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Old 10-09-2010, 06:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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jam nut strength

as i see it, the purpose of a jam nut on a link & rod end is 2 fold. 1st, to stop the link from rotating or spinning on the rod end. 2nd, and more importantly, to remove any slop the rod end to link threads might have. without jam nuts, you'de surely destroy the threads in your link or on your rod end.

what grade jam nut is acceptable for the job?

mcmaster sells Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Grade 8 Steel 1.25"-12 jam nuts (23/32" thick) for just over $6 a piece

they also sell Zinc-Plated Grade 5 Steel 1.25"-12 jam nuts (same thickness) for just under $3 a piece.

is anyone running grade 5 jam nuts without issue? do you see a problem with using grade 5 jam nuts?
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Old 10-09-2010, 09:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 87JeepWrangler View Post
as i see it, the purpose of a jam nut on a link & rod end is 2 fold. 1st, to stop the link from rotating or spinning on the rod end. 2nd, and more importantly, to remove any slop the rod end to link threads might have. without jam nuts, you'de surely destroy the threads in your link or on your rod end.

what grade jam nut is acceptable for the job?

mcmaster sells Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Grade 8 Steel 1.25"-12 jam nuts (23/32" thick) for just over $6 a piece

they also sell Zinc-Plated Grade 5 Steel 1.25"-12 jam nuts (same thickness) for just under $3 a piece.

is anyone running grade 5 jam nuts without issue? do you see a problem with using grade 5 jam nuts?
You won't have any issues with the grade 5's if you're looking to save a few bucks.
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Old 10-09-2010, 09:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You can get them from Currie for 1.50 each
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=2633

I've bent and broken shanks on johnny joints and the jamb nuts have always held up. I really don't think you could go wrong with grade 5 or 8 on something with that much mass but those prices at McMaster are insane.

Even a left hand jamb nut from Currie is only 2.25
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=2632

If you need the right hand ones faster than you can get them from CA, then give Clayton or Adam a call because they have them in stock.
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Old 10-09-2010, 10:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Has anyone come up with a good idea to keep the jam nuts tight? Anyone ever safety wire them? I have seen a good idea to drill and tap the link to bolt a tab down on the jam nut flat to keep it from moving.
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Old 10-09-2010, 10:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Has anyone come up with a good idea to keep the jam nuts tight? Anyone ever safety wire them? I have seen a good idea to drill and tap the link to bolt a tab down on the jam nut flat to keep it from moving.
The desert race guys have some hi falutin thing that has about 50 bucks worth of machine work done to it for set screws and crap. Best answer is not to use jam nuts at both ends of an arm.
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Old 10-09-2010, 11:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Has anyone come up with a good idea to keep the jam nuts tight?
Tack weld the jam nuts to the links.
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Old 10-09-2010, 11:46 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Tack weld the jam nuts to the links.
Good plan, and I appreciate the idea, but what about Al links/steel jam nuts?
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Old 10-09-2010, 12:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Good plan, and I appreciate the idea, but what about Al links/steel jam nuts?
Here, probably cost more than the joint, but you asked for it.

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...nut/index.html
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Old 10-09-2010, 01:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Use a good quality lock tight and primer on everything.
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Old 10-09-2010, 01:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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we tighten the dog shit out of the 1.25" jam nuts on timmy's car, and have no real trouble keeping them tight.

thanks for all the other info on jam nuts. didnt realize currie had them so cheap
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Old 10-09-2010, 02:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The desert race guys have some hi falutin thing that has about 50 bucks worth of machine work done to it for set screws and crap. Best answer is not to use jam nuts at both ends of an arm.
They are finding out that those didn't work too well and the guys using them are using jam nuts with them...Tack welds work!
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Old 10-09-2010, 02:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Good plan, and I appreciate the idea, but what about Al links/steel jam nuts?
I use a 24" crecent and jump up and down on it. I haven't had one come loose and I have to use a 6 ft cheater pipe to break them loose when I change heims. 2.5" AL links with 1.25" heims.
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Old 10-09-2010, 03:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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They are finding out that those didn't work too well and the guys using them are using jam nuts with them...Tack welds work!
Hey, it ain't my damned idea. I had some punk arguing with me over why I use clamps on steering links with splits like OEM does and he was all up in my face over his hi falutin Jam Nuts and how the desert race guys swear by them.

I explained that the fact there is a Jam Nut with 50 dollars worth of machine done to it means automatically they've had an issue with them coming loose.

But no, his desert race buddies all swear by them. Oh well, fuck him anyway.
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