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Old 07-01-2008, 11:46 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I'm more curious about a disk brake conversion.
here you go...
http://www.uglytruckling.com/Sweptli...%20Manual1.htm
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Old 07-02-2008, 08:01 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Thanks but there has to be a easier, cheaper, better way than that. When I tear into it soon, I'll see what I can see.
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Old 07-02-2008, 09:15 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I agree but pics for reference is nice. Me... I would just cut the junk outers off and put 60 c's and knucks on.

Azzy, love the truck. Makes me miss my 68 1300 4x4. Old iron rules! crawl that shit....
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Old 07-18-2008, 07:47 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Ok.. I should be making a lot of progress this weekend. I will post up more pics tomorrow evening probably.

Saturday morning I'll be running around picking up parts for the truck. I found an Eaton HO52/72 rear for free. It supposedly just needs brakes. 4.11 gears.

Also picking up a set of 5 Hummer 8 bolt H1 wheels and 36" military tires for $350.. Not too bad of a deal.

This weekend is going to be a work-a-thon to get this thing rolling and hopefully stopping too!

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Old 07-20-2008, 03:18 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Ok.. I should be making a lot of progress this weekend. I will post up more pics tomorrow evening probably.

Saturday morning I'll be running around picking up parts for the truck. I found an Eaton HO52/72 rear for free. It supposedly just needs brakes. 4.11 gears.

Also picking up a set of 5 Hummer 8 bolt H1 wheels and 36" military tires for $350.. Not too bad of a deal.

This weekend is going to be a work-a-thon to get this thing rolling and hopefully stopping too!
4.11's in an Eaton? Must be out of a 68-72 Chevy. IIRC, the earlier Chevies used a higher ratio. My 61 has 5.14's in it. Converting the Eaton to disks?
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Old 07-20-2008, 03:23 PM   #31 (permalink)
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4.11's in an Eaton? Must be out of a 68-72 Chevy. IIRC, the earlier Chevies used a higher ratio. My 61 has 5.14's in it. Converting the Eaton to disks?
I havent verified it, but the guy who gave it to me pulled it out of a '68 K20 4x4. He pulled it along with the matching 44 front that had 4.11's. IIRC , the only ratios available were 4.11 , 4.57, 5.14. I'm going to pull the cover in a little while to verify the ratio and check for a No-Spin.

No discs, I'm sticking with drums front and rear.
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Old 07-20-2008, 11:44 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I didnt get near as much done this weekend as I wanted to... had to do some work for a friend that took up half the day today.

I shortened the drivers side of the D70 front by 1/2". Sleeved it just like I did the other side. The axle is at 71.5" wms-wms now. I'm going to reassemble it in the morning, less the ring/pinion and axle shafts and get ready to put it under the truck.





A few pics of the drivers side inner axle shaft I lengthened. I cut a piece out of an old broken dana 44 axle for the spacer.. I figured it would be about as close as I could get to matching the materials. I had the spacer and the two halves of the D70 inner beveled.



It is about 1/3 welded at this point, should have that finished tomorrow. I didnt even bother to sleeve it. We will see how long this lasts.. U-joint shafts are in my near future anyways.

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Old 07-20-2008, 11:52 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Picked up the Hummer wheels and tires Sat. It looks like they will work just fine. The 36" tires look like they will clear the fenderwells fine.



And here is the free Eaton HO52.. I popped the rear cover and everything looks good. No rust, chipping, pitting.. the backlash feels a bit loose, but not too bad. 4.11 gears, open diff.





I pulled the right side axle shaft and wheel bearing locknuts and attempted to remove the hub and drum

The drums are rusted to the shoes and the adjusters are so covered in rust, you cant see the threads or star wheel. It did not want to come off. I have never seen drums with rust holes through them...

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Old 07-20-2008, 11:56 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I used the blue wrench to remove the drums.. in 2 pieces



What a mess



Even after torching the outer part of the drum off, it took quite a while to pry the adjuster out of position so that the rest of the drum and shoes could be pulled off.



The good news is that the backing plate is in good shape

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Old 07-21-2008, 05:43 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Please say your going to put discs on
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:07 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Please say your going to put discs on
He already said no..... I too vote for discs -- SO much easier. And cheaper than tracking down old half obsolete drum parts.
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:07 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Please say your going to put discs on
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No discs, I'm sticking with drums front and rear.
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Old 07-21-2008, 06:34 AM   #38 (permalink)
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...It is about 1/3 welded at this point, should have that finished tomorrow. I didnt even bother to sleeve it. We will see how long this lasts.. U-joint shafts are in my near future anyways.

