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Old 12-12-2013, 12:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Transfer case options for those running >36" tires

I figured it was time to rehash the transfer case options as a lot has changed in just the last 2 years. I know everyone has different engines and transmissions

D20 stock case, cast iron and pretty strong. 2:1 ratio, or Advance Adapters 3:15 kit. $940 Price as of 12/2013 Link to AA
32 spline output from AA $500

total cost. Dana20 $100 + $940 + $500 = $1540



Dana 300 either texas or round for those with a 727 and Jeep tail housing.
2:62 ratio Advance Adapter 4:1 kit $700 Price as of 12/2013 Link to AA
32 spline output from AA $500

total cost Dana300 $300 + $700 + $500 = $1500

Atlas transfer case 2 speed upto 5:1 ratio with 32 spline outputs $2700 or $2900 with 300M output shaft.



Atlas transfer case 4 speed upto 11:1 ratio with 32 spline outputs $3400 or $3600 with 300M output shaft.



Hero transfer case 2 speed with 32 spline outputs, 1.5" wide gears ( like the JB conversion Low Max Np205) 1.75 output shaft diameter. $$$$ price not released yet " expected " price range $4000



JB Conversion LowMax NP205 3:1 ratio link $2800, this is a 32 spline input and some would require a range box in front to make this work. This box will not work with the new integrated range boxes from NWF or ORD.




The next items are really the only options left for a strong T/C

That would be using an NP205 with a range box in front.

I post those next
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you are looking at 4 speeds why not throw the magnum box to a 205 in there? I love my Klune/205 combo
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes!! that is next, but my boss expect some work during work hours

Both NWF and ORD offer an integrated range box for the NP205.

Then there is the box4rocks or even making one out of NP241 with some aluminum plate.

I'm really looking at the Magnum integrated range box, with the NWF NP205 output shaft for the 205. Pic's to follow.
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The next items are really the only options left for a strong T/C

That would be using an NP205 with a range box in front.
I love my 241/205 set up. (D&D Machine Box for Rocks).

He now sells billet cases for 241 guts (basically an $800 version of a Klune/Black Box).

The 2:1, 2.72:1, & 5.44 options are Great.

Pros: Awesome gearing. Super Strong 2nd case.

Cons: Long & Heavy. Round/Chevy NP205s are hard to find for cheap.

Having the 2.72 reduction box up front, makes it so the 3:1 NP205 option isn't really worht the $$$ (if they ever come back with them).

The only thing I think could be better was to put a 3.8:1 Atlas behind the reduction box… (If I could ever find one for under $1800. (Maybe once that TWF case comes out & wins over the racers the market will get flooded with Atlas cases for sale).
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yes!! that is next, but my boss expect some work during work hours

Both NWF and ORD offer an integrated range box for the NP205.

Then there is the box4rocks or even making one out of NP241 with some aluminum plate.

I'm really looking at the Magnum integrated range box, with the NWF NP205 output shaft for the 205. Pic's to follow.
Craig,
Just pick this up:
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/engin...chine-new.html

And then find a Chevy NP205….

You can have it up & running for under $1k.
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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ORD magnum box $1990 Length 6.25".
32 spline front shaft $135, reseal kit $35. Full Rebuild kit with seals and bearings $190 twin stick shift rails $130 twin sticks $185? Bore case $125


total cost NP205 $150 + $1990 + $135 + $190 + $130 + $125 ( left out the twin sticks ) $2590




With there fat shaft, as the shaft between the cases is the weakest link.



works with the figure 8 NP205, just need the input bearing to be large bore, or have your box bore the extra 10mm





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Old 12-12-2013, 01:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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North West Fab has created Titan Series BlackBox-i for the NP205 at 5.33" The box is similar to the ORD magnum and works with the figure 8 boxes.
They offer a larger output shaft for the 205 too. .

The output shaft is patterned after the Ford NP271/3 transfer case. High angle driveline is make 2 flanges for it. that is a 32 spline to the left.

