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Old 11-14-2018, 06:38 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Did this twice in the past two weeks with the block tester I have. Fluid stays blue.

Can anyone confirm the TPS 3.6 volts at wot is within specs for a 4runner? My google search is coming up empty.
it's a potentiometer, so if supply voltage is 5v, then your output will be less.


have you checked the fuel trims?
you need to ascertain if the ECU is causing a fucked AFR because it thinks the motor is running way lean/rich than it actually is.

a single leaky injector will fuck the entire bank and the ecu will run the other two cylinders dead lean.

edit:
You should also be able to check the TPS input % in the ECU.
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Last edited by 87manche; 11-14-2018 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 11-14-2018, 06:54 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddeprived View Post
Did this twice in the past two weeks with the block tester I have. Fluid stays blue.

Can anyone confirm the TPS 3.6 volts at wot is within specs for a 4runner? My google search is coming up empty.
it's a potentiometer, so if supply voltage is 5v, then your output will be less.


have you checked the fuel trims?
you need to ascertain if the ECU is causing a fucked AFR because it thinks the motor is running way lean/rich than it actually is.

a single leaky injector will fuck the entire bank and the ecu will run the other two cylinders dead lean.

edit:
You should also be able to check the TPS input % in the ECU.
I do not have the equipment to test fuel trim.
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Old 11-14-2018, 07:08 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I wouldn't get super excited about condensation in the engine since you haven't ran it long and hard enough to get it hot so it burns out of the crankcase.
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Old 11-14-2018, 07:20 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I do not have the equipment to test fuel trim.
beg or borrow something that can do live data.

otherwise you're just going to be parts shotgunning and guessing.

I'm not sure what all you can get ou of that ECU, but even an elm327 and torque will probably get you fuel trims.
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Old 11-15-2018, 03:35 AM   #30 (permalink)
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+1 vote for Camshaft PS and possible vacuum leaks.
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Old 11-15-2018, 05:37 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Get an OBD2 Bluetooth (Android) or WiFi (apple) diagnostic device on Amazon they are $20-25. mine is a BAFX WiFi OBD2 reader. Then download Torque pro or OBD fusion. That will let you get live data for cheap. I have the OBD fusion app for my iPhone. I believe torque pro app is android only. I think the app was $10 for OBD fusion and I paid another $20 to get more data from extra sensors. The regular app will probably work for you. While I didnít have much of idea what I was looking at I posted a bunch of live data screenshots and the guys here helped me diagnose a knock sensor issue on my truck that was causing the computer to pull timing/power.
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:35 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Random, but my 99 taco the CPS went bad, but went bad slowly. hard starts, rough idle ect. I swapped it and all that went away.

I would also check the injectors. I had 2 dead ones prior to that. replaced them and cleaned the others made a huge difference in drive-ability.
This ^^
Injectors are easy to check with a length of hose, listen for the sewing machine sound. I had a similar problem, turned out to be the injector harness wires corroded to powder.
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Old 12-19-2018, 06:37 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Ok so I am bumpin this for round 2. I had towed to a fellow Pirate's shop and got new cats installed. Apparently the front disintegrated and clogged the rear. Truck drove ok after that.

It was still rough starting and rpms doing funky shit when it did and it was suggested that there might be a leaking injector or two so I replaced those. Truck ran great, had power that i didn't know it had, and i could peel out. Sweet!

BUT the rough starts and smoke shows are still happening. Smoke is white and thick and goes away once driven.

Any input or auggestions appreciated.
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Old 12-19-2018, 07:15 AM   #34 (permalink)
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LS swap it.
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Old 12-19-2018, 07:28 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Valve seals or or worn valve guides will cause those issues.
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Old 12-19-2018, 07:52 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Valve seals or or worn valve guides will cause those issues.
valve seals/guides would be blue (oil) smoke, no?
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Old 12-19-2018, 08:03 AM   #37 (permalink)
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valve seals/guides would be blue (oil) smoke, no?
Seals usually smoke because the engine draws oil past them.

Guides don't usually smoke until they're fucked enough that the seals don't seal and usually the engine has 0 compression on that cylinder before that happens.

