Ok, so I thought it might actually be time to start putting a build thread together. I have been putting it off for a while now, mainly because I suck at updating them and also because so far I have been moving really slow on the new rig. Its time to actually start getting serious on it now since I took the old one apart and transplanted it all into the kids 800. Dobby
Over the last 2 to 3 years I have been slowly accumulating parts as I have been going to get ready for the new one. The old rig gave it its all for way to many years and had just been beatin like a mutt and was to the point where I couldn't keep it together with as hard as I had gotten on pushing it. After its trip to MOAB in June where the front housing broke in half I made the decision to stop putting anymore time and money on its poor dead carcass and put a round in its head, may it rest in pieces.
So the original plan was:
Flipped and narrowed Ford 60 in the front for passenger drop
Shaved C&C 14 bolt rear
Four linked front and rear with ORI's
At some point during the many night shifts and everything and with many discussions with Dboy, Plug Ugly and many others it got changed up to keeping it driver drop and going with a 205. Allot of this was driven by the realization that I have had a ford 205 laying in the corner of the shop under some shit for a few years. I have just always been partial to the passenger drop of the scout and wanting to re-use parts from the current rig, I had never put any though into just going this route.
With that change up I also wanted to drop the 203 doubler and just go with a D&D range box instead. Doing that would make clocking and setting everything up allot easier. After trying to run duffy to ground for a few months I finally went back to NWF and went with their ECO box.
I finally dug up a ford Dana 60 that didn't cost me both of my nuts in may of 14 and drug it home. The 5.3 and 4l60 had been sitting in the corner for a while already also a there was a pile of 14 bolts out at the old mans, and allot of the other parts for building the axles had been ordered and stashed as I had accumulated funds to get them. So towards the end of last year I actually started working on it.
So for the rest of the people that have minds the need the pretty pictures like mine does here you go.
One 89 F350 donor truck. None runner/none driver. Kids was out on the beach doing cookies and swapped the motor. Before they could get it off the beach the tide came in. It had salt water up to the windshield. They did get it to start and run after that but the trans wouldn't work right. By the time I got it the wire harness corrosion pretty much made it not worth even thinking about trying to make it run.
One JY 5.3
Random Parts from the Rat hole:
Dana 60 Detroit and 5.38 gears
Pair of RockTastic motor mounts
Artec Dana 60 truss. Will cover this more latter on.
So first thing I did was drag the 14 bolt and 60 home and started in on them. The 14 bolt was pretty straight forward. Stripped it down and got it all cleaned up.
I then took a little bit off the top, errr, bottom. Tossed it in the oven at 450 for a few hour's then yanked it out and welded it up.
I didn't get any pictures during the rest of the shave, was working by myself and dealing with hot shit it wasn't in the front of my mind to do. This is a shot after I had the rotors and everything done showing the clearance with it sitting on the floor, resting on the rotors. Weld looks like shit though. This was my first time welding with the nickle rod and I really struggled with it being so runny.
Then the truss was installed and all welded up.
A shot of the Nord Locks and axle bolts. When going through and cleaning everything up I found that the bolt holes threads stopped almost a half inches before the bottom of the holes so I ran the tap the rest of the way in. For the bolts I ended up having to buy ones that were allot longer than I needed so that I could get the correct shoulder length. I then cut them down so that when they were torqued down there would be 1/8 to 3/16 gap before they would bottom out in the hole. Added in a bunch of red locktigght and torqued them down.
With the easy end out of the way I moved on to the 60.
Being able to steal the plasma from work whenever I need it sure makes allot of shit easier. :D
You could really tell this thing had spent allot of time on the beach. Almost ruined the spindles getting them off. The inner bearings and the axle were seized together. Took mass quantities of heat, pry bars and dead blows to get the to break loose.
And then there was the king pin's. I went with the "cut around the base with a cutting wheel on the 4", weld a piece of DOM to it and then bend the shit out of your pipe wrench when you have to use a 10 foot cheater on them.
The bare housing ready to head off to be narrowed.
Took the housing to work and went to town with the portaband and got it narrowed down.
Ended up scarfing most of the weld out with the plasma, putting a slit in the tube with a sawzall and then pressing the tube out. A little bit of clean up with the grinder and it was good to go.
