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Old 11-26-2019, 09:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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TH400 Rebuild kits

TH400 Rebuild kits

im going to try to rebuild th400 myself

there are few different rebuild kits ranging from 120-500$

my tranny still work but slips in first gear at high rpm when i give it lot of throttle

i ordered the THM 400 Techtran Manual, ATSG Automatic Transmission Service
book to start with

looking into which kit is the best . monster transmission etc., have multiple choices

i need little help to chose which kit i need
thanks

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Old 11-26-2019, 09:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Best deal I found was from summit - their house brand and performance kit is actually an alto red kit. But since we don’t know your intended use you may not need the performance kit...
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Old 11-26-2019, 10:16 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I get mine from Transtar with the upgraded clutches along with a rebuilt convertor.
And I get the B&M shift kit from Summit

Last edited by KWTMECH; 11-26-2019 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 11-26-2019, 12:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Best deal I found was from summit - their house brand and performance kit is actually an alto red kit. But since we donít know your intended use you may not need the performance kit...
its going behind 140Hp diesel i dont really need any performance kit

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Originally Posted by KWTMECH View Post
I get mine from Transtar with the upgraded clutches along with a rebuilt convertor.
And I get the B&M shift kit from Summit
i have to reuse my TC its made to work with the adapter/flexplate

sound like transtar and alto is good brand to go with?




















from reading here its stupid simple to rebuild just not sure which parts are good and what to stay away

this will be my first tranny
i got quoted 1000$ to rebuild from shop
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Old 11-26-2019, 12:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fredycruger View Post
its going behind 140Hp diesel i dont really need any performance kit



i have to reuse my TC its made to work with the adapter/flexplate

sound like transtar and alto is good brand to go with?




















from reading here its stupid simple to rebuild just not sure which parts are good and what to stay away

this will be my first tranny
i got quoted 1000$ to rebuild from shop

Ah I remember my first tranny.

Actually the first turbo 400 rebuild I watched was when I was 16 in my buddy's gfs truck. He pulled it out and had her rebuild it. We had no idea what we were doing so she just layed everything out in a big line on butcher's paper in the driveway. Cleaned everything and replaced the old parts with the new parts. Put back togeather in reverse order and that truck is still driving around to this day, 19 years later.

Seeing how simple it was was one of the main things that has made me not scared to tear into anything
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Old 11-26-2019, 12:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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This was the kit I used for mine.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-705021/

Complete kit with everything needed with upgraded clutches and steels.

The rebuild is fairly easy. Two things to note, if you can have the trans upside down when you pull the valve body and take a picture of the check ball locations. Some of the diagrams make it rather confusing as to where they go.

Second make sure to take a picture of how the bushing in the center support is installed. The manual I used made no notes of it and I ended up installing it incorrect the first time and had no reverse. It gave me hell trying to figure out that issue.

Other than that itís not too bad. Take your time, keep everything clean and organized and there should be no issues.
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Old 11-26-2019, 12:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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This was the kit I used for mine.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-705021/

Complete kit with everything needed with upgraded clutches and steels.

The rebuild is fairly easy. Two things to note, if you can have the trans upside down when you pull the valve body and take a picture of the check ball locations. Some of the diagrams make it rather confusing as to where they go.

Second make sure to take a picture of how the bushing in the center support is installed. The manual I used made no notes of it and I ended up installing it incorrect the first time and had no reverse. It gave me hell trying to figure out that issue.

Other than that it’s not too bad. Take your time, keep everything clean and organized and there should be no issues.
thanks man
i saw your thread and what you were dealing with


what are the chances ill need more than the 241$ rebuild kit
next kit is 500 something$

also 240$ kit has modulator i dont need,as im using cable operated modulator


240$
Notes:Kit includes Premium Kolene steels, modulator, and bands included. 10-Frictions - Forward, Direct-Red, 3-Frictions - Intermediate-Red, 5-Steels - Forward-Kolene, 3-Steels - Intermediate-Kolene, 5-Steels - Direct-Kolene, 1-Filter-Brass media, 1-Modulator, 1-Band-Front, 1-Full bushing kit. Reverse band not included.


