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Old 07-24-2019, 10:30 AM   #126 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ev13wt View Post
First, buy gear.
Then, buy motorcycle.

Mostly, the smaller the engine - the lighter the bike.

All motorcycles, no matter their weight, will stop acting like a bike after 10 MPH. Push left to go left. If you pull left to go left, you will die. Corner too sharp? push to lean more and give some gas. If you brake - you die. If you try a bicycle move, you die.

On that point, no matter the bike - everyone else on the road DOES NOT SEE YOU and wants to kill you. Ride with that state of mind.

Their power is irrelevant, you have this lovely thing you can use to adjust the intake flap in the throttle body.

If it's an 800cc or smaller, you will be fine.

My humble suggestion (my brother is a motorcycle driving instructor and does thousands of miles in the twisties of the Alps each year) is: buy a smallish dirtbike with plates (street legal.)
Practice. Fall. Drift. Power drift. Crash. Do it again.
Buy street bike.
Biggest trick if you are used to riding a bicycle a lot is remembering that your brakes are not in the same place Panic and grab the right lever hard and endo.
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Old 07-24-2019, 10:32 AM   #127 (permalink)
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I dont know why, but that bike is exactly what I expect a race slipper wearing mustang driver to ride.





I have to admit, I kinda like it. Looks like a smaller version of my FZ1 with uglier paint
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Old 07-25-2019, 04:04 PM   #128 (permalink)
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https://www.amazon.com/SealMate-Fixe.../dp/B00ECDLVB8

Usually there is something jammed up in there at the seal. This works pretty good, for what it is. At least worth a try.

Just about everything motion pro makes is worth getting.

Seems worth a try at some point. Is the amount of oil lost while doing this something to be concerned about? I poked at the dust seal some and it is hard as a rock? I expected it to be softer. Seems like trying to separate it from the fork tube might fawk something up.

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I dont know why, but that bike is exactly what I expect a race slipper wearing mustang driver to ride.


I'll admit, It's a bit loud color wise for my tastes. The ones with the orange faring (instead of white) are a bit much. At least people can see you?

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Originally Posted by ev13wt View Post
First, buy gear.
Then, buy motorcycle.

Mostly, the smaller the engine - the lighter the bike.

All motorcycles, no matter their weight, will stop acting like a bike after 10 MPH. Push left to go left. If you pull left to go left, you will die. Corner too sharp? push to lean more and give some gas. If you brake - you die. If you try a bicycle move, you die.

On that point, no matter the bike - everyone else on the road DOES NOT SEE YOU and wants to kill you. Ride with that state of mind.

Their power is irrelevant, you have this lovely thing you can use to adjust the intake flap in the throttle body.

If it's an 800cc or smaller, you will be fine.

My humble suggestion (my brother is a motorcycle driving instructor and does thousands of miles in the twisties of the Alps each year) is: buy a smallish dirtbike with plates (street legal.)
Practice. Fall. Drift. Power drift. Crash. Do it again.
Buy street bike.
All good advice. Too late for the dirtbike now I put in about 50mi this morning around the neighborhood blocks. Practicing some panic stops, some figure 8's and clutch control in some cul-de-sac's, taking off from stop left and right, getting out between blocks up to 45mph. So far so good. The 'lil high strung thumper does not like to be lugged in too high a gear/too slow a speed and it lets you know. And the curb at the end of my driveway ain't shit

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post up when you get them please

unless your some hipster that likes skin tight jeans and a dick in your mouth
Not in the gear sharing mood just yet, nothing fancy anyway...

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Originally Posted by YJ4RoX View Post
If you have some old ass 35mm camera negative wrap it around the fork and slide it behind me the leaky seal. Spin and slide it out and it will usually pull out the debris causing the leak.

If you have to replace seals only use SKF. The KTM replacements are usually skf as well.
Thanks, I could see the film being relatively harmless. I need to figure out if I can even get the dust seal away from the tube to attempt this or the other suggestion.

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this guy has it figured out

lol. That's pretty damn clever!