Shaft $495 Titan $1899
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Box4rocks with a 6 bolt round pattern. This can be used with a fig 8 NP205 but requires the NWF adapter plate.
Length 7 7/8"

$699

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/motor...box4rocks.html



NWF adapter
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't forget Behemoth

Works with figure 8, no adapter necessary (only uses 5 bolts).


STRONG BOX UNDERDRIVE KITS

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/motor...e-doubler.html
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Craig,
Just pick this up:
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/engin...chine-new.html

And then find a Chevy NP205….

You can have it up & running for under $1k.
I have a line on a round 205, but that doubler has a 32 input spline, which means getting a 241 out of a dodge to fit my 727 transmission.
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Old 12-12-2013, 02:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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How many spline ?

27 are everywhere.

You could make $ on the 32 spline.


If you don't use that "line ", hook me up. (I'm tired of my flipped Ford leaking).
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Old 12-12-2013, 02:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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How many spline ?

27 are everywhere.

You could make $ on the 32 spline.


If you don't use that "line ", hook me up. (I'm tired of my flipped Ford leaking).
done, I just sent an email to see if he still has it.

chevy np205 transfer case

I've been on the fence for 2 days on this case as I would need the short 32 spline input.

Say $400 for the 205, plus $150 for the short input as it has a long.
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Old 12-12-2013, 06:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Talk to this guy.
He is closer.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/engin...e-jeep-lc.html
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:21 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I've been on the fence for 2 days on this case as I would need the short 32 spline input..
Just to say... Iv'e never broke my Klune/205 combo. Yes the female 32 spline shorty is installed.

If you dont have the TH400 205 style TC, you can always have someone bore the TC to fit the larger bearing/shaft.
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Just to say... Iv'e never broke my Klune/205 combo. Yes the female 32 spline shorty is installed.

If you dont have the TH400 205 style TC, you can always have someone bore the TC to fit the larger bearing/shaft.
I do think boring the case for a big bearing is the way to go. I think all the guys that make these boxes know that finding a 205 round pattern is like finding hens teeth.

Now who does the boring? I can buy an empty big bore case on ebay for $150.
I have a 205 in nice shape, but its a small bearing.
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:29 AM   #16 (permalink)
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5.44 is a ton of gear to an automatic, somewhere in there your going to be shifting to neutral as the brakes won't hold it. Seems gear ratio wise you should be around 4. Did I miss what gears you run in the diffs? Mark
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:35 PM   #17 (permalink)
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5.44 is a ton of gear to an automatic, somewhere in there your going to be shifting to neutral as the brakes won't hold it. Seems gear ratio wise you should be around 4. Did I miss what gears you run in the diffs? Mark
Mark, your correct 5.44 will want to push through the brakes on an auto, but its easy to shift an auto. 50:1 for an auto is good for west coast slow wheeling and the 5.44 would put me closer to 60:1.
I'm running 4:56 in the axles and 37" tires, so at 800 RPM's puts me just north of 1 MPH. My old case had 5.44, I would just push it to neutral if I needed to stop for a period of time, or just shift to 3:1 for stop and go traffic. Even in 3:1 with the old case, I would push it to neutral if I was stopped for a period of time in traffic. The manual guys don't even think about the trans, it just goes to neutral.
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:53 AM   #18 (permalink)
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As Rick did, just go to a higher stall converted to fix the "can't stop my slushbox!" problem with low gears.

He was running a 4:1 Klune in front of a 205 (IIRC) at the time. He did manage to hurt the 4:1 Klune.

For the stick shift guys, you can get an AA tail adapter to a 23-spline round setup that lets you consider a lot of these non-Dana 20/300 options.

Like a 23sp Dodge NP203 for a doubler, or the 23sp NP231 or 241 Box4Rocks type setups.

