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Old 02-10-2011, 03:13 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Thanks for the 8274 tech another guy comment on the same issue a few post back I haven't got around to changing it. I just went for the fastest winch he recommended the Warn 9.5 xp. Would you recommend anything different.

I here you on the link geometry spreading the front lower links more. It is closer than you think I would need to rotate the image so you can see.
Do you think I would still need to spread the lower links if I moved the struts to the Axle? I'm going to try and spread the links out the best I can it will help when I have actual parts in front of me. The tire is just an arbitrary shape at 37" with 5.5 back spacing if I remember correct.

I was wounder why not to many put the struts on the links in the front, I just knew the strut mount needs to be lower than the mid point of the link.

Do you think I'll be OK in the rear? with the struts on the links, I can look to move them outboard a little more.

But this is a lot better to critic the design now than rather than after it is built. I don't have anyone here I can talk to just what I've read on the internet. So the input is a lot of help.

"Speaking of upper links you are farmiliar with how a single upper link at an angle creats chassis roll when your drivetrain is under torque? It's hard to tell how they are positioned... "

No I'll have to look into that, can you point me to some tech.

Thank you
~Justin
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Old 02-10-2011, 04:38 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcurrier44 View Post
... You don't see many people putting their lower mounts on their front links for this reason. By the time you move the lower link in far enough to clear at full steering lock you loose a lot of stability.

After you do this you can streighten that snake of an upper link that will probubly bend on you anyway.
...
Good call I moved the struts out on the axle, went back the the 16" struts. (with the 14" on the link I had about 17" wheel travel)
It looks a lot more natural now.
I was also able to shorten the wheel base 4" the struts used to hit the engine mount.
I don't have that insane articulation angle to worry about. and now the links clear the tires a lot easier looks like I can straighten all the links out.

The tires clear a lot more now with the less articulation.

As for the panhard angle someone mentioned back further I designed the the frame mount to not be lower than the axle at full compression. and the axle side to not hit the frame. I can work on the angle a bit more since every thing just changed.






The upper mount gets close but that can be moved a little with no issues.


here is a picture of the rear do you think I should pull the struts off the links here too?
I can probable move he links outboard a little.



Thanks for the input
~Justin
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:31 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by customcreationsllc View Post
Thanks for the 8274 tech another guy comment on the same issue a few post back I haven't got around to changing it. I just went for the fastest winch he recommended the Warn 9.5 xp. Would you recommend anything different.



I love the 8274 but they are hard to package. I don't see anything wrong with a 9.5. Warn winches just plain work.



Quote:
Originally Posted by customcreationsllc View Post
Do you think I would still need to spread the lower links if I moved the struts to the Axle? I'm going to try and spread the links out the best I can it will help when I have actual parts in front of me.



Not realy. The setup looks better when you moved the struts to the axle. The only thing you will have to worry about is that the farther away from the knuckle you put the lower link mount the harder it is on the link and the more likely you are to bend the tube. I would just place it as close to the tire as you can get it given your steering angle and tire size.... you are on the right track.


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Originally Posted by customcreationsllc View Post
Do you think I'll be OK in the rear? with the struts on the links, I can look to move them outboard a little more.



Lots of people run them like that on the rear. I didn't but I have rear steer.... Look at a Campbell single seat V8 buggy and see how he packages them. He gets them amazingly close to the tire.




Quote:
Originally Posted by customcreationsllc View Post
No I'll have to look into that, can you point me to some tech.
I have some saved....let me dig them up. I'm sure there is more out there on it. Pay particular attention to Gordons posts.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=364383

The torque calculation Gordon/others are talking about. Make sure you apply it correctly.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334966
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:47 PM   #54 (permalink)
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As for the panhard angle someone mentioned back further I designed the the frame mount to not be lower than the axle at full compression. and the axle side to not hit the frame. I can work on the angle a bit more since every thing just changed.
I would. You see it quite a bit with super short or angled panhards where you get alot of jacking from side force when sidehilling or hard cournering. Take your pen and just push/pull on the the end as if you were simulating the side load on the truck with an angled panhard. One direction it pulls the chasis down (witch isn't bad) and the other it lifts it (witch causes unstability and jacking).

The flatter you get it the less of an effect this will have on your suspension. It seams to be the standard now to actualy place the axle side a couple of inches higher than the frame side inorder to make a very stable setup.

