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Old 12-01-2017, 06:17 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I have a 2002 Ford F-150 7700 Series. 5.4 with the heavier transmission, rear end and suspension. 193K with no engine or transmission problems. Does need a little more weight on the ass end to ride better, but does the job perfectly.
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Old 12-01-2017, 06:20 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Once again, no clue what a Vermont truck entails. I'm just speaking on the market.

If you want to keep it, heed the fanboy advice and pass on the trade.

If you want to pad your pocket, tell the fanboys to fuck off. It's a sub $5k 75k 4x4 truck. It'll sell quick. Your average buyer won't obsess about spark plugs. They see the specs given for a price point, make a sure it aligns with their value guide of choice, and buy shit.
If it is a Vermont truck it is probably rusty to the point of being junk to anyone outside of states that salt the roads.
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Old 12-01-2017, 07:20 PM   #28 (permalink)
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About a year ago I saw a 2002 F-150 supercrew 4x4 with 90K miles sell for $9500 in a day and a half. It was a clean one owner truck and a supercrew but if the truck you speak of is in good shape I don't see why you couldn't get $5k out of it. Hell A coworker bought a 2000 F-150 cab and a half with 190k miles for $3400. I would think most would rather spend $1500 more and get a truck with over 100k less miles.

Remember always trade up. No point to trade even unless you really want the truck.
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Old 12-01-2017, 07:32 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I have a 2002 Ford F-150 7700 Series. 5.4 with the heavier transmission, rear end and suspension. 193K with no engine or transmission problems. Does need a little more weight on the ass end to ride better, but does the job perfectly.
I had one of those, only thing was the ugly 7 bolt rims you were stuck with.
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Old 12-01-2017, 07:33 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Having owed a lot of the 5.4 and 6.8 V-10's , I have only popped two plugs, each one cost less then a $100 to fix and was never a issue again. I also change my own plugs, this is no harder to do then any other modern V8 or V6 , yea you have to reach back further to get at the last two plus, but it is not hard compared to any other repair. btw if you use the factory Motorcraft Platinum plugs, you only have to change about every 100,000 miles.

I will take modern style engine that lasts 300k over the older push rod engine that barely lasted 90k with out a rebuild. Chevy and Dodge engine also have their issues as well.

Fact is push rod engine do not hold up , timing chains, fuel pumps, carbs, ignitions systems, plu
My 7.3 IDI has waay, wayy more than 300K miles on it. Still runs strong.
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Old 12-01-2017, 07:35 PM   #31 (permalink)
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My 7.3 IDI has waay, wayy more than 300K miles on it. Still runs strong.
One of the best diesel engines made .
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Old 12-01-2017, 07:45 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I will take modern style engine that lasts 300k over the older push rod engine that barely lasted 90k with out a rebuild. Chevy and Dodge engine also have their issues as well.

Fact is push rod engine do not hold up , timing chains, fuel pumps, carbs, ignitions systems, plu
Lol. What is this? Ford 5.4 suck. Mile long timing chain, guides, tensioners, phasers, coil on plugs, etc.

A push rod motor like a Chevy 5.3 or 5.7 will go well past 300k with normal maintenance. Hell, their timing chain components arenít even considered as a wear item. Their ignition coils donít go bad as often either.

5.4 is okay but as someone already said, Iíll take a Chevy any day if I have a choice

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One of the best diesel engines made .
Yeah, not a powerhouse and hardly can hurt itself.
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Old 12-01-2017, 07:57 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Yeah, not a powerhouse and hardly can hurt itself.
yea they are slow

1/8th mile drag race. 7.3 runs a 9.1.

Stock 7.3 with a basic tuner did 9.4 sec in the 1/8th mile at 75.xx mph
'97 Ford F-250 has been as quick as 7.0 in the eighth-mile on a little juice.

Few of them have close to thousand ponies under the hood,
yea they are old and slow....
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Old 12-01-2017, 08:13 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I've yet to meet anyone in person that hasn't done timing tensioners or had plug issues.
Keep on bleeding blue, someone has to buy them.
A little off base cause mines newer and you said "in person", but 242k on my 06 f150 5.4. Saw the carfax, no tensioners done, no cam phasers done and I've done the plugs once and am due to do them again. No issues with them, take out, nickle antiseeze on new and torque them down.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:00 PM   #35 (permalink)
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There's a real nasty additive that they sell behind the counter at ford that fixes this, btw..
4r70w. Crown vic has the same tranny. I know the red tube stuff you are talking about.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:15 PM   #36 (permalink)
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4r70w. Crown vic has the same tranny. I know the red tube stuff you are talking about.
Yep guess itís a friction modifier for the posi rear ends that actually helps win that problem? Dunno.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:19 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Our crown didn't have the O.D shudder, the tube stuff helped smooth out torque converter lockup. I thought it was snake oil, but it actually worked well.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:40 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Good deal. You got a good one and you change your oil!

