What to check after battery explodes in my camper? - Page 2 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 08-26-2017, 05:55 PM   #26 (permalink)
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https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Vents-an...SABEgK6WfD_BwE
I know people are thinking your problem was overcharging but if you feel like you have gases building up in the area this is cheap insurance.
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Old 08-26-2017, 06:08 PM   #27 (permalink)
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So you think some kind of gas buildup happened, and that it caused the battery to explode? No.
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Old 08-26-2017, 06:28 PM   #28 (permalink)
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So you think some kind of gas buildup happened, and that it caused the battery to explode? No.
OK, what is your explanation?
My guess is the battery got cooked and shorted internally causing the gas to explode.
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Old 08-26-2017, 06:47 PM   #29 (permalink)
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OK, what is your explanation?
My guess is the battery got cooked and shorted internally causing the gas to explode.
Clearly the battery exploded, stuff came out of the inside of the battery. Really there are only 2 ways this happens. A dead short or it got cooked by a "converter" and when boom. I suppose it could have had a good charger and just ran very low on water over time and got hot and popped, too.
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Old 08-27-2017, 10:10 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Clearly the battery exploded, stuff came out of the inside of the battery. Really there are only 2 ways this happens. A dead short or it got cooked by a "converter" and when boom. I suppose it could have had a good charger and just ran very low on water over time and got hot and popped, too.
Most likely explanation is: Electrolyte level ended up below top of plates (bad) and plates shorted/sparked igniting hydrogen in top of battery case. There's usually 3/4-1" of gap (or more) from the top of the plates to the bottom of the fill caps. Less liquid = more space for hydrogen = bigger boom.

If the charger is output is 13.2 to 13.5 VDC it's good, if it's13.5-14 VDC, it's ok (but may shorten battery life and/or will likely require shorter maintenance intervals). Chances are that battery maintenance was the issue. Charging causes the water in the electrolyte to evaporate, and should (ideally) be topped up with distilled water to keep the levels above the top of the plates. (I couldn't tell if it was a maintenance free battery in the pic)

Definitely a newer "smarter" charger is a good idea. I've had good experiences with the small Xantrex stuff.

Regardless of charger type, keeping an eye on battery electrolyte level is critical, especially if you leave them on constant charge.
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Last edited by chainsawron; 08-28-2017 at 03:00 AM. Reason: Corrected charge voltage
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Old 08-27-2017, 12:44 PM   #31 (permalink)
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What am I missing?

In the first photo of the link above, there appears to be a round burn mark on the floor.

Heat rises.

What are they implying was burning the floor below the unit?



EDIT:

I think I get it. The charging coil looking thing has been removed in the pic. It's what converts the voltage from 120V to 13'ish volts isn't it?
Yes. Those units convert 120 to ~12volt. Most aren't smart chargers and just throw a constant amperage. So leaving them plugged in with no load cooks the battery just like an old battery charger will.

I've seen plenty of bad coils but I haven't seen them get hat enough to burn the floor beneath them. Maybe the newer ones don't have as much shielding.
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Old 08-27-2017, 12:55 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Really common for an OEM Converter to ruin your battery, no matter how old or new it is. Here's some info all gathered in one place: Magnetek/Parallax to Ultra III

Best Converter is good to deal with, pretty quick and easy.
Thanks for the link. They are using the intellipower charger. I have one in my camper and I really like it.

After my dad cooked several batteries in his 5th wheel we put in a 75 amp intellipower unit. I tried to figure out a way to fit it in the factory unit but decided it was going to be a pain. Also I think the 30' run was too much for the amperage they were trying to push on the shitty 6 ga.

I mounted it close to the batteries and hooked it up with 4ga. I might have paid the extra to get one of these. It would have been quicker and we could have just downsized the amps to work with the 6ga.
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