are expensive, if you can even find them, especially when you go through a few on a project. stick with your cheap hardware store bi-metal wholesaws. we go through about 1-2 a week and we are cutting nothing but alluminum tubing. they won't last as long on steel but are cheap and readily available. just my .02.......

-Scott
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Old 09-25-2002, 06:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I agree with what has been said. I cut notches until the hole saw bottoms out on the tube. Then I take a cresent wrench and wiggle the excess until it breaks...then proceed with the notch. Make sure to have the drill going slow when the hole saw enters the tubing, if it is off at all it will bind up and when that happens with my 1/2 magnum hole shooter i usually get a sore arm if I'm not careful :P

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Old 09-25-2002, 07:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Here is a few shots of my pro-tools setup with my mini brute
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Old 09-25-2002, 07:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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A side shot
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Old 09-25-2002, 07:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Old 09-25-2002, 07:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by CJ Lagos
I agree with what has been said. I cut notches until the hole saw bottoms out on the tube. Then I take a cresent wrench and wiggle the excess until it breaks...then proceed with the notch. Make sure to have the drill going slow when the hole saw enters the tubing, if it is off at all it will bind up and when that happens with my 1/2 magnum hole shooter i usually get a sore arm if I'm not careful :P

CJ
yea i find when i do those notches to just go till the saw bottoms out.. the tube that's cut just pops off with a flathead screwdriver.. it's the sharp angles on 2" tube w/ the tn-100 that's a pain..
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Old 09-25-2002, 08:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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We use a belt sander. You do the notching at the end roller that the belt travels around. The little vise that holds the pipe only goes to 60 degrees but i just free hand the ones over 60.
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