I've yet to meet anyone in person that hasn't done timing tensioners or had plug issues.
Keep on bleeding blue, someone has to buy them.
Just stating the facts I know about my 2v. Never had tensioners or phasers done or had plug issues. If that means I bleed blue, then I guess I do.
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Old 12-01-2017, 11:14 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Just stating the facts I know about my 2v. Never had tensioners or phasers done or had plug issues. If that means I bleed blue, then I guess I do.
Yeah, you should change your name to ford guy and go into chevy specific threads and talk shit on them.
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Old 12-02-2017, 12:20 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Yah, it is a big deal.

The reason being that Ford was having issues meeting their crash test rating performance goals around that time (IIRC) and so they came up with the great idea of moving the motor further back into the firewall.

So the motor is literally up against the firewall of the cab. With the upper liner of the cab kindof wraps around the top of the motor and doesnt allow easy acess into the spark plug holes. To reach the plugs, you have to use two universal joints on extensions to get to the last two plugs furthest back.

Thats kindof why the spark plugs pop out of the head anyways. People and careless mechanics wont get an appropriate torque on the plug when installing the new one, since its such a mess to get in there, so they just say "fuck it, i got it in there good". Then 10K later, *POP*.

Which, normally, NBD, install helicoil and call it a day. Nope. The spark tunnel is super long and you can get down in there since the firewall is not letting you line it up right. You dont want to fuck up the helicoil too, so whats the next step?

Well, this is the same issue the 6.0L's were facing around this time too. Pulling the motor out is a huge PITA. Its just easier to pull the whole cab off the truck. How fucked up of a design for an engine bay is it for it to be easier to pull the whole body off the frame to work in it than pulling the motor? Hence why head gasket jobs on 6.0L's are like $8000 from a shop.

So, Ok, not pulling the body off. Lets just risk the helicoil and see how it goes.

5k miles later, *POP*. New motor time.
Have you ever actually done plugs on one of these? It is not a big deal. I use a 6" extension with no universal joints on the rear plugs no problem. The plugs blow out because of design not torque. No big deal to rethread the hole. I have seen some with over 300K never have an issue and some with 20k that have spit multiple plugs. Either way it is an easy fix even on the back plugs.
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Old 12-04-2017, 08:57 AM   #41 (permalink)
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FWIW,

I still DD my 04 F150 5.4. 305k miles and runs great. Been a great truck. No spark plug issues.
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:11 AM   #42 (permalink)
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I had one of those, only thing was the ugly 7 bolt rims you were stuck with.
I would call myself a Ford fan for the most part, and I have no fucking clue what they were thinking on that one. How hard is it to make a stronger 6 lug or just go 8 lug?

I remember absolutely hating the jelly bean body when it came out. First one I got a close look at was a 7700 that a buddy's dad had. Fucking awful compared to the older trucks, but I will say, I see a whole lot of them on the road still, and I know a lot of people who have gotten damn good reliability out of the '97-03 F-150 and 250 7700s.
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:56 AM   #43 (permalink)
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No big deal to rethread the hole.
Agree, I couldn't believe how easy it was to fix correctly using the kit from Lock n Stitch, not cheap steel helicoils. The lock n stitch is a alum insert with a locking pin to keep the insert from backing out. Also with the alum it has a factory heat transfer from the plug to the head.

I have one at 100k that someones shitty heli coil came out and I did it right. I have a truck with 260k on it without a screwed up one surprisingly.

I think all the topend issues don't exist if you run 0 or 5/w20 full syn along with a filter that has a good silicone anti drainback valve.

Too many people tried to treat the motor like a standard pushrod not understanding the tighter tolerances and their affects.

If we are going to bitch about maintenance then I would rather go back to my straight six.
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:06 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Have you ever actually done plugs on one of these? It is not a big deal. I use a 6" extension with no universal joints on the rear plugs no problem. The plugs blow out because of design not torque. No big deal to rethread the hole. I have seen some with over 300K never have an issue and some with 20k that have spit multiple plugs. Either way it is an easy fix even on the back plugs.
Yah i did a set once on my personal truck. But they didnt blow out until a much later date.

Although, my data might be corrupt since mine was a 2001 with 288K on it (original with no rebuild) when the plug finally shot out.
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