I still haven't gotten around to do anything about it - but now have a 3:1 Dana 20 to try to hurt.
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Old 12-22-2013, 10:49 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Mark, your correct 5.44 will want to push through the brakes on an auto, but its easy to shift an auto. ...neutral.
the issue for me was more with technical driving. I would frequently push through my brakes, putting me into a spot I didnt want to be in and essentially off the line I wanted to be in. You know, those times where you are just trying to go a few inches, stop, turn, then go again. By the time the torque converter was spun, I pushed through the brakes and off line.
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:18 PM   #20 (permalink)
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The northwest fab titan black box is a great combo. If you have an auto, and are worried about pushing through the brakes get a higher stall converter in it.
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:49 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Mark, your correct 5.44 will want to push through the brakes on an auto, but its easy to shift an auto. 50:1 for an auto is good for west coast slow wheeling and the 5.44 would put me closer to 60:1.
I'm running 4:56 in the axles and 37" tires, so at 800 RPM's puts me just north of 1 MPH. My old case had 5.44, I would just push it to neutral if I needed to stop for a period of time, or just shift to 3:1 for stop and go traffic. Even in 3:1 with the old case, I would push it to neutral if I was stopped for a period of time in traffic. The manual guys don't even think about the trans, it just goes to neutral.
There never has been much consensus regarding how much low range is enough for an auto behind a V8. Did you find yourself using double low 5.4-1 very often?
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Old 12-22-2013, 08:37 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I always thought that a higher stall would create way more heat because it would be slipping way more at slow speeds.
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Old 12-22-2013, 11:40 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I always thought that a higher stall would create way more heat because it would be slipping way more at slow speeds.
Yes, a high stall does generate the heat. I'm not sure if all high stall torque converters are created equal in that regards, but it's nothing that coolers and fans can't handle.
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:44 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Mark, your correct 5.44 will want to push through the brakes on an auto, but its easy to shift an auto. 50:1 for an auto is good for west coast slow wheeling and the 5.44 would put me closer to 60:1.
I'm running 4:56 in the axles and 37" tires, so at 800 RPM's puts me just north of 1 MPH. My old case had 5.44, I would just push it to neutral if I needed to stop for a period of time, or just shift to 3:1 for stop and go traffic. Even in 3:1 with the old case, I would push it to neutral if I was stopped for a period of time in traffic. The manual guys don't even think about the trans, it just goes to neutral.


Interesting, my Cruiser (FJ60) has a 302/aod/NP203/LC tcase and 4.88 gears. This puts my low range at 2.4x2.0x2.2764x4.88=53.32.

The torque converter is a stock bronco unit and I do not have any problem stopping the cruiser in double low. Funny part, I've ran the con for the last two years in it and don't use double low much at all.
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Old 12-23-2013, 12:27 PM   #25 (permalink)
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The northwest fab titan black box is a great combo. If you have an auto, and are worried about pushing through the brakes get a higher stall converter in it.
There box is almost an 1" shorter, as they used a sealed bearing in the front of the 205 case to get the reduced length. They have not updated there website yet.
The only pics are on the pirate.
The ORD version has been out longer.

Quote:
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There never has been much consensus regarding how much low range is enough for an auto behind a V8. Did you find yourself using double low 5.4-1 very often?
Depends on who you are following. Last trip through I was following someone who was there first time through, so 5.44 most of the trip.
even that was not slow enough at times. As drivers stop and look for a moment.

My first time through I was following Reuben and Joe at 25MPH with a Dana20

I have 37 tires and 4.56 in the rear, the 5.44 is a good low range without being stupid low. I can stop but you can tell it wants to keep moving. If going up a steep hill then stopping its not an issue as the weight of the rig is helping the brakes.
It's when it levels out it will want to inch forward. 1800 stall, from what I was told.

I was having a TBI issue for a while when the rpms would get low 600?, it would just squirt in some gas, revving the motor and pushing me where I did not want to go. That was pissing me off more then anything. I "think" I got that resolve as the last time out no issues at low rpm's.



I going to go with an NP205 with a range box in front.
Now I just have to decide between the ORD Magnum or the NWF Titan
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