140 $
Notes:Kit includes 10 frictions - forward, direct, 3 frictions - intermediate, 5 steels - forward, 3 steels - intermediate, 5 steels - direct, 1 band - 2nd gear, 1 filter, and 1 bushing kit. Does not include modulator..

Last edited by fredycruger; 11-26-2019 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 11-26-2019, 12:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I went with the $240 cause it had everything I needed, I didnt know what shape the trans was in and wanted it all new throughout. Also you are paying a little more for the better friction and steels which I see as piece of mind knowing the trans will hold more than what you are gonna throw at it.
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Old 11-26-2019, 01:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yer gonna need snap ring pliers and some method of compressing the springs in the clutch packs to remove/install the snap rings. A shop press works nicely using a homemade jig. Blow everything dry after cleaning in solvent. Do not wipe with a paper or cloth towel. Make sure you air check all the hydraulic functions before final assembly in case a lip seal has rolled or gotten cut. You can make yer own seal installer as well. A rubber tipped air nozzle works well for air checking. Remove the valve body with trans upside down to preserve the location of the check balls-this is key. Use a pencil magnet to remove them and a metal scribe to mark an "x" next to the pocket for the check ball. Take yer time and do not force anything. Make damn sure all the clutches are seated in place on the splines for example when assembling. Use a air nozzle on the center support bolt oil passage to assist in seating the splines on that clutch pack. It is a dick sometimes. The ATSG manual is a good one. Always replace the front pump bushing and the rear case bushing (At the very least) or have a shop do it. This is not a trans I would recommend for a first timer to rebuild but man it is dirt simple. Hopefully you discover what is causing the slip you speak of. Izzit low line pressure in first or clutches at the end of their use?
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Old 11-26-2019, 03:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fredycruger View Post
TH400 Rebuild kits

im going to try to rebuild th400 myself

there are few different rebuild kits ranging from 120-500$

my tranny still work but slips in first gear at high rpm when i give it lot of throttle

i ordered the THM 400 Techtran Manual, ATSG Automatic Transmission Service
book to start with

looking into which kit is the best . monster transmission etc., have multiple choices

i need little help to chose which kit i need
thanks

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Old 11-26-2019, 04:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Old 11-27-2019, 05:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yer gonna need snap ring pliers and some method of compressing the springs in the clutch packs to remove/install the snap rings. A shop press works nicely using a homemade jig. Blow everything dry after cleaning in solvent. Do not wipe with a paper or cloth towel. Make sure you air check all the hydraulic functions before final assembly in case a lip seal has rolled or gotten cut. You can make yer own seal installer as well. A rubber tipped air nozzle works well for air checking. Remove the valve body with trans upside down to preserve the location of the check balls-this is key. Use a pencil magnet to remove them and a metal scribe to mark an "x" next to the pocket for the check ball. Take yer time and do not force anything. Make damn sure all the clutches are seated in place on the splines for example when assembling. Use a air nozzle on the center support bolt oil passage to assist in seating the splines on that clutch pack. It is a dick sometimes. The ATSG manual is a good one. Always replace the front pump bushing and the rear case bushing (At the very least) or have a shop do it. This is not a trans I would recommend for a first timer to rebuild but man it is dirt simple. Hopefully you discover what is causing the slip you speak of. Izzit low line pressure in first or clutches at the end of their use?
thanks for your input

i got shop press and some cheap HF snap ring pliers that need to be replaced.
can you recommend snap ring pliers to make job easier?

i dont have modulator hooked up. it is possible there is low line pressure and slips
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Old 11-27-2019, 06:06 AM   #13 (permalink)
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CK performance transmission is big in the turbo Buick world. They offer a rebuild book with tips and tricks on how to rebuild a tranny. They offer one for the th400 but its $75. Might be worth the extra money.
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Old 11-27-2019, 06:49 AM   #14 (permalink)
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i have the other book coming, well see
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Old 11-27-2019, 07:38 AM   #15 (permalink)
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thanks for your input

i got shop press and some cheap HF snap ring pliers that need to be replaced.
can you recommend snap ring pliers to make job easier?

