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Old 03-14-2017, 09:15 AM   #101 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by makemeknowit View Post
Had an '89 Cutlass Supreme and it needed rear brake pads. Picked some up, yanked the tire/wheel to get after it. The only other car I had owned with 4 wheel disc was a '79 Trans Am which I had replaced the brakes on as well. On the Trans Am I put a c-clamp on the caliper and pushed the piston back so the new pads had enough room to fit. So I slap the c-clamp on the Cutlass caliper and crank the shit out of it to no avail.....won't collapse....WTF!!

This is when I learned that the rear pistons screw in and out on the Cutlass, they don't just extend and collapse. Wound up having to rebuild the caliper and bought the appropriate tool for rotating the piston in the bore
Did that on a 10' Accord. Didn't damage the caliber luckily.
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:16 AM   #102 (permalink)
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rebuilt the 3.0 in my 88 4 runner. while installing it in the rig i could not get the pilot
shaft to slide into the pilot bearing. tried tilting, shaking ,rocking the engine--things
that have always worked in the past to no avail. shook my head and walked away for
a while. when i came back to the truck i sat down in the drivers seat and grabbed
the shifter--damn thing was in netural --stuck it in gear went back the the engine
and gave it just a little wiggle --- boom it slid right in. i giggle about that day often.
felt like a complete dumbass.
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:35 AM   #103 (permalink)
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Girlfriend has a Yj with 8.8 in the back. We noticed a weird clunking noise while coasting on the road, hard to diagnose while moving with mud tires, jacked it up and couldn't replicate.

I pulled trans, replaced throwout bearing and cleaned the mouse nest out of the fingers, re installed, removed front ds just to eliminate a quick easy thing it still did it.

Opened up rear end and noticed the arb cross pin head didn't look good so I replaced that.

Only after I wrapped that up and was bolting the wheels back on did I notice that the acorn lug nuts we had just put on weren't quite deep enough for the 8.8 studs, and the holes in the wheel we're slowly getting wallowed out.

New wheels and lugs later it's all good
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:56 AM   #104 (permalink)
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Back when I was in high school, had a buddy who had just bought a mint '91 Mercury Grand Marquis off the old neighbor down the street. While he was driving home one day, he blew a transmission line and thought he could continue driving. Smoked the transmission and didn't know what to do with the car, so I bought it from him for $500.

I towed the car home, pulled tranny, did full rebuild and got it put back together. Drove the car for a week before intake manifold started leaking oil. No biggie....dad and I decide to knock it out real quick on Thanksgiving morning before guests arrived. We're working together flying through it and finishing up as family is supposed to be pulling in, so dad goes in the house to get ready and tells me to finish up. I wrap everything up and we enjoy a nice dinner. After everyone leaves, I decide to go join the girlfriend's family for dinner. Roughly 3 miles from home, the transmission starts acting real funny, not shifting properly, etc. I call dad and tell him what's going on, he asks "You did reconnect the TV cable, right"? My response to him of course was "what TV cable, I never disconnected one"?

Yep, he had pulled it while we were working together, and I didn't realize it when he left me to reassemble everything...so time for 2nd transmission rebuild within a month.
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:03 PM   #105 (permalink)
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The truck starts to roll down the driveway.
Miraculously, I did not panic or freeze.
Had a similar experience with a '77 Dodge power wagon while trying to adjust the shift linkage. I had placed a 2x4 block under the rear wheels but the truck just rolled over those once the tranny popped out of park. I ended up grabbing the brush bar once the bumper came into view above me and let the truck pull me up off the ground.

Once I got the truck back in the driveway I stuck a couple of huge logs behind the tires.
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:07 PM   #106 (permalink)
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and my wife wondered why I had to have a wheel chock.....
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Old 03-14-2017, 02:03 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Yakataga View Post
Had a similar experience with a '77 Dodge power wagon while trying to adjust the shift linkage. I had placed a 2x4 block under the rear wheels but the truck just rolled over those once the tranny popped out of park. I ended up grabbing the brush bar once the bumper came into view above me and let the truck pull me up off the ground.