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Old 12-19-2018, 08:30 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Rough running and white smoke on cold startup is a pretty good sign of head gasket failure.
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Old 12-19-2018, 08:37 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Rough running and white smoke on cold startup is a pretty good sign of head gasket failure.
I believe a compression test was done with good numbers and I did a block test a few times. Oil and coolant are looking good but I do have a coolant loss which I think is leaking out of the crimps on top of the radiator.
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Old 12-19-2018, 08:43 AM   #40 (permalink)
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If it's white, it's not oil.
RB's website has the TPS proceedure for both 3.0 and 22-RE.

I am also gonna say head gasket. You are loosing coolant. If you can't find a leak...
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Old 12-19-2018, 01:19 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I decided to check some things after fixing a battery terminal. I popped the plugs out and peeked down into the plug holes with a flashlight. Cylinder 3 appeared wet halfway across. The other 5 were dry and black. I am gonna pick up an endoscope camera to get a better look.
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Old 12-22-2018, 08:39 AM   #42 (permalink)
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BUT the rough starts and smoke shows are still happening. Smoke is white and thick and goes away once driven.

Any input or auggestions appreciated.
This is a fairly classic cracked head / leaking headgasket symptom.

Shut it down hot and let it sit overnight...then pull all the plugs the next morning and shine a flashlight down the plug holes to look for coolant in one of the cylinders.
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Old 12-22-2018, 10:58 AM   #43 (permalink)
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BUT the rough starts and smoke shows are still happening. Smoke is white and thick and goes away once driven.

Any input or auggestions appreciated.
This is a fairly classic cracked head / leaking headgasket symptom.

Shut it down hot and let it sit overnight...then pull all the plugs the next morning and shine a flashlight down the plug holes to look for coolant in one of the cylinders.

Did this a few days ago and saw some in cyl 3. Two days later i get p0303 flashing cel on start up.

I hoping it can get me by for a 2 weeks at most till Jan cuz I have no other means of transportation.
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Old 12-23-2018, 01:12 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Did this a few days ago and saw some in cyl 3. Two days later i get p0303 flashing cel on start up.

I hoping it can get me by for a 2 weeks at most till Jan cuz I have no other means of transportation.
At some point toyota switched to MLS head gaskets from the earlier composite gaskets....I have no idea when this was, I wanna say it was at the same time when they went to the fabricated exhaust manifolds instead of cast iron, but I could be wrong.

I've rarely seen a 3.4L that hasn't been overheated lose a headgasket. I have seen several instances with 3.4L that cracked cylinder heads between the valves for no reason at all...usually a bit past the 200K mile mark.

If you've got milkshake oil, I'd be concerned with the bottom end too...it has a tendency to pull the babbit off the bearings.

I'd dump a bottle of Bars Leak part# 1111 in it...follow the directions exactly, and run it. It'll buy you some time, and won't fuck everything up for when you decide to fix it right...I've torn down an engine after giving it the treatment and it was nice and clean inside. Look for a clean used engine in the mean time.
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Old 12-23-2018, 04:26 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Did this a few days ago and saw some in cyl 3. Two days later i get p0303 flashing cel on start up.

I hoping it can get me by for a 2 weeks at most till Jan cuz I have no other means of transportation.
At some point toyota switched to MLS head gaskets from the earlier composite gaskets....I have no idea when this was, I wanna say it was at the same time when they went to the fabricated exhaust manifolds instead of cast iron, but I could be wrong.

I've rarely seen a 3.4L that hasn't been overheated lose a headgasket. I have seen several instances with 3.4L that cracked cylinder heads between the valves for no reason at all...usually a bit past the 200K mile mark.

If you've got milkshake oil, I'd be concerned with the bottom end too...it has a tendency to pull the babbit off the bearings.

I'd dump a bottle of Bars Leak part# 1111 in it...follow the directions exactly, and run it. It'll buy you some time, and won't fuck everything up for when you decide to fix it right...I've torn down an engine after giving it the treatment and it was nice and clean inside. Look for a clean used engine in the mean time.
Appreciate the advice.

No milkshake here. I had the milkshake with my 01 XJ 4.0 though. Then my 00 XJ blew its HG.......then possibly this 3.4 too. I am on a roll!
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