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Old 12-05-2019, 07:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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High dollar synthetics worth the money?

Ive had geat luck with the Shell Rotella 5-40 in diesel applications , (it gets cold here ) its available from wally world for $20.00+/- a gallon. The synthetic Mobil Delvac and Valvoline 5-40 is about the same ...But then you can get Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Motul ( and more brands Im sure) that are crazy in price...my question is if there is anyone here that's found a justification in this high dollar crap besides racing. Long drain intervals make me worry, so it dosent work out for me.

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Old 12-05-2019, 07:58 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Swapping to synthetic is the most efficient way I know to nuke an otherwise well cared for motor without doing anything out of the ordinary.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Swapping to synthetic is the most efficient way I know to nuke an otherwise well cared for motor without doing anything out of the ordinary.
And in true Pirate fashion I can wholeheartedly say that I run only synthetics in everything I own, once broken in, and have had zero issues with it.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Swapping to synthetic is the most efficient way I know to nuke an otherwise well cared for motor without doing anything out of the ordinary.
What he said. I have a friend that switched to Mobil1 synthetic on two cars and they died because of the switch. I don’t want to discuss the failures because they were not mine. He is a man of great knowledge with engine lubrication since the failures. Lol.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I’m a Scamzoil supporter
I run it in everything and have never had an issue, I don’t do annual oil changes in the work car because I do so much start-stop wear and tear and it’s 0w20.
Cherokee and Avalanche were annual changes and I never had an issue.

Guys that switch and have an issue... in my opinion the motor was already on its way out. Oil analysis will tell the truth. Blaming the oil is asinine
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Swapping to synthetic is the most efficient way I know to nuke an otherwise well cared for motor without doing anything out of the ordinary.
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Originally Posted by BamaJeeper View Post
What he said. I have a friend that switched to Mobil1 synthetic on two cars and they died because of the switch. I don’t want to discuss the failures because they were not mine. He is a man of great knowledge with engine lubrication since the failures. Lol.
bullshit.


high dollar synthetics are worth the money if you're beating on your shit, or running long oil change intervals.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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bullshit.


high dollar synthetics are worth the money if you're beating on your shit, or running long oil change intervals.
You need to get woke yo.

It happened to me. No synthetics are worth the money. Run conventional, change it at the right intervals. Synthetic is junk.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
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All I can say is, I have only ever run motul or Mobil 1(in the camry) and the toyota is at 210k ZERO problem and still almost perfect compression.

All 3 subies run Motul exclusively and are 318k, 290k, and 121k, zero issues (well issues caused by oil...ring lands/HGs whole other story LOL)

Both the jeep and the truck run brotilla (Rotilla T6) and again, zero issues.

Anyone who runs "conventional" oil is, to be honest, a fucking moron who should, for the good of humanity, wash their mouth out with a shotgun.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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My crushers have $100,000 in bearings in them. The manufacturer says to use Dino oil in them. Add that to your formula. I would buy what ever the mfg specs regardless of price. If Dino oil is what they spec it’s what I use.

One crusher needs some special grease for the spider bushing $550 for a 5 gallon pail. My ass is chapped after that purchase but the stuff works. Other producers have tried to get away with a cheaper substitute ended up with a 15,000 repair bill.

Moral of the story put what the mfg suggests. Remember anything a third party tells you will have some kind of spin just to get you to buy their shit.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
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One crusher needs some special grease for the spider bushing $550 for a 5 gallon pail.
what is the brand/spec on that? I have never heard of such a thing. I am curious as fuck now.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:37 AM   #11 (permalink)
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You need to get woke yo.

It happened to me. No synthetics are worth the money. Run conventional, change it at the right intervals. Synthetic is junk.
lol.

my BMW has 15-19K service intervals.

show me a conventional oil that will live half that long without sludging up your engine.

it's not 1980.


also, most "synthetics" are still cracked hydrocarbons and not a true synthetic base

they're just better refined and more tightly controlled.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I've switched my old gas trucks to Delo then Rotella 5/40 when Walmart quit carrying delo and the only thing that hasn't had issues since then is the motors. There's my Anecdote, and my wifes charger 3.6 has been on Mobil 1 from 13000 miles to 102,000 now with no motor issues. *

Keep the anecdotes rolling!
















































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Old 12-05-2019, 08:40 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I've switched my old gas trucks to Delo then Rotella 5/40 when Walmart quit carrying delo and the only thing that hasn't had issues since then is the motors. There's my Anecdote, and my wifes charger 3.6 has been on Mobil 1 from 13000 miles to 102,000 now with no motor issues. *

Keep the anecdotes rolling!













































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I switched my wife's turbo vlvo to synthetic when we got it at 83K miles.

it's fine, 4 years later, and the engine isn't all nasty like every other turbo whiteblock that followed volvos recommended oil change interval (7500 miles) and used the recommended 5w30 conventional.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:42 AM   #14 (permalink)
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also, most "synthetics" are still cracked hydrocarbons and not a true synthetic base

they're just better refined and more tightly controlled.
Depends on brand and semi vs full synthetic but pretty much this.

