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Old 02-28-2006, 02:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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TRAILBINDER buildup

first, let me introduce myself. im a 19 year old kid from yuba city, ca. and im buildin a 75 150 truck. i have alot of plans for this rig and hope to get alot of tips and ideas from you guys. so far, my plans are:

streetable!!(no trailer)
chevy/dodge 1 ton runnin gear
4.88 or 5.13 gears, locked rear
38.5 tsl sx's or boggers
12-15,000lb. winch
build 345(cam,headers,injection)
build 727 or swap in a t-19 wide
MAYBE a 4.1 dana 20 or an atlas
heavy duty everything

as of now the rig is almost completly stock, it has custom wheels and is supposed to have an isky cam. it used to be a 4-speed but was converted to auto to use for towing.
as soon as i bring this beast to my new house, ill post some pics at photobucket or somthing. hope to hear some great ideas!

oh and if anyone has pictures of built ih pickups i would love to see them. thanks

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Old 02-28-2006, 03:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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When you get going on it post a build thread, and I will add it to the FAQ.





Not my truck, just to give you some inspiration.
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Old 02-28-2006, 08:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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well, i brought the truck home, and my plans have already changed. i found that it has a 392 with 51,000 miles, a 727 and a divorced 205. the 392 has a small cam and headers and runs great. ill probly post pics tomarrow
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Old 02-28-2006, 09:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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haha i have no tech to add to this but did you go to yuba city highschool? I saw a gayy ass video in health with some students from there talking about cliques like the cowboys and scrubs. funny shit
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Old 02-28-2006, 09:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAILBINDER
build 727 or swap in a t-19 wide
MAYBE a 4.1 dana 20 or an atlas
Only 3.15:1 available for the D20 as far as I know. 4:1 is for the D300.

You've probably got enough space to swap a 4spd back in from a Scout with a married D20 behind it, then run that to the NP205 in its stock location with a shorterned intermediate driveshaft. Might have to cut the front output part of the D20 case off for front driveshaft clearance, but then you'd have a compound low range straight away, and wouldn't have to change driveshafts or anything. Whatever.
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Old 03-01-2006, 06:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Only 3.15:1 available for the D20 as far as I know. 4:1 is for the D300.

You've probably got enough space to swap a 4spd back in from a Scout with a married D20 behind it, then run that to the NP205 in its stock location with a shorterned intermediate driveshaft. Might have to cut the front output part of the D20 case off for front driveshaft clearance, but then you'd have a compound low range straight away, and wouldn't have to change driveshafts or anything. Whatever.
i may do that, but i dont like the idea of a divorced t-case. it just seems like another thing to break. i would like to swap in a t-19/d20 combo, but at this point im unsure what route to go. ive only owned the truck for a short time, and havnt got to look over everything yet. its been sitting at the past owners for quite a while, so i want to get the bugs worked out.

ive been doing some measuing, and im unsure how im going to lift this thing? i noticed the rear springs are the same as chevy 52"s so the rear isnt a big issue. the front is a different story. i measured 42-43" eye-to-eye, and 23" front eye to centerpin. sound right? 73-87 chevy springs i think are 47" and i dont know eye to center pin lengths. any body have ideas on liftin this thing?i want to clear 38-39.5"s, and im gonna do some cuttin, so i think 4-6" of suspension lift should be okay. ideas????

also, i noticed the steering box is push-pull, but it like lays flat, not up against the frame. i want to put in a d60f with crossover, so the wont work at all, but is there a box i can get that work on this thing without a hugh amount of fab work??

thanks for the help so far, pics should be up tonight.

oh, and i went to sutter high school, not yuba city.
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Old 03-02-2006, 07:44 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TRAILBINDER
i dont like the idea of a divorced t-case. it just seems like another thing to break. i would like to swap in a t-19/d20 combo...

ive been doing some measuing, and im unsure how im going to lift this thing?

also, i noticed the steering box is push-pull .... is there a box i can get that work on this thing without a huge amount of fab work??
Your NP205 is way stronger than a D20...

Go over to Just IH and read the thread in their Truck/Travelall forum on How to lift... for some specifics.

Turn the box a quarter-turn relative to the frame and adjust the steering arm so it's a side-to-side movement.

