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Old 01-30-2018, 04:17 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bremen242 View Post
In the PA rust belt, we are lucky to get ten years of a new vehicle before it rusts into oblivion.

When my '97 F250 rusts in half, i'll be going south to get another 93-97 that will take my drive train. It has 177k on it, and it is on the second motor because the previous never changed the spark plugs. 99% of the things that I have done on it are failures due to rust... brake lines, master cylinder, calipers, wheel cylinders, drums, rotors, entire exhaust, shackles, front and rear spring hangers, gas tank, front bumper, washer pump, vacuum lines, heater resistor, and ebrake cables.
You say 10 years but your truck is 20 years old ...I know guys who spray the underneath with Fluid Film every fall...Their shit looks a lot less rusty than mine.
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Old 01-30-2018, 04:25 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Of course. I meant where can i take my truck to get tuned? (wink wink)

I get it though. I dont have an issue with doing the work myself. Just wanted to talk to a knowledgeable shop and not some diesel ricer douche that wants to roll coal all day brah. You know what i mean? Im old. No need for loud exhaust on my tow rig. Looking for reliability to make it last another 10+ years.
I have had good luck in dealing with Double R Diesel on a few of my trucks. He is back east some place but seems to run a good shop. I have called him a couple times and left a message and he tends to call back within a day. He has some pretty fun MM3 tunes but is pretty open to most all other brands of tuning. In my dealings he is a stand up guy that will only give you what you are asking for.

We put a MM3 tuner from Double R in one of my guys personal trucks, and while totally impractical, one of his tunes made the 24 valve sound like the old 12 valve. My friend takes his trucks to shows and has been asked quite a few times why he put a 12 valve in a 4th gen Ram.

As far as the work to do the delete. The engine side is easy on a Cummins but getting the exhaust out can sometimes be a hassle but shouldn't be to bad on a '14. And if you follow the instructions, downloading the tune into the truck is pretty straight forward. Watch out on buying a tuner from Ebay as most are just Chinese knock offs with a generic tune in it and you wont get any customer support or warranty if you brick your ecm. Also remember that H&S does not support the Mini Maxx tuners anymore.
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Old 01-30-2018, 04:39 PM   #78 (permalink)
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I often wonder if someone has discovered a mathematical formula for buying trucks. Like If I buy a 2 year old truck used and put x miles on it and do x maint I can resale that truck and only end up out x dollars over that 12 month ownership period. Instead of the game where I drive it for 10 years and its worth jack when I'm done. I feel like I take a bath owning a truck until all the crap starts to fall apart. By crap I don't mean drive train but more the window moldings shrinking up, plastic starting to crack and fall off, door locks start not working, seats get ripped from in/out etc. That stuff drives me nuts but it's not breaking/failing due to my lack of maintenance of the truck.
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Old 01-30-2018, 05:02 PM   #79 (permalink)
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I often wonder if someone has discovered a mathematical formula for buying trucks. Like If I buy a 2 year old truck used and put x miles on it and do x maint I can resale that truck and only end up out x dollars over that 12 month ownership period. Instead of the game where I drive it for 10 years and its worth jack when I'm done. I feel like I take a bath owning a truck until all the crap starts to fall apart. By crap I don't mean drive train but more the window moldings shrinking up, plastic starting to crack and fall off, door locks start not working, seats get ripped from in/out etc. That stuff drives me nuts but it's not breaking/failing due to my lack of maintenance of the truck.
First off this is the nickle and dime stuff I was referring to nothing that was going to stop the truck dead, but the small stuff that adds up until it is not worth repairing on a truck with xxx,000 miles on it.

This is part of what I was working to figure out from my original post. The math isn't too hard if you have an assumed end of life. Again going back to Rooney's truck if you buy it for 26k put 80 thousand on it putting you at 250k on the clock, which is where a few people in this thread have put end of life, and then sell it off for 6k cause Cummins Bro those miles cost you $20,000. How many miles do you think you can put on a brand new truck and keep the deprecation down to the 20k mark?

And for those of you who think I am trying to justify a new truck I am pretty happy with my 05 Duramax with 95k on it Just trying to wrap my head around how the market will support used truck prices like we have been seeing.
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Old 01-30-2018, 05:10 PM   #80 (permalink)
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My 03 Tundra has 230k on it and runs/drives like it has 50k.

My 06 F350 has 180k and is on its second motor (V10) because someone else ignored a bad valve spring for way too long and the valve dropped onto the piston. Otherwise it should go to 300k with the original motor.

