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Old 11-15-2006, 09:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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will this interfere with later mods..

You ever notice, that when you dont have the time to mess with stuff, stuff tends to break. The other day I turned out of a drive way and started down the road and my flaming river u-joint came off my PS box. I thought WTF and started looking for the reson it came off. I added 1/2" to the steering shaft between the two u-joints and it looked better. But then It started poping and catching when I tuned the wheel. So I get to looking closer and found the all to common crackes in the frame around the steering box. So tomorrow Ill reinforce the frame and I was thinking of making a "straight steer" type brace too. But It looks like it may get in the way later on. Any of you that has used them, have you had any problems with the brace getting in the way of later mods? "like high steer, ect"
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Old 11-15-2006, 10:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have a flat plate style straight steer - so far no problem
soa, high steer, 44044, hydro assist, dana 44

I had similar probs w/ my u-joint (w/ 2" body lift) - got it set correctly the second time around for sure, loosing steering on steep hill climb is not too much fun.
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Old 11-15-2006, 11:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I boxed the frame with 3/8's at the PS box and have not had any issues. I run a 1 ton ford box with x-oxer to chevy flat tops turning 38.5's
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Old 11-16-2006, 08:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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brace

I made one like this out of 1/2" Works great. No clearance issues other then my hydro steer lines rub on it.
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Old 11-18-2006, 12:27 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Actually I used that design because it works, kind off the triangalation thing. It prevents the frame from being flexed. Besides being that scouts had right and left hand drive the holes are already there. Really has nothing to do with a BB thing.
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Old 11-18-2006, 02:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It works because the steering box is not able to flex the frame. This is proven because when you put one on your scout drives straighter on the highway and is less darty. Hence the name straight steer. 472 This assumes your castor, tires, alignment, and any other shit you want to bring up is already correct, and or in good condition. If his frame is already cracked up then it should be obvious he has to reinforce it. I was just responding to what works for me, if you dont like it then
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Old 11-18-2006, 08:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I had a "strait steer" brace and it hit my high steer drag link... So I plated and tossed it out.
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Old 11-18-2006, 10:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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cant we all just get along
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Old 11-19-2006, 12:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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good stuff........
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Old 11-19-2006, 02:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
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All you're doing with a straight steer is pulling the box tighter against the frame via the internal inserts. That does nothing to reinforce the pathetically thin steel of the frame itself. Again, if he reinforces it properly there's no need for a straight steer.
I've seen 2 types of straight steer.

1) Basicly a crossmember thats only purpose is to spread a stressed frame. This is basicly only for F'd up frames and to limit the twist between the main frame rails.

2) A crossmember that does the same as above but incorperates a steering box brace also.

So I guess it depends on what specific issue you have as to what you need. If your frame is twisting due to stress you are going to have to brace the thing someplace.

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What works for you is irrelevant to his question dumbass.
No actually this is the entire point.

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you had any problems with the brace getting in the way of later mods? "like high steer, ect
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Old 11-19-2006, 06:27 AM   #11 (permalink)
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http://www.superscoutspecialists.com...ght-steer.aspx

From SSS
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The stress loads caused by the way the engine mounts to the frame and those imposed by the steering gear over the past 15-20 years
Then what is it?

The style of brace is commonly called straight steer. SSS owns that name and if you dont buy it from them(or whomever had it b4) then your right its not one. But the idea has been coppied and its easily made. So if thats what you mean then your just being petty.
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Old 11-19-2006, 02:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Then go to the BB and search. I bet you find more than 2.
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Old 11-19-2006, 05:06 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Here is what I did.

What I finally did, was sheer up four 3/16" steel plates for reinforcing the frame. I drilled an extra hole in the center to allow me to weld a bead in the middle for a little extra strength. I used two on the frame and the other two on a brace (2" x 2" x 1/4" wall tubing). I figured, for as little work as it would take, why the hell not and just see for myself how well it worked. And if it did get in the way, it is removable. After I welded and reinforced the frame it made a world of difference. That would have probably been enough. Then I put the brace in. While driving I couldn't really tell the difference, but with the brace when you turn the wheel to its extent, it stops very firmly. There is no little extra turn to the wheel that springs the wheel back. It just stops. So Ill keep it in. There is no mistaking it made it even more solid.
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Old 11-19-2006, 05:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Looks good
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Old 11-19-2006, 05:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Looks like a straight steer with a box support. Looks good. How does it feel on the road now? Can you tell any difference?
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Old 11-19-2006, 07:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binderbound
Looks like a straight steer with a box support. Looks good. How does it feel on the road now? Can you tell any difference?
Oh yea, like I said I dont know what made the biggest difference, but both reinforceing the frame and putting the brace in made a huge difference. The steering is very resposive. The springs dont make cracking and poping nioses. And when you turn the wheel to the extent of its travel, the steering wheel stops firmly. Not spongy. I almost had to learn how to re-drive it. No more walking the dog........
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Old 11-20-2006, 07:03 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Very clean.
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