Fresh Meat ~ a Scout Racer Build. - Page 3 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > International Harvester
Notices

Reply
 
Share LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-06-2008, 10:31 PM   #51 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Member # 2071
Location: Helena, MT USA
Posts: 5,084
Send a message via AIM to tsm1mt
Coupla interesting things tonight.

Spoke with Jeff Ismail @ IH Only North at length about the anti-sway bars but still haven't come to a complete conclusion on what rate just yet.

Also asked around about a source for some plastic sheets, and a fellow Scouter and club member that works at a glass shop has access to sheets of lexan and other items - and bonus, he has experience thermoforming hot-tubs (which they'd then use fiberglass to lay up some stiffness)

Looks like I need to get into the electric-oven dismantling business and round up some heating elements and build a sheetmetal oven..
__________________
-Tom
KE7VUX
tsm1mt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-07-2008, 08:53 AM   #52 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Buck Dodson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Member # 35185
Location: Suthern Orygun
Posts: 999
Quote:
he has experience thermoforming
So when you get this oven put together, do you plan on heating and letting the plastic slump, or do you plan to add some vacuum to draw the "putty like" sheet down against a mold?
__________________
Buck Dodson
Chief Scout of Suthern Orygun

A Scout II trapped in an 800 body...

So you think you want to build a 3-link Build


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Buck Dodson is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 02-07-2008, 09:32 AM   #53 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Member # 2071
Location: Helena, MT USA
Posts: 5,084
Send a message via AIM to tsm1mt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buck Dodson View Post
So when you get this oven put together, do you plan on heating and letting the plastic slump, or do you plan to add some vacuum to draw the "putty like" sheet down against a mold?
My current thought, if this goes forward, is to just "drape" mold it - no vacuum.

Partly because I have a set of fiberglass quarters that I'd use for a mold, and I don't want to drill holes in the FG panels just for the vacuum.

If it works out well enough, maybe I'll get fancy and buy some new steel quarters and weld on some end-caps, and drill it for a vacuum pump and go all-out.
__________________
-Tom
KE7VUX
tsm1mt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 02-07-2008, 01:18 PM   #54 (permalink)
Registered User
 
NVScouter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18152
Location: Cody Wyoming
Posts: 3,023
The video I saw of it you use a sheet a bit larger than the mould and the vac portion isnt on the mould. After that you trim the extra.
__________________
If anyone wants to know why illegals should be kicked the hell out, ask someone that busted their ass to be here legally!
__________________
NVScouter is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-07-2008, 09:54 PM   #55 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Member # 105834
Location: Vacaville, California
Posts: 1,212
wow ! looks real nice, lots of pics.
war pony is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-12-2008, 08:08 AM   #56 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Member # 72268
Location: NW PHX
Posts: 153
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm1mt View Post
My current thought, if this goes forward, is to just "drape" mold it - no vacuum.

Partly because I have a set of fiberglass quarters that I'd use for a mold, and I don't want to drill holes in the FG panels just for the vacuum.

If it works out well enough, maybe I'll get fancy and buy some new steel quarters and weld on some end-caps, and drill it for a vacuum pump and go all-out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NVScouter View Post
The video I saw of it you use a sheet a bit larger than the mould and the vac portion isnt on the mould. After that you trim the extra.
I agree with NVScouter.
The information I saw on vacu-forming was set up with the sheet on a frame that had an airtight seal to the vac portion on the bottom. The item you wanted to form around sat on the vac portion spaced up so there could be equal suction around the item.
-Chaz
__________________
Lurking has its privileges
Build threads are cool
[QUOTE=bigtoyfreak]If you can't win, be entertaining! [/QUOTE]
JeepJam is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-12-2008, 09:21 AM   #57 (permalink)
Addicted to Gear Oil
 
guidolyons's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 56050
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 10,001
X3, the sheet vacuum former I used many years ago looked like a big sandwich press. It was about 3' x 3' had a heating element in the top, a sliding frame to hold the plastic sheet, and a the bottom had a preforated sheet with the vacuum.

