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Old 08-30-2006, 07:25 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Old 08-30-2006, 07:38 PM   #177 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creepy196
It was worth a try...


BTW- Since you're planning on runnin' a twin stick setup (three including the 203), did you remove the interlock pills from the D300? If not, better do it now...

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Old 08-30-2006, 08:02 PM   #178 (permalink)
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so do I need to do anything to the 300 or ??

EDIT

found this..

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/#FWDHi

At this point I don't think I will mess with it, all it stops me from doing is FWD hi range..
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Old 08-31-2006, 02:31 AM   #179 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon
so do I need to do anything to the 300 or ??

EDIT

found this..

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/#FWDHi

At this point I don't think I will mess with it, all it stops me from doing is FWD hi range..

I don't have experience with D300s. I do know that it's an 'improved' D20. The twin-stick D20 in my Scout 800 wouldn't shift into FWD-low with the pills in place. The choices available were RWD-low (left stick forward), N (duh), 4WD-Low (both sticks forward), RWD-Hi (left stick back), and 4WD-Hi (both sticks back). It wouldn't let me move the right stick (front axle) forward or backwards when the left stick(rear axle) was in the middle (N) possition. The interlocks only allowed the F stick to be moved from neutral to whatever possition the R stick was already in. If the F stick was in neutral I could move the R stick whichever way I chose. Remember that these movements are for the sticks, not the shift rods which of course move in the opposite direction.

I agree that FWD-Hi isn't all that usefull for most non-comp wheeling. However, FWD-Low is usefull at times, especialy if you have a Detroit in the rear. With the pills out, I can shift both axles independantly. Of course, there's a danger involved as stated in the 4X4Wire article!

I haven't twin-sticked a D20 that wasn't already twin-stick from the factory. Maybe the interlock notches on single-stick D20 shift rods (and therefore D300 shift rods) are diferent than those on twin-stick D20 shift rods. It would make sense as the rod notches affect the 'sequencing' of the shift rods in a single-stick setup.

Great...now I've gotta pull the shifter assembly off of a spare single-stick D20 and start playing with the shift rods to see if I can get it in FWD-low with the pills still in there!

Before you bolt the case in the rig you may wanna see if you can shift it into FWD-low (if you care for that option). If you don't need to engage the front axle without engaging the rear (you do have ARBs instead of Detroits afterall) then just say "screw it" and bolt the sucker up!
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Old 08-31-2006, 09:18 AM   #180 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creepy196
I agree that FWD-Hi isn't all that usefull for most non-comp wheeling.
I run a Dana20 that is twin sticked...I have been using the shit out of FRONT HI lately for doing digs around tight corners, root notches, lifting up and around tight trees...

With the auto I prefer FRONT HI over FRONT LO because of spin-up...less torque loading on the front joints...and on the front drive shaft.

Just my .02cents...As either way...being twin sticked is better than not being.
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Old 09-06-2006, 11:06 PM   #181 (permalink)
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Well gee on flat ground I could fit about a 2 3/4" driveline (tranny interference) but then if it flexes..



This would work much better with a drivers side drop tcase and a drivers side diff.. hmmmm

Wonder if I should mess with swapping tubes (not exactly fun)



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Old 09-07-2006, 01:20 AM   #182 (permalink)
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Oh Crap...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon
Well gee on flat ground I could fit about a 2 3/4" driveline (tranny interference) but then if it flexes..



This would work much better with a drivers side drop tcase and a drivers side diff.. hmmmm

Wonder if I should mess with swapping tubes (not exactly fun)



I see a modified tranny crossmember, small diameter/thick wall driveshaft, and a modified tranny pan in your future. Bumpstops also look to be your friend. You could mod the crossmember so that it jogs up towards the top of the PS frame rail at the tranny mounting pad. That'd give you a few more inches of clearance. I can't remember what lives inside that area of the tranny pan. Hopefully there's some dead space...

Would it realy be that much better with the pumpkin on the driver's side? From the pics it doesn't look much different on that side to me, other than your engine's offset a little to the passenger side. OTOH, that offset would help a bit, and you can get the housing farther up under the DS spring, bringing the driveshaft yoke closer to the wheel (as Ford intended it of course)...
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Old 09-07-2006, 07:51 AM   #183 (permalink)
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that crossmember was temporary so that is not a problem, and yea - if I can modify the pan life will be much better. I need to pull it to see..