The 2001 Chevy 2500 with a 6.0 that I used to own was burning a ton of oil and generally a pos by 140k.
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Old 01-30-2018, 05:12 PM   #81 (permalink)
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The transmission does seem to have lockup issues from time to time, mostly when the truck isn't up to temp yet. It's always shifted like it's drunk, but it's been consistent. I've chalked that up to just being not the greatest trans in the world, and I'd love to swap a manual into it some day, but I don't want the thing to turn into a money pit either.
First thing I did when I bought mine was the servo upgrade to fix the 1-2 shuttle shift, and put a shift kit in it. It shifts a ton better, feels like a built trans even though I'm well aware it's not.
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Old 01-30-2018, 07:04 PM   #82 (permalink)
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You say 10 years but your truck is 20 years old ...I know guys who spray the underneath with Fluid Film every fall...Their shit looks a lot less rusty than mine.
Well, I had a 2000 F150, that I dumped in 2011. It was rusting-- the cab corners, door bottoms, and rockers were rusting out. I had to replace the rear brake line; it blew out in 2008 or 2009. Both gas tank straps popped; I think that Ford had a TSB/Recall for them.

The 2V 5.4L ran pretty good, but it had some weird tick that would go away when you would load up the motor. I am guessing that it was the cam phasers, but I traded it before finding out.

I am going to start treating whats left of my truck with something... por15 or toilet bowl wax... most parts aren't too bad; it was a jersey truck.
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:25 PM   #83 (permalink)
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First rule of delete club is DO NOT TALK PUBLICLY ABOUT DELETE CLUB. The second rule.... no diesel shop will advertise or admit they do it. Any place that will do it will only do it for cash no receipt and will deny ever having touched your vehicle. The EPA is actually raiding diesel shops and going through trucks in the shop as well as snooping through books looking for key words for things that mean something emissions illegal has been sold. Remember Edge got sued out of existence and H&S got sued and they lost and had to pay an enormous fine. The EPA is coming after anyone that would defeat emissions devices. The fine for 1st offense is $20,000, 2nd is loss of business license.

The best prices I know of for parts to build off-road only deleted trucks is Rudy's diesel performance. You will have to do the work yourself or find some one to do it cash under the table with parts you supplied. That work will not be warrantied in any way.


If only the fed gov would do that to the businesses that hire illegal immigrants .......
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:31 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Modern pickup lifespans

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Originally Posted by Jeep07 View Post
I often wonder if someone has discovered a mathematical formula for buying trucks. Like If I buy a 2 year old truck used and put x miles on it and do x maint I can resale that truck and only end up out x dollars over that 12 month ownership period. Instead of the game where I drive it for 10 years and its worth jack when I'm done. I feel like I take a bath owning a truck until all the crap starts to fall apart. By crap I don't mean drive train but more the window moldings shrinking up, plastic starting to crack and fall off, door locks start not working, seats get ripped from in/out etc. That stuff drives me nuts but it's not breaking/failing due to my lack of maintenance of the truck.


Hereís my math

In 2002 I bought a slightly wrecked 1996 4 runner limited with 100k on the clock for $7k, spent $2k on repairs
Drove it for several years till 2010 or something like that
And by then. It had 299k on it
Sold it for $2k So I was out $6k depreciation for 200k miles

To replace it in 2010 I bought a 04 expedition , with 110k off eBay for $6600
It now has 230k on it and it worth , I dunno, $4k ? $3k ?

So Iím out $2600 depreciation for 100k miles
BTW the original owner of the expy paid $52k for it , drove it 120k and sold it for $6600
I ainít ever gonna be that guy , that 120k miles cost them $45k !
The 120k miles I drove it will cost me about $3k
Or 45x less than what it cost the first owner to drive it the same distance , for those of you that went to a public school

If you have a small business and need the tax deduction buying a new crew cab 4wd truck every four years is fine
My bribed has a small side business , and his accountant has him buying a new truck every five years , he can pay the IRS $40k in taxes or pay GM $40k for a new truck and write it off

My next vehicle is gonna be a nice unmolested , unmodified , Unlifted ,88-91 K5 Blazer , which wonít depreciate at all since they are now going back up
I might actually make money driving it