I packed the axle tube full of ice and then put the C on the bearing heater to get it nice and toasty. Didn't fit very good but it more than did the job. I still have a mark on my right arm where I acedenty brushed against the C after it had been put back on to prove it. :mad3:
Clamped it down pretty good and then slid it on. Only took a little bit of BFH persuasion to get it seated all the way on.
you got a lot of cats?
did that ford you got come with a SBF and a C6?
On the front truss, Artec used to offer one that fit a narrowed front Ford 60. Back sometime late 13 early 14 when I ordered the truss I would have swore the site gave the option to order either the narrowed one or the full width one and I picked the narrowed one. Well when I went to start mocking it up I found out the one I had was full width. Sent Atrec a PM and after a couple days I hadn't gotten anything back and I think I also posted in the thread on hear about the narrowed truss, so I sent them an email. Took a few days but I finally got a response and pretty much got "we don't make it anymore". The way it came across seemed weird so I gave them a call. The guy that answered when I asked about the narrowed truss did one of the "oh its you" responses. Felt like he pretty much brushed me off and told me we don't offer it anymore. Well can you? nope. Do you still have the file and maybe I can have it cut locally? nope, we deleted it. :confused: Ok, what the fuck ever. So this takes me to the next step of taking their truss and narrowing it to fit my axle. It really went allot better than I figured it would. I got away with pretty much measuring it all out and figuring out where the material had to be removed in each piece to make it work and look like it should, and then slid them into the little sheer at work and cut it up. Laid it out on the table and on the axle then got it all welded back together.
I ended up having to omit one of the three upright pieces and the steering is off centered which I compensated for in the tie rod lengths, but I think it turned out really good. Took it home and spent a bunch of time finish welding it all up.
At this point I was able to install the gears and Detroit in it and then measure for the passenger side inner axle length and get them ordered.
Throw in a hand full of the normal Dana 60 rebuild parts like bronze bushings, highsteer arms, king pin rebuild kits and the miscellaneous bearings and break parts and you have one set of 65" WMS to WMS axles ready to go. :smokin::smokin::smokin:
Nope a FI 460 and a E4OD, free to you if you come get them, especially after taking in the load of crap for scrap after doing a bunch of clean up last week. At .0125 a lb what normally would have been $100 to $125 load probably didnt even cover the fuel to haul it in. :mad3:
During the axles I also tore into the 205. It also got a little trim off the top and fully rebuilt.
Here is what I started with. I had actually tried to sell this thing cheap off and on over several years and pretty much couldn't give it away. :shaking:
Before I even stripped it down I took it to the plant and shaved it off so I could get as much off as I could and wanted too. Used a sawzall for the major hack and then worked it down to where I wanted it with a flapper wheel.
Made up a plate for it, tacked it on and then threw it in the oven for a while.
After it was thoroughly up to temp it got yanked out and fully welded. Did allot better with the nickle rod this time too. Tossed it back in and slow cooled it back down.
After it had cooled of. It is amazing how easy these old parts come clean after a good heat bath. Just takes a little bit of time with a wire brush on the 4 inch and its all good to go.
Got a 6 planetary gear set out of a 241HD and pressed it in the NWF Eco box. That thing is a sessy work of art. :eek: I ordered everything from NWF the J.B. Custom fab. Got the Advance adapters piece to go from the 4L60E that has the VSS adapter in it to get the signal before the cases and NWF makes an adapter to go from that to their box so that you dont have to change out the output shaft and keeps it shorter.
J.B. Custom fab had never had one of the Eco boxes in their hands either so they were able to make up the bracket for the cable sifters for it before I picked it up, and I went with a full set of triple sifters from them. They really do some beautiful work.
I then got the 5.3 up on the stand and started cleaning it up, cutting down the harness and setting the headers on it to see how it will look.
Harness done except for the fuse/relay block. Figured I would do that after its in the car so I can customize it a little better.
Also pick up the Mast oil pan with the extra baffles from anysevenoffroad. Still need to get the accumulator and fittings from them but I am not in a hurry on that part.
The next piece for it was the york mount from Goat built. Very well built part. :smokin:
and of course I have to shove a piece of IH into it as much as possible.