Put the part you want to copy on the bottom, clamp the sheet in the center frame, turn on the heating element. Raise the plastic sheet to the top (like a broiler oven) once the plastic got soft, lower the frame down over the mold, hit the edge clamps and turn on the vacuum pump.

I never did a large part like a quarter panel, but I think you could do it with out haveing holes in the mold.
__________________
1965 Scout 80 7.3PSD/ZF/203/205 D60F/14BFF
Member: 4 Jackstand Wheeler's Association
Quote:
Originally Posted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower
History does not long entrust the care of freedom to the weak or the timid.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

For the best deal on 8 lug disc brakes click here-->
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
guidolyons is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2008, 10:31 PM   #58 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Member # 64376
Location: Anaconda, MT
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm1mt View Post
There's a race 60 miles from home in March though. I'm going to start putting the 304 back together and get things prepped.
Where's that race, Great Falls? If you can, hit me with a PM and let me know, I'd like to go watch. I was a little surprised to see your collaboration with Damian on this project; I'm excited to watch as it progresses.
el-cid is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2008, 11:04 PM   #59 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Member # 2071
Location: Helena, MT USA
Posts: 5,084
Send a message via AIM to tsm1mt
Quote:
Originally Posted by el-cid View Post
Where's that race, Great Falls? If you can, hit me with a PM and let me know, I'd like to go watch. .
Yep, south of GF in Cascade, MT on 3/15.

Just got home a few hours ago from Ice Racing in Bozeman.. with the daily-driver Scout.
__________________
-Tom
KE7VUX
tsm1mt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-05-2008, 04:42 PM   #60 (permalink)
Pirate4x4 Addict!
 
Urban Wheeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Member # 26369
Location: Luyben's Shop Of Horrors
Posts: 9,651
Blog Entries: 5
Send a message via Yahoo to Urban Wheeler
??
Urban Wheeler is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-05-2008, 05:01 PM   #61 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Member # 2071
Location: Helena, MT USA
Posts: 5,084
Send a message via AIM to tsm1mt
Well, I've been putting the old 304 back together so I can campaign the old racer some more before the new one is ready..



Hope to get it installed this week and the rest of the car prepped before 3/15.
__________________
-Tom
KE7VUX
tsm1mt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-10-2008, 07:29 PM   #62 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Ditchrunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Member # 34517
Location: Mt
Posts: 1,847
Any updates on the new racer?
Inquiring minds and all.
Ditchrunner is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-12-2008, 02:38 PM   #63 (permalink)
Banned
 
Snoopy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5650
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 5,282
Yes, I'll post some stuff in a bit.
Snoopy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-12-2008, 03:35 PM   #64 (permalink)
Banned
 
Snoopy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5650
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 5,282
Well, I've got a little time so I'll update what I can..

Racer is doing good. I've got a few things in and have built another few things. I'd like to get the front suspension finished before hacking off the back end, but we'll see.

I believe I left off with the rear arms. I guess I'll start there.

To insure the CO is below the line made from connecting the front joint with the rear joint we put them below the surface in these 'boat' arms (if that makes sense). This keeps the arms right side up dispite the load put on them. The holes we drilled in earlier were oversized so we can cut out some spacers (made from DOM) and weld those spacers such that the shock stays centered in the link (doesn't flop around on the bolt).

Once the spacers were made, we inserted them in with the shock and got them centered.



Then a tack weld kept them in place.


Oddly enough, I don't have a picture of them fully welded w/ the excess cut and sanded smooth so use your imagination ~ if you will. The shocks should use a 3-3.5" half inch bolt when said and done. We chased the holes after we were done to make sure there wasn't any slag left in there. After that, the bolt and shocks fit in there pretty tight!

The next big thing to report on is the front suspension. We used our standard mounts for the front.

But instead of using our normal 2.250" (3/8" wall) DOM, Tom had us make it out of 2" (.120 wall) DOM. We didn't need all that beef since this rig won't be seeing boulders. The upper link is 1.75" DOM as our normal, but only .120" wall instead of .281".

