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Old 10-27-2019, 12:55 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I love PEX! I use the stainless crimps and for anyone curious about the new Ryobi cordless crimp tool all I can say it's amazing! I just installed an outdoor wood boiler and used 1.25 Pex underground and switched to 1" in house, used the Ryobi exclusively and love it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvS1UhO9cJM
of course I have the complete arsenal of Ryobi tools in my garage so I may be partial
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Old 10-27-2019, 01:01 PM   #27 (permalink)
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WTF? buy the straight shit if you want straight pipe. Every store carries it.
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Old 10-27-2019, 01:05 PM   #28 (permalink)
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WTF? buy the straight shit if you want straight pipe. Every store carries it.
in 20' long pieces.

If I'm roughing a hole house it's a couple of 100' roll for me to start!

Cut to size and nail it up on the floor joist straight.
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Old 10-27-2019, 02:59 PM   #29 (permalink)
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in 20' long pieces.

If I'm roughing a hole house it's a couple of 100' roll for me to start!

Cut to size and nail it up on the floor joist straight.
Are they 20's? seems like they are 10's in fact I bought 3/4"one time so I'm sure they're 10's at Home Depot. Maybe 20's at the plumbing supply places. Usually gets cut up anyway, longest run I've ever needed was about 8' . Need it to stay put because it was tied to a refrigerator that needed to be pulled out for cleaning occasionally Boss wanted a water cooler for the employees but didn't like how slow the bottles filled with the industrial model coolers. I came up with a refrigerator and a Keg tap mounted to the side, hooked to a coil of 1" pex that I shrank down and fixed to the lower half of the refrigerator. Turns out a 100' of 1" pex holds about 7 Gallons of water. Fills cups instantly with cold water. The employees love it.
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Old 10-27-2019, 03:08 PM   #30 (permalink)
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We stock 5', 10' and 20' straight lengths, and various coil lengths.

A bulk coil might look funny if you are not an experienced installer but it dramatically reduces the number of joints.

That makes the system more leak proof, and costs less.

Fewer joints = fewer fittings & clamps, and fewer potential leak points.
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Old 10-27-2019, 03:10 PM   #31 (permalink)
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We stock 5', 10' and 20' straight lengths, and various coil lengths.

A bulk coil might look funny if you are not an experienced installer but it dramatically reduces the number of joints.

That makes the system more leak proof, and costs less.

Fewer joints = fewer fittings & clamps, and fewer potential leak points.
and better water flow.
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Old 10-27-2019, 03:11 PM   #32 (permalink)
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more than likely.

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Old 10-27-2019, 04:47 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Try over at The Garage Journal
Lots of threads regarding in slab radiant
Thank you
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Old 10-27-2019, 04:50 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Any tricks to straightening this shit? I bought a roll of 3/4 and i cannot get the pieces to retain a straight form. I had part of the roll unwound and in front of the pellet stove to where it was hot but it just slowly bends back. I had no issues with 1/2".

Trying to make decent looking plumbing in the basement, which will eventually be finished.
next time buy straight lengths instead of the coils. it's the same price per foot.
PS. Fuck PEX

Last edited by bassdude; 10-27-2019 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 10-27-2019, 04:54 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I love PEX! I use the stainless crimps and for anyone curious about the new Ryobi cordless crimp tool all I can say it's amazing! I just installed an outdoor wood boiler and used 1.25 Pex underground and switched to 1" in house, used the Ryobi exclusively and love it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvS1UhO9cJM
of course I have the complete arsenal of Ryobi tools in my garage so I may be partial
Wish I would have had that a few weeks ago when I was trying to crimp some 1" up between two floor joists.
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Old 10-27-2019, 05:33 PM   #36 (permalink)
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A number of things to address here;
To clarify we use Uponor, not regular Pex. This is due to the number of failures of Pex (always the fittings from my experience), and because of the better flow rate.

PVC waterlines? Gawd that just screams hack, DIY'er, or lowest possible bidder.
I wouldn't have it in anything I owned. And PVC without using either Cleaner or Primer? No frikin' way! I've seen numerous joints come apart from doing this. The other problem with PVC waterlines is how brittle it becomes with age, and I'm talking about lines inside the house not exposed to the Sun or excessive heat.