Your right on with the engine offset helping and all..

If I could just find a Ford HP D60..

I could clock the case differently but I don't see that helping. As it is I have to cut that big plate on the 203 (yoke won't rotate, it interferes)
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Old 09-08-2006, 07:07 AM   #184 (permalink)
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Old 09-08-2006, 03:15 PM   #185 (permalink)
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I pulled the pan - plenty o clearance (who needs the pan, right?). I'll get my drivelines to Jess next weekend and hopefully pick them back up the following weekend

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Old 09-09-2006, 08:40 AM   #186 (permalink)
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Old 09-10-2006, 12:44 PM   #187 (permalink)
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Brandon-
Looks like you got the doubler all worked out then. I am watching your build closely, I have a '65 Scout 80 sitting on jackstands in the garage, no big build planned, yet...I am just working on just getting it driveable for now, and gather parts for later.
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Old 09-10-2006, 07:24 PM   #188 (permalink)
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yea, I need to clearance the plate to fit the way it is clocked but it is going to work out well. I didn't want to have to guess on clocking, this way I just picked what I wanted and bolted it together..
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Old 09-10-2006, 07:57 PM   #189 (permalink)
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dont know if your still having problems with that cross member fitting but you should take a look at ORD's website they had to take a stock crossmember and cut and weld some more pieces so it could go up and over the front output shaft... fyi
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Old 09-10-2006, 10:57 PM   #190 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ih4ever
dont know if your still having problems with that cross member fitting but you should take a look at ORD's website they had to take a stock crossmember and cut and weld some more pieces so it could go up and over the front output shaft... fyi
I feel like I have posted it a million times - that crossmember was just for mockup!!

I do need to make a permanent one but that was just something that slid along the top of the frame so the drivetrain was "hung"

I'm not worrked about one but I'll see what they did. I've made quite a few different ones in different rigs though
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Old 09-10-2006, 11:15 PM   #191 (permalink)
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yea, I need to clearance the plate to fit the way it is clocked but it is going to work out well. I didn't want to have to guess on clocking, this way I just picked what I wanted and bolted it together..
I would have worked on the clocking instead of the pan fabricating.
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Old 09-10-2006, 11:48 PM   #192 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scout254
I would have worked on the clocking instead of the pan fabricating.
well the shaft crosses under the pan so clocking it higher would only make it interfere more..

Besides, it's still higher than the 203 so clocking it up higher really wouldn't gain much
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Old 09-11-2006, 12:09 AM   #193 (permalink)
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I know you want ground clearance... but I was thinking clocking down a hair.
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Old 09-11-2006, 09:10 PM   #194 (permalink)
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You should think about a beefier crossmember. I really think that one may be a little under built.

I'd hate to have to tow you out on account of chinsey engineering.





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Old 09-11-2006, 09:15 PM   #195 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chandall
You should think about a beefier crossmember. I really think that one may be a little under built.

I'd hate to have to tow you out on account of chinsey engineering.






u funny


BTW top shot

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Old 09-15-2006, 01:50 PM   #196 (permalink)
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driveline time, you guys running 300's only running 1310 joints in your driveline or is there a flange that will slip in to use a 1350 etc?
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Old 09-15-2006, 02:42 PM   #197 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon
driveline time, you guys running 300's only running 1310 joints in your driveline or is there a flange that will slip in to use a 1350 etc?
You of all people should know how badass toyota u-joints are Let me look around for the # of the guys that make the toyota flange for a Dana300 and dana 44. 1350 joints are much weaker than stock ''toyo'' joints for toyota trust me........


*EDIT* 1-909-629-9002
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Last edited by BLK Scout 800; 09-15-2006 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 09-15-2006, 02:59 PM   #198 (permalink)
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interesting, that thought never occurred to me even though that is what my drivelines have right now since I ran a toy case to the same axles in my last rig..
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Old 09-15-2006, 03:45 PM   #199 (permalink)
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Your kidding me
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Old 09-15-2006, 04:01 PM   #200 (permalink)
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I owe you some or something, you just saved me a ton o $$$
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