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Old 07-19-2010, 11:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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aluminum 4 link arms? good idea or bad

so i work at an aluminum extrusion plant and can have any size tube made out of aircraft aluminum for cheap and ive seen some rock buggys with aluminum 4-link setups. so what are your thaughts on it? would it hold up on a lighter rig 5000 lbs or less with with a v6 and 40" tires
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Old 07-19-2010, 11:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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They aren't running tube, they're running solid stock, drilled and tapped.
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Old 07-20-2010, 07:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
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i can have that made too, is it worth my time to make my rear 4-link out of aluminum or just buy dom tube
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Old 07-20-2010, 07:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
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no,

in my OPINION aluminum is a fad.

racers are breaking their aluminum links right where the threads stop.

use DOM save some cash and paint em silver if you want.

EDIT: if you really want to blow some cash and save some weight, get heat treated chromo links.
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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no,

in my OPINION aluminum is a fad.

EDIT: if you really want to blow some cash and save some weight, get heat treated chromo links.

Ding Ding Ding Ding

Everyone jumped on the wagon because a few big names did it. If you sit down and look at the properties is makes no sense.

If you want links that will never fail heat treated 4130 are the way to go because you gain tons of yield strength and it gives the material amazing memory. (it will remember if you talk shit and will make the other parts of the car fail)
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Here you go

http://www.hereticfab.com/store/merchant.
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Old 07-20-2010, 09:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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meh, ht cromo is probably the best option now, but al is not bad. i run solid 2"7075 lowers and 1.5" uppers, got a good deal on them from letzrolloffroad and havent had a problem with em yet, the oldest ones ive got are probably 4+ years old(my rear links) and at that time it was dom or aluminum, i bent 1.75 .250 wall dom pretty good, and didnt want the weight of 2" dom so i chose al and havent been disappointed.
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Old 07-20-2010, 09:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
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im not looking in to doing this as a fad, im just asking because i can have these made for me for the cost of around .50 cents a pound to 1.25 a pound and i can have access to spares if they do bend or break
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Old 07-20-2010, 09:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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IMHO, as Scott said above, 2" 7075-t6 solid with quality 1.25" heims...pretty damn bulletproof in my experience.
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Old 07-20-2010, 03:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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IMHO, as Scott said above, 2" 7075-t6 solid with quality 1.25" heims...pretty damn bulletproof in my experience.
Same here but with 1.25" johnny joints.
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Old 07-20-2010, 04:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
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IMHO, as Scott said above, 2" 7075-t6 solid with quality 1.25" heims...pretty damn bulletproof in my experience.
2nd that..... I have beat mine to death. Still holding up.(the same as above)
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Old 07-20-2010, 04:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hell how much can you get a stick of Solid 2.25 dia 7075 t-6 for. I can drill and tap a set of links for you for a stick. Just a idea!
I have the tap and drill in my toolbox draw. I like 2.25 OR 2.5 dia with 1.25 dia heims, gives you over.500 wall thickness.
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Old 07-20-2010, 05:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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if i was building a trail rig id run aluminum for lowers and uppers if i was building a ultra 4 or racer id build trailing arms for lowers and aluminum uppers. if you have acess to the aluminum and can build a couple spares for cheap why not?
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The problem with most aluminum links is that they are solid. Tube is a much more efficient use of material. If you can make some stupid-thick-wall 7075-t6 links go for it. Make them with the right ID so you can just tap them out without doing any drilling.
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:39 PM   #15 (permalink)
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if you put them on the bottom and dom on top it's a good mix. the aluminum will allow some bending if it hits rocks and the dom on top will keep things nice and strong.
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:45 PM   #16 (permalink)
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if you put them on the bottom and dom on top it's a good mix. the aluminum will allow some bending if it hits rocks and the dom on top will keep things nice and strong.
Wut?
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Old 07-20-2010, 07:04 PM   #17 (permalink)
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The problem with most aluminum links is that they are solid. Tube is a much more efficient use of material. If you can make some stupid-thick-wall 7075-t6 links go for it. Make them with the right ID so you can just tap them out without doing any drilling.

X2....this would be rad!!


I used to have 1.75 7075 lowers and killed them almost instantly.....for the last year I've been running 2" 7075 T-6 lowers and they are still straight....you can't run your hand on them without being cut but they are still goin strong. Midwest Control 7/8-3/4 heims attach them to the axles and chassis
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Old 07-20-2010, 07:11 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Wut?
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=874715
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:11 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I have a picture somewhere of a hollow aluminum upper link that broke in the middle at KOH and put the team out of the race.
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:29 PM   #20 (permalink)
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im not an engeneer....hell i cant even spell that...

but i do understand metal fatige sum....

to me common sence would say .....

solid bar stock all. would fatige less...(slower) than a hollow tube.....

due to the fact that the tube is going to flex and "move" around more than the solid.......
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Old 07-20-2010, 09:26 PM   #21 (permalink)
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im not an engeneer....hell i cant even spell that...

but i do understand metal fatige sum....

to me common sence would say .....

solid bar stock all. would fatige less...(slower) than a hollow tube.....

due to the fact that the tube is going to flex and "move" around more than the solid.......
If you took 2 pieces; one solid and another of the same weight but a tube the tube would flex, move, and fatigue less. The drill size for a 1.25-12 rod end is 1.172. If he had a tube that was 2.313 OD and 1.172 ID it would be about the same weight as a 2.000 OD solid bar but would be about 67% stronger/stiffer/fatige(sic) less. The reason no one uses aluminum tube is because it isn't readily available in sizes we would want (like the stupid thick example above). The OP can make whatever random size he wants.

If you read the post I linked to you will see that I'm not a big fan of aluminum upper links...but that isn't to say they can't be made to work especially with custom extrusions. I wouldn't run steel if I worked in an aluminum extrusion plant that would let me make cool stuff for myself I would also make some money by selling some to the guys on pirate...
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Old 07-20-2010, 09:27 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I have a picture somewhere of a hollow aluminum upper link that broke in the middle at KOH and put the team out of the race.
Well; let's see it.
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Old 07-20-2010, 09:40 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Well; let's see it.
Its at my friends house.

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Old 07-20-2010, 10:39 PM   #24 (permalink)
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thanks for the info, and not bashing me, i will see what size dies are in the die shop tomorrow, when i have it made i would have to use a whole slug witch is 2 feet long x 9 or 7" wide depending on witch press is used, meaning ther'll be about 30-40 feet of it made roughly, would anyone be interested in 2.25 or bigger 7075 t6 solid pieces if not i will scratch up the extra and probally put it into the scrap pile at work, i will find out prices tomorrow too
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Old 07-21-2010, 05:39 AM   #25 (permalink)
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in thanks
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