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Old 07-14-2019, 08:28 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblack View Post
The engine looks like it has been raised one set of holes,
it has 5 sets of height adjustment holes and it looks like that it has been raised to the second hole down,
instead of the top hole which would be as far down as possible.

SS Prop was in the box and this is what's on the box
The SS prop is a Mercury Vengeance Part #48-16318A46
(Diameter-13 3/4)
(Pitch-21)
(Blades-rotation 3RH)
(Material SS)


I honestly think the engine is too high and needs to be lowered to what looks like the original position of bottomed out.
The reason I think it's been raised is that looks like scuff marks from where bolts were previously on the engine mount, where it bolts through the transom.

The Al prop looks to be OEM with "832832A45 21P" stamped on it.

It's in the back storage compartment along with a ratchet/socket to switch it out.


Hitting the lake in about 30 minutes to see how the SS prop does.
The vengeance is barely a step above aluminum

You need to level the cavity plate to the bottom of the boat and check height. For you style boat, use, and speed 1" above the bottom. You should just be able to see the cavity plate when running hard
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Old 07-14-2019, 08:42 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSWORDS View Post
The vengeance is barely a step above aluminum

You need to level the cavity plate to the bottom of the boat and check height. For you style boat, use, and speed 1" above the bottom. You should just be able to see the cavity plate when running hard
like this...lol
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Old 07-14-2019, 08:45 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2big bronco View Post
So I've never touched a prop but part of the reason I read all these threads is to learn about random shit I'll never need to know.

Is slip basically traction loss? So a 25% loss would be a prop/rpm spinning 100mph of thrust and only pushing a boat 75mph? If that's the case 25% loss pushing a giant boat with a tiny prop sounde pretty good.
Yes on your grasp,of the basic concept, and 15% is the general par target for prop slip in most applications.

The more slip, the more the water aereates from the propeller whipping it into a bubbly froth, thereby making it more difficult for the blades to get firm traction. Could be a contributing factor to the op's cavitation issues on trimming the motor up out while running.

a custom prop shop can fine tune the shit out of a propeller, but It's sort of a dark art that I certainly don't fully understand.
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Last edited by WTF?; 07-14-2019 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:56 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Trimmed down WOT 4800 RPM, I didn't check speed while trimmed down.
Trimming up at WOT 5250 and 49 MPH with 2 or 4 people,
it doesn't matter whether 2 or 4 people it's 49 MPH at about 5250 and then it starts sucking air.

I suspect cavity height is the issue,
Knock on wood, It's been the most reliable boat that I've ever owned.
Just turn the key and go.

I think the PO had raised the engine to stop the china walk...
Sometimes he let his kids under 18 drive the boat and figured it would be safer if it didn't china walk and get a little sketchy. Just a guess though...

My 16 YO drove it last weekend and basically WOT at all times, and if it were possible for it to china walk then he could've let it get away from him IMO.

I'll have to check the cavity plate for levelness on the bottom of the boat,
just from my memory, I think it's about 3 inches above the bottom of the boat.

Last edited by jblack; 07-14-2019 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:58 AM   #30 (permalink)
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like this...lol
That would be a hell no for me
My wife would freak the hell out if we were scooting like that.

I also know that the less boat in the water that the sketchier it gets.

Last edited by jblack; 07-14-2019 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 11:26 AM   #31 (permalink)
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chine
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Old 07-14-2019, 02:38 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jblack View Post
Trimmed down WOT 4800 RPM, I didn't check speed while trimmed down.
Trimming up at WOT 5250 and 49 MPH with 2 or 4 people,
it doesn't matter whether 2 or 4 people it's 49 MPH at about 5250 and then it starts sucking air.

I suspect cavity height is the issue,
Knock on wood, It's been the most reliable boat that I've ever owned.
Just turn the key and go.

I think the PO had raised the engine to stop the china walk...
Sometimes he let his kids under 18 drive the boat and figured it would be safer if it didn't china walk and get a little sketchy. Just a guess though...

My 16 YO drove it last weekend and basically WOT at all times, and if it were possible for it to china walk then he could've let it get away from him IMO.

I'll have to check the cavity plate for levelness on the bottom of the boat,
just from my memory, I think it's about 3 inches above the bottom of the boat.
That speed & rev equates to 12% slip which is very good, but the revs are low indicative that you're over propped; effectively lugging the engine throughout the range.