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Biggest trick if you are used to riding a bicycle a lot is remembering that your brakes are not in the same place Panic and grab the right lever hard and endo.
I definitely had to unlearn that real fast since I spent decades ingraining that. I just picture them as being two completely different machines with different controls, nothing in common other than they have two wheels.

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I have to admit, I kinda like it. Looks like a smaller version of my FZ1 with uglier paint
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Old 07-25-2019, 05:16 PM   #129 (permalink)
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https://www.amazon.com/SealMate-Fixe.../dp/B00ECDLVB8

Usually there is something jammed up in there at the seal. This works pretty good, for what it is. At least worth a try.

Just about everything motion pro makes is worth getting.
No need for anything fancy, just use a old film negative/goggle tear off/piece of microfiche
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Old 07-25-2019, 06:42 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Seems worth a try at some point. Is the amount of oil lost while doing this something to be concerned about? I poked at the dust seal some and it is hard as a rock? I expected it to be softer. Seems like trying to separate it from the fork tube might fawk something up.



I definitely had to unlearn that real fast since I spent decades ingraining that. I just picture them as being two completely different machines with different controls, nothing in common other than they have two wheels.



They should be very firm so nothing gets in there, but somehow it still does. if you can get it to stop, I wouldn’t worry about the fluid lost, but keep it in the back of your mind to properly fix it one day.

I switched my bicycle brakes the other way around go I wouldn’t goof myself up.

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No need for anything fancy, just use a old film negative/goggle tear off/piece of microfiche
Since he’s a hipster, his camera and diagram machine is a iPhone. So that will be a little big.
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Old 07-25-2019, 06:44 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Dammit im a bad owner...everymorning i wake up at 430 and i go into my office to dress and i look at my gear as i turn on the light and i just move on to my car..i need to suck it up and start daily riding again. i mean i own the fucking thing..its insured and all that shit..it july and ive ridden 60 miles...

60

I did 12k my first year (its got 18k now)

I still love it..just dont have the time it seems
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:01 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Dammit im a bad owner...everymorning i wake up at 430 and i go into my office to dress and i look at my gear as i turn on the light and i just move on to my car..i need to suck it up and start daily riding again. i mean i own the fucking thing..its insured and all that shit..it july and ive ridden 60 miles...

60

I did 12k my first year (its got 18k now)

I still love it..just dont have the time it seems
I remember someone telling me how much I “should” be riding. Who was that?????

And I rode the FZ1 about 60 miles yesterday because the weather was nice.
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:26 PM   #133 (permalink)
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I remember someone telling me how much I “should” be riding. Who was that?????

And I rode the FZ1 about 60 miles yesterday because the weather was nice.
Ive been riding my fz1 in to work this week. 80 miles a day, saves a lot of gas.
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:42 PM   #134 (permalink)
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Ive been riding my fz1 in to work this week. 80 miles a day, saves a lot of gas.
I should be, with this low humidity we have this week, but I had some thing I had to bring back and forth to work, so I needed the truck. Work pays for fuel anyway tough, so there’s that.

The fuzzy is a fun ass bike.
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:44 PM   #135 (permalink)
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I should be, with this low humidity we have this week, but I had some thing I had to bring back and forth to work, so I needed the truck. Work pays for fuel anyway tough, so there’s that.

The fuzzy is a fun ass bike.
Yeah, if you have to haul much it doesn't work well. Ive got side and top cases so I can carry enough stuff to get laptop and some shoes to work
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Old 07-26-2019, 08:04 PM   #136 (permalink)
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They should be very firm so nothing gets in there, but somehow it still does. if you can get it to stop, I wouldn’t worry about the fluid lost, but keep it in the back of your mind to properly fix it one day.

Gotcha, looking through the manual I was surprised the fork has 5wt in it? Seem light. Sucks there are no real adjustments on it. I guess oil wt and springs would be it.

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Dammit im a bad owner...everymorning i wake up at 430 and i go into my office to dress and i look at my gear as i turn on the light and i just move on to my car..i need to suck it up and start daily riding again. i mean i own the fucking thing..its insured and all that shit..it july and ive ridden 60 miles...

