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Old 12-21-2017, 10:58 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Little known fact that those motorcraft 2100's are one of the only carbs that will run with the top removed. I put one on my 4.2 and couldn't be happier, now it has like a 93% duty cycle

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Old 12-21-2017, 01:23 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Actually try boiling it for 20 minutes in a pot of cream of tartar and water, it works to clean aluminum pots/pans.
i was thinking just run it thru the dishwasher, but your idea might be better!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potassium_bitartrate

looks like some acid will need to be added to the pot for best results.
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Old 12-21-2017, 01:48 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Little known fact that those motorcraft 2100's are one of the only carbs that will run with the top removed. I put one on my 4.2 and couldn't be happier, now it has like a 93% duty cycle

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Which adapter/gaskets did you use? I'm going back to stock stuff on my Scrambler, putting a 1.08 2100 on a stock intake.
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Old 12-21-2017, 04:30 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Little known fact that those motorcraft 2100's are one of the only carbs that will run with the top removed. I put one on my 4.2 and couldn't be happier, now it has like a 93% duty cycle

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Yep. Watched my crusty old buddy tuning one in a mach 1, dropping the ash off his cigarette into the bowl
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Old 12-21-2017, 09:18 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Which adapter/gaskets did you use? I'm going back to stock stuff on my Scrambler, putting a 1.08 2100 on a stock intake.
I think it was Mr gasket, but I don't remember what the number was.

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Old 12-21-2017, 09:35 PM   #56 (permalink)
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looks like some acid will need to be added to the pot for best results.
At times, that seems to be Screwy's chosen drug combination before posting on PBB
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Old 09-25-2018, 04:54 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Bumping an old post because @jr4x seems to know a little about Holley/Motorcraft carbs, what would I order to rebuild this clam?
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Old 09-25-2018, 08:17 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Wow, that's one corroded piece!
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Old 09-26-2018, 07:24 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Bumping an old post because @jr4x seems to know a little about Holley/Motorcraft carbs, what would I order to rebuild this clam?
What's it for and what climate do you need it work in? Daily driver? Trail rig? Or just an old yard truck?

That's a newer carb off a late 70's truck or car. Getting the electric choke to work right can be pretty difficult so I like to just delete the choke all together, but where I live not having a choke isn't an issue.

My go to rebuild kit is to go to any parts store counter and ask for this. "I need a carburetor rebuild kit for a 1975 F250 camper special with a 390 and an automatic". Autozone part number 96-215, O'reilly part number 15369D, They are $20 even bucks at both locations. Or if you go to Napa I believe they sell motorcraft brand.
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Old 09-26-2018, 07:50 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Wow, that's one corroded piece!
Shit that's my clean one!

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Originally Posted by jr4x View Post
What's it for and what climate do you need it work in? Daily driver? Trail rig? Or just an old yard truck? NE, would like to beable to use it in the winter, trail rig, carb was on an 84 F250 with a 351w, but the motor was a reman, so can't confirm carb is original. has the heat riser choke

That's a newer carb off a late 70's truck or car. Getting the electric choke to work right can be pretty difficult so I like to just delete the choke all together, but where I live not having a choke isn't an issue. How hard would it be to just put a manual choke cable on it?

My go to rebuild kit is to go to any parts store counter and ask for this. "I need a carburetor rebuild kit for a 1975 F250 camper special with a 390 and an automatic". Autozone part number 96-215, O'reilly part number 15369D, They are $20 even bucks at both locations. Or if you go to Napa I believe they sell motorcraft brand.Decent advice. Thank you
I just want it to work better than the POS Edelbrock on my wheeler.
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Old 09-26-2018, 08:21 AM   #61 (permalink)
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NO

You're thinking of the autolite 2150

got one of those sitting on my old Ford. It's a good runner for sure, and steep hills don't seem to bother it.
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Old 09-26-2018, 07:00 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Bumping an old post because @jr4x seems to know a little about Holley/Motorcraft carbs, what would I order to rebuild this clam?
First off, clean your fucking shop, its messing with my OCD. You should be ashamed of yourself.
Second, get another carb. That thing probably has holes in it.
Third, you have brought no ashtray tech to this thread. Lets try to stay on topic.
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Old 09-26-2018, 07:03 PM   #63 (permalink)
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a crock pot filled with green coolant concentrate will clean aluminum fantastically if you dro pit in there for about 12 hours.

it's how we used to get the burnt castor oil shit off of glow engines.
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Old 09-27-2018, 06:21 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Shit that's my clean one!



