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Old 10-26-2019, 10:25 PM   #851 (permalink)
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I want to punch the GM engineer in the dick, that got sucked off by the torex supplier. Who the fuck thought it was a good idea to put torex head bolts on the front brake calipers on 4wd GMT800’s. And fuck the allen head bolts they use randomly as well.
Need to order some normal god damn hex head caliper bolts.


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Old 10-26-2019, 10:34 PM   #852 (permalink)
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CPS sensors on jeeps. Those are fun.
3 feet or so of socket extensions, ujoint/wobble socket on the end with duct tape wrapped around it to limit wobble and secure bolt until properly threaded. Once I found this setup it goes fairly quickly for me. But still a fucktarded setup from the get go.
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Old 10-27-2019, 05:19 AM   #853 (permalink)
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I want to punch the GM engineer in the dick, that got sucked off by the torex supplier. Who the fuck thought it was a good idea to put torex head bolts on the front brake calipers on 4wd GMT800’s. And fuck the allen head bolts they use randomly as well.
Need to order some normal god damn hex head caliper bolts.


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Why do you fuckers insist on calling them torex, it's torx you illiterate fucks.
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Old 10-27-2019, 06:41 AM   #854 (permalink)
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I want to punch the GM engineer in the dick, that got sucked off by the torex supplier. Who the fuck thought it was a good idea to put torex head bolts on the front brake calipers on 4wd GMT800’s. And fuck the allen head bolts they use randomly as well.
Need to order some normal god damn hex head caliper bolts.


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Napa sells new slide bolts. 3/4” hex head on them. Good luck getting the old bastards out, leverage is your friend. And heat.
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:18 AM   #855 (permalink)
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I want to punch the GM engineer in the dick, that got sucked off by the torex supplier.
twerx bolts are the best, much more of dat booty doe than those inferior tquarks that just seem to somehow weigh more than the rest of the truck
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:20 AM   #856 (permalink)
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Car engineering that makes you punch babies

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Napa sells new slide bolts. 3/4” hex head on them. Good luck getting the old bastards out, leverage is your friend. And heat.




That plus a 8” C clamp, 3/8 breaker bar, and a 30” piece of pipe got it done. I greased the hell out of them and put it back together so I could move it. Going to NAPA monday morning. But both sides done.

Inside pad on both fronts was done with the outside wear in great shape. I am thinking maybe its the deicer that froze the caliper bolts. Wheres jimmynumbers and his tub and neverseize when you need him. It got new calipers, pads and rotors at the end of last winter. Now I just did rotors and pads again. Anyways. Fuck TORX fasteners.


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Old 10-27-2019, 08:43 AM   #857 (permalink)
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That plus a 8” C clamp, 3/8 breaker bar, and a 30” piece of pipe got it done. I greased the hell out of them and put it back together so I could move it. Going to NAPA monday morning. But both sides done.

Inside pas on both fronts was done with the outside were in great shape. I am thinking maybe its the deicer that froze the caliper bolts. Wheres jimmynumbers and his tub and neverseize when you need him. It got new calipers, pads and rotors at the end of last winter. Now I just did rotors and pads again. Anyways. Fuck TORX fasteners.


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I have no issue with torx being used on smaller shit, but anything that requires 100ftlbs+ of torque has no business being a torx head. Especially on chassis and suspension shit that is going to rust solid anywhere north of Arizona. My favorite part is gm used torx on the front calipers and hex head on the rears.

Oh and Chrysler can suck it with their hard on for inverted torx shit! Seriously, who the fuck decided that starter bolts on a 4 cylinder tj need to be inverted torx? Either use hex head bolts like everyone else, or 12 point of you really want to church it up like ford does with their drive line flange bolts

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Old 10-27-2019, 08:50 AM   #858 (permalink)
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I've come to love the torx.

embrace it.

there are five lights
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:51 AM   #859 (permalink)
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I have no issue with torx being used on smaller shit, but anything that requires 100ftlbs+ of torque has no business being a torx head. Especially on chassis and suspension shit that is going to rust solid anywhere north of Arizona. My favorite part is gm used torx on the front calipers and hex head on the rears.


I think during the process yesterday I said something like “What sort of dumb mother fucking cock smoking puss infected nipple drip thought it would be a good fucking idea to put hex on the rear but torx up front. That POS is a load that should have been sprayed on the shower wall or removed with a rusty coat hanger.”

Torx are fine for certain low torque situations or shit that wont rust. But chassis related, FUCK NO!


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Old 10-27-2019, 09:03 AM   #860 (permalink)
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that ain't rust, everything under there looks practically new
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Old 10-27-2019, 09:15 AM   #861 (permalink)
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that ain't rust, everything under there looks practically new
I wasn’t going to say anything, but yeah, that’s not bad at all. I’d be happy to work on one that clean. And you have it even worse in Minnesota than I do here. My gmt800 looks a little better then that, but that’s because it came from an old dude who oil undercoated it since it rolled off of the dealers lot.
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Old 10-27-2019, 09:19 AM   #862 (permalink)
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I've come to love the torx.

embrace it.

there are five lights
So sad that I know that reference.


