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Old 10-24-2019, 07:21 AM   #426 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMANbluesfreak View Post
Looks like good progress! Good idea making the torsion bar crossmember removable from the start. The 205 is heavy enough and then you added another 40lbs or so haha.
I always just lifted the factory case into place, I broke down and bought a little trans jack from HF because I donít think I could get that heavy SOB into place....how did you install yours? Lol
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:37 PM   #427 (permalink)
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Carefully with a floor jack and stacked wood to level it out. And ratchet straps. It was sketchy!

I bought a trans adapter for my floor jack after the first time struggling with it.
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Old 10-25-2019, 09:05 AM   #428 (permalink)
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I always just lifted the factory case into place, I broke down and bought a little trans jack from HF because I donít think I could get that heavy SOB into place....how did you install yours? Lol
well worth the $80 (with coupon )
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Old 11-12-2019, 09:01 AM   #429 (permalink)
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Update with no pics:

Got all 3 shifters mounted, coilovers, limit straps, and bumps all in. Gotta repair one bump. The threaded portion for the Delrin broke off from an impact.

I am currently cutting up the floor for the 205 doubler. How much room do you need in between the floor and top of the t case? Donít want to under do it and have movement impacting shifter use or hearing the case banging against the floor.
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Old 11-12-2019, 10:07 AM   #430 (permalink)
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When I did my exhaust the first time after the SAS (from the collector back), it was around 1/4" from a heat shield bolt/stud. When I got bound up, I could feel it barely touching/vibrating against the tip of the bolt/stud. I ended up redoing the exhaust for the doubler and made sure to stay at least 1/2"-3/4" away from frame/body.

I imagine the exhaust coming off the collector moves around the same amount as a transfer case. As such, I'd leave at least 1/2", maybe 3/4" clearance just to be safe. Don't want to have to do the work twice! Since I shaved the 'foot' off my 205, it's inches away from the body - so the exhaust is still the closest thing.
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Old 11-12-2019, 11:26 AM   #431 (permalink)
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I definitely have some more trimming to do. I am probably 1/4in from the body. I am curious if I can do some light trimming on top of the NP205 in addition to the body.
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:26 PM   #432 (permalink)
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Hard to say if that highlighted area has a thin wall without opening up the case. My guess is that after the hole, the case void actually juts out into that area to keep the wall thickness from being too much (bad for casting) so you'll have to be careful with the trimming.

If you do get into the case, you'll have to plate it shut. Not a big deal, but you may need to empty the case to do so properly. Hopefully someone else can chime in if that can be clearanced.

No room to adjust the floor for more clearance?
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:12 PM   #433 (permalink)
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2 post update: I got the hummer done and running. It was with a lot of BS but it went on it's maiden voyage.

Here it is all mounted up with coilovers, air bumps, etc.



Flexing out each side to get limit straps set.



Getting the engine bay back together.



Battery was a tight fit



Trying to get organized, I love these action packers!



I built a new intake for it, I don't have pics of that right now.

Then the drama started, I went out to test drive it and had HORRENDOUS noises. It was the rear output that was making the noise. After pulling the rear output atleast 3 times I finally found that the little needle bearings that are the pilot to the rear output were not in the case! Because I had the 205 laying around so long waiting for the doubler I had it sitting for so long I must have forgot to put those 15 little needle bearings in. What a pain....So I got that back together and made the noise MUCH better but still noise was present.

I then found out I had an old style ring gear and a new style planetary. Wonderful....This is why your best to get a donor case and not mix/match these parts. So out came the entire t case again to swap in a old style planetary. I still needed a skid plate and a lot of little odds and ends so I decided to not bring the hummer to so cal for thanksgiving even though I got it driving.

Went to hammers to spot, spectate and hangout with friends but definitely missed squeaky.

Made a DIY 20lb powertank for under $250 which was sweet!



Got home and got back to working on her and finished it up. I then had a 2 way plane ticket for this past weekend because the plan was to fly in for 2 hammer trips with my buddy before his wife had their first baby. I cancelled the boise to so cal flight and kept the so cal to boise flight home. I hopped in the hummer and drove 840 miles to hammers after putting a whopping 17 miles on her at home. Crazy or stupidity, you pick.

Started to hit some bad weather on the way through Wells, NV.



Eastern Nevada is DESOLATE. Man, breaking down in NV has got to be a scary nightmare. I took the 93 all the way down to Vegas.