20' lengths in a House install usually doesn't require many if any couplings since there's usually 90's or Tee's cut in along the way.

I've only used a handful of Shark fittings over the years, mostly as a tempory install or due to a desperate situation.
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Old 10-27-2019, 11:33 PM   #37 (permalink)
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For starters waterhead is a moron in this subject. Around here pvc is only aloud in a building for non pressure lines, think drains! That shit is for land scrapers and that’s it. The glue has a life span. Pex a is the best it take expand fittings for full port flow and it’s softer and bends easier. Pex b is more solid but still bends and is more consistently round, that’s why shark bite fittings work better on it. If your doing hydronics or floor heating you’ll want a pex with an O2 barrier to keep the oxygen out of your boiler and pumps.
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Old 10-28-2019, 06:27 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Any owner installs here in concrete of radiant heat slab ?
ill be doing it soon in my basement

i have no idea what im doing but my plumber said keep the loops 250' long
about 6 circuits
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Old 10-28-2019, 07:07 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Pex rocks, at least the expander pex.

Redid my whole house in 2 days, solo in a crawlspace. 0 leaks, which is more than I can say for the "Professionally Installed" cpvc that was there. Also was able to pull direct to all of the shower valves where the CPVC guys had stubbed to the galvanized. No more rust showers.

The only thing I haven't done is the feed from the street the to house, waiting until I have all my digging projects lined up to rent one and knock everything out.

And shartbites suck. They aren't even a "PEX" product, they are for use in an emergency with just about everything, and much like do everything products they do it all mediocre at best
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:09 AM   #40 (permalink)
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I use the cinch fittings and bands.

Near impossible to get straight. I think its funny you tried to straighten it before using it... never considered that but it has to be a waste of time.

Just use the nail in holders often. The water weight and temp will bend pex.
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:41 AM   #41 (permalink)
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I jus redid a good bit of plumbing in my house. replaced CPVC with PEX still some CPVC but its not a big deal yet. If the showers ever get ripped out, the remaining CPVC will be removed. Crimped most everything except where I made connections with CPVC
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:46 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Ok quick question on pex. I know recently in Washington they changed the TPRV plumbing code, finally, to no longer allow PVC as it doesn’t have the temp rating. Does pex have that temp rating? Or is it still copper, galvanized, CPVC only still?


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Old 10-28-2019, 09:03 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Ok quick question on pex. I know recently in Washington they changed the TPRV plumbing code, finally, to no longer allow PVC as it doesn’t have the temp rating. Does pex have that temp rating? Or is it still copper, galvanized, CPVC only still?


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Old 10-28-2019, 09:13 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Ok quick question on pex. I know recently in Washington they changed the TPRV plumbing code, finally, to no longer allow PVC as it doesn’t have the temp rating. Does pex have that temp rating? Or is it still copper, galvanized, CPVC only still?


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Wa state. i dont know a single plumber that doesn't use propex. i haven't seen a house, new or remodel plumbed with anything else in at least 5 maybe closer to 10 years. the last copper plumbed home, on one of my jobs, i can recall was 15years ago. i'm in the islands up north, island/ skagit county is my main service area, live in about as far north on Whidbey Is. as you can get. maybe its different where your at.

cpvc i've only ever seen used in mobile/ manufactured homes. or the east side.
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Old 10-28-2019, 09:25 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Wa state. i dont know a single plumber that doesn't use propex. i haven't seen a house, new or remodel plumbed with anything else in at least 5 maybe closer to 10 years. the last copper plumbed home, on one of my jobs, i can recall was 15years ago. i'm in the islands up north, island/ skagit county is my main service area, live in about as far north on Whidbey Is. as you can get. maybe its different where your at.



cpvc i've only ever seen used in mobile/ manufactured homes. or the east side.


I see a lot of cpvc on 2000’s manufactured homes for whole house plumbing and a lot on stick built for 90’s-early 2000’s. I see pvc on TPRV plumbing everywhere and its not temp rated. Also looked at a new install manufacturer home about 2 weeks ago that was copper. Go figure.