If your slip numbers are accurate and no current or tailwind is in play in that speed, then you definitely don't need to move the motor down any- that would increase drag and further slow down revs and reduce fuel efficiency.

If you had issues with the prop blowing out under way when you cross wake/ waves then you would lower it

If it were me, I'd try a 17 pitch prop out to correctly load the motor and potentially improve fuel efficiency, although it might cost you a couple mph off the top end.

And it's chine-walk, which is typically a condition driven by hull design characteristics moreso than motor placement.
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Last edited by WTF?; 07-14-2019 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 02:47 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
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chine
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Originally Posted by WTF? View Post
And it's chine-walk



I'm satisfied with the performance of the SS prop over the aluminum,
I don't feel like making the engine turn more RPMs would benefit the life of the engine,
but hell what do I know, it might actually be better for a 2 stroke to scream,
I really don't know much about 2 strokes.
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Old 07-14-2019, 02:52 PM   #34 (permalink)
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That speed & rev equates to 12% slip which is very good, but the revs are low indicative that you're over propped; effectively lugging the engine throughout the range.

If your slip numbers are accurate and no current or tailwind is in play in that speed, then you definitely don't need to move the motor down any- that would increase drag and further slow down revs and reduce fuel efficiency.

If you had issues with the prop blowing out under way when you cross wake/ waves then you would lower it
I ran the boat upstream and downstream the water, and either way it ran 49 MPH no matter which way I was going.


I'm using a gps for speed verification.

Last edited by jblack; 07-14-2019 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 03:32 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I have a old retro jet boat with a 455 olds in it I'll make you a deal on and you won't have to worry about props anymore.
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Old 07-14-2019, 03:46 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblack View Post
Trimmed down WOT 4800 RPM, I didn't check speed while trimmed down.
Trimming up at WOT 5250 and 49 MPH with 2 or 4 people,
it doesn't matter whether 2 or 4 people it's 49 MPH at about 5250 and then it starts sucking air.

I suspect cavity height is the issue,
Knock on wood, It's been the most reliable boat that I've ever owned.
Just turn the key and go.

I think the PO had raised the engine to stop the china walk...
Sometimes he let his kids under 18 drive the boat and figured it would be safer if it didn't china walk and get a little sketchy. Just a guess though...

My 16 YO drove it last weekend and basically WOT at all times, and if it were possible for it to china walk then he could've let it get away from him IMO.

I'll have to check the cavity plate for levelness on the bottom of the boat,
just from my memory, I think it's about 3 inches above the bottom of the boat.
Run with that and be happy. How much trim you can put in the boat depends on so many factors. You numbers are great for the boat you have.
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Last edited by RSWORDS; 07-14-2019 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 07-14-2019, 04:08 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Run with that and be happy. How much trim you can put in the boat depends on so many factors. You numbers are great for the boat you have.
10-4 on that.
I'm satisfied at this point.
Heavy ass boat running 49 mph, I'm satisfied.

So far (knock on wood) I've never turned a wrench on it other than trading props and installing a new trolling motor.

Now do you have any suggestion for a similar bigger boat?
I really like deep aluminum boats over fiberglass, but that's just my preference.

But I'd like to have a DEEP 21-24 foot aluminum welded boat.

I do like the thoughts of a center console, but I do not know of any such beast in aluminum, I will never own another riveted boat EVER.
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:09 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblack View Post
10-4 on that.
I'm satisfied at this point.
Heavy ass boat running 49 mph, I'm satisfied.

So far (knock on wood) I've never turned a wrench on it other than trading props and installing a new trolling motor.

Now do you have any suggestion for a similar bigger boat?
I really like deep aluminum boats over fiberglass, but that's just my preference.

But I'd like to have a DEEP 21-24 foot aluminum welded boat.

I do like the thoughts of a center console, but I do not know of any such beast in aluminum, I will never own another riveted boat EVER.
We have a 30ish foot aluminum cabin boat for sale here at the shop.

Honestly you are just in the WOT range. You should go down a size in the prop to free it up a bit and not load the motor so much. You wont give up any speed but it will be easier on parts. I'd want to see 5600 if I was propping the boat
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Last edited by RSWORDS; 07-15-2019 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 07-15-2019, 01:15 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Thanks for your information,
I've owned a boat for many years but never had this issue, everything was already set up and ready to go.
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