Stopped in Vegas to say hi to my Toyota friends.



They are down for six shooter knuckles on one and a 3 link on the other.

Hit another milestone



Got to hammers and just messed around in the desert for 30 minutes or so testing the new suspension. It is leaps and bounds BETTER! Much less body roll, the true 6in of uptravel is very welcomed in the desert and overall very happy with initial impressions.

Went to sleep to tackle Sledgehammer in the morning.

Sledge is a tough trail for me, It seems to be that one trail that just fucks me everytime. I never got the plaque, when I almost had it I broke a shaft climbing it, or winch but this time, I got it! No rock stacking just a few attempts and got it!

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Old 12-16-2019, 09:13 PM   #434 (permalink)
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2 post update....#1 is above.
After the plaque that big boulder moved under my tire and caused this



The tight left turn I should have gotten my first try, I had the right line and literally just stopped and backed up, pure stupidity on my part. This damn trail is my nemesis but I am glad I am finally up the plaque unassisted.

Then we went up "3rd canyon of sledge" it was very steep and loose but fun!



I dented my tie rod bad and my ram...damn it!

After that we went exploring and down a sand hill to bloody mary and that's when things got bad. First off the damn doubler started popping out of gear, didn't matter if it was high or low range. Then I realized my computer was going hay wire since it wouldn't recognize I was in low range.



I still had the encoder motor plugged in but it wouldnt go into low range. The encoder motor was attached to the back of the factory case. I would let it shift even though nothing is attached to it and go into low. I think the encoder motor coincidentally died after pulling my old case. So with no real way to be shifting gears I dealt with the computer going haywire and literally had to winch HUNDREDS of feet out of this sand hill. It took hours and it sucked really bad. After that we got back to camp and the weather sucked, feeling pist off and not wanting to deal with weather we left to head to my buddy's house about 90 miles away. On the way to his house the damn doubler kept popping out of low. eventually we just towed it to his place. My plan was to leave it there anyway and fly home and come back in January for another run and then KOH, then drive it back. Now I am going to pull the case the weekend I go back.

I spoke with Behemoth and he thinks it's one or two things, the snap ring for the front input let loose and is allowing it to walk in the housing or we found out I have the narrower width bearing when I need the wide double row bearing which is 4mm thicker and allowing the case to walk around. THIS IS WHY I SHOULD HAVE GOTTEN A DONOR CASE instead of mixing and matching but I got a super good free deal which was cool and appealing but now I know. The reason we don't think its the shifter is because when you hold the lever with your hand and let it run in neutral you feel like the shifter hub is walking back and forth. I was told the input snap rings stretch and since I had to swap the planetary's I had that in and out a couple times. So when I fly to my buddy's in January I will bring the right bearing and a new snap ring. I will ship him a new DIY Tie rod to weld up and a new ram so she's ready for KOH. I will wire in a switch to ground out the 4wd signal to the PCM so this computer stops freaking out. Probably easier then doing a new VSS in the back of the trans or something.

After those struggles I felt defeated and angry. I felt like my rig is too big, heavy and dumb for the hammers and I should build a late 80's square body S10 since they are little and light but after a good night sleep I am ready to keep pushing the big rig! The last time I felt that way was when I was stock and broke a tie rod and questioned should I sell the H3 and buy a jeep. Luckily both times a good night sleep will snap me out of those thoughts. they are growing pains from a shakedown run that you deal with when building a rig not many others build.

The key takeaways were driving 840 miles successfully, getting the plaque on sledge and a new suspension that feels MUCH better.
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Old 12-17-2019, 06:59 AM   #435 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06 H3 View Post
Because I had the 205 laying around so long waiting for the doubler I had it sitting for so long I must have forgot to put those 15 little needle bearings in. What a pain....So I got that back together and made the noise MUCH better but still noise was present.
Glad you figured that out before making the trip to Cali. That could have been catastrophic.

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I then found out I had an old style ring gear and a new style planetary. Wonderful....This is why your best to get a donor case and not mix/match these parts.
Oooof that's scary haha. Glad you figured that out, too.

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Crazy or stupidity, you pick.
Why not both?