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Old 03-02-2006, 09:36 AM   #8 (permalink)
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first, let me introduce myself. im a 19 year old kid from yuba city, ca.....
Ugh, I'm in Yuba City/Marysville right now on a business trip..........Lets just say Suicide is an option
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Old 03-02-2006, 12:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Ugh, I'm in Yuba City/Marysville right now on a business trip..........Lets just say Suicide is an option
and colorado springs is a real paradise
nah just giving you shit.
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Old 03-04-2006, 10:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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ok, less jawing and more building.
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Old 03-04-2006, 11:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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well, been workin on gatherin parts and workin the bugs out of her. turned out to be one helluva day. i was pullin off the a/c pump and brackets, and there was a bracket that used a bolt from the thermostat housing,and just my luck, i twisted off the bolt in the intake. no big deal right? WRONG!! i tried for hours to get it out and ended up bustin an easy-out off in the bolt. damn, guess its just a calling for an aluminum intake. whats the word on those nowadays?

anyways, got some chevy 56" springs for the rear, and 2" lowering shackles for a chevy. my truck is factory reverse shackled, so the lowering shackles should lift her bout 2-2.5", and from the looks of the springs, i think they might add some lift too. we'll see. still havnt got my digital camera here for pics, but i will soon!
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Old 03-05-2006, 03:25 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Ugh, I'm in Yuba City/Marysville right now on a business trip..........Lets just say Suicide is an option
Well, what are you waiting for?
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Old 03-05-2006, 09:31 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Ugh, I'm in Yuba City/Marysville right now on a business trip..........Lets just say Suicide is an option
This is your first post? You come out of the woodworks just to show what a prick you are? Don't fukin bother with post #2
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Old 03-05-2006, 07:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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This is your first post? You come out of the woodwork just to show what a prick you are? Don't fukin bother with post #2
I agree completely. If you wan't to be an ass do it somewhere else. Don't take a shit in this kid's thread.



Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAILBINDER
i may do that, but i dont like the idea of a divorced t-case. it just seems like another thing to break. i would like to swap in a t-19/d20 combo, but at this point im unsure what route to go. ive only owned the truck for a short time, and havnt got to look over everything yet. its been sitting at the past owners for quite a while, so i want to get the bugs worked out.

That divorced TC leaves you with LOTS of options when it comes to drivetrain tinkering. If you go with a married setup you're gonna have to use a LONG rear driveshaft. Also, as stated the NP205 is a MUCH stronger case. Stick with it (unless you go BIG $$$ and jump up to an Atlas or STaK). The only weak areas of the divorced TC in Binders is the TC mounting hardware. Beefing it up will help things greatly, as the stock brackets are known to crack.

Since you want to run a manual tranny I suggest you get a wide ratio T19, T18, or T98 out of an IH truck or 2WD Scout. Unlike the married scout W/R T19 setup, these are UBER available and cheap. They'll give you a deep 6.32 or 6.43/1 first gear which will lower your crawl speed significantly from the auto. Bindernut does make a neat suggestion though regarding the Scout T19/D20+divNP205 combo. Hopefully you still have the OEM manual pedal group in there (not swapped out for the previous 727TF implant).

FYI- there are five speeds available for these rigs too. I think there's even a guy selling one in the 'Garage sale' section. They were made in three ratio sets. There's an O/D tranny (T34) that has a 6.21/1 first gear and a .82/1 fith. I have one in my crewcab IH pickup. It's a little gappy for towing but would be AWESOME for a trail rig that gets driven to the trailhead. Swap one in, and the first time you wheel with Scout guys you will enjoy the jealous looks they will give you. You'll be appreciating your divorced TC then!!!

The other two five speeds are the T35 and T36. The T36 has a 6.21/1 first gear but has a 1/1 fith (like fourth in a four speed). It's THE tranny to have for an IH tow rig. The T35 has a DEEP 7.17/1 first gear and 1/1 fith. This is the five speed you'll see in Loadstar trucks and other medium duty IH iron. All the newer IH five speeds I''ve mentioned have an unsynchronized first, with the top four gears synchronized. The T35 is the best of both worlds for a pickup. It's top four gears (all synchonized) almost exactly match first-fourth in a T19close. This is GREAT for normal driving as you can start in second or third (I do this with my T34 too). PLUS it has that bitchin' deep 7.17/1 first for crawlin!

The EARLY IH five speeds (early-mid '60s trucks) are unsynchronized and a PITA to learn to drive. They're not to common anymore. They're the T30, T31, and T32. If you get an IH five speed MAKE SURE to get the bellhousing and clutch linkage. Also, be carefull as they're HEAVY (230+pounds) and take six+quarts of juice!

In any case, be carefull with your fan shroud. The 74-75 IH pickup shouds are unique (the engines are set farther back than the earlier trucks) and can be scarce/pricey come replacement time.

Welcome to the insanity.
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Old 03-05-2006, 08:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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thanks for all that info creepy. i knew the 205 was stronger than a dana 20, it was the middle driveline i was worried bout. i guess the high angle could fix that for me. i knew there was a 5-spd tranny for ih's, but didnt know that much about them. alot of useful info there. thanks

today i pulled my intake to try and get the twisted bolt out, and why i drilling it a chunk broke off by the bolt, so now shes ruined. im hopin that a local junkyard has somthin thatll work, if not i may have to wait for the aluminum ones from ih only.anyone know when those are gonna be out?

i finally posted a few pics of my rig, my f'd up intake, and my new rear shackles. http://photobucket.com/albums/e362/TRAILBINDER/