In doing this you will raise your roll center (watch out for bad roll axis angle) witch is a good thing to an extent. It's my opinion that you want your roll center as close to your sprung COG height with out going over it. This will again promote stability just like pushing your struts out since the COG has less leverage over your roll axis.
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:53 PM   #55 (permalink)
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By the way I like how you put triangulation into your B-pillar. I'm not sure how far off from the upper strut mounts you are, but if you could make each V drop right on top of the upper strut mount you would make that area very strong without having a bulky upper strut mount.
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Old 02-11-2011, 05:21 AM   #56 (permalink)
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rcurier44
Thats a lot of good info thanks for all your help.
It's going to take me some time to revamp this design.
I'll keep updating the thread.
I just wanted to thank you.
~Justin
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Old 02-11-2011, 08:51 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rcurrier44 View Post
I have some saved....let me dig them up. I'm sure there is more out there on it. Pay particular attention to Gordons posts.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=364383

The torque calculation Gordon/others are talking about. Make sure you apply it correctly.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334966

You sure got my head spinning I couldn't fallow it.
I found this equation.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon
Here you go
x distance from lower link axle mount to ground
y vertical distance from upper link mount to lower link mount on axle
O offset from center of third link (What Direction is positive?)
a angle of third link from horizontal
R gear ratio
D tire diameter

O = (D*y)/(2*R*X*tan(a))

As you plug some numbers in you will see that the correct offset varies a lot with the angle of the link, so you can't really have it right throughout the range of travel. For a lot of suspensions the upper link even crosses horizontal so sometimes having the link offset is doing more harm than good. If the upper link is very close to horizontal you need an incredible amount of offset to have any effect at all. also having the link offset causes the tires to be loaded unequally during braking, so if you error error on the side of less offset then the numbers say, to compromise.


Then Gordon States.
I wish I didn't post the equation, instead of designing to the numbers it would be best if people designed to get the direction of the link correct. From that same post this is really all the info you need.


O = (D*y)/(2*R*X*tan(a)) So looking at the equation (a) and (O) is the the only thing that can be negative so the angle is directly proportional to what side the link is on, and that is it?

What is the correct directions?
a) angle from what end axle end so in front a would be positive if the frame is higher than the axle mount?
O) what side of the chassis is positive?
Does drive shaft direction Pinion off set etc come into effect?

**
Is this a true statement?? This is what I can theorize but could be wrong.
"The upper link direction should be angled so that the Pinion rotation direction is trying to extend the axle out away from the chassis when torqued."
**


Quote:
Originally Posted by rcurrier44 View Post
I would. You see it quite a bit with super short or angled panhards where you get alot of jacking from side force when sidehilling or hard cournering. Take your pen and just push/pull on the the end as if you were simulating the side load on the truck with an angled panhard. One direction it pulls the chasis down (witch isn't bad) and the other it lifts it (witch causes unstability and jacking).

The flatter you get it the less of an effect this will have on your suspension. It seams to be the standard now to actualy place the axle side a couple of inches higher than the frame side inorder to make a very stable setup.

In doing this you will raise your roll center (watch out for bad roll axis angle) witch is a good thing to an extent. It's my opinion that you want your roll center as close to your sprung COG height with out going over it. This will again promote stability just like pushing your struts out since the COG has less leverage over your roll axis.

I always thought the jacking affect was when the CG is lower than the RC so in turns the CG actually lifts the outside wheel.
I played with my pen, I was just always under the impression that all the side to side force was reacted around the RC on a 3 link.
I do agree there is a difference in each direction off camber in one direction the Panhard center moves up less roll, and the other direction the pan hard center moves down more roll.
I would also agree with a steeper angle panhard side loads may cause an upward or downward chassis force.

So in short I should design around the longest flattest Panhard, correct?
With the new strut location I should be able to play with the Panhard some.
I'll See what I can fit and get back to you.

Agree the the closer the RC and the CG is the less body roll you get, but the RC always needs to be lower than the CG or you get the jacking effect problem. The body roll is good to a point to put more load on the outside wheel but too much is also a bad thing you don't want to actually roll.