i dont have modulator hooked up. it is possible there is low line pressure and slips
Knipex makes excellent snap wring pliers. And all other pliers for that matter.
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Old 11-27-2019, 08:00 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Knipex makes excellent snap wring pliers. And all other pliers for that matter.
Pricey, but worth it for sure.
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Old 11-27-2019, 08:15 AM   #17 (permalink)
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do i need flat kind? or the one with little nubs ?
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Old 11-27-2019, 11:50 AM   #18 (permalink)
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All my snap ring pliers are made by Snap-On and have the stipling nubs for better grip. I have another pair with a small divot in the end of each arm to capture the angled ends of the snap ring. I prefer either the 90 degree flat jawed or the straight flat jawed pliers with the stipling. Make damn sure those snap rings are fully seated on assembly and wear eye/face protection and take yer time.
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Old 11-27-2019, 12:55 PM   #19 (permalink)
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All my snap ring pliers are made by Snap-On and have the stipling nubs for better grip. I have another pair with a small divot in the end of each arm to capture the angled ends of the snap ring. I prefer either the 90 degree flat jawed or the straight flat jawed pliers with the stipling. Make damn sure those snap rings are fully seated on assembly and wear eye/face protection and take yer time.
what type of snap rings does the 400 have ?angled ends or with holes
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Old 11-27-2019, 01:17 PM   #20 (permalink)
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i
this will be my first tranny
i got quoted 1000$ to rebuild from shop
Don't lie to us.... also just pay the shop.

Done and done. $500 in parts and letting someone who does it all day long for another $500 sounds solid in my book.
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Old 11-27-2019, 01:43 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Don't lie to us.... also just pay the shop.

Done and done. $500 in parts and letting someone who does it all day long for another $500 sounds solid in my book.
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i haven't work 4 months ,just got back to work

its more like 350 in parts with shift kit if i do it myself

id still have to haul it off island and bring it back, thats another 200$ and lost 2 days of work
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Old 11-27-2019, 03:54 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Old 11-27-2019, 05:15 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Put a hole in your bench top. Pull shit out of the front of the transmission, flip it front side down and stack it up the way you pulled it out of the transmission.

Then when you get down to the bare case, powerwash it real good, and blow it out completely with compressed air. Try to not use any rags as they will leave lint and can cause an issue plugging shit up. Put your transmission tail end down on another low bench or stand (I built one out of a disk blade, a piece of pipe, and another disk with a hole in it for the tailshaft to keep the transmission 18" or so above the floor so I didn't have to bend down so far. MSpaint diagram below.)

Name:  transbuildstand.jpg
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Then pull the top piece off of your tree of stacked up parts, clean it in the solvent tank, blow it off with compressed air, replace anything that needs replaced on it (lip seals, bushings, thrust washers, sealing rings, etc.) and then put it back into the cleaned transmission case. Rinse and repeat over and over until you have it all back in. Check your shaft endplay when you're done and make sure it is tight enough.

Take the valve body apart carefully and make sure you note the locations of any check balls, maybe make a drawing or snap a quick picture before cleaning it up. Make sure all the spool valves move freely in their bores. I wouldn't take them out unless you need to to put shift kit components in anyhow. Once again clean in solvent and blow dry, no rags for the valve body.

Congrats, you just rebuilt your first transmission

EDIT: Oh yeah as others have said get some good snap ring pliers, and you'll probably have to rig up a way of compressing springs to take some of the clutch packs apart. I've used those F style clamps from harbor freight and some random pieces of pipe and washers before, or if you wanna get fancy I'm sure you could figure out something with a piece of all thread and the right sized spacers or a press and spacers. All you have to do is take the spring pressure off the back of the snap ring so you can safely get it out and then let the spring pressure off safely.
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Last edited by billybob_81067; 11-27-2019 at 05:17 PM.
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Old 11-27-2019, 09:49 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Am I the only one that has questions about Ms. Whiteclaw?
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Old 11-27-2019, 09:55 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Am I the only one that has questions about Ms. Whiteclaw?
You are not. No.

And honestly Iím extremely surprised it took 23 posts before someone mentioned it.
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