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Old 07-25-2007, 09:34 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Mock up day today. Gettin tight. I have no clue where exhaust is going to go.



Drivetrain centerline is about 10 degrees from level. I am definatley going to do what it takes to have a flat belly except for a slight hump for the 205. I'm going to put the 205 just high enough that I won't have to modify my passenger floor for a driveshaft to clear, although I will have to make a relief for the rest of the case, however it will be hidden under the seat.
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Old 07-26-2007, 05:41 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I'm pretty confident in the ability of the link mounts to take some abuse, the t-case, ehhh, not so much. Perhaps a skid plate that protects the 'case will be the way to go. Then just clock it factory. Any opinions about the spring bushing idea?
Those link brackets will definitely hold up, but you're taking a step backwards by not keeping the bottom of your frame smooth. Any thing that hangs down from the frame like that will catch on rocks causing the entire vehicle to pivot. I've seen it way too many times on buggies.

I think the spring bushing in the frame would be too rigid like you said. What are you using for a xfercase adapter? Is there no way to modify the adapter so you can bolt a crossmember to it?
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Old 07-26-2007, 06:06 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Well, the 1356-205 adapter is custom. It is a 1/2" piece of steel, more than adiquit to mount to, but if I only mount to the center, all the torque from both driveshafts will be transfered all the way up to the motor mounts, through all the parts.

My new idea is to use poly stock replacement motor mounts, 2 poly trans mounts, one in the stock location, one beetween 1256 and 205.

But a softer, rubber spring mount that would lay on top of the frame rail and mount to the t-case mounting point.
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Old 07-27-2007, 02:24 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Your new plan sounds much better. Just make sure the TC mount isn't stiffer than the motor mounts.
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Old 07-27-2007, 06:08 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I am planning on saddling the truss to the back of the axle tube and then gusseting it with some 1/2" CR I've got along the front.
The engineer in me doesn't like the normal butt and weld in the center of the tube due to the low contact/weld area.


I obviously haven't touched the left side yet.

I think I am going to saddle a little more to get the top of the truss low, but comforterably clearanced, to the upper crossmember. I will match the rear of the upper crossmember to the front for more clearance.
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Old 07-27-2007, 11:18 AM   #31 (permalink)
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That's a different way to attach the truss. Looks good.
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Old 07-30-2007, 09:52 PM   #32 (permalink)
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ok, forgot to take the card to shop tonight, here's what happened this weekend though. Due to EAA Airventure, I didn't spend too much time on scoutzall. I did manage to get the truss sadled and welded on and started gusseting. I used a coffee can (same 4" od as D70HD) to trace what needed to be removed. After cutting it away with a sawzall I cleaned it up with the grinder. After I had a good fitting notch, I copied it with a piece of heavy card stock, unwrapped it, wrapped it the other direction around the other end of the truss, then spray painted the end. I simply ground away untill all the paint was gone and it match perfectly. Due to the complexity of this joint, a chop saw doesn't do what you need it too and is borderline deadly to use.





Also finished up modifieying the rear crossmember. Clears the truss perfectly at full stuff. It is basically a shadow of the front part of the member. Then I centered a piece of 1/8"X 1.25" as a cap strip and welded. I also picked up some 3X4 .125 to make a new one right behind the trusses max upward travel, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to leave the old one if it was out of the way.

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Old 07-30-2007, 10:40 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Build looks good but you should expect to get quite a bit of rear steer with that link configuration.
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Old 07-31-2007, 06:02 AM   #34 (permalink)
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and why do you say that?
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Old 07-31-2007, 06:27 AM   #35 (permalink)
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and why do you say that?
Experience.
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Old 07-31-2007, 06:48 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Experience.
K, thats cool. Sort of looking for something constructive though.