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Old 03-05-2006, 09:19 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TRAILBINDER
thanks for all that info creepy. i knew the 205 was stronger than a dana 20, it was the middle driveline i was worried bout. i guess the high angle could fix that for me. i knew there was a 5-spd tranny for ih's, but didnt know that much about them. alot of useful info there. thanks

today i pulled my intake to try and get the twisted bolt out, and why i drilling it a chunk broke off by the bolt, so now shes ruined. im hopin that a local junkyard has somthin thatll work, if not i may have to wait for the aluminum ones from ih only.anyone know when those are gonna be out?

i finally posted a few pics of my rig, my f'd up intake, and my new rear shackles. http://photobucket.com/albums/e362/TRAILBINDER/
IHOJeff (coincidentaly of IH Only North) could probably hook you up with another stock 4V manifold (I know he has the one I traded him..) if yours isn't salvagable (I haven't seen the pics yet). Keep an eye on the forum for more updates (also from Jeff) regarding the aluminum intakes!

Edit:A machine shop ought to be able to get that bolt out. I can't see the 'chunk' damage too clearly, but to me it looks like there's still enough meat to hold a bolt or stud as the 'chunk' quickly angles away...

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Old 03-05-2006, 09:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Colorado Springs is pretty nice. But those little super hot places...now that's some serious tourcher. On the other hand, if I were to move to Pheniox, it'd be a direct opposite of what we have here, instead of 'winter buildup times' we'd take summers off and wheel Fall, winter and spring instead!
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Old 03-05-2006, 09:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Holy cow, I didn't think 76Scout's first post wasn't bad. Just made a comment on how boring it is in Yuba City. I knew a lady there once, even dated her, she thought the same thing. Moved to LA...then lost track of her after that.
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Old 03-05-2006, 09:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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ok, less jawing and more building.
Ya, I think old BinderBound's got it here. The tread says its a build, so let it begin....













....with some before pictures!
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Old 03-05-2006, 09:50 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Ya, I think old BinderBound's got it here. The tread says its a build, so let it begin....









....with some before pictures!
Yup, three posts from you and no tech.
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Old 03-05-2006, 10:42 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I looked at your picture of the intake, and you know, it looks to me like it can still be made to work just fine. The picture is a little fuzzy, but the missing chip appears not to have gone too deep. If I recall correctly, the holes there are pretty deep. If you broke off an ez-out in the bolt trying to get it out, it'll be a big pain in the butt to get it out now, but as mentioned above, a shop should be able to take it out for you. You might have to up the bolt size or something and tap new threads, but if that is the only thing wrong, don't dump the manifold! All that hole does is hold on the silly gooseneck for the upper radiator hose anyway, not a high stress location. You can do it.
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Old 03-05-2006, 10:55 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Yup, three posts from you and no tech.
When in Rome.....
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Old 03-06-2006, 10:14 PM   #23 (permalink)
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well, did some more research today. i found that rancho 44044s or some 69-72 gm front springs are what will end up under the front of my rig. they both measure real close to the stock springs, and the hardest part will be makin the bushings fit in the hangers. i also called a local machine shop, and they said it sounds like they may be able to fix my intake, but i needed to bring it by. of course, by the time i got off work they were closed, so hopefully one day this week ill get by there at lunch or sneak off work a little early.

HOPEFULLY, by the end of this week ill have my intake fixed, new carb ordered, and some front springs ordered. i need some opinions on what front springs to order, i know the 44044s flex real good, and supposably can handle the wieght, but they may not give me the amount of lift im lookin for. superlift 69-72 8" fronts are stiff under a chevy, but i think the wieght of an ih powerplant would soften them up quite a bit.plus, with the 8" springs i should get bout 6" of lift, right?
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Old 03-07-2006, 01:17 AM   #24 (permalink)
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springs

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAILBINDER
HOPEFULLY, by the end of this week ill have my intake fixed, new carb ordered, and some front springs ordered. i need some opinions on what front springs to order, i know the 44044s flex real good, and supposably can handle the wieght, but they may not give me the amount of lift im lookin for. superlift 69-72 8" fronts are stiff under a chevy, but i think the wieght of an ih powerplant would soften them up quite a bit.plus, with the 8" springs i should get bout 6" of lift, right?

My buddy used the '73 and newer 8" chev superlift springs under his scout2 . If you look back to the pics that I posted under the t-shirt listing, his is the lime green one. He originally had the 6" springs but were too low for the IH motor and steer setup, so he switched out to the 8".
On the upper shackle mount, I like using the Rancho #971 bushing kit. (This is the orig replacement bushings that they sell for chev upper shakles) The od dimensions of the 971 kit fit nicely in dom tubing, and i left the inner sleve out to fit the larger bolts. I'm also using the 6" superlift springs, does just fine for my 4x needs.

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Old 03-07-2006, 07:02 AM   #25 (permalink)
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What the hell is that hydro assist mounted to on the diff??
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