Once I got the truck back in the driveway I stuck a couple of huge logs behind the tires.
I didn't have any time. This is/was a 2wd. It is unlikely I would have cleared the dangly bits in the front of it. At worst I would have stopped the truck via my head crammed under the oil pan or something. I'm not sure what all hangs low in front, but I wouldn't want it driving over me to find out.
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Old 03-14-2017, 02:05 PM   #108 (permalink)
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and my wife wondered why I had to have a wheel chock.....
I'm always super careful working on stuff, especially when I am by myself.

However, when you're working on electrical crap, your mind just isn't worried about the truck rolling off on you. I mean, it might be after hearing that story, but my only safety concerns were shorts, electrical fires, blown fuses... that kind of stuff. Totally different gear... pun intended.
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:06 PM   #109 (permalink)
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I may or may not have butchered a wiring harness in a unibody Jeep because the battery was going dead and made it appear that a lot of circuits were not working correctly.

In my defense the wiring harness was already fucked up. But I should have noticed something was off when I kept getting 9-10V in a lot of places. "That's not good, there must be too much corrosion on the fuse panel connectors!"

At least I did check the fuses before butchering.
haha
pulled and put back in a starter 5 times in the freezing cold blowing wind at midnight

battery terminals were corroded, and the jumper cables I was putting power directly to the starter with only let through enough juice to clunk the pole-shoe ford starter, making me think the starter was the problem
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:13 PM   #110 (permalink)
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My biggest fuck up wasn't all my fault.
I ordered a new clutch kit and decided to install it myself as it was for my trailer rig and not my DD. Everything seemed to bolt up no problem but it wouldn't disengage the clutch. So.. I had to tear it back apart recheck everything and figured it was the throw out bearing has installed wrong or my slave cylinder weak. Fixed all that... and still wasn't working.
I ended up taking my truck in for a cage and told him to fix it... he had to do it twice, too. Ends up the wrong throw out bearing was sent with the new kit. Fuckin' A.
heh
trying to stick a NP435 behind a 7.3 IDI, got a BBF bellhousing, redrilled the three holes it needed redrilled, clutch wouldn't disengage, made a smaller bore slave cylinder to get more throwout travel, still doesn't disengage. Pull it apart and the pilot bearing's smashed into the crank.

Turned out I got a 400M bellhousing rather than a 460. The 400m has 3/8" or so less crank flange stickout than the 460 or 6.9/7.3.

I've got a lot of these stories. FML
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:17 PM   #111 (permalink)
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This is when I learned that the rear pistons screw in and out on the Cutlass, they don't just extend and collapse. Wound up having to rebuild the caliper and bought the appropriate tool for rotating the piston in the bore
friend at work diag'd a siezed screw in caliper on a ford freestyle, the right rear is left hand thread, and the reasonably priced tool to squeeze them is right hand thread, so you've got to fiddle a lot with back and forth. They make a left hand thread screw one, but fuck buying one for the three I see a year.

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Old 03-14-2017, 09:04 PM   #112 (permalink)
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I once bolted a caliper onto a brand new rotor with no pads, got in the car to pump the pedal to take up slack and promptly pushed the piston out of the caliper.

Turning a 60 minute quickie brake job into a 3 hour time to bleed the brakes fuck me the master went dry ordeal.
Holy fucking shit I hate bleeding brakes! I once used a short 2x4 and the power seat. Cause I hate dealing with most helpers.

Hey what do you think of a electric actuator, powered by plug into cig lighter, that would Grab the brake pedal and pushing from a pad at the seat be remote control

Maybe just a Specail "push bar" and power seats.
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:12 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Whatever, bench bleed master, after that happens, will not take 3 hours next time.
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:27 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Whatever, bench bleed master, after that happens, will not take 3 hours next time.
Your Location. Do do dee do dah lala

His location, probably would have snapped the studs off the booster or twisted what was left of the flare nut off. Snapped bleeders etc. few want to tear out all the garbage just the key component is what it is.
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:28 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Holy fucking shit I hate bleeding brakes! I once used a short 2x4 and the power seat. Cause I hate dealing with most helpers.

