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Old 04-13-2019, 11:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Yard drainage and grading advice

bought a house, 24x24 garage, i have too much shit so i park on the grass, it rains, grass turns to shit hole, land around my area is basically all flat and clay, i don't like shit hole grass so i want to fix it the right way. i also want more parking for the large amount of junk i have, so 15x25ft spot next to the garage for firewood and 1 vehicle, then 15-25ft out for parking one more facing the driveway or just pulling in/out as my winter beater will be parked there during the winter.

quick vid showing the layout of my driveway and issue followed by some really shitty sketches but should get the idea across.

i meant to say finish with compacted millings NOT process on top.

https://youtu.be/dRaE6A_u3bs



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Old 04-13-2019, 11:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Good lord. Slope everything.... Done. You're welcome.
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Old 04-14-2019, 12:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Good lord. Slope everything.... Done. You're welcome.
hahah it's all basically flat i need somewhere for the water to go
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Old 04-14-2019, 02:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Just build you one of these. Problems solved

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Old 04-14-2019, 04:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I assume the "drain for gutters is a lower area". Strip off the topsoil, EITHER laydown fabric with 3/4" clean stone 4" thick than fabric and millings on top. OR laydown fabric with your millings than along the edge of your fence line do some type of drainage swale or underdrain to convey the water to the gutter drain. Might have to put some river rock or something in there to prvent erosion. Not sure how wet that grass gets.
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Old 04-14-2019, 04:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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hahah it's all basically flat i need somewhere for the water to go
You're fucked. Flat land means the water isn't gonna go anywhere. You bought a swamp.

Next time buy land on top of a hill, high enough that it could never ever flood, excavate to bedrock and pour your house foundation pinned directly to the rock. Put in a good drainage to daylight anywhere you want to park and backfill with rocks, big fukin rocks. Top with fabric and crushed stone.

Then you can park a crane there during a monsoon.

If you're set on staying where you are you could always muck all that slop out of the yard, right down to bedrock, then pour concrete retaining walls pinned to the bedrock around your property high enough that it could never flood. Raise your house to this level. Again backfill with big fukin rocks and top with fabric and crushed stone.

You're welcome.
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Old 04-14-2019, 04:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I went from loon shit slop clay deep enough to swallow up rubber boots in the spring, to rock solid interlocking brick that hasn't moved an inch in three or four winters.

Pretty sure you could park a crane on my patio.

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Old 04-14-2019, 04:36 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Be careful what you do as to keep your water on your property. You push it into you neighbors and it causes them a problem you’ll be on the hook.

What type of soil is in the area? Sand loam clay? What your planning to do will work ok if you can get the water to drain away. Reason number 1510 why I could not live in subdivision hell.

If you live where it freezes and have a basement I would sell that bitch ASAP. We just had a uncommon winter. It got really cold nov dec with no snow causing deep frost. February it got warmed and rained and it flooded hundreds of basements do to flat ground and the frost holding the water up. It looks like you have the perfect place for this to happen to you.

As mention above buy the house on the top of the hill not the bottom.

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Old 04-14-2019, 04:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
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$3K worth of concrete work?
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Old 04-14-2019, 04:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Do you own any land that's lower than where the mud/jeeps sit? You said you were gonna put a trench by the fence. Can you run that trench to somewhere lower? If not, it's not going to do anything.

Maybe air down the jeeps and don't drive the Jetta in the mud?

You said something about a trailer. . . I guess putting in riprap and calling it "Jeep parking only" isn't an option?



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Old 04-14-2019, 04:59 AM   #11 (permalink)
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This is too funny. Search for your sake! It’s too easy.
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Old 04-14-2019, 07:29 AM   #12 (permalink)
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do not use fabric, do not use flexible pipe
sdr35 perf with good fall to where ever the water can go away.

fabric is basically a filter, so what do you do when the filter media is full of the silts you are trying to filter.....really hard to change that filter. really easy to clean a pipe through the clean outs.

I have removed plenty of french drains that the pipe had never seen water due to the filter fabric completely sealing the trench.
parks, sports fields etc. not little residential jobs where you rip off the home owner and run.
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Old 04-14-2019, 09:01 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Flat as it is, some areas are lower than others. Install a few dry wells, and regrade up top best you can. No need to tear the entire yard up.
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Old 04-14-2019, 09:06 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Yep, install some dry wells with some heavy drain rock.
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Old 04-14-2019, 11:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok so......

Im in CT, not a swamp, houses in my area are on 1-2 acre plots so far from a compact subdivision as some said.

Ground is harder packed top soil with somewhat clay based under that. On the other side of my house where I dug and added rock for a gutter lets the water perk into the ground without causing issues.

Ill look into the drywell idea.


My neighbors house is even lower than mine by probably 2ft and her back yard on the other side of the fence turns into a small pond at times. If I can catch mode of the water and send it back to a drywell before going into her yard shed probably like that.