I don't see why rear steer should be an issue. The lower axle mounts are 3" wider per side than the corrisponding frame mount. The lower links are also going to be about as level as you can get.
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Old 07-31-2007, 10:42 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Rear steer is quite minimal actually. Yes its there, but don't hinder anything.
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Old 07-31-2007, 06:45 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Rear steer is generally not too big of a issue depending on the type of wheeling you do. Only time it would be a big issue is steep climbs when the front tires get real light. If the weight isn't equal on the rear tires and one side starts to fold under it will go downhill fast from there, literally.
But yeah for most wheeling rear steer isn't a big deal..
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Old 08-01-2007, 05:55 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Do you guys think 2 parallel pieces of .120 wall 1-3/8" DOM tubing would be enough for a tranny crossmember?
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Old 08-01-2007, 11:21 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Should be, I normally use 1.5" tube myself.
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Old 08-01-2007, 08:25 PM   #41 (permalink)
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What wall?
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Old 08-02-2007, 01:45 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Do you guys think 2 parallel pieces of .120 wall 1-3/8" DOM tubing would be enough for a tranny crossmember?
Incorporate a skid plate and it'll be plenty strong.
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Old 08-02-2007, 06:07 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Gitn er dun.
30 degrees no problem, no binding right now and the left side has a WAY to go on down before any binding issues may arise. I think this thing is gonna flex as far as the springs/shocks will let it.



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Old 08-02-2007, 06:48 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Now, how do plan on bracing the upper link truss to the center section?
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Old 08-02-2007, 08:00 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Now, how do plan on bracing the upper link truss to the center section?
X2.

I used a Ruffstuff 3/8" diff cover and tied the upper truss to the diff cover with 2, through the truss bolts.

It has held up fine, mainly because all I do is work on the stupid POS
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Old 08-02-2007, 08:17 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Since the dana 70hd has a nodular iron pumpkin, I'm going to weld to it. After removing the pinion bearings, I am going to tightley wrap a piece of 3/16 or so strap around the neck, right behind where the yoke is, and weld it solid with some nickel rod. Then I'm going to run braces from that up to the truss and add some webbing beteen the upper links to attach to. I might also incorporate a bolt on pinion guard as well.

I honestley don't think that any braceing would be nessasary at all for most conditions because of my gusseting and axle attachment method. The truss tubing is very strong.

This truck is going to be so heavy.
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Old 08-02-2007, 08:35 AM   #47 (permalink)
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I honestley don't think that any braceing would be nessasary at all for most conditions because of my gusseting and axle attachment method. The truss tubing is very strong...
Yes it is.... the truss and it's gusseting all attaches to the axle tubes. The d-shaft transmits all it's power to the center section via the gears and carrier. Tieing the center section to the truss keeps you from ripping out the plug welds and spinning center section on the tubes. This isn't as big of a problem with leaf springs since the springs absorb some the twist by wrapping up. Now when you add an anti-wrap bar or go to a linked suspension, the axle is held so rigidly that weak link becomes the plug welds holding the center section to the tubes.
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Old 08-02-2007, 10:04 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Any thing that hangs down from the frame like that will catch on rocks causing the entire vehicle to pivot. I've seen it way too many times on buggies.
Are you talking about the trans crossmember or the link brackets. I took Rusty and a few other rigs a ton of places in CO and AZ with my 4-link setup and have never been hindered by the link mounts. The trans X-member however, I have seen people get caught up on those.


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You are going to want to gusset the truss to the tube more than that. I'd put plates (or make a box) on the inside of the truss connecting about 2-3" of truss to 2-3" of axle tube.
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What wall?
The smallest I've used was .120. Rusty got .188 and .250 on its crossmember and so did Evo.

I incorperated 3 frame mounts (it looked like a wierd "Y" shape) on Rusty's so I can attach both t-case to it.

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Now, how do plan on bracing the upper link truss to the center section?
Quote:
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Since the dana 70hd has a nodular iron pumpkin, I'm going to weld to it. .... Then I'm going to run braces from that up to the truss and add some webbing beteen the upper links to attach to. I might also incorporate a bolt on pinion guard as well.
That sounds good. I would simply shape a peice of box tube that'll ramp up to the truss and back down to the diff. Either way, definately put something in there.

Quote:
The truss tubing is very strong.
Its 2" x .250" wall DOM. Pretty strong, but I've seen it rip on severely beated rigs. And I'm not talking about ripping at the welds, the tube literally has fatigued over the space of many years of hard use. Be safe, gusset it up.

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This truck is going to be so heavy.
Got Scout
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:25 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Yeah, the link brackets. I saw a guy almost go over the side of Blanca when his left-rear link bracket got hung up. Vehicles are no different than anything else - they take the path of least resistance. If it takes less force to pivot around the bracket than to force the bracket over the rock then that's what she'll do.

Hey, if you don't mind run your kit through the 4-link calculator and post up the screen shot for reference.
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Old 08-05-2007, 07:49 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Starting this. What you see is .125 thick. I am going to fill in what's missing with .18. then the other side is going to be all .125. Then holes bored through and tube welded in.
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