I give about 5 minutes or less of use on anything besides flat level ground.

matching the shaft material is one thing... but the filler used in joining the pieces is not the same. That coupled with the ginormous HAZ from welding that up pretty much destroys any chance of that shaft holding up for long.
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Old 07-21-2008, 07:08 AM   #39 (permalink)
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and I thought my axles were a challenge. . . . .

Hatsoff to the work ethic.
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Old 07-21-2008, 09:47 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Yeah, I dont expect the shaft to hold for very long.. That is why I didnt even bother to sleeve it. Its more just for fun than anything to see what will happen or how long it will last. I started to weld it with Er70s-2 mild steel filler, but I was getting some fractures while cooling. So I switched to Nickel 99 filler and having no problems now.
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Old 07-21-2008, 11:20 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Yeah, I dont expect the shaft to hold for very long.. That is why I didnt even bother to sleeve it. Its more just for fun than anything to see what will happen or how long it will last. I started to weld it with Er70s-2 mild steel filler, but I was getting some fractures while cooling. So I switched to Nickel 99 filler and having no problems now.

That'll take an ass-load of nickel rod to fill up all that gap! Hell of a lot of $$$ for something that's "just for fun".
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Old 07-21-2008, 11:46 AM   #42 (permalink)
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That'll take an ass-load of nickel rod to fill up all that gap! Hell of a lot of $$$ for something that's "just for fun".
~$40 per pound last time I bought some. I have a little over a pound left from my last purchase. My version of fun differs from most other peoples.. I have the money to spend and dont mind doing so to get my kicks.
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Old 07-21-2008, 01:41 PM   #43 (permalink)
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keep up the good work.
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Old 07-21-2008, 02:28 PM   #44 (permalink)
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~$40 per pound last time I bought some. I have a little over a pound left from my last purchase. My version of fun differs from most other peoples.. I have the money to spend and don't mind doing so to get my kicks.
And I thought $28 was getting high when I bought some nickel rod. What about using some 312 stainless for this application, great strength!! and a lot cheaper too.

Edit...
If your going this far might as well heat treat it too. Toss it in the wood stove and when its a dull cherry color, drop it in some used motor oil. I suspect keeping it straight while welding will be the tougher part
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Old 07-21-2008, 03:10 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Edit...
If your going this far might as well heat treat it too. Toss it in the wood stove and when its a dull cherry color, drop it in some used motor oil. I suspect keeping it straight while welding will be the tougher part
I was thinking about this earlier.. Would it be better to use oil or water to quench it?

I have been stopping after each half pass and straightening it. I figure that once I'm done with the welding I can fine tune it with a press before heat treating.
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Old 07-21-2008, 03:55 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Would it be better to use oil or water to quench it?
OIL, as it will add the carbon atom back to the metal. Water will only make it brittle
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Old 07-25-2008, 11:45 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Made a little progress the last few days.

I pulled the old 44 front out a few days ago and got a good measurement of the spring perch ctc. Poor old truck looks naked without something under there.



Cut the old spring perch off and moved it towards the pass. side about 1.5" or so. The new ctc of the perches is 28 1/4".



Today I decided to modify the dr. side perch so that it doesnt use u-bolts, or long bolts and a plate below the axle. I fabbed up some supports out of 3/8" angle to go on each side of the perch and capture a nut below them.

Started with a big chunk of 3/8" angle and a pattern.

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Old 07-25-2008, 11:52 PM   #48 (permalink)
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After a lot of work on the bandsaw, grinder, and drill press..



After mocking them up I decided to cut the ends down to match the profile of the perch. It looks a lot cleaner this way.



Tacked in place and ready to weld..





Welded up and ready to be finished on top



Top finished

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Old 07-25-2008, 11:57 PM   #49 (permalink)
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I'll make the upper spring plates and get this bolted in the truck tomorrow hopefully. Then I'll be able to see exactly what I need to do about brake lines, steering and shocks.. this bitch isnt going to want to turn with those 36's
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Old 07-26-2008, 12:18 AM   #50 (permalink)
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nice work...cool truck
for carburizing the oil is better,but almond or walnut shells are better than oil..
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