Most new construction I see is pex. I have noticed they are upsizing it for multiple story houses. Inspected a mini mega-mansion on lake washington in Seattle probably 6 years ago now and with 1/2” pex throughout you had about 2psi on the 3rd floor. They had to install a booster pump so they could use the master bathroom. ?

I am in far east lewis county and we are closer to E. Washington’s climate than W. Washington’s so that maybe has something to do with it?


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Old 10-28-2019, 09:35 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Meh, did industrial equipment plumbing for over 40 yrs. Each material has their pluses and minuses particularly if folks misapply for a given application AND over time or screw up on the install.

Ive seen Copper corrode/erode at els and tee due to wrong size being used cuz folks were cheap.

Ive seen SST pipe get corroded in an acid evaprator tank and get replaced 2x in 3 yrs cuz folks didnt want to respec the sst grade and schedule for cost reasons.

Ive seen PVC literally get shot across a warehouse and imbed in the opposite wall cuz folks were being cheap and used PVC instead of SST on an exhaust line that detonated when a line with Hydrogen just above the LEL ignited when an electrostatic precipitator arced.

I just had the pleasure of yanking drywall in a room because the guy that did the bathroom used PTFE tape on a PEX-1/2NPT valve fitting incorrectly, it wasn't pressure tested properly (or at all is my guess) and I'm repairing the damages from a 2 yr old continuous leak...

Ultimately it boils down to poor workmanship and/or misspec of the material for the application.

Bottom line?
Get it right the 1st time.
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Old 10-28-2019, 01:59 PM   #47 (permalink)
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ill be doing it soon in my basement

i have no idea what im doing but my plumber said keep the loops 250' long
about 6 circuits
Go the https://www.radiantec.com/ site and what Jimbo said. Lot's of misinformation in this thread. - giz

Just my $0.02. Some of this noise is about hack job plumbing. When you install in a pcc slab you get one chance. I would re-think your approach about using PBB in any depth and relying on and Home Depot shit.
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Old 10-28-2019, 02:41 PM   #48 (permalink)
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And PVC without using either Cleaner or Primer? No frikin' way! I've seen numerous joints come apart from doing this.
We've assembled literally hundreds of miles of PVC without cleaner or primer, with glue joint failures I can can count on one hand. Granted, that's clean, new pipe, and it's buried so it can't really go anywhere if it wanted to. Repairs always get the full treatment.

My only gripe with PEX is a marginally smaller ID on the pipe. Told a plumber we needed a 1" backflow to feed a 1.5" main. He fed about 15' of 1" PEX out of a riser room and it choked the flow down to the point the system wouldn't work as designed.

In a house I'd still prefer copper. But, it costs an arm and a leg comparatively, and lots of plumbers just won't do it because they don't want to be on one job that long.
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Old 10-28-2019, 02:53 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Meh, did industrial equipment plumbing for over 40 yrs. Each material has their pluses and minuses particularly if folks misapply for a given application AND over time or screw up on the install.

Ive seen Copper corrode/erode at els and tee due to wrong size being used cuz folks were cheap.

Ive seen SST pipe get corroded in an acid evaprator tank and get replaced 2x in 3 yrs cuz folks didnt want to respec the sst grade and schedule for cost reasons.

Ive seen PVC literally get shot across a warehouse and imbed in the opposite wall cuz folks were being cheap and used PVC instead of SST on an exhaust line that detonated when a line with Hydrogen just above the LEL ignited when an electrostatic precipitator arced.

I just had the pleasure of yanking drywall in a room because the guy that did the bathroom used PTFE tape on a PEX-1/2NPT valve fitting incorrectly, it wasn't pressure tested properly (or at all is my guess) and I'm repairing the damages from a 2 yr old continuous leak...

Ultimately it boils down to poor workmanship and/or misspec of the material for the application.

Bottom line?
Get it right the 1st time.





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Old 10-28-2019, 08:00 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Rats. This is my biggest concern with using pex.Name:  20190625_110731_1572314322520.jpg
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