I fabbed featherlight modified race cars for a while they use watts links in the rear with an adjuster screw to adjust the RC in pit stops. So I understand it be critical, but easier said than done on long travel suspensions.



Sorry for all the rambling but this is the time to get it right.
There was a reason my first build was Leaf springs.
Thank you
~Justin
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:37 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by customcreationsllc View Post
**
Is this a true statement?? This is what I can theorize but could be wrong.
"The upper link direction should be angled so that the Pinion rotation direction is trying to extend the axle out away from the chassis when torqued."
**



I looked at it like this: When you are driving forward the rear axles upper link is in tension...so it is pulling on the frame. The frame rotates around the roll axis. Therefor I want to position the upper link so it is pulling the frame back level.

As an example lets say that your roll axis is below your upper link. As typical front engine V8 will roll the rig clockwise when viewed from the back. To fight this I would put the upper link on the drivers side angling in at the frame. This way it's pulling the frame back to the driver side above the roll center resisting the motors clockwise force.

Gordans equasion is just basic statics that relates the moment created from the driveshafts torque to the leverage that the upper link has over the roll center. Set them equal to each other and solve for your missing variables (usualy the angle of the link) and you can design it to keep the rig level and the tires planted.

Now obviously things change as the suspension articulates but it gives you a good starting design point.

You should have also picked up from those threads that you shoulden't do this in the front. Braking has a dramatic effect on it in the front, so without the driveshaft torque to counteract these extra forces the rig will roll and pitch under breaking. You prety much want to run your front upper link as streight as possible.

Clear as mud, right







Quote:
Originally Posted by customcreationsllc View Post
So in short I should design around the longest flattest Panhard, correct?


Yep



Quote:
Originally Posted by customcreationsllc View Post
Agree the the closer the RC and the CG is the less body roll you get, but the RC always needs to be lower than the CG or you get the jacking effect problem. The body roll is good to a point to put more load on the outside wheel but too much is also a bad thing you don't want to actually roll.



That is true for a road car but not realy true for a rock crawler. I would agree that the CG should be kept above the RC but seperating them eather direction will create one side or the other to jack and raise the COG and make the rig less stable. Road cars use these dynamic forces to try and create extra traction. They arn't realy woried about rolling over. With the amount of suspension movement we offroaders have it's a real problem.

If you are driving along a side hill the last thing you want is the rig to lean down hill. Think of how your AS is effected by climbing up a hill. The steeper the hill the less that gravity will balance the AS out and it end up making the rig lift more. Well the same will be true for a sidehill. Less weight on the uphill side will allow the AS that is built into your system to raise that side and try to roll you over.

I realy don't think there is a majic number for this and every situation is going to be different. But you tend to see the comp guys who run panhard bars and do well run their panhard bars very high and their COGs very low. To the point where their rigs don't realy lean over when sidehilling.





Well I hope some of my rambling made since and helped you out. I'm tired from these 12 hour days (haven't had a day off in almost 4 weeks) so hopefully I didn't mix to many things up.

ROB
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:39 AM   #59 (permalink)
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I got my upper links are pretty close to flat I hope this will eliminate most of the torque chassis twist. And the upper link is on the driver side in the rear.




But I played around a little more with the 3link program.
What I did was design the links around the smallest amount of change throughout the travel. I don't want 80% anti squat the compress 2" and go to 120% what if I want to adjust ride height?
I hope this will produce a more predictable vehicle.

Now I don't know what my CG is so I don't know for sure what I'll have until I find out that number.
So my plan is to make the frame side Upper link height adjustable I found this to change the antisquat the most with keeping the rest pretty much the same.

So I modified the 3link program a little so I can enter travel.
When I enter say 5" of travel it subtracts 5" from all the frame mounts (upper link, lower link, panhard) and the CG mimicking the chassis traveling downwards.
I know the equation isn't perfect because the links travel in an arc but should be close enough.

What I came up was a link geometry that has little antisquat change throughout the travel.
What do you guys think?

I know I'm probably over thinking it but I'm having fun.

Starting at 10" of compression then 5" then 0 the 5" of extension




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Old 02-15-2011, 03:47 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Now I don't know what my CG is so I don't know for sure what I'll have until I find out that number.
Can't you give your parts weight in the CAD program too approximate your COG?