So that pretty much catches it up till about May. Except for the York mount I got about a month ago I hadn't done more than stumble past it in my messy ass shop. Had the trip to MOAB and then trying to move everything into the kids rig and just general life it has been on the back burner for a wile.
Then this last weekend I was going to go meet some people in Reno for the nationals race and they had to go and get themselves laid up and couldn't make it. Of the other 4 people that were going to ride with me, they all just bailed one by one so I said fuck it and stayed home. Went down Friday and ordered up a bunch of DOM tubing for it and spent some time trying to finished up the cleaning/gutting of the shop so I can finally drag the tub and frame home from the old mans so I can get started on it.
Friday afternoon I had ran out to the old mans and they were having a huge estate sale out by his place so we swung by just to check it out. Took a bunch of time to track the guy that could make the decisions down and agreed to meet him out there the next morning and we were able to come to an agreement on a few trucks that were sitting out behind the barn. Well by the time it was all said and done I ended up with a 4x4 90 chevy with a 5.7 and a slipping 700R4, a 4x4 94 chevy running driving with a 5.7 and a pre electronic 4L60 and a 4x4 99 running driving 2500HD with a 6.0 and a 4l80E. The bodies on them are really ruff and all the glass in two of them had a baseball bat taken to them by the local tweekers. Wheels and tires stolen and sitting on the rotors but none of the wiring harnesses had been cut :eek:. The guy himself had been involved with the local tweekers and had been dead for a while so they had been having a free for all on most of his stuff. The deal came with an as is don't call me warranty, no keys or paperwork on anything as it had all been stolen from the house and I had to guarantee I would never try to put any of them back on the road because I said I was only wanting them for parts. It came out to a whopping price of $600 cash if I had them off the place that morning. :smokin::smokin::smokin:
Can anybody say MO POWA!!!!
Time to start getting serious.:D
cats= your first several pics are of a cat saying "no pictures" or something.
Dang, you have been a busy little hoarder. Cant wait to see it at KOH this year!!!!!!!!!!!
I need to do the dame thing to my 205....
Oh, and I think you blew the 'junkyard' theme pricing WAY out of the water.
There, all the cats were wok'd up and gotten rid of. You know what they say, the only good cat is a cooked cat. :D
did I miss what you are doing for a frame and chasssis?
Hadn't done anything more than hint at that yet.
Going to start with this tub and frame, throw in allot of sawzall on the pannels and strip all the un-need crap off of the frame. I will then set the tub back on the mounts and set the engine as low and as far back as I can, lifting the tub up a little to help on clearance until I am happy with it and then build up from there.
Thought about starting from scratch but I have the VIN plate and title for this one in hand. One of the goals is to be able to have it plated so it can be driven on the road. I have a specific bucket-list type of event I would really like to try and do with it after it is done, and that is one of the main requirements. :D
Nice when all the parts hoarding pays off :D
Nice score btw!!
:flipoff2:, was wondering how long that was going to take someone to point out.
Going to actually come out ahead on the whole deal. Me and a buddy half'd the purchase so I am only in $300 so far. He get the truck with the 5.7 and slipping trans for his mid 90's short wide. Needs the motor and rear end. We already have a buy'er lined up for the other 5.7 and 4L60 that the guy wants for a Toyota swap which will actually put us both cash in hand over what we paid for all three truck after splitting the money for that. Might get stuck doing the swap in the yota also which wont be to bad for a little cash side job on top of the price of the drive train package. :smokin::D
The tub and frame are finally home.
Got the new engine to fire off today, but I am fighting getting it to run because of the vats. Without the key to measure I am shooting in the dark on what the resistance needs to be to trick it into thinking the key is there. Going to have to borrow a good potentiometer from work to use so I can get it fired off.
IMHO you'd be time ahead buying a 2nd hand HP tuners or having it tuned to disable VATS and be off and running. It would simplify your harness a lot not having the BCM plus you can add some poneys at the same time. Done it and seen it done several times.
It's in a complete supposed running driving truck that I got at an estate sale. No keys or title for 2 trucks, $600 cash. House has since burnt down, amazingly, so no chance of getting them. I just want it to run and prove it will move under its own power before I yank everything I need out of it.
nice build, looking forward to seeing the body set onto the frame.
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