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Old 06-03-2019, 09:44 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Pour in transom replacement?

Seacast, Arjay 6011, Nida, etc.

The bottom of my transom is shot in this boat, way too hard to split the deck to get access from the top and full inside access so I'm considering filling it up with seacast. I already went in through the I/O hole and used an auger bit to remove the wood in the center section of the transom, but the outer sections are angled enough that I can't get a bit in there. I used a pressure washer to blast out the trim tab holes and they are all connected (entire bottom of all transom panels are rotted out and gone). Original plywood was 3/4". The crack at to bottom of the I/O hole is of moderate concern, however I think once there is something solid behind it, it should be okay after getting vee'd out and filled with epoxy/csm.
PSA, a 15hp pressure washer with the single stream tip can delaminate fiberglass if you hit an existing hole.









Option 1: Pour it as it is, the outer sections should be fine left alone, assume the pourable will find it's way to the entire bottom of the transom. If it doesn't then inject it later.

Option 2: take an upside down "T" section out of the inner transom.

I was using this boat last year with no signs of issues, but when I was getting ready to float it this spring I noticed the crack at the bottom of the I/O.

Save the boat ownership jokes, I got it for free and I've used the hell out of this thing over the past 6 years I've owned it and it has always been a reliable fish catcher, if not the prettiest.

Looking for anyone with actual experience, I can find boyscouts on the marine forums.
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Old 06-03-2019, 10:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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the right way to do it is to start hacking that thing apart from the inside; chop everything with a 2" flange around the bottom/ sides to glass back into place peel off the inner glass skin and rip everything out. then reassemble & fill

Basically this but on the inside



Your (half-ass) approach probably cant be any weaker than the rotten wood that was there before.
think the most difficult problem is gonna be drilling enough air vent/ weep holes to prevent airpockets - youre basically filling an ant-hill thats non-porus/ relatively sealed with a thickish batter consistency.


P.S. you probably should have started this project several months ago- good luck getting her splashed by august..
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Old 06-03-2019, 10:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Ive used seacast on a smaller hp boat and it worked fine. Went in carefully from the top with an electric chainsaw and dug the old wood out.
Im know its strong enough for your application but getting all of the shit wood out will be difficult. You could take part of the inner skin off clean out the rotten wood reglass it back in place and then fill with seacast. Or better yet take the back skin off since the inside is tied into the stringers and that where all the strength is on an IO. Again clear the shit wood and pour. Or do it right and use marine ply. Epoxy to the inside skin, epoxy outer skin on, reglass, fair and paint.

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Old 06-03-2019, 11:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Looking at the inside pics again your stringers aint doing much. Cut the inner as needed, remove the wood, reglass, fill, and recut the hole for the IO.
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Old 06-03-2019, 11:05 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Makes my heart sink to see a boat like that in June, I just unloaded 6 sheets of ply to redeck my pontoon. No experience with transom like that but Ill bet if you open it up it will be a lot more rot than you think.

15hp pressure washer??? Never saw one that big, what are the specs on it? How about a pic
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Old 06-03-2019, 12:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Seems like 50% of free boats on CL at least around me are sterndrive and about the same size as yours.

I'd be shopping for a new free hull to stick your drive-train into. There's no way in hell you're gonna have that in the water this summer without a monumental amount of work considering it's already June.
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Old 06-03-2019, 01:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i'd be concerned about structural integrity in several places, stringers for sure. (If they're shot, may not be worth fixing) then reinforce the transom.
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Old 06-03-2019, 01:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You-you're gonna take that thing out on Lake Superior?


Fishermen here are absolutely batshit. Some of the shit my dad pulled with 8yo me in the boat would get him arrested in these times
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Old 06-03-2019, 01:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Seems like 50% of free boats on CL at least around me are sterndrive and about the same size as yours.

I'd be shopping for a new free hull to stick your drive-train into. There's no way in hell you're gonna have that in the water this summer without a monumental amount of work considering it's already June.
The problem that I've noticed is that every boat I've looked at in the $0 to $10,000 range has a rotten transom to some extent but if it still "floats" the seller doesn't feel that it affects the price.
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Old 06-03-2019, 01:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Why are transoms not made from Aluminum?
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Old 06-03-2019, 02:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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This is what you really need to do:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UOtdrxNX8U

I have done my share of fiberglass work on boats and a couple jetski's. Think of the rot like you would rust on a classic car. Cut everything back to a solid base.
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Old 06-03-2019, 02:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Why are transoms not made from Aluminum?
No kidding?

Or solid fiberglass. Wooden boats make less sense than wooden cars, post 1950.
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Old 06-03-2019, 02:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Why are transoms not made from Aluminum?
Money.

Actually some oems of nicer boats use pour in stuff now days.
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Old 06-03-2019, 03:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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What outdrive goes in there? If itís an omc, Iíd haul the thing to the junkyard. When it breaks, and it will at some point. Your screwed. Cause they went outa business decades ago. The only parts your gonna find will be off another junked outdrive. If itís a merc, carry on. I would cut out the inside and leave a flange as was said. Get all the trashed plywood out and use a plywood form to hold the seacast in. Pull off the form and refiberglass the inside. If it is rotten. I would be worried the stringers are too.
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Old 06-03-2019, 03:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Money.