60

I did 12k my first year (its got 18k now)

I still love it..just dont have the time it seems
What is considered a lot of miles for a bike? Does that # vary for say, a big single cylinder like this?

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Ive been riding my fz1 in to work this week. 80 miles a day, saves a lot of gas.
Wow, that's a haul on a bike. In a way, I wish I could ride my commute. In reality, the condition of the road surface, ever present ridiculous road debris (couches, mattresses, dining room tables, chairs, sheet metal duct work, washing machines), horrible uninsured illegal immigrant drivers... it'd be a death wish.

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I should be, with this low humidity we have this week, but I had some thing I had to bring back and forth to work, so I needed the truck. Work pays for fuel anyway tough, so there’s that.

The fuzzy is a fun ass bike.
I had the last couple days off, so made the most of it. Got another 50 or so miles in today, I definitely feel like I'm progressing. Heat shut it down about 11am, and its a fine balance between sleeping in a bit, and getting some riding in.
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Old 07-26-2019, 09:10 PM   #137 (permalink)
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Congrats, stay safe and have fun with it.
Putted on my Ninja just the other day, can't wait to put it to good use when things align. Figure 2000 miles each, bike and fun car is plenty for summer wheels...
You still rockin your Mustang?

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Old 07-27-2019, 09:58 AM   #138 (permalink)
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What is considered a lot of miles for a bike? Does that # vary for say, a big single cylinder like this?


not what i would consider. But look next spring the majority of bikes will be under 6k miles.

Id say 50k on my style of bike would be alot.

but your touring bikes you see them over 100k mile generally
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Old 07-27-2019, 11:03 AM   #139 (permalink)
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My fz1 has 62k on it. They are generally thought to be good for a minimum of 100k, high mark is currently 250k on one that i know of.
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Old 07-27-2019, 11:10 AM   #140 (permalink)
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I've been riding for almost 40 years on and off the road and was an Admin on 600RR.net. Staying around 80Hp for your first bike is a far better learning experience then starting on a bike with 100+Hp. Learning riding skills takes years to perfect and you'll learn much more from a bike that is slower in the straightaways because it teaches you how to carry maximum speed through the corners. It can force you to learn ALL of the tricks to maximize your lap times instead of relying too much of WOT for the straights and HARD front braking entering corners. It teaches you how to efficiently use the throttle to control the bike with less danger of high-siding yourself from making a mistake. Smooth fundamentals are the key to fast lap times....and good tires.
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Old 07-27-2019, 11:22 AM   #141 (permalink)
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not what i would consider. But look next spring the majority of bikes will be under 6k miles.

Id say 50k on my style of bike would be alot.

but your touring bikes you see them over 100k mile generally
Like any other vehicle mileage is completely dependent on the care from the owner. I've seen stunt bikes that were completely trashed at a few thousand miles. I have a 2004 600RR I bought brand new. The first year I put 15k miles on it. It now has almost 30k miles on it and the chain adjuster still shows it to be "New". It still has the OEM chain and sprocket set and shows little wear. How is that possible? I use Lucas 80-90w gear oil like the chain manufacture recommends instead of spray on crap from a can. The lesson here is listen to the manufacturer when it comes to maintenance and do the maintenance.
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Old 07-27-2019, 02:02 PM   #142 (permalink)
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not what i would consider. But look next spring the majority of bikes will be under 6k miles.

Id say 50k on my style of bike would be alot.

but your touring bikes you see them over 100k mile generally
Gotcha, didn't know what a good upper limit is. 50k'ish for most normal motorcycles? I had no idea the big tourers could do 100k

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My fz1 has 62k on it. They are generally thought to be good for a minimum of 100k, high mark is currently 250k on one that i know of.
That's sounds like a whole lot, I had seen a few Japanese bikes in the classifieds at 60-70k mi, but was kinda figuring that was the upper end.