I just want it to work better than the POS Edelbrock on my wheeler.
That's most likely not the original carb from the truck. An 84 should have had a 2150, basically the same animal as 2100 with some extra vacuum emissions shit that you don't want so this is a good thing.

That kit I shared with you will have everything you need to go through the carb you have and that thing looks fine to me. You might have some learning to do to make the choke work right but it can be done. For less than 50$ on tune up parts you should be able to make that thing purr again.

Edit: I guess I should ask, does it run just not run great?
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Old 09-27-2018, 06:25 AM   #65 (permalink)
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First off, clean your fucking shop, its messing with my OCD. You should be ashamed of yourself.
Second, get another carb. That thing probably has holes in it.
Third, you have brought no ashtray tech to this thread. Lets try to stay on topic.
First off, frig off, that's my basement piled up shit table, its a jumbled mess of everything and I'm glad it bothers your OCD

Second, holes? Where would there be holes? Some of us don't live in the magic rust free corrosion free states. This came off a running truck, but the top gasket was pissing. I've rebuilt much worse, but I had an ID tag to figure out a rebuild kit.

Third, this is GCC, fuck the topic I'm the OP now I knew there was a thread where we digressed about carb identification, found it and bumped it. My searcher works (no array here )

Thanks for your wonderful insight, its greatly appreciated
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Old 09-27-2018, 06:32 AM   #66 (permalink)
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That's most likely not the original carb from the truck. An 84 should have had a 2150, basically the same animal as 2100 with some extra vacuum emissions shit that you don't want so this is a good thing.

That kit I shared with you will have everything you need to go through the carb you have and that thing looks fine to me. You might have some learning to do to make the choke work right but it can be done. For less than 50$ on tune up parts you should be able to make that thing purr again.

Edit: I guess I should ask, does it run just not run great?
That's pretty much what I assumed, that it wasn't original. Choke shouldn't be too much of an issue, I'll figure that out.

Does what run? With the 2 barrel it ran awful, but with the lack luster adapter and what I'm assuming was leaking gaskets in the dirty carb, I'm not surprised. Tore it off a few winters ago when I was given a 4 barrel Edlebrock 600, runs like a raped ape on the road, but offroad its marginal.

Thinking about tearing some shit apart on the truck to make it more capable instead of a road queen on 39.5s making it run better crawling is high on the list, along with moving the low hanging poly gas tank
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Old 09-27-2018, 08:22 AM   #67 (permalink)
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That's pretty much what I assumed, that it wasn't original. Choke shouldn't be too much of an issue, I'll figure that out.

Does what run? With the 2 barrel it ran awful, but with the lack luster adapter and what I'm assuming was leaking gaskets in the dirty carb, I'm not surprised. Tore it off a few winters ago when I was given a 4 barrel Edlebrock 600, runs like a raped ape on the road, but offroad its marginal.

Thinking about tearing some shit apart on the truck to make it more capable instead of a road queen on 39.5s making it run better crawling is high on the list, along with moving the low hanging poly gas tank
The edlebrock performer is about my least favorite carb BUT for about the same dollars you can make it work offroad and keep your on road performance. a fuel pressure regulator and Spring loaded needle/seats and lowering the floats to their minimum will help it immensely for running around fire roads and regular wheeling. I kept a 500 horse BBC Chevrolet running with an 850 Edelbrock performer for years and it did fine with clutch side step launches bouncing around and everything a heavy duty 3/4 ton could throw at it.

That 2100 is going to rule offroad but you may miss the top end that the Edelbrock was affording you. The reason is because of float bowl depth and bowl vent design. The performer is pretty much designed to slosh fuel into the intake runners and has extremely shallow bowls on top of that. The MC 2100 has twice as deep of a fuel bowl and then has vent towers above that. Many people don't like how the performers feel compared to a holley or a quadrajet because a performer doesn't have the 4bbl kick in. That's actually what's good about them, if you don't feel the secondaries come on with an extra kick then the metering rods and stepper springs are correct for the engine and it just has a smooth acceleration like a two bbl would have.

The 2100 will clatter around in the woods all day without ever even stumbling but it won't run that engine above 4000 rpm, and you'll really feel it start to fall on it's face at about 3800 rpm. It just doesn't have the CFM required to to run at small block rpm's. Gay question, do you have facebook?
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Old 09-27-2018, 09:06 AM   #68 (permalink)
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The edlebrock performer is about my least favorite carb BUT for about the same dollars you can make it work offroad and keep your on road performance. a fuel pressure regulator and Spring loaded needle/seats and lowering the floats to their minimum will help it immensely for running around fire roads and regular wheeling. I kept a 500 horse BBC Chevrolet running with an 850 Edelbrock performer for years and it did fine with clutch side step launches bouncing around and everything a heavy duty 3/4 ton could throw at it.