The tricky part was connecting the two together. Tom wanted to connect the tubes together as close to the frame-side joint as possible to minimize any possible chance of bending the links from the torque generated by axle wrap. Our normal links connect near the center of the lower link ~ Tom was worried that the thinner materials combine with the forces of off-road racing may generate enough 'push' to actually bend the lower link at the connection ~ so we pushed that point as far back as possible. This also spreads any such loads out over the length of the arm, not just at the one point.



These notches were tricky. After drawing a rough part to cut, I used a cut-off wheel to get the rough shape.


Then I used a flapper wheel to feather the parts down till they matched.


The seams were then welded up.

Snoopy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-12-2008, 03:37 PM   #65 (permalink)
Banned
 
Snoopy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5650
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 5,282
I would have loved to leave them like that ~ Not sure if they'd be strong enough, but even so ~ I added a tube near the upper axle joint.


Both together.



Mounted in the truck.
Snoopy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-12-2008, 04:04 PM   #66 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Member # 2071
Location: Helena, MT USA
Posts: 5,084
Send a message via AIM to tsm1mt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoopy View Post
Once the spacers were made, we inserted them in with the shock and got them centered.
How much side to side angle does it accommodate? When the axle articulates, the entire trailing arm will want to twist - first at the axle end joint, then at the front mount, which will rock the entire "boat" around the lower shock mount, which will need to articulate enough that the heim doesn't bind up and bend the shock shaft (BTDT).

Quote:
But instead of using our normal 2.250" (3/8" wall) DOM, Tom had us make it out of 2" (.120 wall) DOM. We didn't need all that beef since this rig won't be seeing boulders. The upper link is 1.75" DOM as our normal, but only .120" wall instead of .281".

The tricky part was connecting the two together. Tom wanted to connect the tubes together as close to the frame-side joint as possible to minimize any possible chance of bending the links from the torque generated by axle wrap. Our normal links connect near the center of the lower link ~ Tom was worried that the thinner materials combine with the forces of off-road racing may generate enough 'push' to actually bend the lower link at the connection ~ so we pushed that point as far back as possible. This also spreads any such loads out over the length of the arm, not just at the one point.
Looking good, Damian.

Before you call them done, plate one or both sides with some light gauge sheet steel. No more than 1/8" mild.

By making the triangle as long / large as possible (bringing the joining point as far back as reasonable) we get by with lighter material only because by tying the two sides together into a triangle we make the top and bottom stronger together much stronger than either would be singly.

By plating at least one side, we amplify that strength advantage. If you have some dimple dies, here's your chance to put a dimple in either side plate and weld the two dimples together in the middle (don't want the radius arm filling up with mud). It would look fast, but mostly add strength and maybe save a little weight.

In unrelated news, the 304 lives again, and runs OK so far. Still a bit of the "new engine, I'm cranky" going on, but by the end of Saturday that'll mostly be gone after I do a "run it like yer gonna" break-in on the race course in Cascade - just like we did the first time this engine was put together. I was making passes down a drag-strip in Brighton, CO and after a couple passes we had to jet the carb up because the rings seated some more and it was pulling more vacuum.. repeat after a few more runs..
__________________
-Tom
KE7VUX
tsm1mt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-12-2008, 04:06 PM   #67 (permalink)
Banned
 
Snoopy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5650
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 5,282
Next I have to say a BIG THANK YOU to Mike @ IH Only in Lancaster. He's the guy behind the RPT line and he hooked us up with some of his finest.

Box arrived. Hum...stickers.


A box of boxes!


Money shot


Motor mounts

Trans mount


You can always tell a successful line of product when you see you have #2930!


In the way of suspension. I also got a bracket from PolyPerformance.


This is their axle-side track bar. We went with this unit over anything else because allows us to MAXIMIZE the TrackBar length on this beast.


A little Chipotle Burrito?


Na ~ its the high-misalignment high-strength heim end for the new bracket.
Snoopy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-12-2008, 04:09 PM   #68 (permalink)
Banned
 
Snoopy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5650
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 5,282
Fits tight ~ almost like they were made for each other!


