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Old 05-15-2019, 08:28 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy356 View Post
Call it a freezer, call it a cooler, it doesn’t matter,

A 35 degree chamber temp (which he said it was maintaining ) will require a coil temp of less than 32. Which means defrost.
Not true. I have a walkin cooler that the fans run 24/7. The compressor runs when needed. Yes, the evaporator is below freezing and collects some ice, but whenever the compressor shuts down, the fans are blowing "above freezing" air through it. It melts the ice, drips on a pan and drains out the side.

We also have a walkin freezer. It has a much more complicated system because there is no "above freezing" air to defrost the coils.
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:00 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by B-rock View Post
So as it tuned out the timer never did work, The circuit it was on was off and has been for"a long time" as the owner stated. Im thinking the condenser was so plugged up that it never needed the timmer?? so the story goes that it has been running 50 degrees for months and months. I repaired the circuit and got the timmer going again, all seems to be good so far.

I think by cleaning the condenser coils like I did the system was able to work properly and shed heat, then freezing the coil.
Also make sure the Evaporator coils inside are clean, the inside fans work, and the drip condensate pan is clean and dip lines are free. If you can't get air flow across evp either then its pissing in the wind too. Also if the evap drip pan holds water it ups the humidity and makes the freeze ups worse more often.

I would be more worried about a restaurant owner using a cooler that isn't working for a long time, sure the health dept or who ever yall have would love that. Here they will test the coolers temps at least once a year on inspections.
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:15 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterhorse View Post
Not true. I have a walkin cooler that the fans run 24/7. The compressor runs when needed. Yes, the evaporator is below freezing and collects some ice, but whenever the compressor shuts down, the fans are blowing "above freezing" air through it. It melts the ice, drips on a pan and drains out the side.

We also have a walkin freezer. It has a much more complicated system because there is no "above freezing" air to defrost the coils.
"Freezer" will have defrost heaters. "Cooler" (35-44*) will not need heaters, but will need for a timer in most cases, the thermostat cycling can make freeze up even worse, hence again timers. There are several factors which include box temp, door traffic, system sizing, and humidity. So a blanket statement a timer is not need is asinine in the least.
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Last edited by Bo185; 05-16-2019 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:34 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Bo185 View Post
"Freezer" will have defrost heaters. "Cooler" (35-44*) will not need heaters, hence the need for a timer in most cases, the thermostat cycling can make freeze up even worse, hence again timers. There are several factors which include box temp, door traffic, system sizing, and humidity. So a blanket statement a timer is not need is asinine in the least.
I wasn't making a "blanket" statement. Just saying that's how our walkin cooler works and worked for several years. (It worked that way for many years in an elementary school before we bought it.)

As mentioned, now we use a Coolbot.
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Old 05-16-2019, 10:33 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I wasn't making a "blanket" statement. Just saying that's how our walkin cooler works and worked for several years. (It worked that way for many years in an elementary school before we bought it.)

As mentioned, now we use a Coolbot.
You stated" not true", when in fact defrost may very well be needed. Reread the part about factors, I mentioned. Just cause it worked for you, doesn't mean it will work anywhere. And yes coolbots work, but most large (this mean fucking decent commercial size) coolers you need something alot larger than a window A/C unit, which yet again plays into those aforementioned factors.
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Last edited by Bo185; 05-16-2019 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:59 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Bo185 View Post
You stated" not true", when in fact defrost may very well be needed. Reread the part about factors, I mentioned. Just cause it worked for you, doesn't mean it will work anywhere. And yes coolbots work, but most large (this mean fucking decent commercial size) coolers you need something alot larger than a window A/C unit, which yet again plays into those aforementioned factors.
The "not true" was in reference to Grumpy's "blanket" statement that all freezers and coolers need a defrost timer. In reviewing his post, I'm not sure he's really saying that. If he is just saying it needs some kind of defrost, well that would be true. Mine defrosted everytime the compressor shut down. If it worked for me and the previous school in Florida, I can't see how it wouldn't work anywhere.

As far as the coolbot, I was very skeptical at first. But it is making a believer of me. The AC unit is a 24K BTU in a 8' by 12' box. I've got about $700 in it. The compressor that failed was going to cost about the same. (And would require me to recover and reuse the freon.) I do have the equipment, so not terrible for me.

I liked the fact that I get rid of the giant inside evaporator and the outside box. (Both of which were thirty years old.) I took a gamble and it's worked for two years. I'm guessing the AC unit will fail eventually, but the Coolbot should last for years. I can replace a $500 window unit every four or five years.
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Old 05-30-2019, 11:10 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I work at an institution that has at least 20 refers and freezers. We are required to maintain between 38 to 41 degrees on the refers and below zero on the freezers. None of the refers here have timers and they often run below 35. The only time they freeze up the Evaps is when the doors get left open for extended periods of time or when excess moisture is present. ie. mopping out the floors.
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Old 05-30-2019, 05:12 PM   #33 (permalink)
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lotta speculation in here, and lots of solid info. I'd say go a bit more if the system isn't operating that great.
definetly clean and inspect the indoor evap fans. and check the coils for debris and clean if needed. check the connectivity of the sensing bulb after the evaporator. inspect insulation on the system piping. fix and replace as needed.
that defrost timer is needed to de-ice the evap. sounds like a smaller hermetic sealed compressor if it's a 120VAC unit.......

just having gauges to put on the system isn't quite enough. you could do more damage by having no low-loss fittings on them, and possibly dump the refrigerant if something goes wrong pulling the gauges off.
temp sensing meter for subcool and superheat..

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