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Old 06-22-2018, 02:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Monster in a Shoebox Build- 66 Scout 800

Specs:
Motor: 2012 Ram 5.7L Hemi, 6.1L forged crank, Manley H Beam rods, ported/polished heads, SRT8 headers. Guessing close to 500HP with tune.
Trans: 03-05 Dodge 2500 NV4500 5 Speed (29 spline)
T-Case: NP241C
Axles: Ford SD Front with 3 link, D60 rear with 4 link

https://i.imgur.com/wwdTrME.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3TuHkby.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Zkb2jC3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/82oGbZ7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/avnKhRo.jpg

Last edited by 06silverback; 06-22-2018 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 06-22-2018, 03:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This should be good, subscribed.
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Old 06-22-2018, 03:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Before anyone asks why Im building a frame- I wanted a 20ga tank and the 05ish wrangler tanks are 34 wide so I decided Id prob have the same amount of time in a new one. The tank uses the same pump/sending unit as the hemi equipped stuff, so no messing with the fuel pressure or using an external pump. My background is def rock crawling, but this will be a DD truck.
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Old 06-23-2018, 01:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Working on shock mounts at the axle:
https://imgur.com/gallery/OAy079u
https://imgur.com/gallery/pv7zaw1

Top link:
https://imgur.com/gallery/rr9KB08

Steering box mount:
https://imgur.com/gallery/QqfUF2M
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Old 06-23-2018, 01:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for sharing the pics and nice welding. I feel stupid for asking but I can't see where that lapped joint is in the larger pictures? And Im curious as to why you used a lap joint rather than mitering? How many hours do you figure you have into the frame in the latest pictures? What thickness is the tubing?
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Old 06-23-2018, 02:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Its all 2x4 boxed tube and the gussets are 3/16 steel. Heres how I did the tube before the plates went over:
https://imgur.com/gallery/HpGX8VI
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Old 06-25-2018, 12:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Looks good.

Not sure what wheelbase you are looking at...but I would think about stretching it a bit. Those short links, with short wheelbase, and with the power, will be interesting.
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Old 06-25-2018, 03:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Harvester of Sorrow View Post
Looks good.

Not sure what wheelbase you are looking at...but I would think about stretching it a bit. Those short links, with short wheelbase, and with the power, will be interesting.
I was thinking the same. The front is stretched 2 as of now and Im gonna see where that lands me. The rear lowers are 39 and rear uppers 31 I believe. The frame is pretty wide and the uppers triangulated pretty far, so kinda looks worse than it is. Im def leaving room for adjustment. My end game is going to be driving it almost daily and using it to pull my next buggy build.
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Old 06-25-2018, 06:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If you can keep it low and the lowers flat it should be fine.
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What ever you do, please do not suck start a shot gun.

Stick it up your ass...that way you're likely to hit something vital.
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Old 06-26-2018, 03:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If you can keep it low and the lowers flat it should be fine.
I mocked everything up at 19 frame height on 37s with the rear uppers being 2 higher at the axle than at the frame. I put the progressive rate coils on the rear and its purely a guess at this point, but I think once weight is on the rear theyll be parallel. The front will be lower at the frame than the axles, so no problems there. Trying to think of everything while its just bare steel is interesting lol. I think at this point the pan will clear the top link.

Most of Sunday was spent tackling the hi steer arm on the passenger side. My wheels are from a newer (15) Dodge Cummins I got from a local guy and I had the centers bored for my hubs. Theres very little backspace to them, so I had to fab a new arm that cleared the wheel and wouldnt hit my panhard mount at the axle. The Ackerman is kinda a mute point trying to get clearance. Even though I dont plan on this being crawled I want the hi steer on that side so the steering angles are all correct. Itd drive me nuts just looking at it if not.
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Old 06-26-2018, 04:44 AM   #11 (permalink)
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You should be just fine then.

That whole pan to the front links thing...
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What ever you do, please do not suck start a shot gun.

Stick it up your ass...that way you're likely to hit something vital.
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Old 06-26-2018, 06:03 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You should be just fine then.

That whole pan to the front links thing...
Stupid details

I'm going to try getting the knuckle finished today and lengthen the steering arm on the box so I can get the full turn out of the axle. The stock jeep arm has a drop and I'll wrap the larger splined end with 2 pieces of 1/4" and tie it all together for a straight arm and the links will line up
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Old 06-27-2018, 04:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Got the hi steer done in the passenger side knuckle but not on yet. Working on the steering arm tonight to get all the turn from the 60 and my links perfectly parallel.
https://imgur.com/gallery/DZ2tWNx

Finished pitman
https://imgur.com/gallery/B8B1F9R

Last edited by 06silverback; 06-28-2018 at 05:30 AM.
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Old 06-29-2018, 08:34 AM   #14 (permalink)
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good work but i dont like following links lol

Last edited by Tacedaddy; 06-29-2018 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 06-29-2018, 05:03 PM   #15 (permalink)
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good work but i dont like following links lol
I know, but photobucket went all douchebag on us and I refuse to pay them
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Old 07-02-2018, 08:22 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Did some more work over the weekend. Got the 20 gallon Wrangler tank in:
https://imgur.com/gallery/5MrIYEp
https://imgur.com/gallery/YXK2SwU
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Old 07-14-2018, 07:16 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Frame finished, now ready to get the body test fitted.
https://imgur.com/gallery/5mgdBBE
https://imgur.com/gallery/YTd945w
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Old 09-21-2018, 01:50 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Body panels in, body on, working on mounts/sliders
https://imgur.com/a/G64fzqt
3.5 trimmed off the rockers for those that notice



Last edited by 06silverback; 09-25-2018 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 09-26-2018, 06:55 AM   #19 (permalink)
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What wheels are we looking at there?
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:13 AM   #20 (permalink)
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What wheels are we looking at there?
Looks like factory Silverado 20's, especially with the offset.
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Old 09-26-2018, 06:36 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Looks like factory Silverado 20's, especially with the offset.
Hell no lol.....anyone putting 20’s on a Scout should be shot. They’re 18” 3rd Gen Dodge Cummins wheels. The new dodges are electronic and don’t have lockouts, so I just bored them to fit over my Ford unit bearings. I didn’t want a huge offset wheel since I put 60’s under it they’re already wide enough so those fit pretty well (8 on 6.5)

Last edited by 06silverback; 09-26-2018 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:34 PM   #22 (permalink)
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This is going to be a great build.

subscribed.
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Old 09-27-2018, 06:16 AM   #23 (permalink)
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The blue tape I'm using to mark the rear quarters because I'm going to stretch those wheel wells 3-4" and the front I'm going to do something similar possibly. I stretched the front 2" when I did the new frame, but with the rear of that front quarter trimmed it doesn't really look too bad how it is so we'll see

Last edited by 06silverback; 09-27-2018 at 06:17 AM.
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Old 10-04-2018, 04:52 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Took today off work to be out in the shop. Got one front fender started this last week:


This is a 4” fender stretch

Last edited by 06silverback; 10-04-2018 at 04:55 AM.
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Old 10-04-2018, 05:00 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Since both sides had rust damage I basically had to cut them out and build them back. I used 1/8” plate with a bend to match the angle of the firewall and welded it in. I do not like the cages I’ve seen with the bar in the way, so I’m plating this panel with layers after I do a 1.75” hole to run a short piece of tube thru to connect the cage in there tight. Will post pics of that later as it progresses.
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