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I've been riding for almost 40 years on and off the road and was an Admin on 600RR.net. Staying around 80Hp for your first bike is a far better learning experience then starting on a bike with 100+Hp. Learning riding skills takes years to perfect and you'll learn much more from a bike that is slower in the straightaways because it teaches you how to carry maximum speed through the corners. It can force you to learn ALL of the tricks to maximize your lap times instead of relying too much of WOT for the straights and HARD front braking entering corners. It teaches you how to efficiently use the throttle to control the bike with less danger of high-siding yourself from making a mistake. Smooth fundamentals are the key to fast lap times....and good tires.
Hey, thanks for the input. No lap times will be run but I do intend on mastering that level of skill and bike handling. Having some high HP cars under my belt, I never thought I'd see the day where I admitted a 45hp bike is currently somewhat frightening Having put in another ~60 or so miles today, I finally had the balls to get on it a bit in 4th on a straightaway with no obstructions. That little fawker pulls pretty hard above 6k rpm, really surprised me I'm already having a moment or two where I'm wishing I had more HP to work with (think the SV650 is rated around 70ish), oh well, that day will come. I guess I need to put in the time and fully master 45hp to the point where it doesn't surprise me to move up.

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Like any other vehicle mileage is completely dependent on the care from the owner. I've seen stunt bikes that were completely trashed at a few thousand miles. I have a 2004 600RR I bought brand new. The first year I put 15k miles on it. It now has almost 30k miles on it and the chain adjuster still shows it to be "New". It still has the OEM chain and sprocket set and shows little wear. How is that possible? I use Lucas 80-90w gear oil like the chain manufacture recommends instead of spray on crap from a can. The lesson here is listen to the manufacturer when it comes to maintenance and do the maintenance.
Good points. The Rebel I rode in the MSF class was pretty ragged out, only had 7kish miles. I think they maintain them reasonably they just get so much abuse by every noob in the classes. This KTM I snagged had 4700 on it, it seems to be in good shape.

80w-90 gear oil for chain lube? I tried some of the spray on wax stuff and it completely sucks. How do you apply the gear oil? Do you let it sit for a while before wiping excess off? How are you wiping it off?



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Congrats, stay safe and have fun with it.
Putted on my Ninja just the other day, can't wait to put it to good use when things align. Figure 2000 miles each, bike and fun car is plenty for summer wheels...
You still rockin your Mustang?
Thanks, appreciate it Yep, still got the Mustang. I'm 50+ miles from the track so haven't been doing much with it except hitting the occasional cruise night, and random blast through the twisties a couple times this year.
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Old 07-27-2019, 02:43 PM   #143 (permalink)
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My ktm950s has 45k on it right now. Runs like a raped ape everywhere I go. 80 miles a day commute. 99% 90mph. Road to the house is 3 miles of dirt that parallels I-40.
It's a blast passing people on the highway while i'm in the dirt. It'll lift the front wheel through 3rd gear if you clutch it just right. 1st gear wheelies all day with the flick of a wrist.



There are a couple out there on the forums pushing 200k now.
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Old 07-27-2019, 03:20 PM   #144 (permalink)
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That's sounds like a whole lot, I had seen a few Japanese bikes in the classifieds at 60-70k mi, but was kinda figuring that was the upper end.
Depends entirely on the bike, engine and previous owner. The 4 cyl liter sport touring bikes are basically a small car engine.
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Old 07-27-2019, 08:38 PM   #145 (permalink)
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Gotcha, looking through the manual I was surprised the fork has 5wt in it? Seem light. Sucks there are no real adjustments on it. I guess oil wt and springs would be it.



What is considered a lot of miles for a bike? Does that # vary for say, a big single cylinder like this?



Wow, that's a haul on a bike. In a way, I wish I could ride my commute. In reality, the condition of the road surface, ever present ridiculous road debris (couches, mattresses, dining room tables, chairs, sheet metal duct work, washing machines), horrible uninsured illegal immigrant drivers... it'd be a death wish.