How is your pinion angle doing with that short upper link?
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:11 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by customcreationsllc View Post
I just got the clutch and pressure plate in the mail so I can confirm it will all work very soon.
I also started taking out the balance shaft. I had to get some aluminum to plug off the oil passage so I'll be working on that very soon.
.....
I'm piecing together a similar drive train, thanks for posing the info/pics it makes it easier..

Have you verified the clutch parts fitment?
What flywheel are you using ? Solstice/Sky ? or other?
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:19 AM   #62 (permalink)
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I'm piecing together a similar drive train, thanks for posing the info/pics it makes it easier..

Have you verified the clutch parts fitment?
What flywheel are you using ? Solstice/Sky ? or other?

I saw your ecotec post. I'm having the same problem with the cam shaft and no hex I never even looked until I saw your post.
I ordered 2 GM hex inserts P/N 24572945
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=956020

I only verified the parts separate. I had my first kid, boy, 3 weeks ago so I have been banished from the garage to keep my hands clean. I should be back in there this weekend. That is why I've been spending so much time on the computer.
I also have the engine on the engine stand working on the motor balance shaft and now the hex on the cam.

Once that is done then I'll bolt the tranny up.

I have a pretty good feeling about it.
What I verified.
The clutch does fit on the spline.
The clutch does fit in the flywheel close fit a little on the large size.
The clutch to flex plate: the clutch hangs past the flex plate surface a little on the OD and the flex plate hangs passed the clutch on the ID so it is not using the whole clutch surface. You talking about 1/8".
There is a clutch option on Summit racing for a smaller clutch with same splines but it was $160 (For a Subaru or something) the clutch I got was $80 for centerforce or $60 from napa. 84 4cly Camaro.
The clutch does sit flat.
The flex plate does bolt to the flywheel. I should have measured clamp up distance but looks normal.
I need to make sure when I compress the fingers it releases before the fingers hit the disk.
The bellhousing does bolt both them together, and the tranny input shaft looks to be the correct length.
The pilot bearing also fit.

I just need to verify the clutch slave OD, enough throw for full engagement to disengagement but they have a lot of travel so I'm not to worried.

Back up plan is to try to and make the Sky slave to work.

I also asked Quad 4 Rods what they use for the T5 transmission bellhousing
This is what I got.
Use the stock clutch that came with your engine. If your transmission came from a V8 car you may need to have a clutch disc made with the correct spline.
The people at Competition Clutch can take care of it. Use a hydraulic throwout for theT5. You can get one from Speedway Motors




As for the flywheel I guess there is 2 different crank bolt patterns on the Ecotecs.
I looked up my motor 04 saturn ion, then used buyers guide which gives you a list of every vehicle that part works on.
I got the flywheel from the junk yard for $20 they are $150 new.

Now there was 2 flexplates ion which is $120 and a vue $60
So I went with the vue, I got it from THmotorsports.

Flywheel Buyers Guide. for the 04 saturn ion 2.2L
So any of these vehicle will have the same flywheel.

Make Model Engine Year(s)
Chevrolet Cobalt 2.2 L 134 CID L4 DOHC 16V ECOTEC 2005 - 2009
Chevrolet Cobalt 2.4 L 2384 CC L4 DOHC 16V ECOTEC 2006 - 2008
Chevrolet HHR 2.2 L 134 CID L4 DOHC 16V ECOTEC 2008 - 2010
Chevrolet HHR 2.4 L 2384 CC L4 DOHC 16V ECOTEC 2008 - 2010
Chevrolet HHR 2006 - 2007
Pontiac G5 2007 - 2009
Pontiac Pursuit 2005 - 2006
Pontiac Solstice 2.4 L 2384 CC L4 DOHC 16V ECOTEC 2007 - 2009
Pontiac Solstice 2006 - 2006
Saturn Ion 2.2 L 134 CID L4 DOHC 2004 - 2007
Saturn Ion 2.4 L 2376 CC L4 DOHC VVT 2006 - 2007
Saturn Ion 2003 - 2003
Saturn L100 2001 - 2002
Saturn L200 2001 - 2003
Saturn LS 2.2 L 134 CID L4 DOHC 2000 - 2000
Saturn LS1 2000 - 2000
Saturn LW1 2000 - 2000
Saturn LW200 2001 - 2003
Saturn Sky 2.4 L 2384 CC L4 DOHC 16V ECOTEC 2007 - 2009
Saturn VUE 2.2 L 134 CID L4 DOHC 2002 - 2005



Hope this helps
Let me know if you have any other questions.
~Justin
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:27 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Hey Justin, it's Fabio.