Hey what do you think of a electric actuator, powered by plug into cig lighter, that would Grab the brake pedal and pushing from a pad at the seat be remote control

Maybe just a Specail "push bar" and power seats.
Kind of already a thing, at least for towing...

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-39504...ds=brake+buddy

Not worth $1000 to me, but I suppose if you don't have many buddies and might use it in a car...
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:31 PM   #116 (permalink)
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Kind of already a thing, at least for towing...

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-39504...ds=brake+buddy

Not worth $1000 to me, but I suppose if you don't have many buddies and might use it in a car...
$1000! Lol I have an Actuator off a treadmill. 24v though..., easy enough. I think.
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:37 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Your Location. Do do dee do dah lala

His location, probably would have snapped the studs off the booster or twisted what was left of the flare nut off. Snapped bleeders etc. few want to tear out all the garbage just the key component is what it is.
Ya, i feel sorry for the mechanics in other states. I think i saw rust today.... might have been spilled paint, or a burger patty.
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:47 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Holy fucking shit I hate bleeding brakes! I once used a short 2x4 and the power seat. Cause I hate dealing with most helpers.

Hey what do you think of a electric actuator, powered by plug into cig lighter, that would Grab the brake pedal and pushing from a pad at the seat be remote control

Maybe just a Specail "push bar" and power seats.
you retarded?
section of vacuum hose on the bleeder into a soda bottle
pump the pedal
done
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:48 PM   #119 (permalink)
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I built a SBC 350 in high school, it ran for a year or so, and I decided to swap to 1.6 rockers.
Dropped a rocker nut straight down the oil drain hole in the head. After much deliberation, and finally realizing I needed to drive the truck that night, and I didn't have an extra nut I pulled the pan and got it out.

A few months later, I put a different set of heads on the engine, and did the same damn thing, except the nut went down the distributor hole.
Same deal, pull the pan, which sucks with the motor in the truck.

I now make sure to cover all openings when I'm working inside an engine.
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:53 PM   #120 (permalink)
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I built a SBC 350 in high school, it ran for a year or so, and I decided to swap to 1.6 rockers.
Dropped a rocker nut straight down the oil drain hole in the head. After much deliberation, and finally realizing I needed to drive the truck that night, and I didn't have an extra nut I pulled the pan and got it out.

A few months later, I put a different set of heads on the engine, and did the same damn thing, except the nut went down the distributor hole.
Same deal, pull the pan, which sucks with the motor in the truck.

I now make sure to cover all openings when I'm working inside an engine.
Your parents tried to do the same and failed.
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:09 PM   #121 (permalink)
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you retarded?
section of vacuum hose on the bleeder into a soda bottle
pump the pedal
done
That's too much work. HF vacuum bleeder, hook up air, crack bleeder screw, close bleeder screw.
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:12 PM   #122 (permalink)
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That's too much work. HF vacuum bleeder, hook up air, crack bleeder screw, close bleeder screw.
I put a finger over the bleed screw as someone pumps the peddle, acts like a one way check valve.
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:14 PM   #123 (permalink)
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That's too much work. HF vacuum bleeder, hook up air, crack bleeder screw, close bleeder screw.
That requires buying things that are tool-shaped.

I have been meaning to add a vacuum ejector to my ancient mityvac fluid sucker, though. Hand pump on it's finally worn out to where I don't care to fix it again.

Last edited by [486]; 03-14-2017 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:15 PM   #124 (permalink)
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I put a finger over the bleed screw as someone pumps the peddle, acts like a one way check valve.
still needs two people, the fluid in the bottom of the soda bottle acts as the check valve
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:17 PM   #125 (permalink)
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still needs two people, the fluid in the bottom of the soda bottle acts as the check valve
I have kids.
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