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I still had the encoder motor plugged in but it wouldnt go into low range. The encoder motor was attached to the back of the factory case. I would let it shift even though nothing is attached to it and go into low. I think the encoder motor coincidentally died after pulling my old case. So with no real way to be shifting gears I dealt with the computer going haywire and literally had to winch HUNDREDS of feet out of this sand hill. It took hours and it sucked really bad. After that we got back to camp and the weather sucked, feeling pist off and not wanting to deal with weather we left to head to my buddy's house about 90 miles away. On the way to his house the damn doubler kept popping out of low. eventually we just towed it to his place. My plan was to leave it there anyway and fly home and come back in January for another run and then KOH, then drive it back. Now I am going to pull the case the weekend I go back.

I spoke with Behemoth and he thinks it's one or two things, the snap ring for the front input let loose and is allowing it to walk in the housing or we found out I have the narrower width bearing when I need the wide double row bearing which is 4mm thicker and allowing the case to walk around. THIS IS WHY I SHOULD HAVE GOTTEN A DONOR CASE instead of mixing and matching but I got a super good free deal which was cool and appealing but now I know. The reason we don't think its the shifter is because when you hold the lever with your hand and let it run in neutral you feel like the shifter hub is walking back and forth. I was told the input snap rings stretch and since I had to swap the planetary's I had that in and out a couple times. So when I fly to my buddy's in January I will bring the right bearing and a new snap ring. I will ship him a new DIY Tie rod to weld up and a new ram so she's ready for KOH.
In the interest of having ALL the possible parts you need, perhaps it'd be wise to ship him an entire NP241 front case half? That way you know it's all matched and your risk minimized. Just a thought.

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I will wire in a switch to ground out the 4wd signal to the PCM so this computer stops freaking out. Probably easier then doing a new VSS in the back of the trans or something.
Where is your current VSS? In the NP205 output?

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After those struggles I felt defeated and angry. I felt like my rig is too big, heavy and dumb for the hammers and I should build a late 80's square body S10 since they are little and light but after a good night sleep I am ready to keep pushing the big rig! The last time I felt that way was when I was stock and broke a tie rod and questioned should I sell the H3 and buy a jeep. Luckily both times a good night sleep will snap me out of those thoughts. they are growing pains from a shakedown run that you deal with when building a rig not many others build.

The key takeaways were driving 840 miles successfully, getting the plaque on sledge and a new suspension that feels MUCH better.
Yeah it's always tough when a fresh build has issues, but I think if you keep after the gremlins, you'll have a super stout drivetrain again and not have to worry. The silver lining is that the suspension seemed to work flawlessly and you should be proud about that.
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Old 12-17-2019, 08:26 AM   #436 (permalink)
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Glad you figured that out before making the trip to Cali. That could have been catastrophic.

I was told most people don't even realize those little 15 needles in there since they are covered by a washer

Oooof that's scary haha. Glad you figured that out, too.

That was another issue figured out

Why not both?

LOL I would agree both!

In the interest of having ALL the possible parts you need, perhaps it'd be wise to ship him an entire NP241 front case half? That way you know it's all matched and your risk minimized. Just a thought.

That isn't a bad idea.

Where is your current VSS? In the NP205 output?

Yep its in the rear output of the 205

Yeah it's always tough when a fresh build has issues, but I think if you keep after the gremlins, you'll have a super stout drivetrain again and not have to worry. The silver lining is that the suspension seemed to work flawlessly and you should be proud about that.
I am ready to go back to hammers and kick ass lol
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Old 01-17-2020, 05:50 PM   #437 (permalink)
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Awesome build!
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Old 01-27-2020, 12:51 PM   #438 (permalink)
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Update: I left my rig down south for about a month as I went to NY for Christmas and was traveling for work. I went down last weekend, pulled the case and found out I have a bad planetary. I did notice when I put it in but didn't think it was an issue, it had some play in the case and got worse with the wrong bearing in there. Got it all swapped out and I am hoping and praying it's fixed! I will be heading down for KOH and have 130 mile drive, I guess I will find out then I also swapped out my ram assist cylinder because it was bent and did yet another new tie rod since that's like the 7th one I have bent. I had issues with the aluminum one I did but eventually I will go back to that route.

My big issue: I installed a doubler transfer case. 1:1, 1.96:1, 2.72:1, 5.33:1. Its actually not an issue, itís a badass setup that will greatly improve capability! It does causes issues, but I know they can be overcome.