Something like this
https://m.ebay.com/itm/1989-Chevrole...cAAOSw7p5aYoVO
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Old 01-30-2018, 09:17 PM   #85 (permalink)
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What is rust??!
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Old 01-30-2018, 09:50 PM   #86 (permalink)
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I know I can use stuff like that but thereís no way in hell a truck that new should have corroded terminals. In fact, in over 30 vehicles and 38 years of drivng Iíve only had two vehicles show any corrosion at all on the batteries, the 2012 Tundra shown above and the 2008 Tundra it replaced. And Iíve owned many, many sub $1,000 beaters over the years.
I think it's the low bid batteries Toyota puts in them. My 08 Tundra has done the same thing no matter how many times I pull the terminals apart, clean, neutralize, use the sticky napa spray, grease and use the fuzzy green and red washers. Can not stop it. I've replaced the negative terminal twice and the hold down bar twice. My 94 4Runner was nearly as bad. My 86 minitruck wasn't as bad. Once the stock batteries get replaced, its less bad. The mini truck and runner stopped doing it then, but the Tundra keeps on corroding. I suspect the parasitic draw when the key is off is part of the trouble.
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Old 01-30-2018, 09:59 PM   #87 (permalink)
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I am going to need batteries soon. My Die Hard platinums are almost 6 years old in the AZ heat. That's close to $600 right there for good AGM batteries.
Why do you feel the need for AGM? Good Lead batteries will last eons, and are cheaper by far. Yes... there's a place for AGM, but I didn't expect it to be in a DD
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Old 01-30-2018, 10:02 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Hereís my math
I ainít ever gonna be that guy , that 120k miles cost them $45k !
The 120k miles I drove it will cost me about $3k
Or 45x less than what it cost the first owner to drive it the same distance , for those of you that went to a public school
Hum? 45k/3k = 15, not 45? Maybe that's private school math. Or a typo.
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Old 01-31-2018, 03:35 AM   #89 (permalink)
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Hum? 45k/3k = 15, not 45? Maybe that's private school math. Or a typo.


Supposed to be a ďkĒ instead of x
But youíre right
First owner paid 15 times more than I did for driving it the same amount of miles

Guess thatís why Iíve never bought a brand new car , ever .
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Old 01-31-2018, 03:48 AM   #90 (permalink)
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My math has always been to buy $3-5k cars and trucks off craigslist, drive them for a year or so and maybe fix cheap suspension parts if it needs it. Then sell the vehicle for what I paid for it or a little more. I would have 3-4 vehicles at a time. I effectively didn't have a car payment for 10 years and went through a lot of Hondas .

I just got tired of driving garbage all the time so I sold my fleet and bought a brand new truck.
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Old 01-31-2018, 04:27 AM   #91 (permalink)
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What is rust??!
What are mudslides, earthquakes, wild fires and swarms of illegals?
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Old 01-31-2018, 04:34 AM   #92 (permalink)
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I know it's a touchy subject. But does anyone know anyone who deleted a modern diesel early, WAY before the warranty expired? WAY before that EGR DPF DEF bullshit had a chance to do its damage? Then on top of that, didn't hotrod the shit out of it because it was fun drive.

I know of one, but it hasn't been long enough to see if it was worth it yet. Most people have the golden handcuffs that they can't let go of. Then don't have 3K to delete it till after its already become a problem.
sort of done two now, bought a 12 dodge new, drove home and deleted it and tuned trans. Drove like an old man to 112k and sold it. one wheel seal and one water pump.

Bought a 17 ford, deleted at 8k miles. up to 38. Not sure how long ill keep it and if ill buy another diesel or not. be nice to keep till 250-300 or so well see
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:00 AM   #93 (permalink)
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How many of you daily your HD diesel? I think it's a necessity to have a second, commuter car.

My 2004 Powerstroke dually only moves when I need to tow or haul. Hasn't moved in 3+ weeks currently. It maybe gets 16 mpg empty and I put maybe 6000 miles on it last year, 90% towing my jeep. My daily is a 2000 VW Jetta diesel that gets 45mpg highway. I drive 100 miles a day so the fuel savings are massive.

Parts are also ridiculously cheaper for a small car. Plus Jetta's are all over junkyards. I can replace all 4 wheel bearings on the Jetta for the cost of 1 wheel bearing on the Powerstroke.
I have daily driven my 1 ton dually for 3 years now. I do not own a running vehicle that gets better than 14 mpg, so it doesn't really matter what I drive. Doing my best to support the local oil economy.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:07 AM   #94 (permalink)
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sort of done two now, bought a 12 dodge new, drove home and deleted it and tuned trans. Drove like an old man to 112k and sold it. one wheel seal and one water pump.