Holing the bracket up to the axle housing.


The other reason I used PolyPerformance's bracket was that it offsets itself so that you can push it really close to the knuckle AND still fit a coil-over next to it (sloped back that is).


It'll need trimming to get to the final fitment, but you guys get the idea.

For those of you who dont know, the goal is to get the track bar as long as the DragLink will be. This will minimize bump-steer. Normally you can get away with having a difference, since most people don't abuse their stuff like this will. But considering the rig will see more time in the air than most scouts on jack-stands ~ its important to minimize bumpsteer.

That's all the time I have today folks. Maybe later ~ maybe more.
Snoopy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-12-2008, 04:25 PM   #69 (permalink)
Banned
 
Snoopy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5650
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 5,282
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm1mt View Post
How much side to side angle does it accommodate? When the axle articulates, the entire trailing arm will want to twist - first at the axle end joint, then at the front mount, which will rock the entire "boat" around the lower shock mount, which will need to articulate enough that the heim doesn't bind up and bend the shock shaft (BTDT).
Not much at all actually. You'll have to check and make sure the jam nuts at the frame don't come loose to keep the lower link straight. That being said ~ the sides of the arm can be hogged out down to the double-wall thickness for more 'angular' action. I was thinking of doing that just because, and there will be no strength problems by doing it.


Quote:
Looking good, Damian.
Thanks. I was hoping you'd like it. Just need to put that motor in now and finish the rear up. As you know, the cage is coming along but I'm waiting to finish that until the motor is in. I'll also be finishing up the firewall mods at the same time.

Quote:
Before you call them done, plate one or both sides with some light gauge sheet steel. No more than 1/8" mild.
Man, I'd hate to ~ I like the look of tube ~ and honestly, I don't think there's going to be enough strength gain in it to make a difference, but regardless, I've got some dimple dies coming to do just that. I think we'll do both sides and then leave small drain holes near the 'connecting tube' for cleaning.

Oh, and pick some colors man, these arms are getting powdercoated ~ and no, you don't have a choice in the matter

Quote:
By plating at least one side, we amplify that strength advantage. If you have some dimple dies, here's your chance to put a dimple in either side plate...
Hey man, waddya know ~ great minds eh?

Quote:
It would look fast,
Oh man, you had me at 'hello'

Quote:
In unrelated news, the 304 lives again, and runs OK so far. Still a bit of the "new engine, I'm cranky" going on, but by the end of Saturday that'll mostly be gone after I do a "run it like yer gonna" break-in on the race course in Cascade - just like we did the first time this engine was put together. I was making passes down a drag-strip in Brighton, CO and after a couple passes we had to jet the carb up because the rings seated some more and it was pulling more vacuum.. repeat after a few more runs..
Good stuff. That engine looks oh so sweet too. I wish it had an aluminum intake, but save that favor for a 345 or a 392

We're going to have to get Rob to fly me up there with his cheap tickets so I can drive this thing at least once when its all put together. I'll even have you take me for a real lap to scare me a bit.

Last edited by Snoopy; 03-12-2008 at 04:32 PM.
Snoopy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-12-2008, 04:37 PM   #70 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Member # 2071
Location: Helena, MT USA
Posts: 5,084
Send a message via AIM to tsm1mt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damian Grihalva View Post
Next I have to say a BIG THANK YOU to Mike @ IH Only in Lancaster. He's the guy behind the RPT line and he hooked us up with some of his finest.

You can always tell a successful line of product when you see you have #2930!


#1147 is the one I damaged in 2006. It had been in the racer since 2001. Either 1146 or 1148 is still in the racer.

I've had good luck with IHOnly's mounts.
__________________
-Tom
KE7VUX
tsm1mt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-12-2008, 05:03 PM   #71 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Member # 2071
Location: Helena, MT USA
Posts: 5,084
Send a message via AIM to tsm1mt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoopy View Post
Oh, and pick some colors man, these arms are getting powdercoated ~ and no, you don't have a choice in the matter
LOL.