How's snowy Connecticut going It's nice and warm here in the west coast

Definitely subscribing to your build.

How are things with you?
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:36 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Thanks Fabio, how is your build coming?
The snow has been brutal, I know a lot of places get more snow but we are just not used to it and people have no idea what to do with it all. They just don't design parking lots and roofs to take 60" of snow in one month.


Anyways I only did a little bit of work on the buggy this weekend.
I started modeling up the Warn 9.5xp and modified some of the front chassis.
I'm kind of considering the Warn 9.0RC it comes with synthetic rope and a nicer hook and half the weight I bet a lot of the weight comes from the cable which I will eventually swap for synthetic.

But with 0nly 50' do people have any problems only running 50' a lot of time it is further than that to get to the next large tree. I can carry extra straps. But easier to just pull one cable. Anyone wish they had a longer winch line? or are you OK with 50'.
This is probably the last thing I buy so I don't need to decide now. Just helps designing the chassis.



Here is the answer to the question about the pinion angle with my short upper link design. I didn't measure it but looks reasonable to me.
The drive shaft plunge is a lot over 3", I don't have a high HP engine so I don't see the drive shaft binding up and not plunging.

Here are pictures of the rear throughout it's travel.

full up

5" up

ride height

full down
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:40 AM   #65 (permalink)
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I have a warn 9.0rc and have needed more cable than it holds several times. at KOH we wanted to be prepared to winch backdoor if needed and so masterpull came over and we crammed almost 80 feet of 5/16th line onto the winch. But it only works if you spool it perfectly. On respool during a race or whatever its going to get bound up against the winch plate if its spooled unevenly. I'm actually strongly considering going to a non integrated solenoid 10" drum winch from Warn for just this reason. yes the 9.0rc is lighter but most of that is due to rope versus wire I think. the drum itself and the two chromed tubes that hold the top of the winch apart can't weigh much different from 6" to 10".

In fact I'm going to the for sale section now to see if I can find a used winch for sale.

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Old 03-20-2011, 07:11 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Congrats on the new Baby!
Definitely subscribing to your build!
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:42 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Thanks I just I've been busy both with the kid and working 2-3 jobs to make money fore the buggy.
But I'm still working on the buggy just nothing exciting right now.

I just pulled the cam shaft out of the Ecotec to install the hex but it the cam shaft will not fit in my lathe the cam lobes stick out too far, I need to machined the end so I cannot put it between centers.
So I brought it to work I hope they can figure something out.

I took some pictures but forgot to upload them. Basically Ecotec Cam shafts have a hex at the end to drive the powersteering pump, MSD distributor which I'm running uses the hex to drive the distributor.
My ecotec did not come with powersteering so no hex in the cam. GM sells a Hex adapter for about $7 but you need to bore out the Cam to press it in.


I got another set of C's so I can use my SD set for a knuckle jig and I got a used unitbearing so I should be able to build the jig now. I just need metal to actuall build the knukles 5.5x5.5x1 plate for the bearing bolt surface and around 3" round stock to make the balljoint mounts. The rest will will 1/4" plate if I bend that I'll go bigger.

I got in touch with Gotpropane he is working on a kit for me.

I sent a bunch of E-mails to Griffin radiators no response yet maybe they are still busy from KOH? I just want to check if my radiator is large enough for my engine 22"x19" it is the smallest combo they sell.
Be nice to know before I build the chassis.


I'm considering moving the rear struts up to the axle too.
Something someone said. If you keep the strut mount below centerline the link will be bent. When you hit it against rocks the rocks will want to rotate the link if it rotates enough it could damage the strut.
Anyone have experience with this?
If I do I would go with 18" struts right now I have 16" on the links which gets me about 19" of travel. Maybe I'll lay it out and see how it looks.