That 2100 is going to rule offroad but you may miss the top end that the Edelbrock was affording you. The reason is because of float bowl depth and bowl vent design. The performer is pretty much designed to slosh fuel into the intake runners and has extremely shallow bowls on top of that. The MC 2100 has twice as deep of a fuel bowl and then has vent towers above that. Many people don't like how the performers feel compared to a holley or a quadrajet because a performer doesn't have the 4bbl kick in. That's actually what's good about them, if you don't feel the secondaries come on with an extra kick then the metering rods and stepper springs are correct for the engine and it just has a smooth acceleration like a two bbl would have.

The 2100 will clatter around in the woods all day without ever even stumbling but it won't run that engine above 4000 rpm, and you'll really feel it start to fall on it's face at about 3800 rpm. It just doesn't have the CFM required to to run at small block rpm's. Gay question, do you have facebook?
Holy fuckin carb tech in 2018

I'm running a Holley bypass regulator currently, Still have the HP in tank pump, regulates it down to 4 psi and dumps the excess in the factory return line. Not the greatest setup but its worked so far. I've never cracked the carb open, I had heard the spring loaded needles and seats were a marginal upgrade, but the float level makes good sense.

Truck was built as a mud truck when everyone played on the powerlines. All those friends sold out for SxSs. We have a group of decent Jeepers who run the technical class 6 roads that I've wheeled with some, but it runs so badly in the technical stuff and the climbs, that I wind up beating on it more than I need to be (Can't flood at WOT, right?) Just trying to revisit and improve.

Gay answer, yeah I'm on FB
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Old 09-27-2018, 09:35 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Gay answer, yeah I'm on FB

Check this out then. The gray truck on the right is a Late 80's 3/4 ton with a healthy BBC and 4 speed manual with an Edelbrock performer 850. The driver holds her foot to the floor till it floats the valves, sidesteps the clutch so it launches and this thing ran smooth as shit even in the rougher pits.

https://www.facebook.com/teresa.hink...user_video_tab
https://www.facebook.com/luke.garner...user_video_tab


This would be my old jeep with a built MC 2100, crappy video but what it shows is. It would run on its side without bobbling, without a puff of smoke and at a 700 rpm idle. Always in complete control with this thing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PmgWtv4uDs
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Old 09-27-2018, 10:41 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Check this out then. The gray truck on the right is a Late 80's 3/4 ton with a healthy BBC and 4 speed manual with an Edelbrock performer 850. The driver holds her foot to the floor till it floats the valves, sidesteps the clutch so it launches and this thing ran smooth as shit even in the rougher pits.

https://www.facebook.com/teresa.hink...user_video_tab
https://www.facebook.com/luke.garner...user_video_tab


This would be my old jeep with a built MC 2100, crappy video but what it shows is. It would run on its side without bobbling, without a puff of smoke and at a 700 rpm idle. Always in complete control with this thing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PmgWtv4uDs
FB is blocked at work, I'll watch them later, Jeep video is badass I'd take that and lose the top end over how it acts now, granted we don't have places like that here. The trails are a lot more greasy. Plus, 351w in a Ranger doesn't need a whole lot of top end, gets me in enough trouble as is
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Old 09-27-2018, 11:10 AM   #71 (permalink)
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FB is blocked at work, I'll watch them later, Jeep video is badass I'd take that and lose the top end over how it acts now, granted we don't have places like that here. The trails are a lot more greasy. Plus, 351w in a Ranger doesn't need a whole lot of top end, gets me in enough trouble as is
MC 2100's are so simple a monkey could rebuild it. Set the float low and run that same 4 psi you already run. The one in that jeep was a bigger one off an old 390 powered car. I had it stripped down to about 12 parts total excluding counting the fasteners (screws). You can adjust the float with the engine running and the top of the carburetor completely removed unlike any other carburetor.
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Old 09-28-2018, 04:27 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Yep. Watched my crusty old buddy tuning one in a mach 1, dropping the ash off his cigarette into the bowl
Style.
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Old 09-28-2018, 04:58 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Third, this is GCC, fuck the topic I'm the OP now I knew there was a thread where we digressed about carb identification, found it and bumped it.
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