My VSS is in a similar position to factory, itís in the tail housing of the transfer case. Most guys that have done LS swaps in their jeeps have this issue too so to remedy it they put the VSS in the tailhousing of the trans so it always reads 1:1. I donít want to do that, gotta pull the trans apart, drill and tap the tailhousing, etc. It isnít a big deal if your doing it during the swap but to pull it all back out is a pain. The issue occurs that the VSS is seeing reduction in the tailhousing because the tcase is in low but the computer thinks itís in 4 high. It freaks the **** out and cuts power, shifts weird, almost like a limp mode.

My original plan was to just bolt the encoder motor off the frame rail, push the 4low button so the computer knows itís in 4low and we move on. Well I got too excited and drove it around and broke my encoder motor because I didnít mount it. I kind of forgot that I left it on a skid plate and it bounced around. Instead of buying a new encoder motor to play dumb I want to actually fix it with a real solution.

So I hit the interwebs and found there is a 4low signal (Iíll post the wiring diagram) how it works is the encoder motor has wiring that goes to the TCCM (transfer case control module) behind the glove box. It then has an output that goes to the pcm that says ďhey pcm! Iím in 4 lowĒ then an output/input class 2 data wire that goes to the DIC, from what I understand it illuminates the lights and shows your 4 low button lighting up, your traction control off and stabilitrac off on the DIC and the traction light on the dash.

So to trigger the pcm 4 low signal it needs to be grounded out, so I bought a 2 prong switch, tapped into the wire between the TCCM and PCM and ground it out.

So I flip the switch and nothing on the dash lights up. I figured that may be the case. Since I tapped into the 4low switch in front of the tccm so it canít trigger the DIC so my question is, does the pcm see a 4 low signal and cut out stabilitrac and traction control too but doesnít illuminate it because the ground is after the TCCM? Or does it tell the pcm ďuse your 4 low shift tablesĒ but leave traction control and stabilitrac engaged? I hope it disables it but doesnít illuminate because I donít want that crap on when in low range and the factory shuts it off in low range anyways.

With all that said, I would like to get the lights to illuminate when itís all said and done so it looks factory but for next week I just need it to work whether the lights show up or not. I will be doing 3 days of backdoor KOH recovery. Rolling rigs over, and extracting broken ones out after the race. Then multiple days of wheeling.

On another unrelated note, I did install a RADesigns mini rail shifter and TCC lockup. Since I have so many options hearing wise now I want to be able to start in any gear. I tapped into the TCM wiring with a on/on 6 prong switch. It allows factory control like a stock H3 with the toggle down and in the up position it gives me full manual control. If I want to start in 4th gear, I can start in 4th, itís like a full manual valve body but still retains OE functions! Then for TCC lock up I have a on/off/on 3 prong switch. Toggle down is factory torque converter lock up, toggle in the middle is TC lock up is off, toggle up is TC lock up when I want it to. The more control I have when wheeling the better. Then flip both the switches to factory and it will allow any one to drive it like a normal vehicle.

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Old 01-27-2020, 02:06 PM   #439 (permalink)
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Neat! Sounds like your system is more complicated than the ones they put in the trucks of similar years. I like the ability to start in any gear you select. When in drive, mine sometimes decides it wants to start in 2nd until I give it a little throttle and in double low, this is quite the lurch haha.
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Old 01-27-2020, 03:13 PM   #440 (permalink)
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These damn Hummers are complicated at times what did you do for yours?
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Old 01-27-2020, 03:36 PM   #441 (permalink)
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Unplug the TCCM and ground a pin when in 4lo (manually with a switch).
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Old 01-27-2020, 04:15 PM   #442 (permalink)
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Unplug the TCCM and ground a pin when in 4lo (manually with a switch).
Did u pin it between the TCCM and the PCM or before the TCCM?

When you ground it out does the 4lo dash light come in (if you have one?)
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Old 01-27-2020, 04:20 PM   #443 (permalink)
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No, and it didn't when in 4lo either when it was IFS. The light on the 4wd selector buttons is what lit up for the trucks.
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Old 02-05-2020, 12:11 PM   #444 (permalink)
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Iím pretty sure I just caught a clip of your hummer in the EMC live feed. Hopefully KOH is treating you right!


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Old 02-05-2020, 12:12 PM   #445 (permalink)
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Iím pretty sure I just caught a clip of your hummer in the EMC live feed. Hopefully KOH is treating you right!


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Yep! He's been doing recovery all week!
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Old 02-05-2020, 03:16 PM   #446 (permalink)
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Out there killing it!
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"Today, I broke my own personal record for most consecutive days lived."