Has anyone heard of using something like a willow tree to soak up water? I was told that some people have used them in wet places to help soak up water. I have my doubts about that though.
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Old 04-14-2019, 11:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Is it ground water or water on top of the ground? Dig a big pond in your back yard and drain into that. Set up the overflow to go even further away from your house
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:16 AM   #17 (permalink)
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a little slope. A carport with gutters, drain boxes and cisterns should help
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:35 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I'm doing a project right now using a truegrid system. they are starting to use them for parking lots around here. I have high hopes.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:39 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Residential Grading and Drainage design is my main job. Although it "appears" flat, it most likely isn't. The only way to get a true representation of what you are working with though is to hire a surveyor to do you a topo shot map of the area. Basically a map showing spot shots in like either a 5' or 10' grid (and any obvious low and high points) along with spot shots of any low points of your property for drainage assessment to drop the water out. The work that I've done in coastal regions, the naked eye can not determine elevation changes. But when all said and done, everything has to flow at 0.5% minimum. And 2% being the standard preference. But in flat situations 0.5% will have to suffice.
Keeping the storm water runoffs above ground is a plus due to no maintenance but results in possible ponding / wet areas. But if you have enough depth, a storm system helps tremendously. But no 4" shit, especially the ribbed shit. Go with 8" slick wall. And for inlets, they are cheap and easy. Basically pour the excavated floor (flow line elevation) with about 4" concrete with rebar and then form up the sides with brick and mortar around the pipe ends on both sides of the inlet (however big you desire). And at the top grade I made my own tops with angle iron along 4 sides of the inside and heavy duty expanded metal welded tying them together and the final product painted industrial black. Been 12 years now for me with no problems and no sign of ever having any. And the home made grates pop right out if ever needed.
For any gutter down spouts, it's best to let the water loose above grade and then pick it up with an inlet close by. That way you can maintain your gutter system separately. If you tie your gutters directly into your storm system it creates issues being something like a 2"x4" transitioning into a 8".
Another trick if you have access to block rather than pipe is to channel the water underground. I did this behind my house so that I could tie in to it in the future if I ever dig out under my house or build a deck. I basically dug a deep ditch and placed 8x16x4" block up on it's sides with the same placed up over flat on top and covered a minimum of say 4-6" to grow grass above it. I went back and added my inlet just about a month ago and found that my experiment worked absolutely just fine. So I left it in place both upstream and downstream. But what helped tremendously there was for me to do all my thinset tile rinsing from my bathroom project into the upstream inlet. It basically coated the channel floor for a nice stream bed.
My yard was a swamp before. Now I can drive anywhere in 2wd right after a rain storm.

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Old 04-15-2019, 08:40 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Attachment 2927194

Attachment 2927196

I'm doing a project right now using a truegrid system. they are starting to use them for parking lots around here. I have high hopes.
go big or go home

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Old 04-15-2019, 08:41 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Attachment 2927194

Attachment 2927196

I'm doing a project right now using a truegrid system. they are starting to use them for parking lots around here. I have high hopes.
^^^This as well!!! It's proven to work. And accepted by most municipalities now days. But expensive at about $5 per square foot installed.
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Old 04-15-2019, 12:23 PM   #22 (permalink)
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^^^This as well!!! It's proven to work. And accepted by most municipalities now days. But expensive at about $5 per square foot installed.
yes i am looking into those right now, that price is waaay too much for me since this is basically just extra storage parking, however i am seeing other options that are similar.

instead of topping with millings i may just get 4 sets of this and then use all gravel
https://standartpark-usa.com/product...eo-ground-grid
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Old 04-15-2019, 12:38 PM   #23 (permalink)
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remove the organics, proof compact it, lay down some mirifi, top it with some road base, 8-12 inches, and maintain slight drainage from the back to the front and away from the garage.
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Old 04-16-2019, 11:43 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sardo_67 View Post
yes i am looking into those right now, that price is waaay too much for me since this is basically just extra storage parking, however i am seeing other options that are similar.

instead of topping with millings i may just get 4 sets of this and then use all gravel
https://standartpark-usa.com/product...eo-ground-grid
this looks pretty sweet. may have to use this for the extra parking spot i've got
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:16 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Residential Grading and Drainage design is my main job. Although it "appears" flat, it most likely isn't. The only way to get a true representation of what you are working with though is to hire a surveyor to do you a topo shot map of the area. Basically a map showing spot shots in like either a 5' or 10' grid (and any obvious low and high points) along with spot shots of any low points of your property for drainage assessment to drop the water out. The work that I've done in coastal regions, the naked eye can not determine elevation changes. But when all said and done, everything has to flow at 0.5% minimum. And 2% being the standard preference. But in flat situations 0.5% will have to suffice.
Fucks sakes.

He can grab a bundle of stakes and a 50' roll of 3/8" clear tubing from Homodepot and snap a quick water level grid out and go from there.

Hire a surveyor... I guess if you just like throwing money at something other than strippers.
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