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Old 03-15-2016, 11:32 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Awesome, thanks!

Do you know how long all your links are? Did you put your links in a calculator before building them or just wing it? It sounds like it does pretty well on the road by how many miles you've put on it.
I didn't use the link calculator but ran all my numbers from link separation to length, etc. through a fabricator who builds suspensions for all sorts of stuff. He gave me the ok so I proceeded. I knew the general vincinity of what I should have and he confirmed it or checked what I could adjust/modify.

My lowers are in 32-35in range upper is 28-32in range if I remember correctly. I'll have to measure them again. all H3 solid axle swaps I've seen use very short links due to the crossmember getting in the way. I made a custom one to get longer links.

As for ride quality people are amazed at how nice it rides. Daily drove it up until 2 months ago and the only reason I stopped was I got a company car with free gas, otherwise I would still be dailying it.
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Old 03-26-2016, 06:02 AM   #177 (permalink)
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Old 04-03-2016, 07:23 PM   #178 (permalink)
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whats up george!
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Old 04-03-2016, 07:28 PM   #179 (permalink)
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This is copied and pasted from the hummer forum so it will sound much more basic to you guys but wanted to explain how converting lug patterns are to Hummer guys since most dont know.

to give more detail, part #s, etc.

Front: Going to an 8 lug front end while retaining the D44 is easy. Swapping from 5 to 6 or to even 8 lug is no biggie. Its done via hubs and spindles...
So after going for 8 lug hubs I got D44 big bearing spindles as well. These are easy to do and parts can be grabbed quickly in a store. Example for a vehicle is a 1978 Chevy K20 4WD for bearings/seals.

The D44 brakes from the 70s suck in comparision to the dual piston brakes H3s come with. Retaining them was something I did with THORparts brackets when I was 6 lug. Going to 8 lug I had to find a rotor that would be similar is diameter to an H3 rotor, since the 8 lug hubs push out the width a tad I needing something with about an inch of deeper hat depth. 2002 Chevy 2500 rear rotors fit the bill. I then had to turn down the OD of the hubs, which could be done by CJ when he puts on the tone rings. Modifying the caliper brackets out and over a tad then welding them back together. After that the front is done! Studs I used were from a 2008 Chevy 2500 front.

REAR
This all applies to Eaton Housings, 14 bolts, and probably similar to older D60s, D70s.
The typical 14 bolt disc kit runs the rotor BEHIND the hub, with that I cant fit the sensor in between the hub and rotor. So I spoke to lugnut4x4.com he told me to use 2002 chevy rear rotors like the front and they will slip over. I then used the typical 14 bolt disc brake calipers (I ordered mine with ebrake levers but you dont have to.) now to get the rotors to fit over the hub you need to turn the OD down like I did on the front. You can use a machine shop or you can mount the hub and turn the hub in 4lo and use a grinder, its a DIY lathe basically. The sensors need to be mounted .020 to .026in away from the tone ring that was pressed on the hub. I used a deck of cards and measured until I had a stack (2 or 3) that measured to .020-.026. welded on the mounts. Now the biggest question here is will the sensor read? The OEM sensor was mounted on the axle shaft and a much smaller OD. H3s use 55 tooth rings but the OEM ring had the teeth so close together because it was only roughly 2in OD while my new one was 5in OD. Either way I luckily found out the computer doesnt care! As long as it has 55 teeth its happy. one other note I have it that the rear sensors are a tad different for mounting so I used front sensor mounts but had to redrill the hole. As for studs I am running Dorman 610-333, these metric studs match the front.
Wheel bearings/seals for the Eaton I used a 1971 Chevy C30.

Other then that its done! I used stainless brake lines from lugnut4x4 as well, driveshaft needs to be lengthened a tad. The grizzly locker is damn near a spool with 32s right now but 37s will have enough force to loosen it up a bit on road.







In the end a modern day computer system doesnt even know an axle from 1955 is under the truck
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Old 04-26-2016, 12:40 PM   #180 (permalink)
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I'm curious what the 'typical 14 bolt disc brake calipers' are, if they have a parking brake integrated into them. You mean they're the ones from the 2002 GM, or is there a caliper that you Hummer guys are typically using when you swap in a 14 bolt?


