Axle shafts to be used as driveshaft yokes 1310 and 1410-1480 tech... - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 02-06-2010, 08:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Axle shafts to be used as driveshaft yokes 1310 and 1410-1480 tech...

First off, if you are okay with 1310 series driveshaft joints... I found a neat conversion joint that converts a D30/D44 5-260X joint to a standard 1310 series driveline joint. I'm building a stupid cheap shaft for the front of my TJ and this is the route I'm probably going to take. No offense to Jess but I just can't afford the toy conversion flanges and a toyota driveline at the time. I will be picking up some free D44 shafts and a 1310 yoke for my D60 soon so I'm cutting corners for the time being. I don't have the HD front output on my 300 yet so I don't want a bombproof front shaft. One sweet plus side of this joint is that it won't have any flimsy exposed retaining clips... the driveshaft side will have internal axle style clips and the ones at the pinion/tcase will have u-bolts.

Here is the Neapco P/N:

2-5374

It's about $16 at Advance Auto Parts. I'm sure Jess can get it for you as well

Info on the yokes being converted:

1310 normal driveshaft u-joint:
-3.219" wide overall
-1.062" caps

5-260x D30/D44 joints up until about 96 or so:
-3.125" wide overall
-1.062" caps

5-297x/5-760x D30/D44 joints(97+ TJ/XJ etc):
-3.219" wide overall
-1.188" caps

Now, just for the sake of discussion and because this shit interests me(though I have no desire to use it on my own rig any time soon)... D60 shafts use a 1480 u-joint.

The specs for 1410 and 1480 are as follows:

1410 series 5-801x driveshaft joint:
-4.188" wide
-1.118" caps

1480 driveshaft joint(SPL-55x)/D60 axle stub u-joint(5-806x):
-4.188" wide
-1.375" caps


Now I am not 100% sure what is done to get the larger caps between 1410 vs 1480... Does anybody have a D60 axle joint and a 1410 driveline joint that they could pull the caps off of and measure the diameter of the trunions?

I suppose the differences COULD be larger bearings to fit the bigger cap, but I'm going to guess that the trunion itself is larger(which would probably net the biggest gain in strength vs larger bearings to fill the gap between trunion and larger cap).

Would it be possible to get a 1480 axle joint, machine two opposing trunions down to whatever it takes to get two 1410 caps on to make your own conversion joint? I am not sure what is going on as far as affecting whatever forging or heat treating processes or if it would be possible to fix after machining so that is something that somebody else will have to step in and answer.


Bored as hell on a Saturday and trying to stir up some tech.


edit: And YES I have seen the thread where somebody made their own 1480 flange for their NP205 which was pimp as hell, but this is a little more basic IMO as long as you're not after the entire 1480 strength(1410 is sufficient in many cases).
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Last edited by flatlander757; 02-06-2010 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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no offence taken I understand the money part - the thing about the axle type of driveline is it would not be a bad idea to make 2 -because fixing one out on the trail would be pretty slim - Carry on- Jess
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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one other thing the 1480 wheel joint is an inside slip the 1480 outside is outside ring , the lock up dimension is off on the cross also - the journal size is different on the 1410 and 1480 also -it would reguire a bushing or some kinda of trust washer to take up the space- enough time and thought and it would be sanitary-Jess
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm going to guess that the trunion itself is larger(which would probably net the biggest gain in strength vs larger bearings to fill the gap between trunion and larger cap).
).

This^^^. I made one, would do it again, it worked. But Like jess says, I figure if mine ever lets go, it's gonna take out the ears, and fawk the shaft.

Mine was less to do with strength though, and more that I built it all out of scrap, and got a huge amount of angle. If I had the coin, it would go to Jess though.
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onetoncv View Post
no offence taken I understand the money part - the thing about the axle type of driveline is it would not be a bad idea to make 2 -because fixing one out on the trail would be pretty slim - Carry on- Jess
Quote:
Originally Posted by onetoncv View Post
one other thing the 1480 wheel joint is an inside slip the 1480 outside is outside ring , the lock up dimension is off on the cross also - the journal size is different on the 1410 and 1480 also -it would reguire a bushing or some kinda of trust washer to take up the space- enough time and thought and it would be sanitary-Jess
I am not entirely sure but I THINK that is a moot point on the 1480 side(if you're using an axleshaft AS a portion of the driveshaft... my goal) and the 1410 side would get 1410 driveline style caps of course... giving you the external snap rings if needed(only if used w/ a flange... otherwise you have u-straps or bolts holding it to the pinion or t-case output).

Good thought on "shimming" two trunions on a 1410 joint to take 1480 caps

What about taking a 1480 joint and machining two of them down to take 1410 roller bearings and caps? Would that screw up heat treating?

Quote:
Originally Posted by spidr View Post
This^^^. I made one, would do it again, it worked. But Like jess says, I figure if mine ever lets go, it's gonna take out the ears, and fawk the shaft.

Mine was less to do with strength though, and more that I built it all out of scrap, and got a huge amount of angle. If I had the coin, it would go to Jess though.
Good to know! Got any pics or info? Did you machine down a 1480 or shim a 1410 to make the different caps fit?

A spare would be pretty easy... if you buy (2) 1480 joint with intention to make a 1410-1480 conversion joint + 1 spare, you could buy (1) 1410 joint and have all 4 of the needed caps to make two 1480 joints.
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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A few drilled and plug welds would be good on the slip or tube you decide to use due to the fact your welding to a heat treated surface - Jess
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Old 02-06-2010, 10:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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on Chris Pooks KOH car he is using a TTB50 ( ford ) long side axle shaft as the front DS ( they use a standard 1350 joint )
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Old 02-06-2010, 10:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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on Chris Pooks KOH car he is using a TTB50 ( ford ) long side axle shaft as the front DS ( they use a standard 1350 joint )
I read somewhere that a lot of the S&N cars ran D44 axleshafts as front driveshafts to try and clear the trans pan and starter.
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Old 02-06-2010, 11:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I read somewhere that a lot of the S&N cars ran D44 axleshafts as front driveshafts to try and clear the trans pan and starter.


Yup, I have a couple buddies with S&N rigs that run them with great success. D:
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Old 02-06-2010, 11:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by spidr View Post
I read somewhere that a lot of the S&N cars ran D44 axleshafts as front driveshafts to try and clear the trans pan and starter.
That's basically what I'm doing with the 1310/5-260x conversion joint since I'm running a TJ w/ passenger drop front axle. Not entirely decided on what will be used for my slip in the driveshaft, probably square tube since my driveline angles will prevent me from having anything that won't vibrate anyways. A CV at the t-case will push the driveshaft too far forward and shaft will hit the bellhousing in the starter area. And a 2pc is too much for my cheap ass
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Old 02-07-2010, 01:00 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The d44 axleshaft/driveshaft is straight out of the mind of Tom
Leblanc (captain America)
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:24 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The d44 axleshaft/driveshaft is straight out of the mind of Tom
Leblanc (captain America)
Yeah, I know it's nothing new, but searching for axle shaft + drive shaft brings up a WHOLE lot of useless shit

FWIW I just searched "D44" only from Captain America and nothing came up... has he not shared anything about how he did it?
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