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Old 02-11-2020, 02:45 PM   #447 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wvracer821 View Post
Out there killing it!
Thanks! I will have a full KOH2020 Recap up soon.
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Old 02-12-2020, 06:18 AM   #448 (permalink)
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Looks like from IG that you had a very good (and busy!) time. Can't wait to see even more detail.
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Old 02-12-2020, 06:40 PM   #449 (permalink)
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Day 0: I call it day zero because I got to the lakebed Satuday night around 6:30pm. I flew in late Friday night, stayed at my fiancť's parents house, they dropped me off at my buddy's place Saturday morning to finish some stuff I didn't get finished the weekend before, packed up and drove 110 miles to the lakebed. I flew in the weekend before to do some work on the hummer. It was a bad idea to install coilovers and a doubler t case, put 11 test miles on it and use my shakedown as a run 850 miles from home late December. The plan was to leave it there but not work on it! So I had some shakedown run issues I had to fix. Saturday night was the volunteer meeting. It was uneventful. The Hummer was FULL!



Day 1: Sunday morning, backdoor recovery for the UTV race.

It was a busy day! We didn't keep track but we were told we dealt with 70 rollovers! We had the Hummer at the bottom and my buddy's first gen Toyota pick up at the top.

The drag and then flip over move...



We dealt with armchair spectators saying you suck! I have done a ton of recoveries and its different when racing. Getting cars out of the way so others can pass, keeping yourself out of the way, pulling in a way to keep the rope away from the driver in case of failure and the skinned roof's limit your access points. Anyways we got the job done.



Day 2: We went to hammertown to check it out since there were no races that day. Saw dirthead Dave's old Hilux.



Then ran spooners canyon and outer limits.





Everything was fine on Spooner's but about 40% up Outer Limits my buddy broke what we thought was a front shaft. We pull it and see no damage but change it anyways. While changing it a UTV is driving down outer limits and almost rolled into his truck knocking off the jack.

We got it swapped out and 100 ft later takes out a rear R&P. We also learn the front locker is broken, not the shaft. So with 1 wheel drive it's time to turn around and get back to camp. As we are turning him around an older guy is walking down the trail saying they need help. He is in a JK and his buddy is in an LJ and accidentally got lost and came down outer limits. His buddy has a bad heart and he's inexperienced and they need help. So we help and get them off the trail. They did almost roll once or twice. While we get them off the trail my buddy is winching and we learn the previous owner didn't fully weld the front bumper on and used super thin tubing! So naturally it ripped off the frame....we eventually get off the trail and I tow him back to camp around 11:30pm.
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Old 02-12-2020, 06:55 PM   #450 (permalink)
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Tuesday Day 3: We go into full repair mode, we need his rig on backdoor by tomorrow at 8AM. We need a front locker, bumper fixed and rear R&P.

We hit the road to Corona and bought all the parts at Yotamasters. They were super cool and helpful. We stop at Home Depot to get stuff for a makeshift tent in case the wind is bad and we stopped at carquest since my PS pump started to feel weak.



We got back at 6pm due to traffic and not leaving until 10 or so.

So we get pizza delivered to the lakebed at our campsite by 5 dollar pizza which was super cool and got to work by 7pm.

Started with bumper repairs, we FULLY welded everything since the previous owner didn't and we added tube gussets to strengthen it a good amount.



My premier power welder came in handy this trip! (click the image for the video)



We got that fixed and then tore apart the rear end. Luckily our other buddy was on his way out and brought us all the diff tools we needed.



Nothing like doing a legit gear install in the desert on a lifetime plastic table at 3:30AM!

Doing out best with what we have and the time we have.



Here's me freezing my ass off!



We got done by 4:45AM and he had a good safe bumper and a rear end back together. The locker will get done another time... Time for bed and to be ready rolling out to backdoor for recovery around 7:15AM

I also forgot to mention I installed some lap belts on the lakebed! I wanted to for years. I was sick and tired of the factory belts locking up on me on the trail. I mounted them off the factory seat bolt holes. I will use them off road and the factory belts on road.



Day 4: was uneventful, we had 4 rollover recoveries in the EMC race and I had to go recover a broken car at the top of Resolution.



We wanted to pull him a certain way, he didn't want us to. He insisted and sure enough my buddy broke a front D60 stub shaft pulling him backwards uphill in reverse. It was nice of him to NOT offer to replace it! Especially since we were out there doing it for free.....
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