(Not a Hummer guy, just curious about disk brakes with slip on rotors and parking brakes, because the typical 78 GM front stuff is kinda hack)
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Old 04-26-2016, 04:06 PM   #181 (permalink)
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I'm curious what the 'typical 14 bolt disc brake calipers' are, if they have a parking brake integrated into them. You mean they're the ones from the 2002 GM, or is there a caliper that you Hummer guys are typically using when you swap in a 14 bolt?


(Not a Hummer guy, just curious about disk brakes with slip on rotors and parking brakes, because the typical 78 GM front stuff is kinda hack)
The calipers are from Lugnut4x4. They are the el dorado calipers with e brake levers on them. I haven't even hooked up the e brake cables yet since I only have 100 road miles on the setup and 2 local wheeling trips.

I am currently putting a 14B from a 2003 Suburban 2500 (any 2500 truck will work from 02-06) and they have factory discs and parking brakes that work fantastic.

I am running a slip on rotor from the new school 14 bolts but it required grinding down the hub OD so it can slip over. reason I did that was for ABS mounting clearance. So far the rear brakes work ok. I cant say they are worse then stock but I cant say they are better. It brakes the same as before but H3s stop great to begin with so I am not sure how much better I can get lol

If you can I would get the newer 14 bolt since you get modern big brakes and a modern Parking brake lever. I went the eaton HO72 route since I like weird oddball axles and it weighs less, has more ground clearance and a removable 3rd.
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Old 04-26-2016, 05:12 PM   #182 (permalink)
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The calipers are from Lugnut4x4. They are the el dorado calipers with e brake levers on them. I haven't even hooked up the e brake cables yet since I only have 100 road miles on the setup and 2 local wheeling trips.

I am currently putting a 14B from a 2003 Suburban 2500 (any 2500 truck will work from 02-06) and they have factory discs and parking brakes that work fantastic.

I am running a slip on rotor from the new school 14 bolts but it required grinding down the hub OD so it can slip over. reason I did that was for ABS mounting clearance. So far the rear brakes work ok. I cant say they are worse then stock but I cant say they are better. It brakes the same as before but H3s stop great to begin with so I am not sure how much better I can get lol

If you can I would get the newer 14 bolt since you get modern big brakes and a modern Parking brake lever. I went the eaton HO72 route since I like weird oddball axles and it weighs less, has more ground clearance and a removable 3rd.
My 14 Bolt is already shaved, and the newer ones are pricey in this part of the world. Currently running the 78 GMC front stuff on it, but I'd like to go slip on at it will space my tires out a hair more, and I'd like the ebrake so when I get pulled over I don't automagically fail a roadside inspection.

Lugnut doesn't have a bad price for the caddy calipers, but they're still rather expensive. I can get loaded 02-06 GM ones for about $100/each. I might have to investigate them some more.

I saw your post in the Eaton thread, but figured I'd not clutter it up, instead I'm cluttering up your build. I actually went looking for an Eaton to run initially, but wasn't able to locate one that was worth touching, IMHO it is a superior axle and it saddens me that it wasn't used for longer nor has the aftermarket support.
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Old 04-27-2016, 09:47 AM   #183 (permalink)
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My 14 Bolt is already shaved, and the newer ones are pricey in this part of the world. Currently running the 78 GMC front stuff on it, but I'd like to go slip on at it will space my tires out a hair more, and I'd like the ebrake so when I get pulled over I don't automagically fail a roadside inspection.

Lugnut doesn't have a bad price for the caddy calipers, but they're still rather expensive. I can get loaded 02-06 GM ones for about $100/each. I might have to investigate them some more.