I had the last couple days off, so made the most of it. Got another 50 or so miles in today, I definitely feel like I'm progressing. Heat shut it down about 11am, and its a fine balance between sleeping in a bit, and getting some riding in.
Technically it’s a “cheap” starter bike, so there’s not going to be much of any adjustment. If you want to dial it in you’ll need to change springs and weight of oil. My ninja 300 I changed the springs, added a “gold valve emulators” and changed fork oil weight. It’s completely adjusted for me, for track use. Bigger, more performance oriented bikes will have all these adjustments already there. My Ducati has preload, compression and rebound adjustments front and rear, plus ride height and rake adjustments.

Most modern bikes are somewhat the same as cars as far as mileage longevity, but anything over 30ish thousand is considered “worn out” mostly because of old school thinking, but in reality, there is nothing wrong with them. It’s really not uncommon to have a “high mileage” bike anymore. Many people (like me) buy and sell them just to have something different. It’s really no big deal. Just the way it is on a “toy”. 100k on one like my FZ1 is much more common and even 200k can easily be done without any major malfunctions. Except Harley’s. Harley’s suck harley guy to prove me wrong in 3....2...1...

Keep practicing. That’s all it is. Practice. Make it routine and natural.
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Old 07-27-2019, 08:44 PM   #146 (permalink)
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My fz1 has 62k on it. They are generally thought to be good for a minimum of 100k, high mark is currently 250k on one that i know of.
You are probably talking about that one chick that has well over 200k on hers. That’s cool as shit and a ton of miles on a bike. I probably have only have 150k on all my bikes total in 20ish years.
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Old 07-28-2019, 09:39 AM   #147 (permalink)
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80w-90 gear oil for chain lube? I tried some of the spray on wax stuff and it completely sucks. How do you apply the gear oil? Do you let it sit for a while before wiping excess off? How are you wiping it off?
First, buy a rear stand if your bike doesn't have a center stand. Put the bike in Neutral. Fold an old cotton hand towel into @ a 6"x6" square. Apply the oil down the center of the rag liberally and then grip the bottom of the chain with the oiled rag. Slowly rotate the rear tire as you hold the rag allowing the chain to slide through the rag. Make sure you rotate the tire backwards so the chain is always moving away from your hand. No sense in loosing fingers trying to oil a chain. You'll probably need to apply more oil as needed until the chain gets noticeably quite.

All this takes is a few minutes every 500 miles or anytime the chain gets wet. Make sure the chain is not too tight, don't pop wheelies or drag race, and make sure the chain adjusters are squared up and the rear tire is true.

Now that doesn't mean you have to baby the thing in order to get longevity. I'm a heavy engine braker and have done lots of hard acceleration during many track days.
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Old 07-28-2019, 11:01 AM   #148 (permalink)
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I'm in the wipe it off with wd40 once in a while camp. Oring chains don't really need any lube.
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Old 08-01-2019, 06:54 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Tims86Toy View Post
Like any other vehicle mileage is completely dependent on the care from the owner. I've seen stunt bikes that were completely trashed at a few thousand miles. I have a 2004 600RR I bought brand new. The first year I put 15k miles on it. It now has almost 30k miles on it and the chain adjuster still shows it to be "New". It still has the OEM chain and sprocket set and shows little wear. How is that possible? I use Lucas 80-90w gear oil like the chain manufacture recommends instead of spray on crap from a can. The lesson here is listen to the manufacturer when it comes to maintenance and do the maintenance.
Your right, the amount of times ive seen "new fork seals" on a bike with 5k miles is hilarious, which come from wheeling generally.

you might ought to check your teeth. I lubed and cleaned mine once a month and it was fine at 14k when i changed gearing but you could see the wear on the teeth. Tension isnt really where your wear comes from its on the teeth. I also lubed it after riding in the rain.

but i only have to change tension when i replace my rear tire.

My manf says to use yamalube 15w40 oil. I use rotella t6 its a fuckin game changer on a wet clutch. Still change it every 3k...sometimes 5k


There a whole lot of different conversations we could have on maintenance and alot of its subjected to you but ill end it with this.