Actually some oems of nicer boats use pour in stuff now days.
I new boat is a minimum of $25k and typically start at $80k for anything decent. I realize a lot of the cost is in the powertrain. But damn, what's $600 worth of material and $35 an hour for a fabricator to work in house?

All rhetorical. Just venting. I don't understand some of the corners companies in the craftsmanship business cut.

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Old 06-03-2019, 04:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Boats are like pussies.

The free ones cost the most.

Edit: Oh, and fuck you for not wanting us to put funny boat owner jabs in this thread. We're here for entertainment, not to help you with your life problems.
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Old 06-03-2019, 04:12 PM   #17 (permalink)
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What outdrive goes in there? If itís an omc, Iíd haul the thing to the junkyard. When it breaks, and it will at some point. Your screwed. Cause they went outa business decades ago. The only parts your gonna find will be off another junked outdrive. If itís a merc, carry on. I would cut out the inside and leave a flange as was said. Get all the trashed plywood out and use a plywood form to hold the seacast in. Pull off the form and refiberglass the inside. If it is rotten. I would be worried the stringers are too.
Mercruiser 888. 188hp Ford 302 with 351 heads.

It would have already been scuttled if it was an omc.
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:20 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Ive used seacast on a smaller hp boat and it worked fine. Went in carefully from the top with an electric chainsaw and dug the old wood out.
Im know its strong enough for your application but getting all of the shit wood out will be difficult. You could take part of the inner skin off clean out the rotten wood reglass it back in place and then fill with seacast. Or better yet take the back skin off since the inside is tied into the stringers and that where all the strength is on an IO. Again clear the shit wood and pour. Or do it right and use marine ply. Epoxy to the inside skin, epoxy outer skin on, reglass, fair and paint.
I don't know if I'd call fixing it with marine ply wood "right" these days. It would be cheaper, but will rot again.
IME wood has no place on a boat anymore except for cost.

I did a transom on a trihull 10+ years ago with plywood. Pain in the ass, but doable because I was able to pull the deck cap, not an option here. In hindsight I should have done a pour in on it and gone boating sooner.
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:23 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Makes my heart sink to see a boat like that in June, I just unloaded 6 sheets of ply to redeck my pontoon. No experience with transom like that but Ill bet if you open it up it will be a lot more rot than you think.

15hp pressure washer??? Never saw one that big, what are the specs on it? How about a pic
Had to scrape frost off my windshield this morning, but I would have been out fishing already if this boat wasn't like this.

It was a northern tool china special in store clearance for $250. Iirc it's 4000 psi 4.5 gpm. Its beefy at full trot.
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:50 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Could you just do a really thick shitty job of fiberglassing over the outside of the boat?
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Old 06-03-2019, 08:36 PM   #21 (permalink)
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This is what you really need to do:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UOtdrxNX8U

I have done my share of fiberglass work on boats and a couple jetski's. Think of the rot like you would rust on a classic car. Cut everything back to a solid base.
Unless missed it, he doesn't mention if the core is filled with closed or open cell foam. We had to remove that from the center of our old 23' Privateer Renegade. That shit becomes and stays eater logged.
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Old 06-03-2019, 08:46 PM   #22 (permalink)
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subbing to laugh at you.

I'm doing a bad job at fiberglass repair in my truck right now. hope to be done and fairing bondo tomorrow night. Because fuck the price of gelcoat.

It's a reminder that I don't need a fixer boat. Either that, or that it's not that bad. Sometimes I get confused on that point
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Old 06-03-2019, 08:58 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Boats are like pussies.

The free ones cost the most.
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Old 06-03-2019, 09:40 PM   #24 (permalink)
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OP;

Classic mako and classic sea craft have some great transom rebuild threads. Thehulltruth also has som good tech interspersed with a fairly significant amount of Jk-owner like credit card commandos.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.RatBastard View Post
This is what you really need to do:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UOtdrxNX8U

I have done my share of fiberglass work on boats and a couple jetski's. Think of the rot like you would rust on a classic car. Cut everything back to a solid base.
Suffered through what I could tolerate before fast forwarding- That fuckin guy seems like a half retarded hack master.

I'm tempted to be surprised he got a gov boat repair job but gotta remember it's .gov bids- not hard to win a bid regardless of competence. When he talked about not being able to wrap the glass Around the bottom edge of the hull be the trailer was in the way was the point where I could bear no more...
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Old 06-04-2019, 03:08 AM   #25 (permalink)
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What's the condition of the fiberglass like? Will it tolerate a pressure washer?

It only costs like $10 in fittings and steel line to make your own custom angle pressure washer nozzles. You might consider cutting a hole in the top and bottom and going in with a pressure washer to flush out all the wood. I've seen people do this with foam core boats.
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