I saw your post in the Eaton thread, but figured I'd not clutter it up, instead I'm cluttering up your build. I actually went looking for an Eaton to run initially, but wasn't able to locate one that was worth touching, IMHO it is a superior axle and it saddens me that it wasn't used for longer nor has the aftermarket support.
If you put your truck in 4lo take everything off and run the truck in the air you have a diy lathe. take an angle grinder you can take the od down and slip on a rotor as for loaded calipers you can make brackets for it but an e brake for the later models are a drum. Maybe take a plloaded back plate and see if it fits
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Old 06-12-2016, 12:56 PM   #184 (permalink)
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An update...I ended up with Detroit locker issues in my HO72. The Detroit 14 bolt mod wasn't working and acting like a spool. Sure enough there was not room for the slightly bigger 14 bolt Detroit. I was able to get a factory HO72 Detroit and now it works perfect! Don't feel it on road and it's locked off road. I've put about 1000 miles on the axle now.

I also added ram assist and a rebuilt, tapped box.



I also ordered RCVs they are beautiful!!!





I also went to hammers...probably the last time till cools off in the October time frame...





Other then that I'm just trying to get as many on and off road miles as possible work out bugs and such for our first dusy ershim trip in August! I'm almost done with my brothers Jk we put an 05 super duty 60 and 2002 14 bolt under it and help my 2 buddy's with getting their rigs ready for the trip
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:18 AM   #185 (permalink)
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It turned out great, that very last picture, it is worth the effort...
That looks like the "hand me a cold one" pic... I just started my H3 this summer, a complete rebuild of everything after driving it for 2 years, I just started gutting it. I'll be asking questions if you don't mind.
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Old 08-25-2016, 11:02 PM   #186 (permalink)
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It turned out great, that very last picture, it is worth the effort...
That looks like the "hand me a cold one" pic... I just started my H3 this summer, a complete rebuild of everything after driving it for 2 years, I just started gutting it. I'll be asking questions if you don't mind.
Thank you! I appreciate it. ask away on the questions...

Update: just got back from the dusy a few weeks ago, H3 did great and didn't break! Yay lol put 40s on as well with H2 rims









Since I had the roof rack I held all the gas cans for 6 rigs.
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Old 08-29-2016, 11:34 AM   #187 (permalink)
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how do you like the 40's?
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Old 08-30-2016, 08:58 AM   #188 (permalink)
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how do you like the 40's?
The amount of clearance is amazing and I wasn't sure how the pro comps would hook up but they do very well!

Only thing I didn't like was since I am running H2 rims I am narrower then before so I felt tippy going to a bigger tire and a narrower track width but I am going to add some spacers. I like the H2 wheels on an H3 otherwise I would have just gotten rims with less offset
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Old 08-30-2016, 09:35 AM   #189 (permalink)
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Hey nice H3, I saw you/the truck on Saturday. Driving on Plum Cyn. Look great!
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Old 08-30-2016, 05:16 PM   #190 (permalink)
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Hey nice H3, I saw you/the truck on Saturday. Driving on Plum Cyn. Look great!
Thank you! We were heading either to or home from rowher.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:57 PM   #191 (permalink)
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Do you have any issues with tire to lower link clearance after stepping up to the 40s?
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Old 10-10-2016, 09:47 PM   #192 (permalink)
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after I put on the 40s and H2 wheels I did. The H2 wheels have a ton of backspacing so it would rub. A) I wanted to go wider and B) I wanted to avoid the rubbing so I threw on spacers. Now it's all good. Another option is get wheels with the right backspacing (I could have but wanted factory H2 wheels on an H3 ) or get these

High Clearance Lower Links, DOM Tube, 2" X .25" Wall, 1.5" Tube ID - RuffStuff Specialties

I would have but they were not available at the time.

While I'm posting I'll throw in another update! I revalved the shocks forvthe second time now last week and WOW! Another great improvement. This helped body roll a ton and I feel this will be my final revalve. Now that it's been done for a while and all the necessities are done with the SAS I am fine tuning it and the little things add up to make a difference!
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:57 AM   #193 (permalink)
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What spacers did you decide to go with
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:08 AM   #194 (permalink)
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What spacers did you decide to go with
2in front 3.5in back. I'm really not concerned about the spacers out back. Toyota guys run 3in on semi float axles all day. My 3.5 is hub centric so it's a tight fit over the hub and it barely hangs over the hub. Honestly I think they are probably safer then my 1.75in spacer I had on my c clip 10 bolt and I ran those for 50+k miles with no issues.
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:45 AM   #195 (permalink)
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Another update, I swapped my new 40x13.5R17 Pro Comp Xtreme MT2's over to the new size Cooper has to offer. 40x13.5R17 Cooper STT Pro's!