I keep thinking of a poll to see what everyone thinks I should do.. but Michelle went to a photography retreat last weekend and among other things, Red is a good "fast" color that pops off the photograph when taking action photography.. and it just happens that I was contemplating reversing the black/red theme to red/black for the new car.. bonus, IH Red is sold at the farm store.


Quote:
Good stuff. That engine looks oh so sweet too.
Thanks, looks a bit better than it used to! It didn't help that a month after it was built it took a bath in an alkali mud pit that ate all of the paint off..



Quote:
I wish it had an aluminum intake, but save that favor for a 345 or a 392
:nod: With the 345/392 under way, I didn't want to buy a 304 4bbl intake for the stop-gap / backup engine, but I do intend to ask Mike about a beer-can intake for the next one.

For that matter, I might get back to the sheetmetal intake for the 304, just because.

BTW, I have some "LPG" style 304 intake gaskets on the motor now, blocking the exhaust cross-over for a cooler intake charge - and more crankiness when cold.

Quote:
We're going to have to get Rob to fly me up there with his cheap tickets so I can drive this thing at least once when its all put together. I'll even have you take me for a real lap to scare me a bit.
There's also the track in Powell that isn't too-long of a hoof from Denver. Take your wife n' kids to the rodeos in Cody, or cruise into Yellowstone while you're in the area. Plus, 4.5 miles at speed can be fun. Robert's GF had a good time, despite some 2-wheel action, last October.

"Ice racing" in the arena at RMIHR just won't be an adequate demonstration.
__________________
-Tom
KE7VUX
tsm1mt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-12-2008, 05:26 PM   #72 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Member # 1956
Posts: 5,524
So, what are the plans for weight distribution, corner weights and front to rear on the new ride? Got scales?
__________________
Epstein Didn't Kill Himself!
Shadow man is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-14-2008, 01:18 AM   #73 (permalink)
Registered User
 
binderbound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Member # 18592
Location: Redmond, Oregon
Posts: 4,230
Send a message via AIM to binderbound
So why not solid mount the power train like on real race trucks?

Also, your gonna want to build some sort of skin for the lower tubes. The trophy ranger has .120 chromoly links and after 500 miles of pre-running they looked awful. No failures but it has since been beefed up.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
binderbound is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-14-2008, 10:02 AM   #74 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Member # 47726
Location: The Talkeetnas and Chugach
Posts: 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by binderbound View Post
So why not solid mount the power train like on real race trucks?
Good question. My VW Baja has a solid mounted transaxle (and engine but it just hangs off the transaxle anyway). It's a pretty standard 1st step when building a baja bug. FWIW.
__________________
'72 VW Baja Bug
'03 KTM 525EXC-G
Dirt Boy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-14-2008, 01:20 PM   #75 (permalink)
Banned
 
Snoopy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5650
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 5,282
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadow man View Post
So, what are the plans for weight distribution, corner weights and front to rear on the new ride? Got scales?
I want to divide it up such that if you add up the corners, it equals the wieght of the whole vehicle

But really. I don't have any 'goals' per say. I'm moving the engine back completely behind the front axle ~ moving the radiator as well. lightening it up as much as possible and if needed, wieghing down the back a touch with spare tires and such. With stretching the rear axle back and moving the front axle forward, I'm really not sure what the net effect will be. I'm sure it'll fly better than stock ~ how much? Don't know.

Any ideas before I make engine placement permanent? Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by binderbound View Post
So why not solid mount the power train like on real race trucks?
Because this is a Scout ~ not a truck...DUH! I do what I'm told (mostly) ~ Engine mounts included. It would have definately made mounting a little easier...but hey, when is building scouts supposed to be easy?

Quote:
Also, your gonna want to build some sort of skin for the lower tubes. The trophy ranger has .120 chromoly links and after 500 miles of pre-running they looked awful. No failures but it has since been beefed up.
What do you mean? Tom and I have talked about sleaving the bottom for more strength ~ is that what you're talking about?
Snoopy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:08 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.