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Old 10-27-2019, 09:40 AM   #863 (permalink)
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that ain't rust, everything under there looks practically new


I get it compared to the east coat/rust belt. Not trying to say it is. But compared to when I lived where they used only sand vs now, salt/magnesium chloride, its been a drastic change. Many rigs that dont get cleaned off during winter have the custom rust belt look where 1/4 of the fenders and rockers are missing. I run mine through a car wash that does under carriage spraying every week or so during deicing months to try and slow the process. It seems to work based on looking at the long time residents that do that va those that say fuck it.


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Old 10-27-2019, 09:57 AM   #864 (permalink)
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I get it compared to the east coat/rust belt. Not trying to say it is. But compared to when I lived where they used only sand vs now, salt/magnesium chloride, its been a drastic change. Many rigs that dont get cleaned off during winter have the custom rust belt look where 1/4 of the fenders and rockers are missing. I run mine through a car wash that does under carriage spraying every week or so during deicing months to try and slow the process. It seems to work based on looking at the long time residents that do that va those that say fuck it.


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oil.

oil errywhere.

then go drive down a gravel road.
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:36 PM   #865 (permalink)
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Just showed 17 yo daughter (by marriage) how to change the Elantra brake light bulb. Honestly less than 3 minutes. Standard everyday bulb available anywhere, even some gas stations. Hyundai, Made in Birmingham Alabama USA. No doubt Korean engineers had a say in this. Co-worker had an estimate of $600 on one of his Chevys, don't recall if it was Impala or ???
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Old 10-29-2019, 08:58 PM   #866 (permalink)
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I've come to love the torx.

embrace it.

there are five lights

You mean the welder flash as you use copious amounts of electricity to install a normal nut on to them to remove them?
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:17 PM   #867 (permalink)
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The lack of tow/attachment points on some chassis.

Toyota Tundra, 800 different points to secure it

GM truck, hope you have the right size hook

Toyota venza, go fuck yourself.

I can see why the professional car haulers use the tire strap over the tire hole in trailer floor thingys.
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Old 10-30-2019, 02:00 AM   #868 (permalink)
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I've come to love the torx.

embrace it.

there are five lights
4
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Old 10-30-2019, 05:49 AM   #869 (permalink)
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Old 10-30-2019, 06:16 AM   #870 (permalink)
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That plus a 8” C clamp, 3/8 breaker bar, and a 30” piece of pipe got it done. I greased the hell out of them and put it back together so I could move it. Going to NAPA monday morning. But both sides done.

Inside pad on both fronts was done with the outside wear in great shape. I am thinking maybe its the deicer that froze the caliper bolts. Wheres jimmynumbers and his tub and neverseize when you need him. It got new calipers, pads and rotors at the end of last winter. Now I just did rotors and pads again. Anyways. Fuck TORX fasteners.


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FYI, your inside pad is burning up because there is rust under the stainless steel slides on the calipers. It expands and wont let the pads float. Pull the pads and grind open the slide groove another 1/8", pull the stainless slides, knock the rust off and grease the hell out of them with high temp grease. You'll have to do it again in after a salty winter if you have them.
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Old 10-30-2019, 08:16 AM   #871 (permalink)
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What in the actual fuck is going on here? If you would leave the caliper bracket bolted to the knuckle, and turn the wheel to the left, you can put a breaker bar or impact on the slide bolts. And you wouldn't have all this ratchet strap and firewood fuckery going on.
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Old 10-30-2019, 08:24 AM   #872 (permalink)
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that ain't rust, everything under there looks practically new


I get it compared to the east coat/rust belt. Not trying to say it is. But compared to when I lived where they used only sand vs now, salt/magnesium chloride, its been a drastic change. Many rigs that dont get cleaned off during winter have the custom rust belt look where 1/4 of the fenders and rockers are missing. I run mine through a car wash that does under carriage spraying every week or so during deicing months to try and slow the process. It seems to work based on looking at the long time residents that do that va those that say fuck it.


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I used to do under washes and it barely helped and was wasting money. I tried Fluid Film a few years back and that shit plain works. One $60 gallon does entire truck and I can forget about it all winter. No more car washes.

If only the PO used it then this 4runner would be rust free.

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Old 10-30-2019, 08:38 AM   #873 (permalink)
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FYI, your inside pad is burning up because there is rust under the stainless steel slides on the calipers. It expands and wont let the pads float. Pull the pads and grind open the slide groove another 1/8", pull the stainless slides, knock the rust off and grease the hell out of them with high temp grease. You'll have to do it again in after a salty winter if you have them.
Or just don't run the stainless bits and grease the fuck out of the slides. The pad will wear its own rust free spot. The stainless cover doesn't move and rust builds up under it reducing clearance until the pad can't slide.
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Old 10-30-2019, 09:10 AM   #874 (permalink)
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Or just don't run the stainless bits and grease the fuck out of the slides. The pad will wear its own rust free spot. The stainless cover doesn't move and rust builds up under it reducing clearance until the pad can't slide.
Or that.... As long as you can keep it greased
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Old 11-07-2019, 07:32 AM   #875 (permalink)
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