Synthetics have a more even molecule size, meaning the chains stay together better and give you more even performance at all heat levels.

The best stuff (read: expensive as fuck) are made from NG not liquid. They have some crazy process where they turn the NG into a solid...way beyond my understanding of how, but they get a cleaner molecular bond as I understand it.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:44 AM   #15 (permalink)
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i run wallmart oil in all my shit... too many cars to afford synthetic or even the blend....
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:50 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Depends on brand and semi vs full synthetic but pretty much this.

Synthetics have a more even molecule size, meaning the chains stay together better and give you more even performance at all heat levels.

The best stuff (read: expensive as fuck) are made from NG not liquid. They have some crazy process where they turn the NG into a solid...way beyond my understanding of how, but they get a cleaner molecular bond as I understand it.
depends.

GTL is a thing, but the highest of the high priced brands are ester based.

also, if you want hi performance oil on the cheap, FCP will "lifetime warranty" your used $10 a quart oil.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:54 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I switched my wife's turbo vlvo to synthetic when we got it at 83K miles.

it's fine, 4 years later, and the engine isn't all nasty like every other turbo whiteblock that followed volvos recommended oil change interval (7500 miles) and used the recommended 5w30 conventional.
I run several old Hydraulic lifter motors and have heard enough about conventional motor oils not having the zinc additives that they used to that I decided based on other stuff I heard and read that synthetic oils designated for light diesel trucks would be better and so far I like the results. Nothing I drive much has roller lifters and rockers, which I assume makes the difference in not needing zinc in the oil.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:57 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I run several old Hydraulic lifter motors and have heard enough about conventional motor oils not having the zinc additives that they used to that I decided based on other stuff I heard and read that synthetic oils designated for light diesel trucks would be better and so far I like the results. Nothing I drive much has roller lifters and rockers, which I assume makes the difference in not needing zinc in the oil.

I've run rotella in jeep 4 liters since forever.

but nothing we daily drive has a tappet cam.
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Old 12-05-2019, 09:00 AM   #19 (permalink)
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i run wallmart oil in all my shit... too many cars to afford synthetic or even the blend....
ditto, but I run walmart synthetic, it's only a couple bucks more.
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Old 12-05-2019, 09:06 AM   #20 (permalink)
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.... Run conventional, change it at the right intervals...
What the fuck is the right interval?

Because I think it is common knowledge the 3000 mile thing is a fraud perpetrated on the american people in an effort to sell more motor oil and has no basis in oil chemistry.
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Old 12-05-2019, 09:07 AM   #21 (permalink)
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lol.

my BMW has 15-19K service intervals.

show me a conventional oil that will live half that long without sludging up your engine.

it's not 1980.


also, most "synthetics" are still cracked hydrocarbons and not a true synthetic base

they're just better refined and more tightly controlled.
My VW Golf R runs 5W/40 synthetic as per VW's requirements. 10K oil change intervals. It's got 65K miles and I just had the compression checked as part of the 60K service. All 4 cyl read the same as a brand new motor.
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Old 12-05-2019, 09:10 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filthy McChevy View Post
I run several old Hydraulic lifter motors and have heard enough about conventional motor oils not having the zinc additives that they used to that I decided based on other stuff I heard and read that synthetic oils designated for light diesel trucks would be better and so far I like the results. Nothing I drive much has roller lifters and rockers, which I assume makes the difference in not needing zinc in the oil.
This, the gov took our ZDDP back in the '90s. Diesel still has some. You can put it in a clear jar and shine a light on it and see the phosphor glow. I'll add the zinc stuff if I have to use the low vis "car" oil.
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Old 12-05-2019, 09:14 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I run Mobile 1 in the Camaro (Manufacturer's recommended oil) and dyno juice in everything else.
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Old 12-05-2019, 09:21 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I’ve been driving for almost 40 years and with the exception of running synthetic oil for a couple of oil changes, ran conventional oil in everything.
Exactly zero oil related failures thus far.
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Old 12-05-2019, 09:22 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I run Mobil1 full synthetic in pretty much everything I like or daily. It goes on sale for 65% off at Canuck Tire so its barely over $5 per litre. Forget the high dollar stuff. The Saturn wagon I am bombing as a daily right now burns so much oil I plan to feed it used synthetic I've short changed out of engines I like after ~4k miles after I run out of cheap/free shitty conventional.

Friend put a high mileage 6L into one of his truck and put synthetic in it. It must have run conventional its whole life because it plugged 4 oil filters in the first oil change on synthetic. He would lose oil pressure, stop, spin on a new filter and top up and carry on. It only did that the first oil change and was good thereafter. So maybe there is some basis to the 'switching to synthetic kills engines' (if you let your engine run without oil pressure).
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