When you break down in a car you have a bunch of sheet metal between you and the outside world. A bike doesnt have that luxury and you maight not always coast to a stop.
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Old 08-04-2019, 03:33 PM   #150 (permalink)
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My ktm950s has 45k on it right now. Runs like a raped ape everywhere I go. 80 miles a day commute. 99% 90mph. Road to the house is 3 miles of dirt that parallels I-40.
It's a blast passing people on the highway while i'm in the dirt. It'll lift the front wheel through 3rd gear if you clutch it just right. 1st gear wheelies all day with the flick of a wrist.
Nice, I saw a couple pics of your ride in the motorcycle picture game thread

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Originally Posted by Rttoys View Post
Technically it’s a “cheap” starter bike, so there’s not going to be much of any adjustment. If you want to dial it in you’ll need to change springs and weight of oil. My ninja 300 I changed the springs, added a “gold valve emulators” and changed fork oil weight. It’s completely adjusted for me, for track use. Bigger, more performance oriented bikes will have all these adjustments already there. My Ducati has preload, compression and rebound adjustments front and rear, plus ride height and rake adjustments.

Most modern bikes are somewhat the same as cars as far as mileage longevity, but anything over 30ish thousand is considered “worn out” mostly because of old school thinking, but in reality, there is nothing wrong with them. It’s really not uncommon to have a “high mileage” bike anymore. Many people (like me) buy and sell them just to have something different. It’s really no big deal. Just the way it is on a “toy”. 100k on one like my FZ1 is much more common and even 200k can easily be done without any major malfunctions. Except Harley’s. Harley’s suck harley guy to prove me wrong in 3....2...1...

Well I traded one cheap beginner bike for another relatively cheap, relatively beginner bike (see below)… Harley's do suck, I can't believe the premium they bring for what otherwise seems like an inferior product

Keep practicing. That’s all it is. Practice. Make it routine and natural.
Well I traded one cheap beginner bike for another relatively cheap, relatively beginner bike (see below)… Harley's do suck, I can't believe the premium they bring for what otherwise seems like an inferior product

I'm trying to ride as much as I can, heat kills riding by 11am usually. Once it cools down I plan to get out quite a bit more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tims86Toy View Post
First, buy a rear stand if your bike doesn't have a center stand. Put the bike in Neutral. Fold an old cotton hand towel into @ a 6"x6" square. Apply the oil down the center of the rag liberally and then grip the bottom of the chain with the oiled rag. Slowly rotate the rear tire as you hold the rag allowing the chain to slide through the rag. Make sure you rotate the tire backwards so the chain is always moving away from your hand. No sense in loosing fingers trying to oil a chain. You'll probably need to apply more oil as needed until the chain gets noticeably quite.

All this takes is a few minutes every 500 miles or anytime the chain gets wet. Make sure the chain is not too tight, don't pop wheelies or drag race, and make sure the chain adjusters are squared up and the rear tire is true.

Now that doesn't mean you have to baby the thing in order to get longevity. I'm a heavy engine braker and have done lots of hard acceleration during many track days.
Cool, appreciate the tip, I'm going to give it a try. I got some swingarm spools on the way and the hazard frought motorcycle stand to hopefully help out with this task.

Quote:
Originally Posted by A_G View Post
Your right, the amount of times ive seen "new fork seals" on a bike with 5k miles is hilarious, which come from wheeling generally.

you might ought to check your teeth. I lubed and cleaned mine once a month and it was fine at 14k when i changed gearing but you could see the wear on the teeth. Tension isnt really where your wear comes from its on the teeth. I also lubed it after riding in the rain.

but i only have to change tension when i replace my rear tire.

My manf says to use yamalube 15w40 oil. I use rotella t6 its a fuckin game changer on a wet clutch. Still change it every 3k...sometimes 5k


There a whole lot of different conversations we could have on maintenance and alot of its subjected to you but ill end it with this.

When you break down in a car you have a bunch of sheet metal between you and the outside world. A bike doesnt have that luxury and you maight not always coast to a stop.
Appreciate all the tips and maintenance ideas, I'm all ears on advice!


Well, this escalated quickly Byebye KTM, (was a nice 500 mi I spent with ya), hello SV 650...

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Last edited by FlexyTJ; 08-04-2019 at 04:04 PM.
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