I also built a new drag link. For years I had a straight drag link that sat on the farthest hole from the ball joint and it had slow less then ideal response in steering. I put a bend in it to clear the track bar bracket so I can move it to the closest hole. WOW! better turning radius and MUCH more responsive.

The past few weeks have made the Hummer so much more road worthy then it already was. The shock revalve and this drag link made such a difference! I just needed time to do all this but overall I am so happy that I am fine tuning it to perfection.

Here are some shots of the new 40s







The new drag link!



Now that it has a bend I can also adjust it to sit lower and gain some uptravel.

Lastly, next weekend it's time to go to hammers!!! Can't wait to see what I break

Oh wait, one more thing. In a few weeks I'm going to pick up a D70 for free. It'scut up but so far I've had no issues with the HP44 and RCVs on 40s but I've broken 4 IFS ring and pinions 2 Chevy low pinion R&P, I've had luck with the ford 44 HP but it's time to go big. No more front R&P failures. I will first see if the shear size of it can fit without lifting it more if it does, I would like to build it up and retain the factory H3 brakes like I did on the D44s they stop 40s with little effort.
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:52 AM   #196 (permalink)
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What brand of spacers?

Any reason to switch from the procomps to the coopers?
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:09 PM   #197 (permalink)
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What brand of spacers?

Any reason to switch from the procomps to the coopers?
I work for Cooper tire so I wanted to see how they do.

Yes. The brand is Motorsport tech, quality billet aluminum done to your needs such as hub bores, size, etc.
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:12 PM   #198 (permalink)
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So not a lack of performance from the procomps?
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:36 PM   #199 (permalink)
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So not a lack of performance from the procomps?
No sir, I honestly thought they kicked ass in the rocks! I suspect the Coopers will do about the same on the rocks but have better snow/ice traction. I know, I know...I'm in so cal but I do try to go to the mtns to snow wheel
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:40 PM   #200 (permalink)
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Edit: This is copied and pasted from the Hummer forum, I know is dumbed down a bit talking about backdoor and how steep it is, etc. don't flame

An update: Hammers season is here!!! Our first trip of the season went amazing! We ran Sunbonnet and chocolate thunder. We left around 10pm on Friday night and got in around 1am, setup camp near chocolate thunder and got some sleep.

Next morning we got up and the weather started off cool but got a tad warm, wasn't terrible but it was warm.

Here's camp...my buddy's co worker and his dad used tents and we used hammocks.



We had breakfast, ditched the doors and off we went to sunbonnet! It's a ways out there but it was worth it. Lots of varying terrain and pretty constant fun with varying lines.









Here was a fun ledge, as you can see it's tall!





After finishing Sunbonnet we went to camp and that's where I found out I had a small pinhole leak in my radiator. Let it cool off and took off to backdoor so show my buddy's co worker who's never been to hammers.

Here's my buddy, about 5'10" yes it's tall!!!



After that we took off to Orielly about 20 miles away grabbed some radiator stop leak. Filled it up and sure enough the leak stopped! We had dinner then hit chocolate thunder at night. The high right line half way up has my number. My wheelbase and width is literally the perfect disaster to dump me into a hole every damn time. Just hooked up the winch to get me 2 feet past that spot then I go the rest of the way up fine...

At the exit the finally ledge is STEEP! It's never been this steep but now it's so rutted out. My buddy and his dad in their TJ's had to keep a winch on em because they were basically lifting front tires going up. My wheelbase helped and walked it! It was a blast and the perfect way to end the trip. I gave the Ford HP44 hell and it held up on 40s
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