Thanks for watching my thread
~Justin
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Last edited by customcreationsllc; 03-21-2011 at 06:37 AM.
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:34 AM   #68 (permalink)
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The 22x19 should be plenty big enough. I have a Ford style of same size from speedway and I'm actually looking at a smaller radiator. Course your prolly running alot more HP. But the alum. engine block/pan etc.. Should help a ton with heat dissapation. I'm looking at the civic aftermarket 2 core JDM spec. all alum, mounting bosses etc.. ~$40 tons on ebay..
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:54 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Justin,
The buggy design is coming along nicely!! Just wanted to put another word in for the Warn 9.5XP. I am running one on the front of my XJ and its one of the fastest under load winches I've seen or used; comparable with the 8274 series of winches. Those I've gotten rid of the wire and run 80' of 3/8" rope and never even come close to using all of it on the trail. The thing about the east is you never really need anymore than 50' on a trail.......though courses and out west are a completely different environment.

You could always get a 9.5XP and do a short drum conversion to is and run 5/16" or 1/4" rope. Its not like your buggy is going to weight all that much.

Bill
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:17 AM   #70 (permalink)
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I know it has been a little while, but I'm still working on it.

In CAD I moved the rear struts to the axle. I had too many comments concerning mounting the struts on the links. Like you need to mount it below the midpoint to keep the link from twisting due to the strut force. But now you have the opposite problem when you smash a rock into it.
Another comment was when you bottom out the strut you put a huge impact force in the link joints.

It was easier to mount them on the axle.
I had 16" struts in the rear on the link which gave me about 19" of travel I tried mounting 18" struts on the axle but just not enough room with the travel the tires hit the struts on articulation it is a pretty narrow width axle.

So 16" in the rear it will be I angled them about 15 as suggested to get me a little more travel not much but also mounts better.

Now the fronts I went to 14" I could squeeze 16" in the front any think I will miss the 2 inches.
Normally you want more travel in the rear correct?
This will also allow me to see better.

Sorry no CAD pictures. I haven't touched the chassis design so doesn't look like much.
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:21 AM   #71 (permalink)
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I finally finished the unit bearings. I know you can buy them predrilled but I already have the bearings so might as well give it a shoot.
Earlier post I showed them in the lathe getting a hair cut.
Now I was going to find a mill that I could barrow and measure the bolt pattern out. Or I could just use the rotors as a jig, and do it all myself. I just made a drill bushing to align the drill bit.

I tired it on some wheels fits perfect.
I also welded the nuts on so they will never back off.







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Last edited by customcreationsllc; 04-04-2011 at 06:43 AM.
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:34 AM   #72 (permalink)
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I did a little engine work too.

Remember my cam shaft didn't have hex to drive the power steering pump which I need to run the distributor.
Well I used the GM adapter 24572945





Bored out the cam shaft help from works milling machine. and pressed in the adapter. It is only spinning a cam so I only used .001-.002 press fit.




Then I removed the balance shafts. saved a whole 5lbs.
I made plugs for the oil bearing I made them really thick so I can get them out with a slide hammer.
Then I cut of the end of the balance shaft so the sprocket can bolt back up, I need the second chain that runs the balance shaft because it also runs the water pump.










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Old 04-04-2011, 06:41 AM   #73 (permalink)
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I also weld the bungs on while I had the engine apart.
1 on the oil dip stick 1/4NPT so I can use the Lokar universal locking dipstick.
Better than a pressed in OEM one. Rules require locking I guess you can get away with a zip tie.

I also welded on -8AN fittings for Vents to both sides of the block in the balance shaft area. I'm not going to run a PCV valve. I posted a PCV valve delete question the only reason to run it is to have vacuum in the block which seals better and creates a little more HP other than the obvious emissions. How much vacuum do you have under load, not much. The PCV in the Ecotec is under the intake manifold just an orifice. So in need to block this off or every time I roll that way I will fill my intake up with oil.
I guess I could run a standard PCV.
But I figure 2 -8 AN vents is good enough. 1 on each side so 1 will always be out of the oil, then I'll just 3 corner them into my air box. I forgot to take pictures of the -8 AN vents I'll do that the next time I'm in the shop and update this post.






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Last edited by customcreationsllc; 04-04-2011 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:03 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Sweet ! 5# is 5# !! I've seen it posted in the GM manual that those things sap 10hp.

Was thinking of doing the CB delete while it was apart doing the cam. I'll have to look at the PCV valve setup.
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:20 AM   #75 (permalink)
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