Bought a 17 ford, deleted at 8k miles. up to 38. Not sure how long ill keep it and if ill buy another diesel or not. be nice to keep till 250-300 or so well see
I appreciate your input. That dodge would in all likely hood made it to that many miles just fine without being modified. I want to know how it fares out at the 200k + miles mark.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:09 AM   #95 (permalink)
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I appreciate your input. That dodge would in all likely hood made it to that many miles just fine without being modified. I want to know how it fares out at the 200k + miles mark.
I don't think the CP3 and injectors have changed much since 2003, so if the emissions junk is gone I think the drivetrain and engine would last a really long time.

All the electronic doodads will give issues. It seems like every newer vehicle has problems with the wiring that goes to the doors. My wife's car and my truck both do it, locks go nuts, windows do/don't go up and down sometimes. But the engines and drivetrains are really quite good once you get rid of the stupid junk.

I still wouldn't but a new diesel.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:14 AM   #96 (permalink)
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I have daily driven my 1 ton dually for 3 years now. I do not own a running vehicle that gets better than 14 mpg, so it doesn't really matter what I drive. Doing my best to support the local oil economy.
I don't know how you do it. My 2004 Ford dually is leaf sprung all around. Doesn't exactly float down the road. Plus Michigan roads are a war zone.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:35 AM   #97 (permalink)
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I don't think the CP3 and injectors have changed much since 2003, so if the emissions junk is gone I think the drivetrain and engine would last a really long time.

All the electronic doodads will give issues. It seems like every newer vehicle has problems with the wiring that goes to the doors. My wife's car and my truck both do it, locks go nuts, windows do/don't go up and down sometimes. But the engines and drivetrains are really quite good once you get rid of the stupid junk.

I still wouldn't but a new diesel.
In 06-07 I had 7 friends go buy the last of the 5.9 CRD Dodge's before the 6.7 was to come out. 5 of the 7 were auto trans and all 5 lost the trans between 60k and 80k miles. 4 of those were traded in instead of fixing the POS transmission and one got repaired and is still around. Two of those were manual trans trucks and both of those smoked the engines around 100K miles. One of those was rebuilt and is still running around the other got traded in.

One of those guys has burned up two duramax's.
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Old 01-31-2018, 07:07 AM   #98 (permalink)
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I don't know how you do it. My 2004 Ford dually is leaf sprung all around. Doesn't exactly float down the road. Plus Michigan roads are a war zone.
I had been driving 1 ton dually Chevies for work for 3 years straight prior to changing jobs and buying one of my old work trucks 3 years ago. The Chevys also ride way better than either of the solid axle trucks. I did DD a 2000 F350 for half a year and didn't find it too bad.
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Old 01-31-2018, 08:05 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jeep07 View Post
I often wonder if someone has discovered a mathematical formula for buying trucks. Like If I buy a 2 year old truck used and put x miles on it and do x maint I can resale that truck and only end up out x dollars over that 12 month ownership period. Instead of the game where I drive it for 10 years and its worth jack when I'm done. I feel like I take a bath owning a truck until all the crap starts to fall apart. By crap I don't mean drive train but more the window moldings shrinking up, plastic starting to crack and fall off, door locks start not working, seats get ripped from in/out etc. That stuff drives me nuts but it's not breaking/failing due to my lack of maintenance of the truck.
I have a friend who is good at the game, He buys 8k-10k cars/trucks and drives them for a year, then resells them for a profit or even. It's all about your starting purchase price. Buy it low enough and you have more room to resell it.
I love craigslist, but not that much.
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Old 01-31-2018, 08:24 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Nickel and dime will never surpass a new payment.

50k on a 5 year note is $10k a year. $10k will damn near rebuild an entire older truck. It's just personal preference.

I have the same truck and miles as Rooney but 5.9/48re. Ive replaced the water pump and batteries, its breaking the bank.
This has been my theory, buy older, fix it up and drive it a few years. It has worked out pretty well except for my current truck.

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First rule of delete club is DO NOT TALK PUBLICLY ABOUT DELETE CLUB. The second rule.... no diesel shop will advertise or admit they do it. Any place that will do it will only do it for cash no receipt and will deny ever having touched your vehicle. The EPA is actually raiding diesel shops and going through trucks in the shop as well as snooping through books looking for key words for things that mean something emissions illegal has been sold. Remember Edge got sued out of existence and H&S got sued and they lost and had to pay an enormous fine. The EPA is coming after anyone that would defeat emissions devices. The fine for 1st offense is $20,000, 2nd is loss of business license.

The best prices I know of for parts to build off-road only deleted trucks is Rudy's diesel performance. You will have to do the work yourself or find some one to do it cash under the table with parts you supplied. That work will not be warrantied in any way.
https://edgeproducts.com/

Edge is still open? I am curious on more backstory on this.
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